Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Graze

  1. Mal nothing at the moment Since I was 20 I have been lucky enough to have an MGA, MGB, MGBGT, TR6, TR4 so probably all the old british sports cars I need I have an F Type R now as a daily and a V12 Vantage S for giggles - both much more comfortable, but I must say the TR4 as it finished up with all the mods was a lot of fun at almost legal speeds - although it ended up costing me as much to build & repair over the years as the F Type (2nd hand) did to buy Graeme
  2. its been a while since I've been on here and having sold my TR6 2 years ago I have just sold my TR4 and am now without a Triumph for the first time in many years. As you can see the TR4 wasnt original but its a great car & gone to a new owner who will get lots of enjoyment from it I'd like to thank the forum community for all the help they have given me over the years & all the enjoymentI've had from these great little cars best wishes to you all Graeme
  3. Graze


    So having rebuilt my TR4 (mostly Racestorations supplied parts) into a high out put fast road motor I was having all sorts of problems getting the car to run when warm. It was generating so much heat under the bonnet that fuel was vaporising in the fuel lines ( they were measured at 92deg C) as well as in the webers. wrapping the extractors, sheathing the fuel lines, installing two layers of heat shield between the webers and the extractors and directing cold air to the trumpets and to the air space between the heat shields ( plus upgraded electronic ignition, rebuilt distributor)
  4. I just want to double check recommended oil grades for my TR4 engine was re built 2years ago & I have been using Penrite 10W-50 extra zinc full mineral which I think is correct just had the gearbox & J type overdrive re furbished - believe EP 90 GL4 is the correct oil but some people use the same as the engine as I understand - is the Penrite ok? and for the diff - not been re built but still performing ok - what should i use? and want to re-do the uprated lever arm dampers - what is the best oil grade for them? any advice wou
  5. Many thanks gents - as always helpful suggestions from the forum yes Stuart is correct it is the actual latch / lock mounted on the end of the door not the barrel key lock that I need - these are sadly no longer available from the usual suspects Roger - I will try the other suppliers you mention - thanks Graeme
  6. Hi,, A plea to anyone who may be able to furnish me with a used (as I believe new are no longer available) door lock for drivers door on my 75 TR6 the original one has broken & locked the door shut - now managed to get it open (not easy) I cannot buy a lock from Rimmer/ Moss etc as they no longer supply them does anyone have a spare I could purchase many thanks in advance Graeme
  7. Steve photos would definitely assist thanks Tom I tried to unlock it via the lever attached to the external key lock but cant seem to get it to work. It may be worth more attention though as a possible solution thanks guys Graeme
  8. Closed the door the other day & it has locked itself shut the outside handle which pushes against the lever is not working as the lever is moving freely inside the door - appears to be broken & disconnected form the latch. the inside handle is working and when pulled back appears to depress the lever into the latch but to no effect I cant fully remove the door trim panel as the bottom corner is held in place by the B pillar diagonal brace but I can gain access to the dor cavity does anyone have any suggestions on how to free the latch?
  9. thanks guys will check out the switch (but it is only 1 year old and was working perfectly), will also take tunnel off & drive it to see if anything is visible yes Mal relay fitted Graeme
  10. Update have removed gearbox tunnel cover & checked all connections, have ensured no chance of screws from gear l;ever surround are touching gearbox, angle drive (which was added prior to issue arising) is clear of any contact with chassis etc Ive tried to eliminate a number of potential electrical issues & checked all connections and dont think it is a short circuit is there anything in the gearbox/overdrive that would be affected by oil with extra zinc additive in it as the 20W-50 is extra zinc I'm at a bit of a loss as I think if its not electrical it must be as a re
  11. Steve, Ian Thanks for the replies Took it on another Sunday drive today Overdrive worked perfectly on flat motorway but on back roads which of course are bumpy was again intermittent Leads me to electrical connections as my next check Hopefully without needing to pull the tunnel Etc out Many thanks Graeme
  12. My J type overdrive started intermittently phasing in & out on the last spirited drive followed me discovering that the gearbox was low on oil in the absence of anything else I had topped it up with full mineral 20W-60 (not sure what had been in there previously) prior to the long (300km) drive It started on RH corners then was doing it regularly in all circumstances I thought it may be oil related so today emptied the gearbox & re filled with Penrite 80W-90 Gear Oil (which Penrite recommend) doesnt seem to have made any real difference - when not under load it hold
  13. I have a spare reasonable condition Tr4 one if you are interested (not sure if you have a TR4 or 4A Graeme
  14. ive got semi slick tyres - 205/50/15 on front & 225/50/15 on rear of my TR4 they work well, although a little small on overall diameter on rear make gearing a bit shorter Graze
  15. Stuart photo now attached to previous post cooking dinner got in the way entirely possible its a volvo unit - purchased from the US Graeme
  16. Interestingly Alan its a J type and has a bracket botled to the chassis which sits across under the back of the o'drive with a rubber mount and an L shaped bracket which is bolted to the back of the overdrive cover - all as its meant to be I'm sure Also my cover has two bolt holes on the underside too -- but not used due to the bracket Graze
  17. Well that is a good question? shortage of TR experts still alive here thats the way I got it back from the guy who refurbed it & i didnt know any better seems to work ok - is there any long term consequence requiring me to pull it all apart & re install (or do I just leave it till next time I need to pull it out?) Graeme
  18. thanks again Roger should be able to sort it from there Graeme
  19. Roger thanks for the advice & link to buckeye removed, stripped, switch threads tapped into the cover - will have O'drive on 2nd, 3rd, 4th cover painted & ready to re-install It was a relatively easy job & I had lots of help from someone who knew what they were doing next challenge will be the wiring to the switches I know that i need to wire the two switches to each other & to ground off one side, then the column switch has two wires - yellow/ green to switches & then to solenoid?, where do I wre the other one to get the power? where do i take t
  20. Thanks Michael/Roger Seems my 3rd/4th selector fork on the replacement is badly worn so I will need to pull the current one off the car and hopefully it will be in better shape and can be re-used Graeme
  21. I need some advice I have to change the gearbox top cover on my newly fitted overdrive gearbox. Seems the original selector top cover from my gearbox had the switch location in the wrong spot (on the RH side opposite the reverse lights switch) meaning I had the luxury of overdrive on all 5 gears (reverse too if I had been silly enough to try it) So never having pulled one of these off before is there any special tricks to removing the selector & forks & fitting the new one? Its being done in the car just to make it interesting! all help appreciated Graeme
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.