karnevil
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Posts posted by karnevil
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Mine counts the miles when feels like it. Then it stops for a while & then starts again. The speedo still works though. Could this be the same problem?
Andy
It's worth a look for how long it takes.
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That looks pretty well like the one I have sunroof and the side windows look identical,Wow that advert sure looks dated!
I'm pretty sure that the mounting is with J bolts.
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Does the trip meter count the miles but just won't reset?
If yes then that's how mine felt.
This could well fix it for you.For an sae i can post you a circlip.If you don't have or cannot borrow circlip pliers post the cable and housing I will fit and post back.or if close pay me a visit or vice versa.
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182 miles today says this fix works.
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Thanks.
Maybe I could get this posted in the technical fixes section...........
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Turned my mind to sorting the Odometer out today.
It seems the cables are no longer available unless used.
I was expecting the drive prongs to be broken or the "T" piece damaged or worst case the actual tumblers gone west.
However once the clocks were stripped out it became apparent that the cable just wasn't holding in anymore,probably due to the moulded outer flange being broke.
I was going to just glue it in place but then I gave it some more thought and tried a circlip,as shown in the pics.
It seems to work well so decided to post here and share my fix.
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Just won one on Ebay.£205.00 bid with 23 seconds to go!
Now any fitting tips please?
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Thanks TR Mitch.
Kermit does seem to stand out.I was filmed on the A55 by a passing car on Sunday!.
I'm pretty sure it has the correct tyres fitted 185/70 13 but I will double check,getting use to it,the GIT comes as a surprise now!
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Sounds good,I can put mine at the back,doubt its up to show standard!Try this event for a bunch of TR7's not far away from you at Tatton Park
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At the moment I cannot see any reason why not.After all getting oot and aboot is partly what I wanted it for.........
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What's the IWE ?
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The floor etc all looked/felt pretty solid.There is a recipt in the history for a new tank.
Cracking looking car!
Just check the floor panel behind the seats where the rear swinging arms mount and have a look at the petrol tank as well.
Cheers
Ian
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No the GIT will be staying.....it's getting throttle bodies.The TR is for high days and holidays etc.
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I have a TR7,38 years after seeing my first in a showroom window.
I think it has been a club car at some stage.
Please don't tell me it has an awfull secret.It scored 180 points,I refused to give any "Excellents" unless the item was new or could only ever be an opinion.
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It is very possible to get the steering feeling a whole lot lighter - on a late car (or any for that matter) first thing is to make sure tha top swivels on the struts are serviced properly.
Generally speaking nobody has been anywhere near the struts for years but if you can get them out and stripped down and clean all of the bearing surfaces and re grease - a modification is available from the normal suppliers like Robsport or S&S where you add either a ford focus / sierra top bearing or a roller type bearing will also help no end.
As for the wheels - many of the MGF wheels fit without modification and have the correct PCD (also bigger wheel size which will give you a better choice of tyres). Also you will see a fair few "wedges" on revolution wheels or Minilights as well.
Cheers
Ian
Ian,I guess I pretty soon got used to the heavier steering,just took me back to my first cars,I just cannot imagine any of the new generation drivers getting on with it!They want it all done for them.
A refurb/service on the strut tops would probably be a good thing to do tho' in any event,even If I made my own roller top mounts!
By trade I am a Turner/Miller so I am able to custom make parts and/or refurb existing ones.I did a pretty nifty brake conversion on my Satria GTI (Ready for the quad throttle bodies) of 3000GT/GTO fourpot calipers and discs picked up off Ebay for 99p!I have also made,for others PCD altering hub-centric spacers and even re-PCD'd wheels.
As far as the wheels are concered I think I would want to keep them as original as I could,but it is always nice to know what alternatives there are available and MGF/TF wheels seem pretty plentiful and reasonably priced on Ebay!I've also seen that some people have also fitted MGF/TF seats.
If the front sidelights worked OK once you had "prodded" them, then I would suspect a poor earth - each front sidelight/indicator unit gas an earth wire. In fact most electrical problems with a TR7 can be traced back to a poor earths! If/when you get your 7, one of the first things I would suggest you do is clean all the earths & the contacts/pins in the Ripaults connectors.
The front sidelight units also suffer from water ingress which corrodes the bulb holders. Unless badly corroded, a clean up & a new lens gasket will help. You can also carefully dismantle the headlight switch, the contacts inside can get corroded but can be cleaned - just make a note of how it all came apart
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Anthony,poor earth or a dodgy switch is what I was hoping for.There were no visible signs of water ingress to any of the lights apart from the number plate lamps,which I guess would not break the bank to replace.
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AnthonyF,thanks for that.
The lights did work like that(in a fashion)the side lights just needed to be prodded I think to remind them what to do!Once the pods were lowered the sides stayed on fine,so it could be should i choose this car,a new switch would be required?
As for the wheels it is an '82 reg (81 model year then I guess) so it is entirely possible it left the factory/dealer with the alloys,it has the alloy as a spare too.
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Yeah we did none of my first cars had it,Marina,Escort,Mini even an SD1 2300!
I bet most drivers under tha age of about 35 would have a fit driving an older car now!
Very easily...
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Well yesterday saw my first viewing.
Went very well I thought,nice car.Not everyones choice of colour I would say but definatley of its time and set the trim colour of it off very nicely.
The car seemed nice and solid with just a few silly niggles,which should only take a few hours to sort along with a few quid.
The sidelights required the headlights to be raised and on before they came on.Could that be an earth problem or maybe a relay?
What a blast from the past
.First thing that struck me was how much more solid it felt than modern cars,The panels dont flex at a touch of the finger!
How on earth did we all cope without power steering?I can remember when if changing from a non power to a power car then the warning was "Carefull this has power steeing.........it can take you by surprise!"
What was the default production setting as to the wheels fitted?I thought the std was steel with the plastic caps with the option being the alloys was this the case?
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Well the pic in my sig ain't Scotch mist!
Yes.., it's so difficult.....decisions.
Did you mention a P...P...Pr.. Proton... ?
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LOL.
No I understand fully what you are saying.
It's just that I personally would prefer to have a genuine TR8 if I could rather than a converted one.So I am gonna look for a nice 2.0A lot of people in the Proton owners club have put the EVO 1/2/3 turbo engine in their GTI's which i am not keen on.I am currently sticking with the std engine but adding throttle bodies with twin injectors,to my mind its more in keeping with where the car started.
A steering wheel,Poly bushes,Airfreshner etc does not funamentaly alter the "Spirit" or "Soul" of the car,the essence if you like.
As you say it's all down to opinions and none are more correct,or more wrong than the next!
Here is a dilemma for you that I have(Not withstanding I have not purchased a car yet) But aesthetically I prefer the mat black rear panel of the early cars but would I be messing up/spoiling/"bastardising" the one I eventually buy If I painted the panel black?
What constitutes bastardised? If it wasn't fitted at the factory then (like a V8 engine into a 2 litre car) where does it stop ?
No sporty steering wheel ? No poly bushes? No air freshener? No matter how well the air freshener was fitted?
Just my humble opinion.
Jo (lots of bastardisation )
Taxi..... -
The weather stopped me viewing the two posted above.
A V8 came up on Pistonheads and while it looks very nice as said on here a V8 is not a TR8 ! I would prefer something genuine and not "bastardised" however well the conversion is done.
One has come up on TRYoof ,a 2.0 Litre,which looks promising. -
I'm officially a TR Register member now after receiving my membership pack yesterday.
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Good luck: hope one meets your needs and brings you fun ( expect blood, sweat and tears occasionally).
Are you looking for a 2.0 or a V8?
Jo
Hi Andy
Hope you find the forum as useful and the car as enjoyable and interesting as I have since I joined at the start of last year.
Best wishes
Al
Good luck with the viewing - hope one meets expectations / requirements!
Cheers
Ian
These are the two I am hoping to go and see next week.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C365150
and
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C364671
I have had some extra pics of the green on emailed to me by the vendor.The red one looks cleaner under the bonnet but neither look rusty.I have the TR7 buyer guide book with the score system to guide me.
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Well the two I have ear-marked are 2L ones.A V8 would have to be dome by me a FHC with tarmac arches and decent going and stopping bits!
I would dearly love to restore/rebuild,hybrid one myself but I am stuck for garage space although I could do all the welding machining etc myself at my work.
Good luck: hope one meets your needs and brings you fun ( expect blood, sweat and tears occasionally).
Are you looking for a 2.0 or a V8?
Jo
TR7 Cooling System.
in TR7/8 Forum
Posted
Does anyone have the lowdown on how the TR7 system is designed to operate.
I don't have a problem with mine I'm just curious after changing all the hoses as a precaution and finding the supplied thermostat was different.
I'm trying to figure out what the function of the disc and spring on the bottom is.
It looks to me as if it closes off the inlet from the pump housing as the thermostat opens to allow the water flow back to the rad.
All I can come up with is this.
With the car running and water in the cold state the thermostat shut and pump rotating the port in the bottom of the thetmostat housing coming from the pump is open(or at least a wider gap)and the water not flowing.As the water warms to 82 degree the thermostat opens allowing water to flow back to the rad the disc at the bottom of the thermostat closing the inlet gap introducing a back pressure for the pump to help move the water round the system.
Or what is the real answer.