Bodiam
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Posts posted by Bodiam
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"Hah! You think that! You are not fond of living. Three of the last four second hand vehicles that I have purchased with a fresh MoT have been seriously and significantly UNroadworthy requiring immediate replacement of parts before use on the road. So I think you have to be paranoid about checking other peoples work and not relying on it. Same I guess in many fields of work.
The MoT is a very limited visual inspection without removal of wheels etc so it is not actually the testers fault.
Check for yourself or drive your coffin at your peril."
Hi, Saggy,
I wasn't suggesting that the MOT was a de facto guarantee of roadworthiness, just that without one your insurance company has something else to beat you with should you be unfortunate enough to have an accident.
My neck is very precious to me and I will continue to maintain the car in a safe condition, of course, with the MOT as a double check, at a testing station with whom I have a long standing and trusting relationship.
John
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How so, Roger?
I appreciate we can all respond individually, but surely a group response ought to carry more weight?
John
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Well spotted, Mick.
Whatever is finally implemented, I will continue to present my car for an MOT, in the interest of being able to prove to my insurance company that the vehicle is being maintained in a roadworthy condition - we all know how keen insurers can be to jump through loopholes!
Originality could be a problem for some owners, I imagine, so it will be of importance that the definition is not too onerous.
I guess the Register will be gathering the views of the membership before responding to the consultation?
John
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I see there are 4 steel wheels for sale in the Buy, Sell, Trade section of the forum - might be of interest?
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/0721/SET-OF-4NO-TR6-STEEL-WHEEL-RIMS
John
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Hi, Chris,
I recently changed from 195/65's to 165/80's and so far am very happy with the much improved ride, lighter steering at low speeds and a better feel of my connection with the road.
I don't know how to give you the link, but my earlier post entitled "Tyres and wheels" started in May this year would give you the thought process I went through before making my decision.
John
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Hi, Paul,
Welcome to the forum.
If you complete DVLA form V888 (available online) with £5 fee, you can get details of most or all previous UK owners and notifiable modifications done in the past. Don't know if this would include its history in Ireland, but probably worth a try.
DVLA ask for your reason for asking for the information and seem happy with something like "I am researching the previous history of my historic vehicle to check its authenticity".
Good luck with your new car.
John
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Get the Phoenix cross box exhaust. It's a big bore with the cross box which looks original.
It will fit the original manifold with a kit
It's a lot quieter than the one you have but still sounds fantastic when you give it some ( a little louder than an original though)
You can buy direct from Phoenix or moss.
Steve
I have the system which Steve describes and I agree that it is quite a bit rortier than the standard system, but much less wearing on a run than the sports exhaust which I took off, in my opinion.
When I asked the tester what he thought of the exhaust note when I took it in for its last MOT, he said "it sounds like a TR6 should!"
Before you spend any money, maybe some of your local group have a selection of different systems which you could listen to?
John
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Hi, Steve,
A bit busy for the next couple of days, but will take some pics at the weekend for you. If you'd like to PM me your email address, I'll send them over.
John
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Hi, Wellsy,
No experience of the Classics, but so far well pleased with the T Trac 2's - good ride and connection with the road. Early days for me, so only time will tell if my choice is a good one in the long run, but the price was cheap in my view, so not much of a gamble really.
John
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I don't believe so, GK69, they were not fitted until CR series in 1972/3.
Lot of people have fitted them to CP's, though - I think they look a bit bare at the front without them.
John
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Hi, Keith,
Whereabouts are you?
Could be your best bet would be to have a look at another car in your district - easier to see things than to describe them.
Good luck with your resto.
John
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To bring my topic to a conclusion - I decided to fit 165/80 R15 87T Vredestein T Trac 2 Tubeless tyres, from Click on Tyres of Shipley (having first obtained approval for the lower speed rating from TRRI). A small local tyre shop fitted them at a very modest cost and were happy to confirm that the "safety ledge" wheels fitted as standard to my car were perfectly appropriate for use with tubeless tyres.
At £39 each, plus £12.95 total carriage, I reckon they were a bargain (no connection with the supplier, just a satisfied customer!)
Early days yet, but the steering is much lighter at low speeds, the ride is much softer and cornering feels much more predictable. No doubt the more pliable rubber on each corner accounts for much of the improvement, but I do feel that the car now handles more like its designers intended with the standard size tyres fitted.
Many thanks to all who advised me along the way.
All the best,
John
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Kerry,
If my experience of Previous Owners is anything to go by, that won't be the strangest thing you will find!
John
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Nick,
Judging by the heater flap, your car appears to be a CP series, which should normally have only single balance tubes on the throttle bodies, as I understand it. Seems very odd that someone would fit CR throttle bodies, with that awful throttle linkage.
DD very good choice for anything associated with distributors - Martin was very helpful to me when my car was running like a bag of nails, he found that, although my engine had been changed for a CP, the dissy was still a CR, so the centrifugal advance was way out.
John
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Hi, Nick,
I think you will find the 4 balance pipes identify a CR PI system.
I too have a CP block with heaven knows what head and CR throttle bodies. I raised the same question as you on the forum some time ago. The general consensus at the time was that the gain from changing to CP throttle bodies was unlikely to be noticeable for normal road use (I believe the shape of the ports is different, circular on a CP and squarish on a CR).
As regards changing to carbs, I guess they may be easier to balance and maintain but the PI models seem more desirable and so your resale value may suffer. Having said that, once a PI is well set up, it seems to stay that way so worth putting in the effort.
Good luck with your new car, lots of help on here as I have found!
John
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Hi, Rob,
That jig looks a fine piece of work - I do hope someone comes along to make use of it, would be a great shame to cut it up.
Have you considered offering it in the Buy, Sell, Trade part of the forum?
Good luck with the rest of your restoration,
John
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Hi, Pink,
I've just replaced the other knobs with a set from The Roadster Factory in the US and the moulded knob on the choke (from Paddocks) matches well in shape and design.
For what it's worth, the knobs from TRF were of a high quality and fitted straight out of the packet, no fiddling about which I have seen complained about from other suppliers. Even allowing for shipping from the States, still cheaper than purchasing from the usual suspects over here, so what's not to like? (No connection, btw)
John
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Hi, Pink,
The knob on these choke cables is not separate, it is moulded on to the shaft (or not, as the case may be!)
John
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Hi, Peter,
I too had this problem twice - in the end, I glued the knob on using a thick type of superglue, but I don't recall the make. Before doing this, I obtained an agreement from the supplier that they would still offer a replacement if this was unsuccessful. So far, it has lasted for about 6 months.
I guess this lets the supplier off the hook somewhat, but it is a pain to keep removing and refitting these cables, so a bit of pragmatism goes a long way!
If you fancy giving it a try, let me know and I'll try to find out what sort of glue I used (another TRR member let me have some).
Good luck,
John
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If you are lucky, something like this might do the trick more cheaply than a replacement alternator -
(I'm guessing you have a Lucas 18 ACR alternator at the moment)
John
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Richard,
I guess this is not an answer you would find helpful, having spent money with Speedy Cables, but maybe the CR cable, with the shorter fast idle wire, would fit your set up better? The inner cable is secured to the linkage using one of those bike cable type fittings, they are shown in the Moss and Rimmer catalogues.
FWIW, the length of the fast idle wire on the CP cable is 41.5" and on the CR 34.25".
Maybe you could come to an arrangement with Peter, who needs a CP cable, then get a CR for yourself (apologies if you think this a stupid suggestion!)
Kind regards,
John
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Hi, Peter,
I have the same setup and needed to fit a CP choke cable in order to get enough length to reach the throttle linkage to get fast idle when on choke - the CR cable is too short.
As regards which one of the current crop is best, I'm not really up to date to offer any advice, except to say that if you are recommended one on which the twist lock works correctly and the knob doesn't pull off the third time you use it, you're doing well and should pass on the good news!
Good luck,
John
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How ingenious!
Thanks for posting, John.
John
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Hi, Dave,
I too suffered with that awful CR throttle linkage and wasted many hours of my life trying to get the best out of it.
In the end, I gave up and fitted an underslung linkage from Prestige (other types are available!) and now have the facility to adjust each of the pairs of butterflies individually, which made life a lot easier and got rid of the light throttle unevenness.
Good luck!
John
This maybe worrying
in General TR Technical
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