[TR7 weighted front bumper]

The front bumper O/S & N/S corner covers are drooping which are weighted,  l can lift the covers so they are straight to the body see any obvious fixing to support weights to the body,  I'm missing some weight support fixing. The main centre section seems in good straight condition. What is the purpose of the weights and are they necessary or can the bumper be fitted without them. 

Regards

Andy

 

[No power to head lamps]

Thanks to all for input. Bit of back ground information, l acquired the car as a winter project as l did not have any winter jobs on my 4A. The car had a complete body off rebuild in the 90's, it rust free, engine rebuild. I have photo and loads of receipts to back this up. Around 2000 the fuse board was change from the glass to blade type by a classic car restorer in Glasgow, but unfortunate l do not have diagrams to go with this. I have email the restore in hope that they have information on file.The car was off the road and dry stored for about 10 years, this may back up the the corroded contact suggestion.

It had factory fitted air con which has been removed (have all the parts, from the Vin number it looks like it was destined for the Japan,s market but never left the UK.

I will check and clean over the next couple days. Fingers X

Andy 

[No power to head lamps]

Today the problem is different were as yesterday l could get the head lamps to go up and down using the flasher wit blubs working. I always disconnect the battery over night, on connecting the battery today l can't get the head lamps operate, the side lights are ok. I have noticed that when l pull the flasher stalk there is a flicker on the dash panel which might indicate an earth problem. The electrics have been upgraded, new blade type fuse board and same changes to the wiring, as l do have a diagram of the new set up it makes checking for faults difficult.

As l have removed and refitted the instrument cluster could this be a problem.

 

 

[No power to head lamps]

After solving a fuel gauge problem with the help of the forum and before replacing the dash cover , l have check the electrics, all switches and lights are working apart from the head lamps. The side come on via the main light switch and the heads lamps go up and down when using the flasher stalk. I have replaced the main light switch, any advice on were to go next?

Andy   

[Voltage stabiliser]

The earth connection to the tank sender is good,  having drained several gallons of petrol from the tank l have also replaced the sender unit and filled with a couple gallons.  With the ignition on the low fuel warning light comes on after a few seconds but no movement on the fuel gauge which would suggest the gauge is faulty. As the gauge is longer available does anyone know if they can be repaired. Hope this is the end of this saga.

Many thanks to all the forum members.

Andy 

[Voltage stabiliser]

Hi RobH

Test the delay unit, it works as suggested, so next stage replace the tank sender.

Thanks to the forum for all the help.

Andy

[Voltage stabiliser]

Thanks to all for your input, no luck so far. I have been given the impression that you can not check the delay unit but l would assume that if you put a 12v supply in you should be able to get output from the other terminals, the circuit diagram seems to show 3 connections on the delay unit, l have 4 terminals marked as T,L,E,B

Green/pink wire to T, Green/red  to  L , Twin black to E, Twin green to B. I believe that black = earth, green = 12v input, so if l put 12v to green l should get a reading on either terminal T or L

You can probably tell that electrics are not my strong point.  

 

 

[Voltage stabiliser]

Continuing saga of the fuel gauge. The 7 is a new acquisition with lots of history, rust free body all mechanics good. l know the fuel gauge wasn't working. Having try all  the suggestions from members and some from Robsports. Looking at the instrument pod l can see that it has been played with so l am now going to do some bench testing, l assume that l can check that gauges and light using a 12v supply. Watch the space.

Andy 

[TR7's and rust]

Several years ago l passing a workshop industrial estate, the mechanics were having trouble with Stag heads, their solution was to loosen all the stud nuts start the engine and stand back after a few seconds both heads pop up. Not being a Stag owner l should think this an approved method.

[Voltage stabiliser]

2 hours ago, 71tr6 said:

Merlin motorsport list this delays switch for £11.60. HTH

Hi, There is some confusion regarding this unit, its not a voltage stabiliser its a warning light relay (UKC7096) although it looks the same but the connections are different. The unit on Merlins site is a voltage stabiliser.

Thanks for your input.

Andy  

[Voltage stabiliser]

RobH - Nether the low fuel warning lamp or gauge are working, all the panel bulbs are OK.  I remove the Green/orange lead tomorrow.

Thnaks for your input

Andy

[Voltage stabiliser]

Hi Peterh

Thanks for your efforts. Every search shows that UKC7096 is no longer available in the UK, l will contact Revingtons in the morning just in case otherwise the USA is the only solution.

I had my Marcos in the seventies. it was the 1967 Motor Show car, reg # LAM 100F, a recent search shows it burn out no longer around.

Regards 

[Voltage stabiliser]

Thanks to all for your input, after much googling have confirmed it is a relay not a voltage stabiliser  UKC7096. Looks like their only available from the US for about £50.00.

Regards

Andy

[Voltage stabiliser]

Thanks for all replies.  Not sure if this helps. The fuel gauge is not working and l thought l would start at the gauge before checking the tank unit. The voltage stabiliser is a Smiths BDS 1004/00 mounted under the top dash cover above the instrument pod with 4 wire connections from the wiring loom: Green red terminal I, Green pink terminal L, green paired terminal B. Black paired terminal E. As Peter mentioned it could be a low fuel delay unit and hard to find. Can anyone suggest the next move.

Andy

[Voltage stabiliser]

I'm trying to replace the voltage stabiliser on a 7, the original has 4 seperate terminals marked T,I,E & B, l can note find a replacement. Most other Triumph use a stabiliser with 2 terminal pairs marked I & B. Has any one come across this problem and has a solution.

Andy

[TR7 Vin #]

As a TR4A owner l need the help of the TR7 forum. I recently acquired a 1981 TR7 2.0, 5 speed with air conditioning (although now removed l have all the parts). I have the rebuild history starting in 1990 and invoices and photos to back this up. l'm trying to build up the history prior to 1990.  The Heritage certificate shows a build date of 1980 with a Vin number with a J which as far as l can tell means the car was for the Japanese market, but l have no record of the car leaving the UK.  Any help appreciated.

[Graham (Overdrive not engaging)]

Hi Graham

I had this problem some time ago, the O/D suddenly stop working. l trailed through the forum for advice after trying several checks including including taking the gear box tunnel out to check the solenoid and wiring etc someone suggested checking the 2 bullet connector located near the main beam switch, bingo one side had come apart, l must have dislodge it with my shoe, reconnecting solved the problem l wish l had seen this feed earlier.

Worth a check. Andy 

[Big, Little or No Problem ?]

"K Seal" l can only talk from experience. I have had my TR4A for 6 years and came with the water residue problem, it never caused any problems just annoying. I had the engine rebult last year and there where no problems found on the head, after running the engine in for 250 miles the head was re torqued but the water residue was still there. It was rebuild engineers who told me about the weak point push rod tubes/plug and suggested the "K Seal".

 

A year on no problems or water residue, engine performs as new.

Andy

[Big, Little or No Problem ?]

Hi Tim

I had a similar problem getting water laying by the number 4 push rod tubes. l checked with an engine specialist who told me that 4A head had a weak point around the push rod tubes and put "K Seal" in the radiator, problem solved.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Andy

[4A Tyre recommendations]

Thank you to all for the advice on tyre and supplier recommendations. Vredestiens have just arrived via Camskill. Looking forward to the first trip on the new boots.

Regards. Andy

[4A Tyre recommendations]

Need to reboot the old girl for the new season, currently running on 165/80x15. I have been offered a good price on Continental CT22. Has any one had experience of these or any other recommendations welcome. Cars only used for normal road runs, no rallying or racing.

Thanks.

[4A Side lights]

Hi Roger

It pays to check the obvious, l replace the light switch sometime ago, it look like the switch is faulty, with a bit of wiggling the sidelights will flash, need to check the connections. These pattern switches are not up to much.

Andy

[4A Side lights]

A thanks for your input, l have check and there 3 red wires are connect together not in either blue/red or blue white. Help!

Andy

[4A Side lights]

Just noticed that with the light switch in the first position my side lights do not come on (the rear lights do), the side lights only come on with the head lights (not sure how long it has been like this). The wiring looks correct to the diagram in the workshop manual. Suggestion please.

[Window screen chrome trim]

Just had a new window screen fitted with a new screen rubber and chrome trim. The fitter had a problem getting the new chrome trim to sit properly in the grove, it keeps lifting in parts. He suggested that it might settle down after a few hours and grip the trim. Tried pushing the trim down after two days, no luck still pops up in parts. The profile of the old and new trim look the same. Any advice welcome.