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Alfie14

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Everything posted by Alfie14

  1. Just happen to walk into the room while my wife was engrossed in last nights episode of East Enders when a very smart dark blue TR4A arrived on the set. Anybody prepared to own up to a drive on part!
  2. Thanks to all for the input, after a delay in playing with the 7 the brake bleeding problem solved. After talking to Steve of S&S Preparations fix was easy, in a previous rebuild the front calipers had been fitted wrong way round ( right left, left right) so thew bleed nipples were on the bottom, change over, bleed nipples top and the aid of a pressurised bleed system the problem solved. Cheers.
  3. Continuing saga of my TR7 brakes. l decided to rebuild the brake master cylinder, l remove the main pistons, clean the bore and re-sealed, the only problem l have, l can't remove the warning light valve to replace the O rings. As far as l can work out this only works the warning light so would it affect the brake operation if not re-seal. Regards Andy
  4. I am trying to bleed the brakes on a 1980 TR7 following the workshop manual, starting with the front N/S, Front O/S, rear N/S, fluid is flowing through the pipes. After bleeding a l get some pedal pressure but with the engine running no pedal pressure. My thinking is the master cylinder seals are not holding up under pressure but would welcome any advice before looking at replacing the master cylinder seals. Andy
  5. Having check through previous suggestions l am coming to the conclusion that the master cylinder is the problem. If l bleed starting with the N/S front, fluid passes with no air bubbles and l get some brake pedal pressure, with engine running the pedal just goes straight to the floor, no pedal pressure, just want to get the advice of 7 community before removing the master cylinder. Regards Andy
  6. Thanks for all suggestions. l will work my through all and let all know the out come.
  7. Thanks for all the input. I tried bleeding with engine running, made no difference, pressure with the engine off, no pressure with the engine running, could the be a problem with the master cylinder? Any other suggestion welcome. Andy
  8. Hi Jerry Thanks for your suggestion. Brakes were working, l decide to bleed the brakes prior to a MOT. I will try with the engine running and let you know the results. Andy
  9. I am having problems bleeding the brakes, l have followed the recommended procedure, starting with the front N/S followed by front O/S and rear N/S. l get pedal pressure without the engine running but with the engine On no pressure. Help! Andy
  10. Having following all the advice without any success l decided checking the wiring from the indicator/ flasher switch, the first finding was the loom was covered in blue insulating tape, with the switch removed and tape removed l found a if'y repair on the earth wire, l strip the switch cleaned all the contacts, replace the wire refitted, switch On main light switch, lights pop up, dip and main beam worked. called it a day. This morning tried the lights without changing any thing, no pop up but lights still illuminating. i'm l right in thinking the switch is causing the problem. Regar
  11. Hi Mike Take note of your warning and l also smile at your expense, l'm still working my way through all the advise gratefully received from the forum. Regards
  12. Hi Mike Take note of your warning and l also smile at your expense, l'm still working my way through all the advise gratefully received from the forum. Regards
  13. Hi Howard I have the same Pektron as your picture, Connecting 12v to the blue/purple wire the lights pop up and down continuously. I swap 2 of relays over which resulted in the ignition being permanently on which would suggest l have a faulty relay. Although l can hear the relays clicking when l apply 12v, unfortunately my meter is on the blink so l can't check the output. Thanks again for all your help. Regards
  14. Hi Howard The flasher stalk as no affect on the lights with the master switch On or Off. If l disconnect the power at the battery and wind the headlights to the up position reconnect the power both lamps immediately go down. Fortunately or unfortunately the fuse box has been change to a modern blade type, at least it makes getting to all the relays easier. I have ordered a new relay. All the relays on mine are of the same type. The Pekton unit is different to the Robsport picture, it has a plug and socket fitting. l let you know how l get on once the new replay arrives. Rega
  15. In one word No, but there is power to the flasher contact. Regards
  16. Hi Howard, thank you for your advice, l have check earthing points and so far can't find a problem but will keep working way through all connections. As l mentioned l can raise the lamp pods manually with the battery disconnected and they retract when the battery is connected, but if l try and raise them with battery connected there resistance and the up knob will not move. Thanks to Stuart for the warning.
  17. In trying to solve the head lamps not popping up with the main light switch On l have found the following: 1.If l manually raise them With battery disconnected, when battery is connected they go down 2. If l put power to the side flasher connectors under the bonnet, the lamps pop up and down The head lamps light up on dip and main beam when down, all the relays seem to be OK. HELP
  18. Hi Mike thanks for your input. The convertibles bumper has flexible mountings so l wondering if they are meant to move, hopefully someone will know the answer. Andy
  19. The front bumper O/S & N/S corner covers are drooping which are weighted, l can lift the covers so they are straight to the body see any obvious fixing to support weights to the body, I'm missing some weight support fixing. The main centre section seems in good straight condition. What is the purpose of the weights and are they necessary or can the bumper be fitted without them. Regards Andy
  20. Thanks to all for input. Bit of back ground information, l acquired the car as a winter project as l did not have any winter jobs on my 4A. The car had a complete body off rebuild in the 90's, it rust free, engine rebuild. I have photo and loads of receipts to back this up. Around 2000 the fuse board was change from the glass to blade type by a classic car restorer in Glasgow, but unfortunate l do not have diagrams to go with this. I have email the restore in hope that they have information on file.The car was off the road and dry stored for about 10 years, this may back up the the corroded co
  21. Today the problem is different were as yesterday l could get the head lamps to go up and down using the flasher wit blubs working. I always disconnect the battery over night, on connecting the battery today l can't get the head lamps operate, the side lights are ok. I have noticed that when l pull the flasher stalk there is a flicker on the dash panel which might indicate an earth problem. The electrics have been upgraded, new blade type fuse board and same changes to the wiring, as l do have a diagram of the new set up it makes checking for faults difficult. As l have removed and refitte
  22. After solving a fuel gauge problem with the help of the forum and before replacing the dash cover , l have check the electrics, all switches and lights are working apart from the head lamps. The side come on via the main light switch and the heads lamps go up and down when using the flasher stalk. I have replaced the main light switch, any advice on were to go next? Andy
  23. The earth connection to the tank sender is good, having drained several gallons of petrol from the tank l have also replaced the sender unit and filled with a couple gallons. With the ignition on the low fuel warning light comes on after a few seconds but no movement on the fuel gauge which would suggest the gauge is faulty. As the gauge is longer available does anyone know if they can be repaired. Hope this is the end of this saga. Many thanks to all the forum members. Andy
  24. Hi RobH Test the delay unit, it works as suggested, so next stage replace the tank sender. Thanks to the forum for all the help. Andy
  25. Thanks to all for your input, no luck so far. I have been given the impression that you can not check the delay unit but l would assume that if you put a 12v supply in you should be able to get output from the other terminals, the circuit diagram seems to show 3 connections on the delay unit, l have 4 terminals marked as T,L,E,B Green/pink wire to T, Green/red to L , Twin black to E, Twin green to B. I believe that black = earth, green = 12v input, so if l put 12v to green l should get a reading on either terminal T or L You can probably tell that electrics are not my strong point.
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