mleadbeater
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Posts posted by mleadbeater
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Jig looks good, but would'nt trust my might welding.
Mike
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Hi,
Can't open link, so will assume the fan is supplied through a relay. The relay primary, ie. the coil, will be earthed via the stat switch. All you need to do is connect another earth circuit from the relay coil with an inline switch, so either the stat or switch will provide the earth and thus turn on the fan. I also connected a dash warning light to the fan relay contact to show the fan coming on by the stat or switch. The supply the relay coil can be either via the ignition swith or an non-ignition source, the latter enabling the fan to remain with the ignition turned off.
Hope this helps.
Mike
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Hi,
if you need to adjust the sweep angle, you can move the position of the crank pin on the pinion plate, the pin can be re-brazed ( after dismantling of course) nearer or further from the centre as required to reduce/increase the stroke. You can work out the required off-set from the centre by measuring the rack stroke as is and then dividing the required increase/decrease by two to determine the amount you need to move the pin. ( hope this makes sense)
I have done this on several cars over the years, including my current TR2 rebuild.
Hope this helps
Mike
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The Securon ones I used had the feature of being able to set the mounting position by adjusting the postion of the locking mechanism, by removing the end cover of the reel unit and rotating the mechanism until the reel works in the position you require.
Do you have the instructions? I may have some somewhere if you cannot work out how to do this.
Cheers
Mike
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Dick
I used to use a suction gun years ago but now use gravity feed guns, as they are more tolerant to viscosity variations in the paint, and all the paint goes through the gun, whereas a suction gun leaves some in the bottom of the pot; not such an issue with celly as you can return it to the tin, but as I use 2 pack you have to use it all or throw it away.
The Devilbiss guns are the pro's standard, but a little expensive. I use 2 guns made by Bergen, look on Ebay, they do a mini 100 ml gun, and a 500 ml full size gun for around £25, which I woukd recomend as a good buy.
Always use a disposaable strainer when you fill the gun, and use a viscosity cup till you get used to thinning the paint. Celly is good but produces a lot of overspray, and, becuse it dries almost instantly, cannot be touched in if you miss a bit, whereas 2 pack stays wet for several minutes so you can touch in any missed bits. I use 2 pack with an air fed mask, from Machine Mart, which is great if your compressor can keep up. If you use an air fed mask, DO buy a filter which removes the airbourne oil as its very toxic to breath in oil mist.
Main down side of 2 pack is its proneness to fish-eye (silicone contamination) , but as it doesn't shrink much ( unlike celly ) , what you put on is what you end up with. I would certainly use 2 pack primer if you can, as it can be put on thickly ( hence the advantage of a gravity fed gun) and will harden right through without skinning over or shrinking.
Good luck, its a steep learning curve but suggest you look on Youtube as there will be loads of video advice.
Mike
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Just checked an old switch, 1/8 BSP x 28 tpi is very good match to the tap I have, nptf thread is 27 tpi as you state.
Mike
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Thanks for all your replies, extra footwell space is the explanation, may make a map pocket myself as otherwise not much storage space.
cheers
Mike
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Hi
I am in the process of trimming the footwells of my 55 TR2, and have noticed the nearside footwell side has a recess, approx 8" square, approx 1" deep, which I assume is for a map pocket. There are also 2 captive nuts at the front of the recess, one above the other on the inside of the recess.
I propose to glue carpet to the inside footwell sides, butting up to vinyl-covered plywood J sticks on the front door aperture edge, traping some rubber tube covered in vinyl to act as a draft-excluder. (hope ths makes sense) .
Any details or pics of the pocket would be very helpefull, do you know what the captive nuts are for?
Thanks
MIke
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If this unit has 8 fuses then you can wire one per device.
Suggest you fit a heat shield for the alternator, made one myself and can supply sketch if it would help.
Cheers
Mike
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Graeme
I fitted a modern washer bottle with electric pump as not too bothered about 'period' looks, ( plus too tight to spend so much on period version) and have replaced the wiper switch with a light switch, lucas pull type, fist pull operates wiper, second pull operates wash pumpas well, so you do not need an extra switch hole/bracket.
the switch type is as this one on ebay;
Lucas Type PPG1 Vintage Car Light Switch 51952, 3H3098Cheers
Mike
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Re electric pumps; I have also fitted a FilterKing filter/regulator, as in the past I have experienced flooding of SU carbs using an electronic pump ( on my MGA, sorry TR guys!, (now long gone)).
I also have fitted float-chamber overflow pipes ( using Kunifer brake pipe) routed to the outside of the chassis behind the front wheel.
Hopefully if the inertia switch is OK for Landrovers it should be OK for the TR, not yet having driven a TR2 I am getting a bit worried on Rod's comments on road behaviour. They work on horizontal 'impacts', so hopefully potholes will not trip it.
Easy to remove if it is a problem.
Mike
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Tom,
I am about to do the same to my TR2
you can buy a switch from ebay, e.g.
Land Rover & Range Rover Remote Fuel Pump Inertia Switch, WQT100080get one with connector and wires if possible, and connect it in series with the supply to the pump from the ignition switch, and mount vertically, I will probably fit mine to the end of the battery box.
Why an SU pump?, there are better modern electronic pumps available, cheap and reliable, and you can carry a spare.
Good luck
Mike
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Tony,
I have used a rubber O ring between the block and bulb flange, with success.
Cheers
Mike
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Rob,
Having just retrimmed my TR2, just a bit of advice re repairing the ally trims, I would suggest you re-form them over a piece of steel bar, say 1/2" diameter, and use a rubber mallet to gently reshape the curvature, you do not want to streach the ally. To soften ( anneal) it, rub on some soap and then heat with a blowtorch until the soap blackens ( ie. act as a temperature indicator) and allow to cool slowly. The ally will then be soft and easy to reform.
Good luck
Mike
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Mike, I have a number of spare propshafts if you can't solve your problem.
Bob,
Can I take you up on this offer for a spare shaft, mine is definately too short by at least an inch. I am in York so could call if convenient. What do you want for one? How do I contact you best, e mail or phone?
Cheers
Mike
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Bob, the car came with box and engine already fitted.
Engine / box must be fitted correctly as bellhousing flange is just ( 1/2" or so ) forward of bulkhead.
Can anyone tell me the fully extended propshaft length please?
Cheers
Mike
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Cheers Bob,
yes, I made the male & female spigots on the spacer a good fit so should be lined up ok.
Just a final thought, could the engine be mounted a little forward somehow?
Mike
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Gentlemen,
Many thanks for all your comments, have made a cast-iron spacer approx 22mm thick for the front flange and fitted longer cap-head bolts.
Spring length seems ok at around 475mm, unladen, so still a puzzle.
Cheers
Mike
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Thanks Viv, Bob, for replies.
Shaft in good order, splines fully extended freely. Flanges correct bothe ends. Do you have the extended length?,
Maybe axle too far back, any dimensions to check please.
Eg spring end to axle centre?
Cheers
Mike
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Just tried fitting the prop shaft to the TR2 which I am finishing off, having bought it part restored, and find it is about 20mm too short. As far as I know the axle is a later Girling, and the box is standard 3 sincro.
Any ideas?
Cheers
Mike
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Al, Stuart, thanks for the reply.
I have another 'seat'question: are TR2 seat backs narrower than TR3?
I have some used TR3 covers which I scrounged to use as patterns but they seem too wide for the seat frames I got with my part-restored car.
I have a very good offer from a local trimmer who would send old covers plus my new new hide, obtained at a bargain price on Ebay, to China, they will make new patterns and covers, all for £150, so I need either TR2 old covers for patterns ( if they are natrrower) or wider seat frames, ex TR3?
I also plan to make my my own seat base foams, by ordering foam 'wedges' from a foam supplier. From memory when I last bought foam for an XK 150 I was restoring ( about 20 years ago ) they did 3 grades of foam firmness, soft/medium/firm, has anyone experience/recomendatons for the suitable grade for seat bases for a TR2/3.
Cheers
Mike L
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Hi
I am in need of some seats for my TR2, and was wondering about fitting TR4A seats, so if anyone could measure the seat cushion and backrest width on their car, this would be very helpfull,
or, do you know if they would fit or not?
Cheers
Mike L
revotec fan controller/ manual overide wiring
in General TR Technical
Posted
I wired the warning light to the fan supply terminal on the relay after the contact, ( so the light indicates when the fan is running via switch or stat ) and used a Lucas 3 position toggle switch ( ie light switch ) for the fuel pump, and fan over-ride,
ie. off/fuel/fuel+fan.
Adds a little extra security,
Cheers
Mike