powel1g
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Posts posted by powel1g
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Thanks Stuart.
Just ordered
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I have my rear lights removed for back panel to be sprayed. Ready for re-fitting I have some new foam gaskets but am cautious of fitting them without some sort of semi setting sealer to avoid leaks.
not that I plan driving in the rain, but of course there is always a risk.
Any recommendations ?
Cheers
Gavin
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Sorry been away for a few days with the wife and the ASBO. Aka Mini Cooper s. Most anti social car I have ever owned. Anyway it is off to be sold at the NEC in a couple of weeks and the wife is staying!
Many thanks for the feedback. New angle drive and exhaust will be ordered on Monday.
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Facing the thought of another angled speedo drive only lasting a few thousand miles. Has anyone experience of the version supplied by a company called Speedograph Richfield ?
I know they are more expensive, but would relish some feedback.
From their website it appears the listing for TR6 is BG 2401-05.
my car has a 25% overdrive so I was hoping some learned forum friends could advise if this would be relevant or not.
Regards
Gav
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Decision made. Original cast manifold it is. Thanks for the replies. Gav
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Now here’s the thing. Yesterday my not very old angle speedo drive packed up. No surprise I hear you say.
I have managed to convince the wife the easiest way to change it is to remove the exhaust first! Well she is feeling sympathetic to my shoulder dislocating problems .
So the question is do I go for the Phoenix crossbox single pipe system and keep my standard cast manifold. Or do I embrace a tubular manifold? If too many replies suggest the fit is poor then I think Inknow where I am at.
In anticipation
Gav
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Let’s just say, my own fault to a degree.
Tidy workspace and all that!
Twisted whilst carrying the diff, my foot was planted. My knee twisted but my foot didn’t. There was a loud pop from my knee. Must have looked hilarious the ballet of me desperately looking for somewhere to drop the diff before falling over.
Couldn’t walk for a week...
Anyway, the mri scan reveals no major damage and time will be a healer. Apparently it is called a subluxation when your knee pops out and goes back in again.
Thankfully I changed the gearbox last year
Gav
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My biggest problem was I managed to dislocate my knee and tear my LCL whilst doing this job. All most inconvenient as the car is still in bits.
Happy days
Gav
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To conclude my original post on what torque setting is read for the cap head bolts attaching the driveshaft to hub. I have had a somewhat ambivalent response from the supplier.
Some searching of engineering sites suggests 55nm would be appropriate. I am done thinking about it now and they are assembled.
Interestingly I was not expecting any more hiccups. Famous last words......
I attempted to re-fit my wire wheel adaptors only to find they foul the hub. Not the end of the world I know, but it would have been nice to be warned in advance of the purchase.
6mm spacers on route from revingtons now.
Gav
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I have a feeling, if you unbolt the driveshaft from the diff. You can dress the driveshaft to one side and the grease nipple in the outer uj will present itself.
Regards
Gav
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They are the Quaife version. The driveshafts have a flat flange either end. So it bolts to back of the hub, just as it does to the diff. Only difference is the back of the hub is drilled / tapped.
They are supplied with 3/8 unf high tensile cap head bolts but I have found various suggestions on torque settings online.
Had some spare time today so wanted to get it assembled. Will be calling Dennis Vessey tomorrow to ascertain the torque setting as he supplied them.
Regards
Gav
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Sorry Mick I may have not been clear with my post. The cap head bolts in question attach the driveshaft to the drive flange on the back of the hub. The design of the hub is different to the original as it has a flat face rather than a yoke. The driveshafts have flanges either end. As supplied with the hubs from Dennis Vessey.
I have replaced the trailing arm studs using the jig from CDD.
Regards
Gav
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I am in the process of fitting new hubs to my TR6. Beautifully engineered as supplied by Dennis Vessey. Since the driveshafts are too large to pass through the trailing arm they have to be assembled on the car.
3/8 unf high tensile (12.9) are supplied to attach the driveshafts to the hubs. I have mailed the supplier for advice on what to torque these bolts to, but as yet no reply.
I have had a fumble through various web pages but there is no substitute for advice from real people.
50nm too much ?
Regards
Gav
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Thanks for the comments thus far. I am in no major rush so hope to see what our local members have fitted.
Discount sounds worth waiting for!
I may even consider a bespoke system if poor fit is commonplace.
Regards
Gav
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I am in the process of replacing my rear hubs and driveshafts. To do this I have had to tease the steel exhaust off !
I could probably get it back on, but, am tempted to replace it with the single pipe super sport crossbox version currently available.
Does anyone have experience with the fit , quality etc
Regards
Gav
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My Lidl one expired just after the warranty did.
Using an electronic version from Maypole now . Mine is the 8A 9 stage version appx £32
No complaints so far
Gav
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I am contemplating a trip to Northern Italy next year in my TR6, but work and family commitments will not allow me much more than a week.
Has anyone got experience of using the sleeper train ( car goes on same train) which runs from Düsseldorf to Verona ?
Regards
Gavin
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Good point. My heritage cert confirms the car was originally supplied with wire wheels. These wheels are indeed 5.5 * 15 but I cannot confirm the provenance. Would I find the makers mark without the tyres coming off?
Gavin
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I have a set of 72 spoke wire wheels taken from my TR6 which I will be posting in the for sale section shortly.
Any idea what a reasonable price would be. I am not out to make big money but it would be nice if they went some way to covering the cost of the recent knock on mini lite I have just purchased (just 1).
There are four wheels, previously powder coated light grey c/w 165 15 Vredstein Sprint tyres. The tyres all have plenty of tread, but I cannot find a date stamp on them.I is quite likely they are those featured on a receipt dating back to 1986 in my paperwork with the car.
Perhaps they would be some use for a show car or moving a resto around? I would not advocate using them on the road. They were on my car when purchased but I gave up trying to find someone sensible to balance them. They car was unused for a fair time so the wheels may not be true?
I have tried to be as honest as possible.
I have a fifth wheel for free as it has what can only be described as an agricultural repair and a positively solid Pirelli .
Your thoughts please.
Regards
Gavin
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I did start to doubt myself so checked the receipt. Definitely from the super unleaded pump. Besides I put almost 40 litres in.
I am just going to keep an eye on things. Am also planning to take the car to Italy this year so if there is anything wrong I hope it manifests itself sooner rather than later!
Gavin
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Well I have had a bit of time to investigate.
Compression test results
Cold, plugs out,WOT
Dry / wet
All appx 150 / 175
Tested again hot, just out of interest
All appx 200 to 210.
Water level has not moved so got me thinking. A few miles earlier I had filled up with fuel. I normally use shell v nitro, but in this instance used the nearby garage. BP I think. Now we are literally talking fog from the exhaust. Enough so the gentle breeze tonight pretty much filled the garage as it blew it back in. It doesn't clear much on a hot engine, so I was wondering. Could the petrol have been contaminated with diesel?
On the basis of the water level not changing and the comp test revealing nothing. I am in no rush to take anything to bits. My neighbour is an RAC guy and he has a leak down tester on its way. Let's see how it goes from here.
Regards
Gavin
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I had not considered that. I will look up the torque settings.
Been told I have got to walk the dog over the Downs to the pub before I go anywhere near the garage!
Tr6 metering unit woes
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I also had a metering unit seize up. Similarly it sheared the end of the drive from the distributor pedestal.
replacement driveshafts of decent quality were hard to come by at the time.
following this event I was advised two things:
put a shallow saw cut around the plastic drive dog to encourage it to fail rather than the steel drive.
dont use fuel additive ( suggestion was, something in the additive can cause the rotor to bind)
I have no idea if that is accurate but haven’t used additive since. Put the savings in a tin ready for hardened valve seats in the future.
regards
Gav