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About powel1g

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  1. I also had a metering unit seize up. Similarly it sheared the end of the drive from the distributor pedestal. replacement driveshafts of decent quality were hard to come by at the time. following this event I was advised two things: put a shallow saw cut around the plastic drive dog to encourage it to fail rather than the steel drive. dont use fuel additive ( suggestion was, something in the additive can cause the rotor to bind) I have no idea if that is accurate but haven’t used additive since. Put the savings in a tin ready for hardened valve seats in the future. regards Gav
  2. powel1g


    Thanks for the replies. Parallel it is then. Cheers Gav
  3. powel1g


    Having replaced some parts on the front suspension of my TR6 this week I plan to get the tracking checked / adjusted. Is the consensus 0 degrees is the norm, or am I being led astray. Regards Gav
  4. Thanks Stuart. Just ordered
  5. I have my rear lights removed for back panel to be sprayed. Ready for re-fitting I have some new foam gaskets but am cautious of fitting them without some sort of semi setting sealer to avoid leaks. not that I plan driving in the rain, but of course there is always a risk. Any recommendations ? Cheers Gavin
  6. Sorry been away for a few days with the wife and the ASBO. Aka Mini Cooper s. Most anti social car I have ever owned. Anyway it is off to be sold at the NEC in a couple of weeks and the wife is staying! Many thanks for the feedback. New angle drive and exhaust will be ordered on Monday.
  7. Facing the thought of another angled speedo drive only lasting a few thousand miles. Has anyone experience of the version supplied by a company called Speedograph Richfield ? I know they are more expensive, but would relish some feedback. From their website it appears the listing for TR6 is BG 2401-05. my car has a 25% overdrive so I was hoping some learned forum friends could advise if this would be relevant or not. Regards Gav
  8. Decision made. Original cast manifold it is. Thanks for the replies. Gav
  9. Now here’s the thing. Yesterday my not very old angle speedo drive packed up. No surprise I hear you say. I have managed to convince the wife the easiest way to change it is to remove the exhaust first! Well she is feeling sympathetic to my shoulder dislocating problems . So the question is do I go for the Phoenix crossbox single pipe system and keep my standard cast manifold. Or do I embrace a tubular manifold? If too many replies suggest the fit is poor then I think Inknow where I am at. In anticipation Gav
  10. Let’s just say, my own fault to a degree. Tidy workspace and all that! Twisted whilst carrying the diff, my foot was planted. My knee twisted but my foot didn’t. There was a loud pop from my knee. Must have looked hilarious the ballet of me desperately looking for somewhere to drop the diff before falling over. Couldn’t walk for a week... Anyway, the mri scan reveals no major damage and time will be a healer. Apparently it is called a subluxation when your knee pops out and goes back in again. Thankfully I changed the gearbox last year Gav
  11. My biggest problem was I managed to dislocate my knee and tear my LCL whilst doing this job. All most inconvenient as the car is still in bits. Happy days Gav
  12. To conclude my original post on what torque setting is read for the cap head bolts attaching the driveshaft to hub. I have had a somewhat ambivalent response from the supplier. Some searching of engineering sites suggests 55nm would be appropriate. I am done thinking about it now and they are assembled. Interestingly I was not expecting any more hiccups. Famous last words...... I attempted to re-fit my wire wheel adaptors only to find they foul the hub. Not the end of the world I know, but it would have been nice to be warned in advance of the purchase. 6mm spacers on route from revingtons now. Gav
  13. I have a feeling, if you unbolt the driveshaft from the diff. You can dress the driveshaft to one side and the grease nipple in the outer uj will present itself. Regards Gav
  14. They are the Quaife version. The driveshafts have a flat flange either end. So it bolts to back of the hub, just as it does to the diff. Only difference is the back of the hub is drilled / tapped. They are supplied with 3/8 unf high tensile cap head bolts but I have found various suggestions on torque settings online. Had some spare time today so wanted to get it assembled. Will be calling Dennis Vessey tomorrow to ascertain the torque setting as he supplied them. Regards Gav
  15. Sorry Mick I may have not been clear with my post. The cap head bolts in question attach the driveshaft to the drive flange on the back of the hub. The design of the hub is different to the original as it has a flat face rather than a yoke. The driveshafts have flanges either end. As supplied with the hubs from Dennis Vessey. I have replaced the trailing arm studs using the jig from CDD. Regards Gav
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