[Toe-in TR4]

Perfect - many thanks

Norman

[Toe-in TR4]

Can someone please clarify the WM figure of 1/16" toe-in please?

 

Basically my question is, over what distance should the 1/16" toe-in occur?

For example.............

Is it over the distance across the rim (lip-lip)?

Or maybe, over the overall 25" diameter of the tyre?

 

Funny that I can find numerous threads and videos that explain how to measure it but none are clear about the point I'm asking about.

 

PS

Of course, if it were specified as an angle I wouldn't have to be asking the question.

 

Many thanks

 

Norman

[TR4 Steering rack]

Thank you everyone - very helpful.

Looks like I buy the standard rack ratio.

Norman

[TR4 Steering rack]

My TR4 has the early "ears" type steering rack fixing et al but the rack itself was a saloon rack and therefore is a little "slow".

This is something I would like to correct (now that I've got to the stage of worrying about carpet clips (my last posting)).

 

It would seem easier to buy outright a new "fast" rack from the likes of Moss, rather than find a standard one in known condition at the right price.

 

So - my question is does anyone have experience of a "fast" rack on a TR4 and basically, would they recommend it?

 

Thanks for any advice.

regards

Norman

[Carpet clips]

Thanks everyone - great tips to follow - replacements from Woolies, Moss or TRGB, a block of wood and some washers.

Where else could you find such know-how!

 

Norman

[Carpet clips]

Can anyone recommend a source of good quality (strong) carpet clips.

I find that the tri-pointed thin metal part that pierces through the carpet is just not robust enough to keep locked to its counterpart on the reverse side.

Admit to using ones via eBay - so maybe thats the problem, but dont really want to start trying every one on the market if others have been through this.

Any suggestions please?

Thanks

Norman

[Cibie / Valeo headlamps at Euro Car Parts]

Thanks Bob - I'm smiling again

 

I ordered the bulbs and lens from Euro (and got the discount) but they came in 3 separate deliveries - so yes, the power the Forum.

 

Norman

[Cibie / Valeo headlamps at Euro Car Parts]

Forgive my naivety but.....

Are either the bulbs or the glass reflectors "handed"?

 

Does H4 fully define the bulb (ie are there any variants, like for position of filaments etc)

 

I've purchased 2 x 082441 and a two pack of OSRAM H4 60/55W Night Breakers Unlimited and was about to fit, but then got nervous!

 

Reassurance please.

 

Norman

[Anyone using Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield or Wraps ??]

Interesting topic. I have a cast iron manifold and I seem to recall reading that only tubular ones should be wrapped. Can anyone confirm and if so, why?

Norman

[Swapping LHD to RHD - the pro's and cons]

I converted my 1962 TR4 from LHD to RHD during its total rebuild.

The big items are clearly...

Steering rack (straightforward)

Wiring loom (you will need a new one whatever way round)

New brake pipes and routing (straightforward)

Cutting/re-positioning of bulkhead holes/brackets for steering wheel shaft and brake/clutch assy (just needs care and measure twice cut once)

You can judiciously bend the brake and clutch peddles to have the correct off-set but need to source a RH throttle peddle assy (Quite rare)

and the BigOne is the Dash (rare as rocking horse ....). I cut and re-welded my LHD one as per advice in this forum. Again, this needs a lot of care and reasonable welding skills - but it certainly can be done and maybe your only option.

 

There are other bits like different wiper arms and changing the motor's parking position but all do-able if you go slow enough!

 

I found the colour the bigger decision and decided to go with the heritage certificate colour - but I liked it anyway. (Not so easy to change later)

On reflection I'm glad i made the decision to go RHD and i know that if a newly minited Silicon Valley VP wants to pay me 5 x the going rate then changing back will be relativity simple. (I didn't weld up the bulkhead holes, just covered with nice riveted thick ally plates)

 

Good luck with the rebuild - I'm just starting to really enjoy mine on the road although my snagging list never seems to get any shorter!

Norman

[J Type Speedo Cable Run]

My "J" OD (and GB) came from a saloon, The speedo drive exited say 35Deg downwards under drivers seat. So didn't use a right angle drive, just a nice wide sweeping turn under the drivers floor pan to the engine bay. At the time I remember being delighted to see the cable lined up with holes already in the inner chassis rails perfectly.

But I did fall foul of the fact that in my case the dimension of the OD square drive is not the same. So had to get a cable made up with different size "drive squares" at each end. And it think the cable was a little longer than the std 69" (can't recall exactly why but perhaps if was because I wanted the Speedo on the left of the Tacho).

Good luck

Norman

 

Should add that mine was a 1962 TR4 Left hooker originally.

[Windscreen washer jets]

Thank you guys

Norman

[Windscreen washer jets]

Following this with interest as I need to fit same sometime to my 4.

But I'm puzzled by two things.

Most kits are shown with (two) "spacers" with one end diagonally cut, which appears to be like the spacer already fitted (internally) over the wheelbox shaft. So, since they are already in-situ - why are they supplied in the washer kit? Am I missing something?

And second, I realize the hole to take the shaft in the scuttle is slightly tear shaped (presumably to take the water feed) but in my case I cannot see it offers a big enough aperture. Is it common to have to enlarge this part of the hole in the scuttle?

Remembering the difficulty i had to fit and position the wheelboxes et al I don't relish taking them out to enlarge the aperture. I think I would rather drill for separate jets, even if not original.

 

Thanks for any clarification

Norman

[TR4 - shortening the front springs]

Well, for the benefit of those who may search the subject in the future I have two things that I must add.....

 

One - Do the sensible thing and contact the supplier . Neil Revington said (without hesitation or repetition)....

.......He would not add the 5mm extra thick isolators with his Red stripe 450 lb springs ("unless I really wanted to add more ground clearance" - which I don't).

.......He reckons the velocity ratio, wheel to shocks is a little above 2:1 (More than the 1.7 I had thought it was).

 

So, if I replace the (two per spring) +5 mm extra thick PolyWhatNots with the standard ones I will get an extra 10mm clearance at the bump stop and therefore and I should be getting about 40mm+ rebound at the wheel - QED.

 

Two - I realise I was incorrect in thinking that reversing the wishbones would have the same effect. Whilst it will lower the ground clearance it doesn't increase the final rebound bump stop clearance. My muddled thinking there!

 

Anyway, although I have yet to remove the +5mm isolators I'm now confident it will regain my rebound clearance.

Thanks for your contributions guys.

Regards

Norman

[TR4 - shortening the front springs]

Well thanks for all that guys.

 

Whilst I'd like to try a little sgragging I'm leaning towards doing the obvious and talk to Revingtons first. I'm sure I ran a cursory rule over the springs, but an accurate and recorded measurement "no"!

 

Then, if i can change over the wishbones in a day, I'll be happy. I seem to remember struggling during the restoration and thinking what a bl###y long spring which was not helped with two 5mm thick SuperPolySomething spacers.

 

Just looked at the original springs (shorter but with the ali spacer) and I noted that the end coils are already ground to get them seating square, and I have my doubts if another 5mm wouldn't leave them a little thin.

 

Thanks for bringing a little clarity guys

 

Norman

[TR4 - shortening the front springs]

Thank you Justin - so scragging is the answer. You learn something new every day!

Norman

[TR4 - shortening the front springs]

Hi everyone.

 

I need to get the bump stop gap at the front of my ’62 TR4 up from their 12mm to 22mm (an increase of 10mm). So I think I have a couple of options. (Some of you will at this stage be asking why the hell does he want to do that – and for you I have added an explanation later on.)

 

Anyway – back to my options and call for advice, which hopefully will enable me to make a decision as to which option looks to be easiest.

 

Option 1 - Grind off 5mm from both ends of the spring.

 

Has anyone done this and have any pointers?

 

Option 2 - I've seen it said that you can reverse the lower wishbone arms (to lower the front). But I have never read a practical account of it being done. So again - has anyone actually done this and if so are there any snags to be aware of?

 

Re Option 2, I have scaled off the WM drawing and reckon that this would effectively increase the bump stop gap by about 16mm. Since I only want a 10mm increase I could then add a spacer of 6mm thickness to the spring.

 

OK – that’s my question asked!

 

…………………………………………………………………………………….

 

No need to read on unless your inquisitiveness has got the better of you.

 

The reason for wanting to do this………..

 

Having restored the car using Revington's 450 lbs front springs (and 160lb rear leafs) I find I'm low on “rebound distance". That is to say, the static distance between the (front) chassis bump rubber and the underside of the lower wishbone (where it impacts) is only about 12mm. Now, i have never seen this clearance stated but 12mm seems very small to me, and scaling off the WM drawing suggests something like 22 mm would be about right.

 

By my reckoning 22mm would equate to a maximum rebound at the wheel (again, from the static position) of about 36mm. That seems about right to me and would in fact be similar to what I now get at the rear (again, after some lowering and fettling).

 

Thanks in anticipation

Norman

[J type overdrive]

Thanks Bob,

So a little fettling to be done then!

Have seen quite a few 1000T/m speedos about but the 840 seems to be much rarer - but I keep looking.

Appreciate you nailing down this approach for me. I now have a few options which is this one, using a miniature gearbox in the cable and I have just asked Speedy Cables if they can recalibrate my 1184T unit (answer awaited).

 

Thanks again

Norman

[TR4 rocker shaft removal]

Thanks Mick, I feel much more confident about it now.

Norman

[TR4 rocker shaft removal]

Thanks Mick - and may I now ask a supplementary question?

 

This will be the second re-torque since running in, and the reason is that I suspect that my original 500 mile torque down was at too low a figure.

 

Its only been a couple of hundred miles since the first re-torque and I don't see any signs of gasket blow and of course this time I will be double double checking the wrench calibration.

 

Having said that..Is there any reason anyone can think of why a second torque down is not a good idea.? Clearly I don't want to replace the gasket unnecessarily.

 

Thanks

Norman

[J type overdrive]

I fitted a saloon MK2.5 G/B and J type O/D in my TR4 with all the mods mentioned and it is fine, other than the engagement being a little slow. I guess this has something to do with the hydraulic pressure but I've yet to look into that aspect in any detail.

 

I checked my speedo drive ratio just a couple of days ago by measuring the distance travelled for 10T of the speedo cable and lo and behold, found it needed a 1.4:1 change to get the speedo accurate (Exactly the 2.5:1 versus 3.5:1 that Bob mentioned - so I'm now looking for a saloon speedo).

 

Bob - can i ask if your saloon speedo is 120mph or 140 mph. I can only find the latter on eBay at the moment? And perhaps what the Smiths part number is?

 

PS I see a fair priced G/B and J O/d on eBay right now (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-gearbox-2-5-2500-2000-TR6-/321925172238?hash=item4af43c4c0e:g:ZPgAAOSw6dNWTfgB)

 

Regards

Norman

[TR4 rocker shaft removal]

Some advice please guys. I need to re-torque my head (well not my head).

To remove the rocker assembly, is it usual practice to slacken off the tappets before removing the rocker shaft?

Or is it OK to leave the tappets as they are, and progressively undo the rocker shaft pedestal nuts in turn (say half a turn or 1 turn at a time).

Thanks

Norman

 

 

[TR4 Silencers in series!]

Thanks everyone - and Mike, I'll give you a call over the next couple of days if I may and maybe I can pop over with the car and we can do a quick dB compare.

 

Sad to say - but I reckon I must be nearer The Carpenters than AC/DC!

 

Norman

[TR4 Silencers in series!]

Seems we think the same way on this Tim.

Although I will probably go ahead with the oval box that I have, I have always been curious about the term Cherry Bomb.

I've seen plenty of photos etc but never been sure if it has a specific meaning. I see some adverts say glass packed, but I presume it is a straight through pipe and its just the side chamber that is glass packed. Would like to know for future reference.

 

And I presume you didn't feel a noticeable loss of power?

 

Norman

[TR4 Silencers in series!]

Thanks Roger - guess you find your set-up too quiet!

 

(If this gets posted twice its because i thought I replied, then lost it, then rewrote it!)

 

My set-up is the Moss s.s. round silencer which sounds rather raspy and unpleasant to my ears over much of the rev range. Although I'm still not thrashing the car and leaving the sound behind - so maybe that's a factor.

And anyway, I would like to listen to the engine for a while.

 

I'm erring towards doing the addition of the oval as I can always splice a bit of pipe back in if i change my mind.

Thanks again and glad you cannot see any esoteric reason that the "order" of small and long is important.

Norman