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About TRnorm

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR3 (first car!), Sunbeam 90 convertible, 1800 Land crab, 105E Van, Triumph GT6, Cortina, Fairthorp Electron Minor, 924, 924Turbo (pocket rocket!!), 944 cab (current), MX5 (current), Reliant Scimitar Coupe,
  1. TRnorm

    Toe-in TR4

    Perfect - many thanks Norman
  2. TRnorm

    Toe-in TR4

    Can someone please clarify the WM figure of 1/16" toe-in please? Basically my question is, over what distance should the 1/16" toe-in occur? For example............. Is it over the distance across the rim (lip-lip)? Or maybe, over the overall 25" diameter of the tyre? Funny that I can find numerous threads and videos that explain how to measure it but none are clear about the point I'm asking about. PS Of course, if it were specified as an angle I wouldn't have to be asking the question. Many thanks Norman
  3. Thank you everyone - very helpful. Looks like I buy the standard rack ratio. Norman
  4. My TR4 has the early "ears" type steering rack fixing et al but the rack itself was a saloon rack and therefore is a little "slow". This is something I would like to correct (now that I've got to the stage of worrying about carpet clips (my last posting)). It would seem easier to buy outright a new "fast" rack from the likes of Moss, rather than find a standard one in known condition at the right price. So - my question is does anyone have experience of a "fast" rack on a TR4 and basically, would they recommend it? Thanks for any advice. regards Norman
  5. Thanks everyone - great tips to follow - replacements from Woolies, Moss or TRGB, a block of wood and some washers. Where else could you find such know-how! Norman
  6. Can anyone recommend a source of good quality (strong) carpet clips. I find that the tri-pointed thin metal part that pierces through the carpet is just not robust enough to keep locked to its counterpart on the reverse side. Admit to using ones via eBay - so maybe thats the problem, but dont really want to start trying every one on the market if others have been through this. Any suggestions please? Thanks Norman
  7. Thanks Bob - I'm smiling again I ordered the bulbs and lens from Euro (and got the discount) but they came in 3 separate deliveries - so yes, the power the Forum. Norman
  8. Forgive my naivety but..... Are either the bulbs or the glass reflectors "handed"? Does H4 fully define the bulb (ie are there any variants, like for position of filaments etc) I've purchased 2 x 082441 and a two pack of OSRAM H4 60/55W Night Breakers Unlimited and was about to fit, but then got nervous! Reassurance please. Norman
  9. Interesting topic. I have a cast iron manifold and I seem to recall reading that only tubular ones should be wrapped. Can anyone confirm and if so, why? Norman
  10. I converted my 1962 TR4 from LHD to RHD during its total rebuild. The big items are clearly... Steering rack (straightforward) Wiring loom (you will need a new one whatever way round) New brake pipes and routing (straightforward) Cutting/re-positioning of bulkhead holes/brackets for steering wheel shaft and brake/clutch assy (just needs care and measure twice cut once) You can judiciously bend the brake and clutch peddles to have the correct off-set but need to source a RH throttle peddle assy (Quite rare) and the BigOne is the Dash (rare as rocking horse ....). I cut and re-welded my LHD one as per advice in this forum. Again, this needs a lot of care and reasonable welding skills - but it certainly can be done and maybe your only option. There are other bits like different wiper arms and changing the motor's parking position but all do-able if you go slow enough! I found the colour the bigger decision and decided to go with the heritage certificate colour - but I liked it anyway. (Not so easy to change later) On reflection I'm glad i made the decision to go RHD and i know that if a newly minited Silicon Valley VP wants to pay me 5 x the going rate then changing back will be relativity simple. (I didn't weld up the bulkhead holes, just covered with nice riveted thick ally plates) Good luck with the rebuild - I'm just starting to really enjoy mine on the road although my snagging list never seems to get any shorter! Norman
  11. My "J" OD (and GB) came from a saloon, The speedo drive exited say 35Deg downwards under drivers seat. So didn't use a right angle drive, just a nice wide sweeping turn under the drivers floor pan to the engine bay. At the time I remember being delighted to see the cable lined up with holes already in the inner chassis rails perfectly. But I did fall foul of the fact that in my case the dimension of the OD square drive is not the same. So had to get a cable made up with different size "drive squares" at each end. And it think the cable was a little longer than the std 69" (can't recall exactly why but perhaps if was because I wanted the Speedo on the left of the Tacho). Good luck Norman Should add that mine was a 1962 TR4 Left hooker originally.
  12. Following this with interest as I need to fit same sometime to my 4. But I'm puzzled by two things. Most kits are shown with (two) "spacers" with one end diagonally cut, which appears to be like the spacer already fitted (internally) over the wheelbox shaft. So, since they are already in-situ - why are they supplied in the washer kit? Am I missing something? And second, I realize the hole to take the shaft in the scuttle is slightly tear shaped (presumably to take the water feed) but in my case I cannot see it offers a big enough aperture. Is it common to have to enlarge this part of the hole in the scuttle? Remembering the difficulty i had to fit and position the wheelboxes et al I don't relish taking them out to enlarge the aperture. I think I would rather drill for separate jets, even if not original. Thanks for any clarification Norman
  13. Well, for the benefit of those who may search the subject in the future I have two things that I must add..... One - Do the sensible thing and contact the supplier . Neil Revington said (without hesitation or repetition).... .......He would not add the 5mm extra thick isolators with his Red stripe 450 lb springs ("unless I really wanted to add more ground clearance" - which I don't). .......He reckons the velocity ratio, wheel to shocks is a little above 2:1 (More than the 1.7 I had thought it was). So, if I replace the (two per spring) +5 mm extra thick PolyWhatNots with the standard ones I will get an extra 10mm clearance at the bump stop and therefore and I should be getting about 40mm+ rebound at the wheel - QED. Two - I realise I was incorrect in thinking that reversing the wishbones would have the same effect. Whilst it will lower the ground clearance it doesn't increase the final rebound bump stop clearance. My muddled thinking there! Anyway, although I have yet to remove the +5mm isolators I'm now confident it will regain my rebound clearance. Thanks for your contributions guys. Regards Norman
  14. Well thanks for all that guys. Whilst I'd like to try a little sgragging I'm leaning towards doing the obvious and talk to Revingtons first. I'm sure I ran a cursory rule over the springs, but an accurate and recorded measurement "no"! Then, if i can change over the wishbones in a day, I'll be happy. I seem to remember struggling during the restoration and thinking what a bl###y long spring which was not helped with two 5mm thick SuperPolySomething spacers. Just looked at the original springs (shorter but with the ali spacer) and I noted that the end coils are already ground to get them seating square, and I have my doubts if another 5mm wouldn't leave them a little thin. Thanks for bringing a little clarity guys Norman
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