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About MacMackenzie

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  • Location
    Woking, UK
  1. Thanks Wilfried and Nick, I spent some time yesterday balancing the the throttle bodies and it does seem to have helped ! I just tried Wilfried's test and the mechanisms now start to move together. Unfortunately I ran out of petrol during tests ! so will top up tomorrow and see if it runs any better. Many thanks. Mac.
  2. Thanks guys, forgot to mention I did do a compression test and got 13 Bar on each cylinder (cold), which I assume is fine. I'll try tinkering with the balance on the butterflies 1,2&3. and see if that makes a difference. But it still feels down on power which leads me back to maybe only firing properly on 5. Will do a bit more research and do an update post if I'm still stuck. Thanks again. Mac.
  3. Thanks Kevo, I've not had the throttle bodies refurbed (or balanced) just cleaned up etc. I'm trying to understand why that would cause rough idle, are you saying that air might be getting into (say) cylinder 1 at idle causing uneven idle and hence this would disappear once throttle opens (as slight difference in opening unnoticeable once butterflies are open...). It is a good point but would it cause the smokey tail pipe (which btw is white) ? thanks.
  4. Thanks Peter, I'm on points, I'll check tow ref stray HT, but all the sparks seem fine.
  5. Thanks John, good point, I have twin exhaust (MOSS I think) all the way back to the manifold, so by the look of it the LH tail pipe serves the front 3 cylinders....
  6. I've recently finished complete re-build and successfully got the MOT, but the engine isn't running right, feels like it's running on 5 and idle is far from smooth... injectors are all spraying fine and decent spark (new plugs) on all. Engine seems to run more smoothly as revs increase which made me think it might be a timing issue but I've tinkered with timing between 4 and 12 degs (static) with no improvement (12 seems better). It's a 1973 engine (re-built by Gary Bailey), injection unit re-built by Prestige. One clue which I can't crack is that the left hand tail pipe smokes far more than the right (which doesn't smoke much at all) also holding palms at both pipes the LH exhaust seems cooler; which makes me think one of the cylinders isn't firing properly. Grateful any thoughts ? Thanks. Mac.
  7. Hi John, I think my reply on the fix got a bit lost in the thread (post 16), but briefly the butterflies were not completely closed, only open about 5 thou, but as someone else pointed it it doesn't take much of a gap to get the revs going !
  8. As far as I could see there was no leakage around the screw heads, but I notice that one of the screw holes in the cover is not completely flat, which I'll need to sort.
  9. Thanks Robin, good point, I did replace the wooden strips but will certainly double check as I agree it's a weak area. Mac.
  10. Thanks Steve, got a bit side tracked today whilst working on the idle (which is now fine) I noticed a small pool of oil under the engine which I traced to the lower part of the timing cover (wasn't the seal), but tightening an extra turn on the screws slowed it but not stopped so have spent the day removing everything to get the timing cover off... One step forward 2 steps back, sound familiar ! I'm taking tomorrow off :-) all the best. Mac.
  11. Thanks again all, I think I've cracked it. Giving an extra turn on the manifold nuts helped, but was still pulling a lot of air through the air box. Although the butterflies looked closed they were in fact a few thou open (probably 5 or so), so a bit of fiddling with the adjustment screws seems to have fixed it; surprising how little opening it needs to get the revs going ! however, injectors 1&2 have decided to stop working now, so that will be tomorrows investigation ! Thanks to Steve and Ade for their local offer of help, but looks like I'm sorted (for the moment !) perhaps will be in touch again when I'm on the road... :-)
  12. Thanks for the offer Steve, I'll see what I find today, but if I'm still scratching my head I'll get back to you as it would be great to at least kick around a few thoughts on it. Mac.
  13. Many thanks for all your prompt replies, consensus is that air is getting in somehow... The Air bleed screw is fully wound in, throttle cable isn't connected yet (but the return spring on the mechanism at the manifold is; so it's holding the butterflies closed). I don;t think this is anything subtle like ignition retard as 3,000 rpm is an underestimate. I think I'll try blocking every orifice into the manifold and see what happens ! Thanks. Mac.
  14. Just got around to starting my re-built engine (PI), good news is it started, bad news is that the revs went up quite quickly to beyond 3,000 so I turned ignition off. First assumption was the idle screw was too far in, but I re-started and no amount of winding (in or out) the idle screw made any difference... My next assumption was the butterflies had somehow opened, but lifting off the air box showed they were definitely closed... Vacuum pipe to the servo, PI Meter, and to the idle screw are in place (as is the (new) air filter). Manifold gasket all looks secure as do the pipes interconnecting the manifolds... My possibly dumb question is can the PI meter deliver too much fuel (I've replaced 2 of the injectors but the other 4 looked fine), and can just pushing fuel in make it rev faster ? I thought you need air as well to make it rev.... Any thoughts most welcome especially any diagnostic hints ? Many thanks. Mac.
  15. Thanks all, the starter motor has a sticky label on it marked LRS187 (dated 07/03), the main casing has 25647D & 2M100 stamped on it... looking at Rimmers that appears to be the correct motor for a CR (1973)... Thanks. Mac.
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