wayne taylor
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Posts posted by wayne taylor
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Come on then - decide for me!
Racetorations - can't find one for sale??
TR London - plastic one for £90.
What's the best material to use bearing in mind I'll want to cut a panel out for the speedo angle connection. And I also want access to the top up plug
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What a beautiful shot!
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So - laying it up at the end of this month for several weeks/months. What is the best battery management for me to employ (haven't got a battery isolator?). Bearing in mind I may need to switch the ignition on, occasionally.
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Give me more of aclue Al? Frost? web site? Do you mean woollies the high street brand? Went bust didn't it about 2yrs ago??
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Oh - fun and games, can't wait! Interesting to learn the tunnel is cardboard. S what you are suggesting Al is to replace with a different material? How much and where's the best place to buy one.
Brilliant feedback - thanx again guys.
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I'm planning to restore some colour into the rear seat area and footwell panels. I also plan to change the colour of the piping on the front seats. Ideally I don't want to use a spray - but prefer the better control i would have by using creams etc.
Can someone recommend a supplier / product please?
Thanks
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Firstly thank you both for your time and concise explanations. The annoying thing is that I have looked closely at the g'box end closely and there is an angled converter and the space is very very tight indeed - probably impossible.
I thought the tunnel would have been much easier than described, but as I intend to replace the carpetting this winter - is it something a simple DiY'er could tackle (removing tunnel?). I do like the idea that the inner cable replacement might be the answer.
Is it true that the speedo and rev counter cables are identical?
Ta
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Easiest way to get to the g'box end please? Underneath or remove tunnel from inside? Ta
Is it simply a matter of undoing the 2 knurled knobs on the speedo casing behind the dashboard and then pulling said speedo out of dash?
The male end at the speedo connection appears to have 'disappeared'? Does that mean it is sheared off and residing inside the female end of the back of the speedo?
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OK question for you as we are on this theme. Is it better long term value for money to go directly to an alternator conversion, or medium term go for narrow belt conversion and then when the wife isn't looking go for the full monty with an alternator mod? (Price comparison for narrow belt Vs Alternator kit?)
Ta
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What a fiasco!! Nightmare - more like it. Never in all my life has so little been completed in so long a time frame.
Fine getting the b***ard off but a bi**h to get back on and leak proof to boot.
So - my question is: should I convert to an oil filter upgrade kit? Pro's and Con's please? Cost?
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Concur - you can guess why dynamo's were phased out by their 'brighter' cousins the alternator! You must have been driving around for a while - in the red (-ve charge). You were lucky you got her started again! Mind you a gentle bump start would have sufficed, I suspect if all else fails.
If the ammeter is ever in the -ve (except at tick over when it is inevitable with dynamo's) expect electrical trouble.
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I track race my M3. In this instance I use launch control and get about 5.5 seconds 0-60. However, my colleague has an M3 that doesnt have launch control, he revs the engine. drops the clutch and then plays the throttle to minimise tyre wear, result: 0-60: 5.3 seconds on the track timer. Problem for him is a new clutch about 3 times a year!
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You are very kind - thanks guys.
The bit about the bell housing front cover. Are you suggesting the seal can be accessed with the g/box in situ - surely not???
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You won't get a true 0-60 figure unless you are a wealthy man who is also a competent car mechanic, because true 0-60 figures rev to about 4-5000 revs drop the clutch and floor the throttle. The clutch usually burns out after a couple of attempts.
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At each 'donut' run a wire to either side of the donut (upstream and downstream). Do this for each donut (upper and lower). Both of these turn with the column. But the lower one is long enough to cater for maximum turn. At the lower end of the steering column when it enters the rack, earth this to the chassis for -ve earth cars or run a wire to the earthing terminal for +ve earth cars.
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I have the o/d switch on the lhs of the steering column! And in this position the o/d is DOWN!
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Mine went when I accidentally dropped the metal choke cable across the horn terminals - smoke and then the horns didnt work afterwards.
On the offside lower wing section inside the engine bay I have a loop of brown 'thick' wire and a very old fashioned (seemingly original) fuse holder (looks like an in line fuse holder). I eventually managed to twist it open and inside found that the 35amp fuze had blown. I changed it and voilla - the horns work! It seems for my car (CT9018) the fuse for the horns is separate from the main fuse box???
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Just bought a set of rear leaf springs from TRGB. They bow downwards when fitted. The old ones bowed upwards and were 47yrs old and well and trully "shot". Car sits properly now. Absolutely no issues from the garage that fitted them apart from poor quality anchor bolts through the front section. (Originals re-fitted).
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I wondered why the knob controlling hot air direction, moved the flap but not the air direction! Now I know! Must be something that works?
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Very many thanks for the warm welcome. You lot seem a great deal more 'accomodating' shall I say than a certain "M3" web site!
The leak is 100% gearbox oil - I remember the smell vividly from my Lotus days. You can detect the pungent odour of the sulphides in the oil dripping onto a red hot exhaust under the bell housing!! So I am guessing it is the input shaft seal (engine facing side).
Can I prize this off when I get to it, or does it need a dedicated tool?
Still need to know if there is such a thing as a smaller length wide belt available?
Q: Does the TR4 need a "T" connector for the gearbox end of the speedo cable? Or is it a straight connector? What is the length of the speedo cable for the TR4?
Q: The air duct at the base of the windscreen won't close properly. Is this because I might have the wrong seal in it (looks new)?
Any takers for the original pressed steel wheels and caps?
Thanks guys.
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Hello. I am new to the TR world. I have had Lotus/Stag/BMW/MGB/GT6/Austin Healey Sprite - in the past and currently drive an E46 M3 and 328i.
I recently bought a TR4 1964 which went out to California from new for 20yrs, came back in 1986. Stored for 5 yrs before being driven 500 miles in the last 19 yrs.Complete engine, gearbox and suspension rebuild. Bodywork rust free but tired. Interior to be revamped this winter.
I'd be most grateful if someone could help out with some questions I have?
1. I have a bad oil leak which appears to be from the Gearbox input seal (engine side of the gearbox). Assuming I get the G'box out from inside the car successfully, how difficult is it to remedy this fault please?
2. Does the (stock) thick fanbelt come only in one length. It appears that the current set up with the dynamo means it is at maximum extension and there is no more room for tightening the belt? Either I can purchase a slightly shorter belt, or purchase a longer extension arm for the dynamo?
3. Windows are not square once wound up. This leaves a large 1cm gap along the height of the rear edge of the door windows when wound fully up. How easy is it to re-align the windows squarely?
4. Immediately behind each of the seats - on the vertical side panels of the rear seat area (just ahead of the wheel arches), there appears to be the remains of 3 screw holes where once a bracket was fixed - what were these for?
5. Can I confirm that the oil used in the gearbox is the same as that used in the diff?
6. How hard is it to remove and refurbish the S.S. trims running the length of the front wings? How do I remove them?
7. Is it worth converting to a narrow (fan)belt system - as the mod is not cheap!
8. Does the steering column adjust in length? Can I push it a little closer to the dash?
I have just fitted brand new rear leaf springs. These are being re-introduced into the market place after the last company that makes them - went under. TRGB sell them. Be advised, the front anchor bolts are not hardened enough and the threads are too soft and strip. They also don'not protrude through the chassis enough to get sufficient nut grip onto them. I re-used the old ones. Other than that the springs are just fine. New springs: 40% increase in retail price: £110 each. (Since new company started making them).
I have a set of original steel wheels in sound condition together with their chrome hubs. What are these worth please?
Thanks in advance.
speedo cable
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Spoke to Race after you all gave your views and looked at their product. It is definitely the rolls royce of gearbox tunnels isn't it - wow! But it also comes at a wow price (tunnel / scre, fastener kit/vat/delivery: £200+)
If I had a concourse showmobile it's a no brainer, but at the end of the day all I want is a panel to cover the gearbox which hides under the carpet. Looks like TR London....I'll see what I encounter after ripping the old carpet out.
Thanks guys