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wayne taylor

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  • Location
    N Wales
  • Cars Owned:
    Aviation, Classic Cars, house building
  1. This was a short 'dip' into the Classic car world this time around. It lasted a year! I had a blast with my TR4 both on and off the road. Muchos appreciados to all on here who guided me in the right direction, offering sterling advice and support when I needed it. You are the salt of the earth and you experiences and expertise knows no limits. I hope to be back one day with another Triumph (my eye will always be on the TR3). Meanwhile I have a dream......! And that dream got a whole lot closer having recently sold the TR4......... Take good care of yourselves and happy fresh air and trouble free motoring to you all. Wayne
  2. Update. Ironically the first guy who "actually" turns up, tells me he likes it a lot...a helluva lot! Wants to come back and take a closer look and a run in it. Came back on Thursday and after a run out tells me he'll have it! Some negotiation (as expected) and voila he stumps up with a cash deposit. BACS transfer imminent......but it's not over until the "dimensionally challenged lady sings"!!! I'll revert i.d.c. Wish me luck. Brian C: I couldn't agree more - if this falls thru, I may go dosn that route as I have a 2nd vehicle currently for sale and am getting more hassle with that too!!! What happened to old fashioned down to earth bartering.........
  3. It's been a while since I sold a car and boy has it changed! The car went live about 10 days ago and since then I have had 4 enquiries, thus: 1st: SCAM. Guy e-mails me and says love your car - want it, tell me about it? (isnt that what the add is about???). He then comes back and says I'll pay for it via PayPal??? I say no you won't its either cash or BACS. He says "I work abroad and dont do either of those and my shipping agent and ..and...It was then I realised SCAM. 2nd: Some spotter decides to buy my car. Rings me up every day about something or other. Why is it this, why is it that. "I have heard rumours about these California imports"!!!!!. He then rings on day 5 and says take it to TRBitz for an inspection and if it passes, I'll buy it??? He then finally decides to visit me and look at the car, so I take time off work - and guess what he doesnt show up! I ring him after an hour and he is about 70 miles away shopping and tells me he'll be late!!! To blood* right he'll be late because the cars not available anymore?? 3rd: A woman rings up: "Love the car, I want it whats your lowest price". I e-mail back and say 'negotiable but my lowest is". She says strange - your car is on another part of Auto T rader and is being sold for less. Check out the link (and she gives me a link). I click on the link and lo and behold my virus monitor says: Web forgery, this is not a legitimate web site??? It looked and felt like an Auto Tra der site asking for p/w and username but wasn't actually the correct web site?? It's a mine field out there............................Is there anyone genuine out there anymore?
  4. Hi Pete, well apart from the fact that the car manual tells you to use ep90.... When I only just bought it, I had it serviced in a local garage, some bits and bobs needed doing. I asked them to check it over and source any leaks. Upon my return to collect the car, I asked what leaks were found and they said some from gearbox and they had topped up with engine oil. A debate followed and they were adamant it was fine. I quoted the handbook and previous experience, stating it should have been ep90. I could even smell the stuff previously before visiting them EP90 has a very distinctive smell, I think you'll agree. So I paid my bill and drove off. Within seconds of selecting o/d, it started to lurch into and out of overdrive of its own accord!! I turned around, went back to the mechanic and told him to drain the gearbox and replace all of the oil with ep90. After much moaning and shrugging of shoulders they did it, I drove off and the o/d is as crisp as ever! Definitely NO engine oil in the g'box I'm afraid, dont care what anyone says. If its in the manual - it's good enough for me.
  5. I certainly wouldn't use any modern oils in the TR! It is too thin for the tolerances found in a 60's machine. Your leak rate would double overnight! A good reliable run of the mill 20/50 for the engine and the same but EP90 for the box works wonders. Whatever you do, don't put engine oil in the overdrive gearbox.
  6. Just finished my alternatopr/narrow belt conversion: Swap Ammeter connections over. Original wiring can cope with about 30-40amps for a short burst but anything more and/or for longer will fry your wiring.[Example being a flat battery or starter motor jammed on causing huge current demand.]. Hence why an alternator with a huge rating isn't necessary. Downside of original ammeter is that it baerly registers any activity! Votlmeter could be used to replace ammeter or placed in line in the engine bay for instance! Original VS is fine - no damage and no excess readings to fuel/temp gauge. Modern or thyristor diode - will be damaged. Any auxilliary components such as radio etc need to be changed for -ve earth. Wipers OK. I have instructions and wiring diagrams and pics of control box terminals if needed. Use a heat shield to protect your new alternator rear end from frying. [The good news about a narrow belt conversion is that you can now change the fan belt at the side of the road faster than the car's 0-60 speed!!!]. Enjoy. WT
  7. The cap looks like a basic spring loaded rubber seal type - no double valve thingamy? My overflow tube goes to the bottom of the overflow bottle but no 45 degree cut off just flat.
  8. OK OK I'm sorry I mentioned Voyager!!! Meanwhile back on planet earth: I am struggling to bleed the bleeding cooling system in that everything appears normal except after the engine has cooled down, I take the rad cap off and find the water level about 1/4" below the lip - tick. The overflow bottle is half full - tick. I then squeeze the top hose and or the little bypass hose going into the stat housing and both appear empty or devoid of water coolant. Why isn't the cooling system completely full? Each time I disconnect the bypass top connection to the stat housing and gently fill it full of water until it comes out of the stat housing and then quickly fit it back onto its nozzle in the stat housing. But next run - the same happens again and the top hose/bypass hose seem empty of water. Have I missed something here as my experience with modern cars teaches me that as much of the cooling system should remain full of water. If you squeeze any hoses on modern cars they sound full and the water level in the rad changes correspondingly????
  9. Alan, how do you account for Voyager I then which launched in 1977 (36 yrs ago) and is destined to continue sending data back until 2020? Now thats reliability
  10. Alan: Looks like you are correct: The gauges are behaving themselves. Graham: Spoke to TRGB today about the elusive hole and they said because I had the bypass hose already fitted, the holed stat was surplus to requirement and the one without a hole in it would be fine??? I shall soon see........................................
  11. Badfrog: To be specific regarding your point about converting polarity: Are you saying the thyristor will/would fail if subject to a polarity failure during its operation? Obviously in my instance, I removed the battery, did the bsuiness with the alternator and then reconnected the battery the other way around. Would the thyristor be affected during this 'passive' phase of polarity change? The fuel/temp gauges behaved until I washed the engine bay. This afternoon after PJ told me about the regulator, I double checked it and then checked the feed back from the fuse box. It 'appears' there may have been a poor connection inside that very sophisticated ( ) fuse terminal and after some tightening up the gauges are working again. Buit Badfrog's got me wondering whether the gauges are now telling me the truth. Graham (Harris): If the new stat doesn't have a hole and pin in it, should I fit it? or ask for one similar to my original? OR - drill my own hole in it (without pin).
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