wayne taylor
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Posts posted by wayne taylor
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Now I have heard it all! Someone has made their own steering wheel???????
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Took my TR4 to my local garage because one of the mechanics "knew a thing or two" about old cars!!
When I came to collect it I asked if they had serviced it and checked the oil levels. He said the gearbox oil level was down and topped it up with 20/50. I told him that the haynes manual clearly stated ep90. He said 20/50 was fine.
I drove it out and got about a mile down the road when the overdrive started playing up...dragging into overdrive, slipping in and out at will.
Turned round went back and told them to drain the entire g'box and do as the manual stated.
Normal service resumed.
How on earth you can get away with a gearbox/overdrive on 20/50 defies logic???
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What do I need to order from these guys. The link you sent me, does it advertise the fact that for £27+ I will get the distributor and EI, or what. Can't see EI only. Do I need to concern myself about all the kits being -ve earth?
Thanks
WT
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Interesting - having wandered around some recent posts, I discovered that there appeared to be a unanimous view of going EI.
So the questions are:
Is it worth converting to EI?
What is the easiest to install and how much.
Does this devalue the vehicle in any way and shape?
regards,
wayne
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Went to halfords, bought some crinkle paint, followed said directions to the letter and voila: antique crinkle finish cowlings. Boootiful
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I have one which will become redundant when I replace it with a better one. There is nothing wrong with it structurally, the chrome is pitted but not beyond restoration. If you want it, PM me and I can part with it for a reasonable fee.
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Alan T: how long before a solution? Can you keep me posted please?
Thanks
wayne
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Thanks for your time gents. Looking at other people's TR4's makes one cringe doesn't it. Beauty personified.
Where can I get those window frame seals from?
I have a surrey top, that's why the hook appears redundant as the tiny canvas hood is self sufficient.
Thanks
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On the topic of seals:
I have a channel on either side of the windscreen running from top to bottom, which obviously is begging for a rubber weather seal of some kind. But there aren't any seals there (actually located in the channels). However I do have a fat heavy seal which runs alongside the vertical channel down the windscreen then down the door recess then along the sill then up the other side of the door recess.
This 'appears' to be "crowding" or encroaching the original metal windscreen channel. What's going on and do I still need those seals to fit into the channels?
{At the top and alongside each channel there is a hook of sorts. Whats this for???
ta lads.
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On their website I can't easily discern the difference between:
UC, UB and S50. Which is the best for cavities on my TR please?
ta
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Ok but taking this into account (and the MOT station rewired the spline areas and said the weld appeared to be a 'witness mark' for any movement of the shaft causing this small 'blob' to break away from the splined area?
What about the spline areas I mentioned earlier - are these reasonable?
ta
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Some advice please gents.
The steering column looks fully tightened up etc, but there is about 0.5 of spline showing on the top of the doughnut and about 0.25" on the underside of the doughnut. Is this too much exposed spline area?
In addition, the previous owner appears to have applied a dab of weld onto each of the pinched areas where the bolts are. Why is this?
Thanks in advance
W
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Don't forget, petrol is a carcinogenic and penetrates the skin very quickly. Vicious stuff to handle.
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Mmm. Sounds far too complicated. I was wondering would standard black piping work> where it is similar to the fitment around the edges of seats and trim etc. There is the hard main piping segment but also a thin strip coming off it which is normally sewn into the panel?
Right I found the proper name for what I am after, but is elusive here in the UK, or so it seems:
Black vinyl welting cord, is what I need! Anyone?
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pfenlon: Where the black top of the dashboard meets the white metal dashboard, there is normally an ugly marriage between the two materials. I noticed yours was beautifully finished with some kind of 'trim'. Could you tell me what you have used and where you got it please?
Very neat!
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I'm doing the bumpers and gauge bezels at the moment. They appear to have miniscule, barely visible pit marks of rust perhaps on them. After "x" years of exposure to the atmosphere. I thought that T cut would buff them out - no. Then I tried the chrome polish everyone raves about, but that is always (as ever) rubbish. I don't know what the fuss is all about with this cream polish, honestly. Waste of money.
Anything more of a rubbing compound than T cut appears to actually mark the chrome. I treid the old wives tale of using WD40 - waste of time. Someone even told me to use aluminium baking foil and water????? What? No joy.
Has anyone found anything that will do the job relatively easily? I know I can't banish the pitting but surely something out there will remove all signs of rust residue.
Thanks
WT
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On face value the local plumber might have small bore copper piping but it'll be 15mm normally. Are you saying plumbers have 6.5mm pipwork also???? (1/4").
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How much is a flaring tool? I fancy routing it behind the cylinder head between it and the bulkhead and then along the o/s of the engine block before doing a 180 into the carb inlet. Neat shorter distance? and subtle (not as " in your face" as the existing route. Any dissenters?
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Presumably I'll need a woozy maGizmo to knurl the ends to attach the threads etc??
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Copper (1/4") it is then. From pump to carbs. Hopefully I can get it locally (such a short length)? Love the idea of sand to stop it kinking, but why the additional inner cable from th speedo/tacho???.
Thanks guys, you're all a great library of advice, couldn't do it this easily without you, much appreciated.
In case I forget: HAPPY CHRISTMAS TO YOU ALL AND A VERY PEACEFUL AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR.
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How easy is it to re-route the 'copper' fuel pipeline from pump to carbs? Can I buy the stuff (where from) and can I (an amateur extraodinaire) bend it to the required profile easily/with difficulty?
Secondly, is it far easier to buy rubber fuel pipeline hose and do it?
thanks in advance
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PM me more details alan inc. your e-mail and specific cost.
thanks
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No it's not what you think!
I started stripping everything from the interior on Friday. What a delight, after 47 years she came apart exactly as expected. She gave up her secrets as if they were last year! Scary though - discovering the feeble brackets holding the dash in place. Worse still those holding the steering column rigid. OMG!
All the instruments came out with ease and came apart without any resistance. Seats / runners / switches and so it goes on. I sprayed the centre retaining black brackets with crinkle paint - god that stuff is good. Can't wait to put it all back now Oh dear - spoke too soon.
The chrome exposed screw on nuts that sit behind each of the controls on the plinth etc - where can I get replacements for those please guys. Some are beyond refurbishment.
regards
wt
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Mine has a small crack on one corner with a flap rising a little out of line. I'm in discussion with TRGB at the mo (when they get back to me) about covering it/replacing it. I've been told to steer clear of the repro ones??
Hypoy or Engine Oil in the gearbox?
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Alan T, my gearbox and overdrive is 500 miles old! completely refurbished and rebuilt unit. Diluting even a small amount of the ep90 was enough to disturb the operation of the overdrive. Roger has it right: These gearbox manufacturers know their stuff. You wouldn't mess with your main modern family car oils, why tamper with the older cars?
Secondly, I have a weep of gearbox oil (hence the reason for the top up (input shaft brg apparently)). If the gearbox had been full of 20/50, I'd probably have lost the lot by now!!!
Robaustinhealey: If you are uncertain about what you are doing or simply 'don't know'. Stick to the manufacturers recommended oil?????