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TR4A1965

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Posts posted by TR4A1965

  1. Stef, sorry to hear that.

     

    I took the brackets off my chassis and replaced them with the Rimmer part https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-155502

     

    @ Dave Lacey - I saw a picture where the bolts had pulled through the chassis. Attached.

     

    Also on the pic is a rough outline of a reinforcement plate I made using the old trailing arm brackets to strengthen it all up.Just guided off the sides of the old bracket and I had a perfect sized reinforcement plate.post-11421-0-88792800-1509086183_thumb.png

     

    Seems to have worked out well.

     

    Best.

     

    Paul.

     

     

  2. I have been through this drill and thanks to Roger it worked out.

     

    Roger is right when he says you have to ream the uprated ones.

     

    If you put them straight on they are a super tight fit and it really affects the steering. (I know as this happened to me)

     

    It became notchy and you have to point and shoot all of the time.

     

    The adjustable reamer I used was an 18.5mm to 19.5mm. (eBay £34)

     

    Roger advised to take out any flat spots not remove loads of material.

     

    It has worked out well.

     

    You can see this task in progress half way down this page: http://tr4a.weebly.com/living-with-the-tr4a---3---2017.html

     

    I have also taken out any movement in the column brackets as they had become worn and I did this by fitting nylon inserts after drilling out the bolt holes. This worked too.

     

    Lastly, I fitted a 'Fast Rack' and I have to say the steering is now super responsive. In fact, too much fun. You can literally throw it in to a bend and the steering lets you enjoy it to the full (And the suspension upgrades).

     

    Best

     

    Paul.

  3. Roger, I think you were lucky:-)

     

    I had wonky wipers and my issue was that a brand new wiper box failed. It was moving up and down and the wiper could not grip on the shaft.

     

    I bought another and it was all sorted.

     

     

    Fitting the box took a while though and I was glad it was passenger side as only the glove box had to come out.

     

    Had it been drivers side I would still be swearing??!?!?!?

     

    Best

     

    Paul.

     

    PS: Your tip on reaming the steering column bushes (mine are the nylon ones) has really worked out well. I am hopefully rebuilding the steering for the last time. The reamer I bought to do the job is adjustable from 18.5mm to 19.5mm and takes off the flat spots to stop the column being grabbed by the bushes. Cheers for that Roger. I owe you one. Best. Paul.

  4. Hi Stuart and Roger.

     

    Mike Papworth rebuilt the box so not sure what was or not replaced.

     

    I took it for a drive to get a better feel of the issue and it seems to be erratic.

     

    Over drive on revs drop.

     

    Over drive off revs come back up if you put in a bit more accelerator (Fairly instantly)

     

    Then, when driving along all of a sudden the revs shoot up as if the overdrive has delayed?????

     

    Then all normal.

     

    At around 60mph it feels a bit lumpy but either side of the fine?

     

    Best.

     

    Paul.

  5. Hi Stef,

     

    I got a socket on my dog bolt no problem. Although I have to say it looked like someone might have taken off the Dog bit already as there were marks on the bolt.

     

    Paul - no problems with slipping yet but thanks for the tip on the aerosol - you never know:-)

     

    My next big job on the car will to replace the steering rack for the 'Fast rack'. After spending some time with a chap who used to race a TR4A back in the day he says in makes all of the difference?????? A winter job for me.

  6. Narrow belt kit now fitted - see picture.

     

    Was it easy to do - no.

     

    Whole process took a day (8 hours).

     

    So it seems all good so far but I do need to take the TR for a good run to confirm.

     

    Getting the pulleys off was the toughest job.

     

    Here's the procedure I followed.

     

    Radiator has to come out. Front air cowl has to come out. Then you loosen off the dynamo.

     

    1: Remove the dynamo pulley with a hub puller and replace.
    2: Remove the water pump pulley with a hub puller
    3: To remove the lower pulley you have to take the fan off. Then you have to remove the dog bolt. It was called a dog bolt as it took the hand crank but on a TR4A this does not exist as it is just a bolt. Once the bolt is out you can then use a puller to remove the pulley. It is important to note Top Dead Centre on the pulley and replace with the new pulley and mark. accordingly. TDC is marked on the pulley by a drilled hole. It is mentioned n the workshop manual.

     

     

     

    I found some good advice on the TR3 forum on an older post repeated here below and bought a pipe wrench. I can't imagine trying to do this job without it.Great bit of kit.

     

     

    "Working from memory, yes, you do need to remove the fan. Mark it so that you can replace it in the same location.

    Then, you need a large pipe wrench to hold the fan extension hub and apply the torque to the dog bolt with a long extension.
    Sounds bizzare, but I was told by a long-time mechanic who worked on the originals that that's how they did it at the factory, and you can see the pipe wrench marks on the original extension.
    Anyway, I followed his advice, and it worked like charm.
    On reinstalling it, use the pipe wrench again to hold the extension as you tighten the dog bolt. It's important that the timing mark be correct when you reinstall the crankshaft pulley, so it would be useful to follow the shop manual or Haynes for the full procedure.
    It's not complicated, but the manual will point out the points to watch.
    Don't overtighten the stud holding the timing chain tensioner spring - it's very easy to strip. "
    post-11421-0-39421700-1504678339_thumb.jpg

     

     

  7.  

    Probably not ;-)

    - Check the big nut at the center of the steering wheel

    - Check if the aluminum steering column sheath is properly fastened with the brackets under the dash especially the half moon bracket with the felt under the facia.

    - Check in any play in the splines of the upper and lower steering column at the level of the doughnuts flexible coupling. They are notorious for not clamping tight enough.

    - Check in any play in the splines at the rack pinion level.

     

    +1

  8. Too funny. You have to raise the engine on a TR4A to change a fan belt. Not so with a narrow belt conversion. I'm learning the hard way.

     

    Also, traditions for me is about the aesthetic not the pain. Hard to separate the two?

     

    I am a narrow belt convert. I still respect other religions.

     

    Best.

     

    Paul.

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