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classic225

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Posts posted by classic225

  1. Hi,

    I know I need the old style bellows thermostat or block the by-pass line with a 3 mm drilled plug. I went for the plug with drilled hole, but I just want to understand why this needs to be done. Would cooling in the head be affected if you run a normal thermostat and no plug??

    Thanks,

    Yves

  2. Hello

     

     

    Brilliant! A man with the same attitude as me.

     

    I’m trying to do my build as cheap as possible just because, after being off the road for 40 odd years, I want to get it finished before I’m too old to drive it.

     

    I’m pleased to hear that you used a Spitfire petrol tank. I’ve done exactly the same. A perfect second hand example cost me £10. It’s a perfect fit width and height wise, just needs a slight re-route of the petrol outlet pipe.

     

    It may be down the scale on originality, but at least it’s on the road.

     

    I intend to paint my car myself as well.

    Not sure if I should use a 2 inch or a 4 inch brush though.

     

     

    Charlie D

    Hi Charlie,

    I used single stage paint and a good spray gun. After painting sand it down with 1200 grade and the polish the sh... out of it, looks really good. As for the originality and the spitfire gas tank....at least that is a conversion that you don't see. Fitting an alternator, electronic ignition, aluminum radiator or even comfortable seats are just as bad when it comes to keeping the car original, and most people out there have no issues with those.

    Yves

  3. Hi guys,

    Finally, seven years after buying the TR I have it on the road! My goal was to restore it on a budget, so I had to do everything myself, rebuild engine, box, brakes, rear diff., welding, painting and trim. I'm pretty happy with the result, I realize that a professional body guy would have done a better job, but at least I wont be scared of parking it in the wall-mart parking lot or take it on our gravel roads.

    I started with an ( almost) rust free example that I bought for 3500 $, and I managed to keep it under 15,000$. I tried to keep as much of the original parts as possible to keep cost in control. Engine rebuilt was the cheapest to do, interior and side screens the most expensive.

    I went non original for the gas tank as a new one was almost 500$, so I fitted a second hand spitfire one, maybe one day I'll replace that.

    So my point....you can still enjoy TR motoring on a budget! Wonder if I can do the same with my AH 100/6?

    post-11411-0-70601100-1497461919_thumb.jpg

  4. Hi guys,

    My car hasn't moved a meter after the restoration and I already see some oil drips from the steering box.....I did use a new olive but am afraid of wrecking the nut that holds the olive. I used SAE 90 oil, but would it make a difference if I used thin lithium grease?

    Grease would ,hopefully, not leak.

    Yves

  5. Hi,

    If you fit a fuel cut off system for security reasons , then ,I think, you're better of to fit a manual valve. All these electric aftermarket items are going to cause problems at one point in time, probably sometime at night, in the rain or snow and a long way from home!

    I used a 316SS needle valve. Fitted on the fuel line, close to the tank, and easy accessible.

    Yves

  6. Hi,

    Looking at my car, there seems to be a difference between front and rear track. There is a difference in track width, but I don't know how much. Did rear axles change over the years?? It is probably an optical illusion but the rear wheel track width seems to be a lot wider than the front.Anybody have the proper measurments?

    Thanks, Yves

  7. Hi guys,

    Build my wiring loom and now the time has come to hook everything up. The socket that holds the signal unit [ indicator) has lost its wires, so I have no idea what goes where. I know from the wiring diagram were the 3 wires should go, but as there are no wires I could do with some help.

    The socket has 3 connectors for the signal light unit, one is horizontal and two are vertical......(depends how you hold it...)

    so I'm trying to find out were the horizontal and two vertical connectors go to.

    Thanks,

    Yves

  8. Hi,

    I think there is better stuff on the market than spray-in protection for truck boxes. I used zinc coating, and then a thinner rubberized paint for protection, as most of our roads are gravel, the underside of our cars gets a beating almost everyday.

    Truck box protection does come loose after some time, again, everybody here drives a truck and if you really want to protect your box it needs to be sprayed by a professional with the proper equipment. The stuff you put on yourself is not as good a quality.

    Yves

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