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classic225

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Posts posted by classic225

  1. 2 hours ago, Charlie D said:

    +1

    I fitted a simple modern tap from the outlet on the tank (Note: I have a 3A with a Spitfire fuel tank,[ excellent condition, second hand for £15, and easy to fit.] so maybe the outlet is in a different place on your car.)

    I can get to it by dropping back the board in the boot the covers the tank and pushing my hand onto the top of the tank to reach the tap.

    An excellent “Anti theft device”.

     

    Charlie.

    Charlie,

    I also have a Spitfire tank, as my budget didn't allow a500$ new TR3 tank. Seems like a good idea to fit a fuel tap. Do you remember which one you used? Motorcycle?

    Thanks

  2. Hi Guys,

    Haven't found the time to swap out the gauge but whilst moving the car in the shop I noticed that pressure came up to 50 psi and stayed there on idle or throttle , so yup, gauge must be hooped. So what would be the reason? Dirt inside? Pressure parts getting "tired"? Would a clean inside fix this?

    Thanks,

    Yves

  3. Hi,

    Noticed that my oil pressure was higher than what is was before. Just driving around town I noticed that I was running at about 80 Psi at 3000 rpm, before today it was around 65 Psl for those revolutions. Idle crept up as well, before 25 Psi when hot , now 45 Psi. I didn't change anything on the TR, oil level is where it should be. It got me a bit worried and puzzled. Any ideas anyone?

    Thanks,

    Yves

  4. As we are all TR enthusiasts we should be happy with low prices, so we can buy more. One of the big issues, in my opinion, is that the classic car scene is and was invaded by people who were trying to make some cash, and then the real enthusiasts were hooped.

    Anyway, a car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it, if the buyer is happy to part with his cash then who are we to question this. Fact is that North America is still more down to earth when talking prices, just because most cars were send over here from new. 

    Personally, I have difficulties believing the prices that some TR's fetch in Europe, I would never be able to afford one if I lived in Britain.

    Yves

  5. Hi,

    Looks like my rear axle/differential oil seal ( to the prop shaft) has developed a substantial leak. Can I change this out with the axle in place? I do have a lift in my shop, so I can access easily from underneath. Looked in older posts but couldn't find any answers.

    Thanks,

    Yves 

  6. 18 hours ago, foster461 said:

    This question was discussed a while back Yves, take a look through this thread:

     

    Thanks,

    And yes, helpful information, think I'll be welding one on the radiator, angle iron, protector.

    Yves

  7. Hi,

    When I broke down some time ago with my seized distributor, my daughter pulled me to my shop. Doing this resulted it some minor body damage to the front valance under the bumper. The sling I used was in such an angle that it bend and twisted the valance. Would there be a way, or has somebody done this, to put a tow hook to the front. Advice and pics would be very welcome,

    Thanks,

    Yves

  8. Hi,

    Mentioned here a couple of weeks ago that my distributor seized up. Was finally able to get the shaft out of the bronze bushing, whilst doing so a number of little bonze pieces fell out. It appears that the top 1/2" of the bushing totally came to pieces. Don't know why this happened but lack of lubrication ( my bad) might be the reason.

    Yves  

  9. Thanks for the advice and info. 1st cylinder on TDC on compression stroke, center of the distributor drive gear aiming at the 1st cylinder pushrod tube and on that drive the key way for the oil pump drive on the left hand side ( away from the engine block). Think this should be in the ball park to get something....but no luck. So I agree that timing seems totally off, because I did the most horrible thing and sprayed some go juice in two cylinders, and yes, big bang in the exhaust....getting desperate here.

    Any other advice or am I missing something.

    Yves

  10. Hi,

    In my efforts to fix/replace my seized distributor I am running into some weird issues. Still had an aftermarket new distributor lying around, fitted it after I made sure that timing and all was set up properly. Engine turns over good when low tension wire ( -) is disconnected. When I hook that wire up it seems that my engine is seizing up, stopping very suddenly. Disconnect wire or take distributor out and everything turns around smoothly again.....could it be possible that this distributor is grounded differently than the car ( car is pos. ground)

    And what exactly is different on a distributor with different polarity? Any way of testing this?

    Thanks,

    Yves

  11. 27 minutes ago, boxofbits said:

    Problem is like this one, people get ham fisted and over-tighten the bolt, thinking the distributor’s going to fall out, sometimes to the point of crushing the distributor body! The gap should be almost parallel with just a pinch to stop the distributor moving.
     

    Kevin 

    I agree Kevin, I probably did over-tighten this, scared that the distributor would come undone.

    Yves

     

  12. Hi All,

    Thanks for the advice and info. And yes, it was probably operator error as I don't remember ever lubricating the distributor. Could it be that I had the plate/clamp that hold the distributor in position, upside down. I noticed that both sides are different, one side sits like a little bit higher, no idea what is up or sits on the pedestal.

    Bob, the car is a 3A. Tried to get the pin out but no success so far.

    Yves

  13. Went for an evening ride that ended on the side of the road. Lost all power and engine died. Found that the vacuum line to the manifold was sheared of at the distributor, Distributor was loose, pushed it back in place and tried to start the engine just to see the distributor turn around. Had my 16 year old daughter pull me home with her little suv......needed a couple of drinks afterwards...

    The distributor is totally seized up, no idea how this is possible, and it is the original one, not a cheap aftermarket product. Luckily when I had the engine turning over I did see the distributor drive turning, so hopefully no damage inside the engine.

    Anyone had this happen before? I'll try to dismantle it later this weekend and try to find the reason for seizing up.

    Yves

  14. Re-core anytime. I had mine re-cored for about 300 CAD. Lost the crank hole but was able to retain as much of the original parts as possible. Had 4 smaller studs welded on at the same time so I could fit an electric if needed. The alternative is aluminum, the cheapest material out there....stick with the original one. Never needed the electric fan even in our hot prairie summers. 

    Yves 

  15. Hi Dave,

    My shop is heated and insulated. Depends where you wanna go in BC ( why would you wanna go to BC, most people there don't like old cars). Here , and I'm 50 km from the BC border, we get to around -35 C to -40 C  in winter for a month or two but it is very dry, even the snow isn't wet. So as long as you stay away from the coast, you can just park it in any shop, heated or not.

    My shop is 72 by 32 but totally filled cars and other good car stuff, if not you could have parked it here.

    Yves

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