Percy TR6
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Posts posted by Percy TR6
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I have two tickets for entry to the Practical Classics Show at the NEC on Sunday April 13, together with two car park vouchers.
I can no longer make the event I wondered if anyone would be interested in using them? Free to a good home!
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Is just like to complain that there are far too many willing helpers living near Woking & I demand that some of you relocate to Edinburgh immediately!
:-)
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Stuart - I have a jubilee between the pre filter & tank. There when I bought the car. What is the issue with them?For any fuel low pressure rubber pipes you should use proper fuel pipe clips rather than jubilees.
Stuart.
On a related note, is there a trick to making the banjo coming out of the post pump filter leak proof? I've just changed the filter & am not convinced there isn't a faint leak at the exit joint. I've put copper washers either side of the banjo and nipped it as tight as I can. Is there something else I should be doing?
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Thanks Alan
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Posted twice for some reason - sorry!
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I'm about to repaint the rear valance (black).
I'm sure I've seen this discussed on the forum before but can't find the relevant posts, so apologies for asking again...however, I wanted confirmation as to whether it should be matt black or satin black?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
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Hi Steve,
much the same as you have stated, but after rubbing the rust down I applied Kurust to help kill it then the bondaprimer.
Hammerite isn;t what it use to be. I would top coat with wheel silver.
Roger
Absolutely - am touching up a few other bits of paint so will have the Kurust at the ready.
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I took the rear bumper off the car today and noticed that while the chrome still seems to be in good nick, there's a bit of surface rust on the inside.
I was wondering if there is any simple way to treat the inside in order to prolong the life of the chrome?
My initial thoughts are to clean off some of the rust then paint with bondarust primer & hammerite
Worth doing or not?
Steve
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So....new fuel filter arrived today.
It seems to have an M14 connection on the input and an M12 on the output....whereas my original filter was M14 at both ends.
Can anyone tell me where I can find an adaptor to connect my original M14 banjo bolt to the the M12 output??
Steve
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Currently got my fuel pump in bits awaiting new filters. Its a Bosch pump number 0 580 254 929, which I believe was supplied by Prestige some time ago and installed by a PO. Its listed on many sites at around £95.
The car is a 73 PI.
Hope this helps.
Steve
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After considering all the input above, and poking around in the boot, I have decided on a compromise.
- I will keep the existing pre-filter (I've cleaned it, the metal filter inside looks OK and it has worked well thus far), but will resite it for easier access in the future
- I will rotate the main filter/pump installation through 90 degrees
- I will replace the existing main filter (Bosch 0 450 905 005) with one of the recommended flea bay options (http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_1202wt_1190)
So, I now have two additional questions...
1) I would also like to install a relay - should this go in the boot near the pump or in the engine bay near the fuses? Or doesn't it matter?
2) I suspect I will need to extend the hose between the pre-filter and the pump - I'm assuming I can use any low pressure fuel hose for this purpose...is that correct?
Thanks once again for the input and assistance - in a few years time I might actually know something about this car maintenance lark!
Steve
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Thanks again for the input guys.
I had noticed that most pics showed a horizontal installation - this might be a good opportunity to change that.
How often would you change the filter & clean the pre?
Steve
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Thanks for the input guys. I will contact Prestige for spares.
Steve
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Morning all.
My ongoing journey of discovery with Percy has today led me to the boot - the fuel pump to be specific. Its all working fine (touch wood) but it struck me I don't know as much about it as I probably should. Its a Bosch type pump and I have attached a photo showing what I believe each part to be - confirmation of my labelling would be a good start.
More importantly, perhaps, I am looking for some advice on the filter or filters. How often should these be cleaned and / or replaced? I believe the pump has only been in there for less than 2 years but I've done nothing to it since acquiring the car. The glass filter (if that's what it is) appears to have a bit of debris inside so I think it may benefit from a clean.
Additional questions along the same lines are:
- can the filters be cleaned or must they be replaced?
- if cleaned - then how?
- if replaced - from where?
Apologies once again for the basic questions - I've tried finding out elsewhere on the web and via other fuel pump related posts but am no further forward.
Steve.
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I got a set from Machine Mart - with low clearance adapters. Not expensive & do the job.
Steve
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Stuart,
Its hard to know exactly which bit is out of alignment to be honest. Basically, with the door closed, when I wind up the window, the glass meets the P strip about an inch from the top & wont go any further. If I open the door, I can wind the window all the way up and close the door - the window is pushed sideways a little and creates a very good seal!
If I try to open the window with the door closed, it pulls he glass out of the bottom channel in the winder mechanism. It has been tight since I acquired the car but seems to have got worse recently.
The passenger side is quite tight, but opens and closes OK with a bit of effort.
The window slides seem OK and I don't think its the weather seal - not a lot of that and I have new ones waiting to go on. From what you've said above, I suspect my best initial action is to see if I can adjust the angle of the glass in the winder.
Steve
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Is there any mechanism to adjust the vertical angle of the windows? The drivers side has always been a bit tight towards the top & struggles to close the last cm or so. I can close it fully when the door is open but then it's very reluctant to wind down when the door is closed.
I'm wondering if there is adjustment in the window mechanism or whether I need to look at adjusting the door?
Steve
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All I did was replace the washers etc in the MC as I'd noticed a small leak by the servo.
Took the MC off again this afternoon & stripped the bits out again. I checked everything was the right way round & put it back together but used the original tipping valve. Now seems to be OK. Maybe I hadn't inserted the tipping valve properly or maybe the new one is duff or maybe none of the above & the brakes will be soft again tomorrow!!
For the moment, however, there's no obvious leak and the car stops on a sixpence! Happy days.
Steve
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Hi PeeJay
I appreciate your comment about the servo but what I am feeling is a rock solid pedal for a few seconds which then quickly softens and goes to the floor - without the engine running. When I drive it, the brakes slow the car if I step on them - but not a lot!
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Well, having read this I'm relieved to learn it's not just me having an issue the bleeding brakes.....sorry....with bleeding the brakes.
Bled them, rock solid. Quick drive, soft as.
And repeat.....
Tried the Stuart Method. Rock solid, then soft again. Gut is telling me to recheck the tipping valve so it's off with the MC again to see what
I can see.
Steve
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Thanks again for the input guys. In the end I used a combination of most suggestions.
I drove the front up into ramps which allowed me to get axle stands in easily. Then, I lifted the rear one side at a time to get stands at the back. Finally, jacking from the side I raised the car a little to allow me to raise the front stands slightly & slide the ramps out. Seemed to work OK - and I'm getting quite nifty at it having now had several attempts at getting all the air out of the brake lines! :-(
Steve
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A good chassis should be capable of being jacked up pretty much anywhere without any movement.
Stuart.
That gives me a bit of comfort Stuart!
Speedometer angle drive
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Andy,
I had similar problems last year but got the sheared part out as part of a gearbox removal and overhaul - not much help, I know!
However, the replacement angle drive only lasted a few miles and the cause was identified as a problem with the speedo which was pretty much seized. Might be worth checking that while you are at it. I had the speedo refurbished by John Ostick (jdo1.com) and its been fine since.
Steve