Percy TR6
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Posts posted by Percy TR6
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At the moment it's less about leverage and more about getting a spanner onto the nut securely. I can't seem to get the spanner to hold so am in danger of rounding the nuts when the spanner slips.
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
I have a 9/16 ring spanner but struggling to get enough purchase on it and don't want to bugger up the nuts.
Will keep trying.
Steve
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Hi all - in the process of taking the gearbox out as the O/D needs looking at and have hit my first hurdle.
Struggling to undo the bolts holding the propshaft to the gearbox.
Is there a trick to this or is it just brute force/heat/WD40 etc?
Thanks,
Steve
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Yes, Roger, it looks like I now a have a clear way forward. Thanks again for suggesting ORS and thanks to Andreas for helping to steer me in the right direction and rule out the clutch itself.
Steve
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A tired chassis can flex on bumps, seen in the gap between trailing edge of the door and the B-post.
That doesn't sound good Peter.....but if that's my problem, would leaning on the door make it go away?
Steve
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Hi Steve,
Check the door lock assy on the 'B' post that it is high enough.
Roger
Done Roger - high & tight. Can't find anything that would cause a knocking noise.
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OK - don't all laugh...but...
I was out in the car today and the knocking started as I went down a typical Edinburgh road. I sighed a heavy sigh and leant against the drivers door. The knocking stopped.
I ended up driving the same stretch of road 3 times, windows up, windows down, windows neither up nor down.
If I lean against the door, no knocking. If I don't, knocking!!
The door seems solid when it's closed - no play - and the window mechanism too. This is going to drive me crazy!!
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I can confirm there is no apparent slippage if I depress the clutch slightly when accelerating, so I guess we are looking at the overdrive. I will investigate further with an OD specialist and see what I can find out.
*** UPDATE ***
Just spoken to ORS in Sheffield as suggested by Roger (thanks Roger) and they said that based on the description of events and the fact OD is not engaged when it happens, the only thing it can be is the Uni Directional Clutch in the OD unit.
The fix is to remove the gearbox, remove the overdrive & send it off to them for refurb. Ho hum.
Steve
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Its a long way to reach that bearing so I would suggest to make test
to verify who is the culprit. Put the foot a little bit on the clutch pedal.
If the issue happens earlier its the clutch, if its the same feeling when
the engine spins its the OD.
Andreas,
Thanks for your reply, however, I am not sure I understand the test you are proposing.
Are you suggesting the following?
Driving in 2nd (for example), press the clutch slightly and accelerate. If I notice slippage when the pedal is only slightly depressed, its the clutch
Thanks,
Steve
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Steve,is the Car in Overdrive when this is happening?
Niall,
No the car is not in overdrive and it seems to most commonly happen when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. My OD is only operational on 3rd & 4th. I have always assumed clutch slip would manifest in 4th first, hence my confusion. Also, the feeling is more like the clutch hasn't quite engaged rather than permanent "slip". As I said, if I take my foot off the gas for a second or two till the revs die down, I can then pull away normally. Also, if I change gears slowly and accelerate with a light foot, (in the manner in which my father taught me!) there is no problem!!
Steve
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I am experiencing an occassional issue when accelerating through the gears. It presents as what I would expect to experience with a slipping clutch - I accelerate and the revs go up but the car doesn't shoot forward!
If I take my foot of the gas, let the revs die and pull away more gently, all is good. It only happens under hard acceleration.
A mate has told me that he had a similar problem years ago with a Volvo and it turned out to be something to do with the overdrive rather than the gearbox/clutch (the Volvo used the same J-type O/D). Sadly, he can't remember the detail!
Has anyone else heard of this? Should I be looking at the O/D??
Steve
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I don't have an answer but I do have the same problem - seems to be mainly the drivers side for me. Tried most of the things you have but no success.
Steve
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Lots of useful input as usual - thanks guys.
I'll get to it as soon as I can.
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Yes - def not from the rocker cover. Steam cleaned everything & took her for a run. Clearly from the gasket area. Not a huge amount but it is there.
Puzzled by the oil getting out of the filler cap - normal? Tired cap? Symptom of something serious? Oil pressure generally seems good and as one would expect.
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I have noticed a slight oil leak (more a weep really) on the plug side of the cylinder head. It appears to be coming from the joint between the head and the block around plug 3.
I have also noticed oil is finding its way out of the filler cap and onto the racket cover (again not a lot)
There is no milkiness to the oil, running temps seem fine and performance is good.
I'm guessing the cylinder head gasket is beginning to fail but wondered if the symptoms suggest anything else?
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Just to (hopefully) close this off.
I've driven the car several times since the last post - a mix of town driving & longer runs (including a 260 mile round trip a day or two ago). So far, the clutch is behaving perfectly - better than it has for a long time - so it would seem that rebleeding it has done the trick - famous last words, I know!
Thanks again to everyone who offered input.
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Hi all - thanks for the replies and sorry not to have responded sooner.
Both the master & slave are relatively new and there is no play in the push rod when the pedal is depressed.
Having re-bled the system a few days ago (27th), I test drove the car and all seemed good. Since then I haven't had a chance to take it for a spin. However, I did start it today and it engaged first and reverse without a problem. I'm hoping to get it out on the road over the course of this week to see how it behaves on a longer run and will report back thereafter.
Steve
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Tom - yes ....bleed nipple at the top.
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Some time ago (a couple of years) I had a garage do some work on the car which required the engine & gearbox to be removed. Things have never been the same since. I won't go into all the detail but recently I had a go at things myself as I could no longer engage first or reverse. I did a few bits and pieces (including putting the alignment bolts in around the gearbox - the garage obviously omitted them! - renewed the clutch pedal bushes, put an adjustable push rod on the clutch master, bled the system etc).
Subsequently, the car drove like a dream. We had a 150 mile trouble free run, gears selecting nicely throughout and a couple of other shorter runs since then with nothing negative to report.
A week ago, I took the car out again and within minutes, first was becoming difficult to engage. I pushed on carefully, avoiding full stops where possible and slipping into first before stopping if needed. 15 minutes later, everything went back to normal - first slipping in with no effort at all and the drive home was great.
Two days later I started the car again and no matter how I tried I could not engage reverse or first - putting the car into reverse and turning the engine over resulted in rearward lurches.
With a heavy heart I decided there must be something significant going on and having a bit of time today I decided to start methodically working through the possible problems, starting with the easy ones first. Top of the list was bleeding the system again. Having done so, the gears are now fully functional once again - possibly smoother than they've ever been!!
I really don't understand. Surely if there was air in the system I would have problems throughout? Can anyone offer an explanation?
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Neil - see where you are coming from. I only ran the engine for 5 mins or so today & the rad was warming up at the bottom.
The stat for the fan is located on the pipe from the bottom of the rad and until yesterday the fan was cutting in when the gauge showed higher than normal, so I think all is OK with that side of things.
I'll get a new sender & see where it takes me.
Thanks for your input.
Steve
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Neil - the bottom of the rad is cooler than the top...
Stay heats up first, then top hose, then top of rad, then eventually pipe from rad to pump warms a bit.
I drained the rad & flushed with cold water, then rad flush then more water
Why do you ask??
Conrad - are you getting your senders from the same source? Is there a recommended supplier?
Steve
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Took the car for a 140 mile spin a week or so ago and it ran like a dream.
Took it out yesterday and while it was still running fine, I noticed that the temperature gauge was up at the 4th white mark before I'd reached the end of the street.
Today, I flushed the cooling system - was due anyway - and confirmed that water is flowing as I'd expect. I also ran the engine and noticed that the various pipes and thermostat seem to get warm as one would expect.
I disconnected the gauge from the temp sender and it dropped to zero.
I also checked the gauge with the ignition on, engine cold, and it rose - even though the engine wasn't running.
The fuel gauge seems to be operating normally - I filled the tank prior to the last long run and it has dropped as expected.
I noticed that there is a bit of something that looks like limescale around the temp sender joint - don't know how relevant that is.
Given the above, any suggestions as the where to begin? My thoughts are that the temp sender is failing - is that a good place to start?
Thanks,
Steve
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Thanks for that insight Stan - I'll give it a go as soon as I can get back into the garage.
Steve
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Thanks for the input guys.
ALANR: the slave is on the correct side of the bracket; the bleed nipple is at the top; I don't have a return spring fitted. The adjustable rod is at the master cylinder to take up the slack caused by wear in the hole in the clutch pedal.
Given the comments so far, it would seem all to point at bits that live behind the bell housing, so it will be off with gearbox when the weather warms up a bit I guess.
Steve
Gearbox & Propshaft
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Percy TR6
Well, after multiple applications of WD40 over the last 2 days and an extra shredded wheat at breakfast this morning, I can happily announce that movement has occurred! Happy days.
Two ring spanners; one on the nut, one on the bolt head. Full body weight and max effort!
Many thanks again for the input guys......if nothing else it gave me the confidence and determination to keep going.
Nest question.......
I was about the mark both sides so I can reconnect in the same place but noticed there is already a mark on both sides - unfortunately they are misaligned by 180 degrees.
Do I assume a PO reconnected in the wrong position and re-mate the marks that are there or do I make my own marks on the basis that the car seems to have been working fine??