Percy TR6
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Posts posted by Percy TR6
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Here's my healthy differential internals- after cleaning out of lot of gook.
To remove the rear diff cover- while it is still in place- undo the (8) 1/2 inch head bolts, have a drain pan ready to catch 2.5 Imperial Pints (3 Quarts US).
Turn a rear wheel while watching the gears turn- it will be obvious if any are chipped, a hunk of metal will fall out.
This will not be a wasted effort- chances are the gear oil needs to be replenished with fresh oil.
I used double gaskets & high temp sealer when refitting the cover. BTW, the cover fits on two ways- only one is correct. Re-torque 26-28 lb ft.
While in and about, make sure the air vent pin on top right side is free to move. You can just see it in the silver cover pic.
Cheers
Walt
Sapphire72 - I would love to have a look at the cogs in situ, but although I think I could probably get to all 8 bolts, I'm not sure how I'd actually get the cover off without removing the exhaust and removing all the mounting bolts. Am I missing something??
This link may contain information helpful to the diagnosis...or just add to the confusion.
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/03/30/quick-guide-to-diagnosing-differential-driveline-noises/
Poolboy - thanks for this. I think it may have helped.
I have finally managed to brave the sub zero temperatures of the garage, lift the car, remove the wheels and have another look. I took the brake drums off to make sure they were not interfering and when turning the wheels I can hear a distinct clunk clunk clunk. Not totally sure yet whether that's the hubs or the diff but as it sounds pretty much the same from both sides I am going to assume its the diff. I've attached a couple of videos in which the noise can be heard.
(Edited as previous links didn't work - hope these do!)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v5TKOyhUm8SqhSZe2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Hyv2YbX435kYQP7V2
I guess the next thing to do is remove the hubs and see if the noise is still there.....
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I dont have a drain plug unfortunately so will have to remove and dismantle to find out if the diff is damaged.
As for the UJs, I have greased them every year and it looks like the grease is going in. In any event, I would describe the noise Im hearing as more than a click, but you never know.
Im wondering if it would be possible to remove the hubs and run the car to see if the noise is still there (ie the diff rather than axle related) or would that be a silly thing to do?
Steve
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Checked this to the extent I can and am confident thats not the problem. Also, Ive experienced exhaust knock on the car on the past and it was a very different tone.
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Have you checked the exhaust isn't knocking on the chassis under load.
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Kev - what you are describing seems to be the opposite of my experience - noise under load which disappears when I lift off.
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Hi Steve.
Last year I lost a few teeth, well a couple of big chunks from the crown wheel and the pinion coming back from France. Under any sort of load/acceleration it was fairly quite but as soon as I lifted at all the noise was pretty graunchy.
Hope this helps in some small way.
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Thanks Rob - older posts have suggested that could be the culprit too. It seems that the replacement cost is the same whether its the hubs or the diff but I don't want to replace one and discover it was the other. Removal doesn't seem to difficult but I am not sure I would be able to open the diff to look for broken teeth.
I will check the hub nuts too though.
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Hi All,
I am looking for some assistance with rear end noise. While I appreciate it is a common issue in older models, its now happening on the TR6 too.
When driving yesterday there was a noise from the back end of the car which grew louder fairly quickly. It gets worse as I move up through the gears. I have been under the car today and cannot find any loose bolts or see anything obvious which may be catching as the prop shaft/axle turns.
There is a little bit of play on the nearside rear wheel if I rock it from top to bottom but I wouldn't say its a huge amount. The offside is solid. I have recently serviced the car and greased the UJs as I have done every other year.
I would describe the sound as a "knock knock knock" as if something rotating is hitting a static object as it rotates. It disappears when I remove my foot from the throttle, which may suggest the diff but I really only have to rest my foot on the throttle (rather than actually accelerate) for it to return. I put the car on axle stands and engaged 4th to see if I could locate the source - but can't be sure - though it didn't sound as bad in this set up. However, that may just be because the car is amplifying the sound into the cabin.
Reading through other posts on the forum I can only assume its the diff or the rear hubs - but I am not sure how to narrow it down beyond that. We're off on a 1700 mile trip in a few weeks, so I really need to get this fixed.
As ever, any and all suggestions gratefully received.
Thanks.
Steve
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Fellow 6ers,
I have posted the following in the Members Chat area but thought I would reach out directly to you too - I hope you don't mind?
In early April, I will be driving my TR6 (PUR510L) non-stop (with a co-driver) from Edinburgh to Lands End to John O’Groats and back to Edinburgh) to support four local charities:
· Rock Trust, who provide support to homeless young people between the ages of 16 and 25 ( http://www.rocktrust.org/ )
· Sure Start who support children (pre-birth to 11) within disadvantaged families ( http://www.midlothiansurestart.org.uk/ )
· the Rosebery Centre, a day care facility for those suffering from dementia ( http://www.roseberycentre.org.uk/ ) and
· Special Olympics Lothian, who support athletes with learning disabilities ( http://www.lothianspecialolympics.org/ )
It’s around 1700 miles and we hope to complete it in about 33 hours of driving time. We will be stopping only for fuel (often), to swap drivers (occasionally) and for traffic jams (all to often) but the clock will stop whenever we have to stop.
However, I have no shame and am reaching out to anyone and everyone with requests for sponsorship, and I wondered if other forum members might be interested in putting their support behind us.
I have set up a page on JustGiving (see below) and would be delighted to receive any donations, be they large or small.
The link to the page is:
https://www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/steve-ritchie?utm_id=2&utm_term=77ae6mqdw
Many thanks in advance.
Steve
(Percy TR6)
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Given all the replies to date have been in favour of black sills, I shall follow suit (the fact that this is also my preferred option is a mere coincidence!)
Black sills and chrome strips will be the order of the day.
Thanks for the input and a merry Christmas to one and all.
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Ive seen a wide range of opinions on this subject but as I am soon about to tackle the sills on my own car, I thought Id see if I could get a definitive answer.
Many people have said that the sills on the 6 should be black stone chip - for astethics and because thats how they came out of the factory.
However, the majority of recent photos Ive seen on tinterweb and even on TRaction seem to show cars with sills painted in body colour.
Others have suggested stone chip over painted with body colour.
So....whats the general consensus?
Merry Christmas!
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I had this problem a couple of weeks ago and found that the root cause was the bulb holder itself. The copper strip that goes down the inside of the holder was making poor contact with the silver coloured metal that form the spring clips that in turn provide the earth path to chassis. Ultimately, it became permanently open circuit, as confirmed by using a multimeter. I presume it was dissimilar metal corrosion that caused the problem but await any comment from those who know about such things.
Replacing the holder fixed the problem.
There should be a photo here to illustrate the problem area.
Good shout Alfrom......I have just swapped the reversing light with the indicator - given the bulb holders are identical - and I now have a working indicator again, which would suggest the bulb holder is at fault. Of course, as these things are never straightforward.....both reversing lights are also working! As my American friends would say, "go figure!"
I will leave them in their new positions for a while and monitor the situation. If the indicator goes again then perhaps it will point towards a bad earth or some other loose connection.
As for the earth that was connected to the rear lamp cluster....I'll leave it hanging free and see if I can work out where the other end connects to.
Every days's a school day.
Steve
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For quite a while Ive had an intermittent problem with the near side rear indicator.
I noticed it wasnt working, though all others were. I suspect an earth issue & initially tried resetting the bulb holder (ie wiggling it a bit) and the indicator worked - for while. As the problem kept returning after an indeterminate amount of time, my next approach was to clean the bulb holder and the light fitting with a bit of emery paper. Again, positive results for a while...but not permanent.
Next step was to look at earth connections. I discovered the earth connection on the light unit next to the indicator bulb was loose - in fact it came off altogether! However, when disconnected, it made no difference to the problem! When I fiddled with the bulb holder, the indicator worked for a while, just as before.
Disconnecting that earth seems to have made no difference at all - all the other lights work, car runs fine...
So, I am at a loss. Am I looking in the wrong place? What am I missing?
Any help would be appreciated.
Steve -
And another +1 for JDO
Mine was jumping over 50. Replace angle drive & cable but new cable snapped. Had the speedo cleaned & recalibrated by John & all good.
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I think it is determined to make me learn all about it - one way or another!
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Peter - thanks for your reply.
The horn has worked since I got the car about 5 years ago so I can't blame a PO I'm afraid! However, you were on the right track I think.
After a bit of digging around today I suspected the earth connection to the horn so replaced that connection and all now seems well again.
Here's to the next little surprise! ????
Steve
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Noticed the other day that one horn wasn't working. Had a little poke around and discovered what appeared to be a loose connection on one of the terminals, I tightened it up and all seemed well.
However....I noticed today that the horns work fine UNTIL the key is turned in the ignition!! Whatever position I turn the ignition to other than off and the horns stop working.
Before I start pull my hair and a lot of wires out I wondered if anyone has seen this before and could throw me a bone??
Steve
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Struggling to find anyone locally who could look at a repair I've replaced it with this:
Appears to be exactly the same as the one I took off, went on without issue and the ignition light now going out!
The company said they hadn't sold one for a TR6 before so if it didn't fit they would take it back at no cost to me.
First proper test run this morning while the sun is shining. Happy days.
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The Brown Book suggests a Lucas 15 ACR (28A) was standard with an 18 (43A) or 17 (36A) for later US models.
I will see if I can work out what my current one is when I take it off (it doesn't look very old...) but is it safe to assume 36A or 43A would be a safe and easy option?
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Thanks Snowy...did the diodes fix it?
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Thanks Richard. I'll look into that.
Steve
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Hi all.
When I started the car this evening, I noticed the ignition light didn't go out - it dimmed, but still a faint glimmer. Also, volt meter was hovering around 13v instead of the usual 14v+
I drove for a mile of so without change so stopped to check connections at the alternator and battery. All seemed Ok and no squeals so assume fan belt not slipping.
Restarted and heard a gentle whine which appeared to be coming from alternator. Volt meter now down to 12v. Connected multimeter across battery....11.8v at tickover but only going to 12.5v when revving.
Assume altimeter on the way out but would appreciate any other thoughts/comments before I replace.
Thanks, Steve
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Niall - appreciate the heads-up.
I have no intention of trying to service the O/D but from what I have read I was under the impression I will be able to remove it and send it off to be reconditioned.
I have studied the Brown Book with regard to reinstallation but if it proves too difficult I have a local garage with the necessary experience.
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On closer inspection, as well as unaligned scribe marks, I have found two aligned dot punch marks, so I will go with them.
Next question.......Could someone clarify where I disconnect the overdrive from the gearbox? I assume it is by the nuts towards the rear of the car and not the bolts further forward (where there appears to be a thin gasket)? I've attached a link to photo of a gearbox for clarification (at least I think I have!)
https://goo.gl/photos/YcUKTC5L8ajkvpU78
Steve
Rear End Noise
in TR6 Forum
Posted