Percy TR6
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Posts posted by Percy TR6
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Sorted! Thanks for the help
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Thank you RobH - will take a look now
It is on both dipped and high so will start with the Earth.
Steve
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Hi All.... been a while since I was on here but need some advice on what I am sure is an easy question (if you know the answer!)
My passenger side headlight went really dim a couple of days ago. I assumed the bulb was on its way out so replaced it - but the replacement(s) are just as dim.
Given that, my next assumption is that it must be a loose/poor connection somewhere.
Does that sound reasonable? If not, can anyone shed any light on the subject?
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Worked a treat. Now on to the other side.
Every days a school day.
Thanks again guys.
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Thanks for the prompt replies. Now to try and get the half installed nyloc off!
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Help!
ive removed the front offside ball joint as the gaiter was perished and the joint itself wasn’t in great nick
Attempting to install the replacement which I thought should be easy enough but I can’t tighten the nyloc which holds the ball joint to the vertical link - the joint itself turns as well as the nut!
I had assumed the fitting was tapered and would self grip - an I doing something wrong or could I have been sent the wrong part? I bought it from ANG classic car parts and it claims to be for a TR6 - part number GSJ131 (same as Rimmers)
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Steve
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Final update... the screws which arrived from Rimmers are indeed M4, as is the new locking peg which they also supplied.
However, the original locking peg is definately not M4 - Perhaps M3 if metric but more than likely UNC as previously suggested.
Thanks again for all the thoughts and input along the way.
Steve
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I’ve removed the screw from the other side and I would guess it is 3mm not 4mm if metric. However, as I have been unable to remove the sheared screw from the pin/lock I have ordered a replacement pin & 2 screws from Rimmers.
Thanks for all the input.
Steve
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22 minutes ago, Percy TR6 said:
Tried M4 but no joy ☹️
However, further examination has shown the original screw/bolt has sheared inside the latch mechanism so will try the other side and see how that goes.
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Tried M4 but no joy ☹️
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One of the screws that connect the handle of the roof locking mechanism to the "lock" has rattled free and is now lost (1973 TR6)
According to Rimmers its a metric screw and I could order one from them but given it will cost several times more for postage than the price of the screw itself, and will take 3 days to get to me, I thought I might just go buy one locally. However, I can't find anything to tell me what size it is.
Does anyone know?
Thanks,
Steve
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My OD (J type) shares a fuse with the indicators and the fuel gauge. An exposed wire on the indicator mechanism within the steering column was causing a short and blowing the fuse - which meant I lost fuel gauge, indicators and OD - so a check of the fuses would be my first point of call.
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Just a quick update on this...have replaced the diff & rear hubs, last week we drove the car from Edinburgj to Lands End to John O’Groats and back to Edinburgh without a hitch.
The journey was 1659 miles and took us 33 hours door to door, with just under 30 of those actually driving.
The only casualty was a cracked headlight lens.
A real testament to these old cars.
Steve
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Well, Ive drained the tank & forced out as much as I can with compressed air, stuck a little unleaded in & drained that too. Cleaned the pre-filter and filled up with unleaded.
Couple of puffs of smoke in the first half mile but nothing thereafter, so hopefully disaster averted.
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Having finally got the car back up and running (new diff, new rear hubs) I was delighted to wake up to a glorious spring morning - the perfect opportunity to fill the tank and take the car for a good run. As I imagined the wonderful roads I could take, I realised I had just filled up with diesel. I didn't start the car and got a recovery truck to take us home when I now plan to drain the tank.
Having done so, my plan will be to fill it with petrol, not letting it drop below half full for a few tankfuls in order to dilute any residue as much as possible. However, I was wondering if anyone would suggest any other steps to clean the tank etc?
Steve
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Roger - as long as they don't make the same noise, I'll be happy!!!
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Hi Steve,
what/which hubs are you getting? - I hope not rebuilt ones.
Roger
Looking at new ones from Moss, Roger
Wow!
How on earth does a diff get in that state ( if not racing) ??
Steve
I have no idea how old the diff is - its definitely not original - but I'm guessing I missed the early signs and one thing led to another. As GT6M pointed out, it could have been a lot worse if some of the sizeable chunks of metal floating around in there got caught up where they shouldn't have been. Trying hard to count my blessings!
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New (recon) diff now received, installed & fed with oil
Started car and all sounded healthy.
Reconnected the hubs, started up again and back to sounding rough - not nearly as bad as before but the hubs are notchy when rotated by hand.
Now removing the hubs and ordering replacements ...hopefully that will be the end of it.
Hey Ho.
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Roger - you’re right. It is a result in so far as I now know for sure i need a new diff. If I’d replaced the bearings and given it another go I might have ended up with the sort of experience GT6M has outlined - at midnight on Spaghetti Junction.
Everything for a reason.
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Having opened up the diff, I am now even more confused. It appears to be in perfect health......assuming you ignore the 12 missing teeth!!!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mj4rjWC57C20GHtc2
Time to order a new one...... Thanks for all the input. Every day is a school day.
Steve
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Steve, with the exhaust out of the way, you could remove the side axle stubs with the diff still attached.
Then send them to a recommended repair facility.
It's a bit of a pain to lower & replace the entire diff, but it is a good opportunity to check for a crack in the right-front mount- at base of pin/stud, or damaged mount, itself.
And, replace the hanger bushings. And, hypoid gear oil. And, grease the axle splines and the universal joints.
The diff is now off and will be opened up as soon as I can get a chance. I’ve been in touch with GT6M and have a long list of things to look at. Many thanks to everyone for the input. Will update on progress & outcomes soon.
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DRD - I did see it but its done 60K so theres no guarantee it will be much better than mine.
Finally got mine off the car - hardest job was getting the exhaust off! - so will take off the cover and check for internal damage. If none, Ill see if I can find someone to do the bearings. Failing that, it will be a full replacement.
Ive got a 1700 mile non stop drive (charity event) to do at the start of April so I need to put this to bed ASAP.
Steve
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Replace bearing and seal on both sides. Find someone with experience, removing the bearing is tricky.
Finding someone local to Edinburgh that can do that will be a challenge and a half so I think it will be a new diff unfortunately.
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Having disconnected the hubs I have discovered:
a) no noise when rotating the prop shaft by hand
b ) very little noise when rotating the drivers side of the diff
c) a definite clunk clunk when rotating the passenger side
This is even more apparent after I started the car and engaged 4th gear.....I'm no expert but this does not sound like the song of a happy diff. I guess its time to break into the piggy bank and head to the shops....
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hJ2WmFwjlnbL01P92 (Edited as previous link didn't work)
If anyone knows better, please shout!
Steve
Ignition Switch
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi All... following a nice day out in the car last week, I stopped for a coffee and when I came back out it wouldn’t start. The key was simply turning in the ignition switch!
Looking at the back of the switch I could see that the brown wire had melted the insulation at the spade connector. This must have been an issue for a while as the innards of the switch had perished too!
New switch ordered but 2 questions:
1) What would cause this to overheat? A bad connection I assume but is it safe to assume that was down to a failing switch or problem elsewhere?
2) In replacing the spade connector on the brown wire, what should it be rated at? I’m assuming 30A - though I am not sure I know why I think that.
Cheers,
Steve