AlanG
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Posts posted by AlanG
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I got a replacement from Revingtons. Don't think anyone else had them at the time.
Alan.
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Dear All,
This fault s/b be high lighted back to Moss and the TR QA Team otherwise it will not be rectified?
Remember Moss has no Goods Inwards Inspection, US the customer does that for them!!!!!!! When we get parts that don't fit or work!
Regards,
Bruce.
Should be the manufacturer no one else.
Alan.
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Try asking your local paint shop. Mine has some under the counter paint stripper which is very potent but probably also outside of current health and safety regs. if you know what I mean.
Alan.
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Mine makes me sit in the car and do the brake testing because he says he's to tall to get in. He also understands the fly off hand brake
Alan.
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My guess is it's the tyres. I had a BMW when they first started fitting runflats. This tracked along road imperfections and white lines as exactly as you describe. Old and hard tyres could be giving the same effect. It was horrible to drive. Despite BMW saying it couldn't be the tyres I eventually changed to non runflats and the tracking was completely cured.
Alan.
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I had a Mk1 with the lower outer headlights back in the 70's. Spares were expensive then but at least you could pop into town too the Lancia main dealers to get them. Don't remember it being effected by the rust worm unlike later models. Great little engine, a very narrow V four DOHC. Swapped it for a 1.8 Morris Marina Coupe
Alan.
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O/D came off and back on without any problems. A lot easier than having to remove the g/b. Please note that this a J Type. I think doing the same with an A type would be a lot more difficult. Thanks for all the posts.
Alan.
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Anyone know what varnish &/or finish these various companies use to make the veneers look nice and keep the weather out? I've heard if DIYers using Rustin's Plasticote.
Thanks, Richard
I used Plasticote. At first it looked great but then it seemed as if there was a reaction of sort and the surface turned a bit rough to the touch. Thought I had done everything as per the instructions except I didn't use a wood sealer first. Don't know if this was definitely the cause.
Alan.
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That's my plan. I'll post the success or failure.
Alan.
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The J type is a lot easier to assemble to the gearbox not having the A type springs. My main concern is if there is enough clearance at the rear to be able to withdraw it. Think I'll need about 7". Looks doable so I'll give it a try. Will remove gearbox if not. Just that it will save a lot of work if possible.
Alan.
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Does anyone know if it's possible to remove the O/D without removing the gearbox? This is on a 4A with a TR6 gearbox.
Alan.
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Credit where credit due, apart from the Moss bracket needing the chassis attachments relieving a small amount (on some chassis it might not be required) the fit was excellent. Clearances are very tight and it must have taken a fair been of effort to achieve them.
Alan.
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Thanks for the replies. Bit the bullet this afternoon and ground about 1/8" of each gearbox attachment. Problem sorted although I agree with Tony, you would think that it would be easy for the manufacturer to get it right.
Alan.
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Has anyone experience of fitting this kit. The lower bracket/cross member is too wide to fit between the chassis gearbox attachments. I am loathe to grind down the ends of chassis attachments to make it fit but will if I have to. I will speak to Moss first and see if they have had any returned for this problem although I guess they won' have.
Alan.
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My "J" OD (and GB) came from a saloon, The speedo drive exited say 35Deg downwards under drivers seat. So didn't use a right angle drive, just a nice wide sweeping turn under the drivers floor pan to the engine bay. At the time I remember being delighted to see the cable lined up with holes already in the inner chassis rails perfectly.
But I did fall foul of the fact that in my case the dimension of the OD square drive is not the same. So had to get a cable made up with different size "drive squares" at each end. And it think the cable was a little longer than the std 69" (can't recall exactly why but perhaps if was because I wanted the Speedo on the left of the Tacho).
Good luck
Norman
Should add that mine was a 1962 TR4 Left hooker originally.
I also found the square drive was to small. Turned out that although the GB and OD were TR6 the speedo drive pinion had 17 teeth and was from a Triumph saloon. This type of pinion has the smaller square drive and is also shorter as the cable is secured to it differently than the TR6. Checked that the OD speedo gear had 8 starts and have fitted the correct 20 tooth pinion.
Alan.
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Thanks for replies. All very helpful.
Alan.
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Just fitting a J type O/D gearbox to my 4A. Could some one please advise the correct speedo cable run and if clipping to the chassis is required. I will be using a 69" cable which I believe is the best length to use.
Thanks
Alan.
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I'm going to have a go at this at some point. Where's the best place to get veneer?
Alan.
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There'll be a greater risk of blooming then.
Pete
Not with 2 pack.
Alan.
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Won't that raise the humidity though?
Pete
Yes.
Alan.
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Fan heater won't help keeping bits out of the paint. Lightly watering the floor helps keeping the dust down.
Alan.
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Found this. Does it help?
Alan.
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All the J type pinions and gears can be mixed and matched. Overdrive Repair Services confirmed this.
Alan
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Sorted. The kind people at Overdrive Repair Services have supplied a correct 20 tooth pinion and advised that the problem pinion is from a Triumph saloon on which the square speedo drive is smaller. Also 17 tooth and shorter which it is. Why this was fitted I've no idea. The O/D is definitely TR6 with ID No. 25/115838 and 8 start speedo gear. Just need AlanT to replace the 3mm drive. (Alan you have PM).
Alan.
J Type Overdrive Service
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Or O/D Spares in Rugby. No connection just a satisfied customer.
Alan.