AlanG
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Posts posted by AlanG
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Hi John,
I think that is what Alan has stated - convex (facing rearwards) towards the sprocket, Concave (facing forwards) over the seal throwing oil away.
Or was it the other way!!
Roger
Thanks Roger, that's what I said
Alan
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Camshaft sprocket bolt? Oil thrower is fitted concave (dished) face facing forward allowing oil to be thrown off convex rear face onto chain.
Alan.
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I fitted a shortened o/d Stag ( I think ) gearstick with the switch in the top and no visible wires. This works very well and is ergonomically correct.
Alan.
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After changing all the usual suspects on my 4A it turned out to be the diff. After rocking forwards and backwards in gear over a pit it was obvious knocking was from diff. Just generally worn. Hopefully may be u/j's in your case.
Alan.
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Pete Drugan, Classic Gearboxes - Blackburn.(Truck Transmissions Ltd.)
Alan.
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How would the ongoing quality of the gold parts be ensured. Regular auditing of the manufacturers industry standards and procedures would be the normal method but then would the suppliers do this and do the manufacturers work to any laid down procedures, particularly overseas manufacturers. It would certainly have significant cost implications.
I am not knocking this initiative and think it would be of definite benefit to us but wonder if the maintenance of it would be cost effective.
Alan.
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And it needs to be a J type mainshaft which has a metric front spigot, this then has to be mated with the (probably) imperial input shaft.
Rob
Hi Rob,
As I'm going through he same exercise could you expand on the "probably" please.
Alan.
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Thanks for the replies. Window up tie is loose and rattles. Window down tie tightens up and no rattles. Old age I guess. Anyway plastic wire tie has fixed it.
Alan.
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What, apart from rattling, is the function of the door window tie rod, page 122, item 88, in the Moss catalogue?
Alan.
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Just taken mine for rebuild to Pete Drugen at Truck Transmissions at Blackburn. He is recommended by forum members. Mine was knocking accelerating/decelerating. Pete reckons it's showing signs of excessive backlash, possibly worn bearings maybe the same problem as yours. Due back end of next week.
Alan.
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If you are reasonably mechanically minded stripping and rebuilding the gearbox is not difficult. Useful video on U-tube of guy doing the same and various other links on internet. No special tools just a couple of pullers made out of angle iron and threaded rod. Set of brass or copper drifts also useful. Speaking from experience and gearbox still working well so far!
Alan.
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I have similar sounding clunk. Having renewed all the usual culprits I to am suspecting the diff. I have just spoken to Pete Drugen who advises diffs can clunk if they have excess backlash. Before removing he suggests disconnecting the propshaft and try rotating the diff drive flange. There should only be a few thou of movement. Any more is excessive. I shall do this before getting it rebuilt.
Alan.
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Hi Philip,
Just done the exactly the same conversion on my 4A. O/D was for a saloon. Change of speedo gear and upped the pressure to TR spec. No o/d on 2nd but I don't miss that. Switch on gearstick I much prefer. The J type works very well on a 4A.
Alan.
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Thanks for all the advice, I will start on the job tomorrow. Just one question Alan, why do I need to take off the cross tube? it looks like I can get access with it in place.
Cheers
Andy
So much easier access wise and I also remove the radiator. Why risk it damaging it.
Alan.
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Cross tube needs to come off. If you take the weight with a jack in the centre of the front x member this allows the chassis flex making the removal and refitting a lot easier.
Alan.
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Thanks for the comments. Looks like the CL01 is the one. Now just have to negotiate a discount
.Alan.
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Due to advancing years (car and owner) I'm thinking of buying a CL Auto's CL01 car lift. Just wondered if anybody has experience of these lifts?
Alan.
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...Here's one that'll screw your head.
When doing our aircraft inspections at BA we require a 'test block' to simulate what you are looking for and to calibrate your instrument.
The manufacturers - Boeing etc - specify these test blocks.
They refer to them as standards.
If you make your test block to represent this standard it becomes a sub-standard as far as the Americans are concerned.
I know what they are getting at but they can't see the odd twist in the words.
Back in the 70's I was an inspector in the Standards Room at Hawker Siddeley. We controlled all the metrology on site with various standards and measuring machines. Must have been millions of £'s worth in todays money. Often wander what happened to it all. Probably sold as scrap.
Alan.
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Alan, that weld is magnificent! What the hell happened to that TA that resulted in that fix???!
The TR is an USA car it took a hit on the LH rear corner over there at some point judging by the state of the rear wing under about a ton of filler. Some damage to the boot floor so it was relatively severe. The T/ Arm is RH so guessing it was pushed into the kerb or such.
Alan.
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I was told by a MOT tester friend of mine that welded repairs to suspension parts was not allowed and a failure. However having said that my TR never failed with the attached T/ Arm fitted. Now replaced as it made me a bit nervous whenever I looked at it.
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Woolies smaller boot seal 268a as recommended on here a while ago works very well and R10 extrusion for the vent seal allows flap to sit flush when closed.
Alan.
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What's the best way to check the diff backlash on the car?
Alan.
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EP90 GL4 works well in ODGB and diff for me. Cold or hot.
Alan.
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Got a long standing clonk at the back. All U/J's are new. Diff mounts all good. Shocks all good and tight. Adaptors were replaced a couple of years ago. Serious tightening of the wheel nuts seems to have reduced the clonk a little so I'm suspecting the wheel hub splines maybe worn. What's the best way to check the splines for wear? Could the diff be clonking?
Alan.
One Owner TR5
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
I chatted to Mike and Paddy not so much about the TR5 but the Fireball windscreen sticker. Not Fireball XL5 and captain Steve Zodiac but Fireball racing dinghies which Mike and myself used to sail in the 70's. Mike in Switzerland me at Welton Waters. That sticker was amazing !!!!!!!!!
Alan.