AlanG
-
Content Count
468 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by AlanG
-
-
How about these http://www.keysandpins.com/products/groove-pins
I think the original pin is something similar. Min. quantity might be a problem though.
Alan.
-
Roll pin sounds a good idea. Would it be strong enough?
Alan.
-
As I stripped the GB top cover the 1/8" pin, fixing the 3rd gear change selector rod end to the selector rod,fell out. What's the best way to rectify this? I'm thinking of lightly countersinking the hole either side of the rod and peening over the ends of a new piece of 1/8" rod. I don't think new pins are available and holes are worn oversize anyway.
Just a thought.... were these taper pins of some sort? Would they work? Are 1/8" taper pins available?
Alan.
-
Thanks for the replies folks. I eventually used a dremel and very carefully ground the outer shell until it was paper thin and then split it with a chisel. The grinding has to be done very carefully so as not to damage the shafts. I would not recommend this method and next time would make, borrow or steal a puller.
Alan.
-
I'm struggling to remove the three shell type needle roller bearings from the input and counter shaft. What's the best way of doing it?
Alan.
-
Thanks everybody for all the info. and offers. I'm going to go the M16x2 route. Looks as close as makes no never mind and I have a 14mm drill already. A cheapo tap is not a lot of money bearing in mind it'll probably only get used one time. Well twice actually, I'll do a test piece first. Better safe than sorry.
Alan.
-
Thanks Roger. I will have to do some measurements before drilling.
Alan.
-
Just fitting a J type O/D to a non- O/D gearbox. Has anyone drilled and tapped the top cover for the isolator switches? What size are the threads? Seem to think I read somewhere that they are metric but maybe I dreamt it. And how critical is the position? Is drilling the bosses centrally near enough?
Alan.
-
FWIW I recently fitted a TR6 J type that I inherited with my non OD 4A. As GB and O/D were an unknown quantity I stripped and rebuilt the GB with the only damage found being a broken thrust washer. The OD pressure filter revealed a considerable amount of metallic particles although no large lumps of metal. I decided to get the OD checked by OD Spares in Rugby. This proved the OD to being working well and the considered opinion was that the metallic particles were from the GB over a considerable time and not an indication of a problem with either units. I think the pressure filter rarely got cleaned in bygone times. GB and OD have now done 3000mls. with no problems.
Alan.
-
I used Comma 20/50 for a couple of years but thought the oil pressure dropped off a bit to much on fast motorway runs. Presumably temp related. Changed to Penrite 20/60 with a definite improvement.
Alan.
-
Likely to be one of the aforementioned but with mine it was a worn diff. Only found after I had renewed everything else. Rock the car back and forth over a pit and it will be obvious what the clunking is.
Alan.
-
+1 Woolies.
Alan
-
I found this U Tube series of videos on TR gearbox rebuild useful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WINJTzyWD6Y
Alan
-
I cut and shut mine. Drilled the center of each mating end to take a pin. The pin centralised both ends and held every together before welding. Worked well.
Alan.
-
No but I will do as I also need a hybrid mainshaft which I understand he has.
Thanks
Alan
-
I'm looking for a TR6 J type O/D to gearbox adaptor plate. Moss Part No. 312305SR.
Alan.
-
I painted my 4A as per this link http://www.torquecars.com/styling/spray-painting.php
It turned out really well. Even if I do say so myself. IMHO 2K solid colour looks much better on older vehicles than 2K with clear lacquer. The flatting of each coat with a black guide coat ensure all imperfections were removed before the next coat was applied.
Alan.
-
5/16" UNC
Alan.
-
I got a 4A one from Revingtons.
Alan.
-
U can't beat a good vice
Alan.
-
Worth checking the diff. Best done over a pit with the car in gear with someone to rock the car back and forth while you are underneath.
Alan.
-
Seal. Important so that air is only drawn through the matrix and diverted to foot and dash vents as required. I used industrial type window/draught seal, more substantial than the DIY type and will hopefully last longer. My heater and demist work well despite the poor reputation of 4A heaters.
Alan.
-
I've been trying to get in touch with Smartscreen to buy one of their intermittent wipe units. There is no reply to email or reorded telephone message. Anyone know if they're still in business or maybe on holiday?
Alan.
-
I've got MX5 seats so I made a loop in the end of the tonneau strap and slip it over the hand brake lever. Works well keeping the flapping under control.
Alan.
Third Gear Selector Rod End Pin
in General TR Technical
Posted
No Pete,
It's the pin that holds the "fork" at the end of the 3rd gear gear selector rod ( what the end of the gear lever locates in ) to the selector rod. It's not listed in any of the parts lists.
Alan.