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AlanG

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Posts posted by AlanG

  1. I remember during my apprenticeship in the 60's working with an old guy in the Maintenance dept. who could scrape? freshly machined lathe and milling machine beds so the surface looked just like fish scales (for oil retention). Work of art. He could also sharpen drills some about 2" to 3" dia. by hand on a grinding wheel. Unfortunately I never developed these skills so have a fair sized collection of blunt drills. Can anybody recommend an affordable drill sharpening tool that works?

    Alan.

  2. I'm rebuilding a TR6 J Type gearbox and just wondering whether to lubricate the ball and roller bearings with grease or just use gearbox oil. The roller bearings are in particular well hidden and I would guess take a little while to become fully 'wet'. Any views appreciated.

    Alan.

  3. What I mean is that if I wanted a "diff pinion" bearing, for example, I could look up "diff pinion" on a list of TR bearings against which would be tabled a bearing manufacturers part number. Any manufacturer would do as the part number could be cross referenced. A bearing of the required quality and price could then be sourced from any supplier.

    Cheers

    Alan.

  4. Thanks Peter. There is a bearing and seal supplier in Hull who are very good. George Lodge & Sons. No connection. If I could find a list of manufacturers part numbers of bearings and seals used on TR's this would allow a choice of price and manufacturer without having to remove the old one first.

    Alan .

  5. I have seen the one in the CD Stuart and wondered if I might regret that extra height. Also it seems easier, if I'm making them, to just make a flat plate with studs.

     

    I appreciate you are tall but have you got supermodel legs and a short body? :rolleyes:

    Made mine from flat plate and studs. Bit of a phaff getting the positioning of the studs right but they work really well with the Mx5 seats. Low as possible with full fore and aft adjustment. I'm 6' and find the seating position very comfortable.

    Alan.

  6. Alan - when you say refurb do you mean strip down, clean and reassemble or are you also looking for recalibration too?

     

    Cheers

     

    Dave

    Yes recalibration as well. I'm trying to sort a fluctuating oil pressure indication. However, having yesterday run the car with a borrowed gauge the problem is still there so it ain't the gauge, but will still have the original gauge refurbed as the dial is dis-coloured.

    Alan.

  7. My understanding is that the balance valve only opens if the filter is clogged.

    Hence the addition of the item when the filter system went from bypass to full flow

     

    Peter W

     

    Does this help?

     

    http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/297.cfm

     

    PS Remember that modern spin-on type filter cartridges may have a bypass valve integrated in their construction so oil will flow to the oil galleries unfiltered if the filter becomes blocked.

    http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm

     

    6 cyl TR has a bypass arrangement set inside the original filter bowl - item 5

    vitesse_plate_f.jpg

    Yes that's as I understand it. So I guess the question is if the spring was fatigued or the ball not seating correctly could this cause the fluctuating oil pressure?

    Alan,

  8. Did you look at the Moss part catalogue?

    The exploded drawing of the pressure relief valve gives a clear view of the assembly order. items 7/8/9/10

     

    http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/oil-system/oil-filter-mountings-f2ac65.html

     

    Peter W

    Sorry if I wasn't very clear, I meant that nobody ever seems to mention that the balance valve might be a problem and the spring and ball need replacement as with the relief valve.

    Alan.

  9. Still no luck finding the cause of this fluctuating oil pressure. I have replaced the pressure relief ball and spring and now bled the tube to gauge. Oil pump has been removed and checked. The filter head is a Tecalemit and the parts book shows an internal balance/blow off valve in addition to the relief valve. This also comprises of a ball and spring. I'm now wondering if this could be at fault. Anyone experienced problems with this valve and does it come apart ok with the filter head removed? It certainly never seems to get a mention.

    Alan.

  10. Thanks for the advice people. Circlip came out ok. Shuttle was a bit more difficult as the lip of the circlip groove was a bit bruised but with the use of a large hammer and chisel (only joking, well sort of :rolleyes:) out it came. Removed the bruised area and gave everything a thorough clean with brake cleaner. Now appears to be working ok. Shuttle is now moving and making the prescribed clicking noise.

    Alan.

  11. I have TR6 O/D gearbox which I intend fitting to my TR4a. Checking the solenoid out showed it was not "clicking" when energised. On the bench the solenoid was again energised and the shuttle valve moved only a very small amount, hardly measurable. Can solenoids be repaired? The gearbox has not been used for around 20 years so I wondered if the solenoid just needs cleaning. Presumably removing the circlip allows the shuttle valve to be withdrawn. Is there anything I need to be aware of before doing this? Any other advice appreciated.

    Alan.

  12. If its the original handle remove the boot handle and the key number is stamped on the shaft. The glove box lock which should be on the same key doesnt have the number stamped on it unfortunately.

    Stuart.

    Mine did. On the back I think.

    Alan.

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