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AlanG

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Posts posted by AlanG

  1. Right, have relieved the drive corners and then some more. Nope. Have reduced the 3mm flats some .010". Nope. Nothing to lose now so have carefully and gradually filed the drive until almost round. Nope. Tried to see down the pinion bore to see what was going on but too small and dark. Lost the will to live so have ordered a new pinion. ( AlanT you have new PM :wub: ).

    Alan.

  2. The wire-stubs on the angle drives measure 3mm.

     

    A 3mm piece of key-steel is an almost perfect fit in an original A-type pinion.

     

    You need just a little relief of the sharp corners of the key-steel because, of course, the square hole does not have perfectly sharp corners.

     

    Can you get a 3mm drill in the pinion? I mean the blunt end of course.

     

    Great thinking Alan. Just tried 3mm drill and it fits perfectly so will relieve the key steel tomorrow as you suggest. I'll report back.

    Thanks for all the comments.

    Alan.

  3. I'm in the process of fitting a TR6 J type gearbox to my 4A. The square hole in the pinion gear shaft of the speedo take off in the overdrive is undersize and will not accept the square drive end of the angle drive. There is nothing wrong with the angle drive, it fits the 4A gearbox speedo take off and the speedo inner cable itself will not fit into the pinion gear shaft. Also, pinion square drive and speedo cable inner both measure the same size. Only thing I can think is the pinion shaft has been bodged to fit smaller/damaged speedo cable but no obvious signs of this. Before I order a replacement pinion shaft has anyone any idea of what might be the problem?

    Alan.

  4. Hi Roger.

     

    I struggled to separate the tapers when I did this on my 6 recently.

     

    Then I came up with a cunning plan, bolt the two stubs together in opposition and tighten until one lets go.

    Then using washers and a suitably sized socket repeat for the other !

     

    See attached pic, it worked a treat :-)

     

    attachicon.gifimage.jpg

     

    Steve

    Just done this and it worked a treat :D

    Thanks Steve.

    Alan.

  5. Just got the diff. sat on the bench. It needs new axle and pinion oil seals but is otherwise fine. I'm going to remove the rear casing while I'm at it so I can drain the old oil. Is there anything else I should be doing while it's out?

    Alan.

  6. Thanks folks,

    Friend of mine (not me, honest) managed to short it out on the solenoid. Must have been red hot as inner unravelled and then broke when being removed. Outer has been distorted in a couple of places. I've straightened the outer but it looks a bit unsightly although the new inner slides fine. Probably not worth the risk of un-swaging the outer from the alloy tube of the end fitting and then finding there is not enough alloy tube left to re-swage it. Bearing in mind what these things cost.

    Alan.

  7. I'm reassembling a TR6 J Type gearbox (Cd 51088) following a rebuild and I've got a bit of dilemma and wondered if any of the gearbox guru's out there could advise me. When I reinstalled the input shaft it would not go fully home into the gearbox casing and that the gears were prevented from rotating freely. With it removed I checked the length of the new needle roller bearing (Catalogue Item 10. Pt. No. 158368). It measured .620" (15.7mm). The old bearing measured .589" (14.9mm). I assumed that this was the problem, the excess length preventing the input shaft from going fully home, possibly a bad or incorrect bearing had been supplied. However, Rimmers assure me that all their stock is the same and there been no other complaints. Checking with Moss they measured a bearing for me and it was a similar 15.6mm approx. If anyone has access to a bearing would they please measure it's length for me? Would the excess bearing length cause this problem or what else might it be?

    Thanks

    Alan.

  8. I'm reassembling a TR6 J Type gearbox (Cd 51088) following a rebuild and I've got a bit of dilemma and wondered if any of the gearbox guru's out there could advise me. When I reinstalled the input shaft it would not go fully home into the gearbox casing and that the gears were prevented from rotating freely. With it removed I checked the length of the new needle roller bearing (Catalogue Item 10. Pt. No. 158368). It measured .620" (15.7mm). The old bearing measured .589" (14.9mm). I assumed that this was the problem, the excess length preventing the input shaft from going fully home, possibly a bad or incorrect bearing had been supplied. However, Rimmers assure me that all their stock is the same and there been no other complaints. Checking with Moss they measured a bearing for me and it was a similar 15.6mm approx. If anyone has access to a bearing would they please measure it's length for me? Would the excess bearing length cause this problem or what else might it be?

    Thanks

    Alan.

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