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Superaquarama

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Everything posted by Superaquarama

  1. I looked at the catalogues for prices of GRP assemblies and was a bit overwhelmed - starting from scratch there seem to be so many little fittings and fiddly bits and it's hard to know exactly what you need and don't need, so I gave up for the time being as the car's still months away from completion. It seems surprising that no-one supplies a complete kit, or even a complete ensemble ready to drop on.
  2. Although I think this item from e.g. Moss would be a simpler solution, as I understand the twin system just fits straight onto it -but you'd need to ask the supplier to check that this is in fact the case: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/graphics/uk/HomeBanners/NEW0510/tt1100S_2_web.jpg
  3. Yes, I wondered whether the o/drive may have been engaged, the effect is like clutch slip in that nothing happens. Can be disastrous, I understand, although had it occur once in the middle of Madrid and got away with it.
  4. Ah, that might explain it !
  5. Is there a translation for these anywhere, Rob ? 'Original TR' book has some but not all the paint codes and no trim codes. Wedgwood is 26, Mike, but the book doesn't say what Powder is.
  6. Powder Blue is probably right, the only other candidate might be Wedgwood Blue which is of course similar to the Wedgwood Jasper pottery and fairly distinct. Don't know the paint code offhand, but if you contact Paul at Jawel Paints he can doubtless help and can, incidentally, supply it in cellulose. http://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=contact_us
  7. Ok, ok, point taken - seams will remain as per factory ! But many thanks for the help, everyone.
  8. Looking at photos of various TR4s & 5s, I'm a bit puzzled about the short cross-seams in the rear section - there are 4 per side, 2 on the rear 'tonneau' and 2 by the rear lights. Sometimes some or all aren't visible and thus must be leaded, others have all 4 on display. I'm just getting started on prepping the body for paint and my inclination is to lead them all - anyone have any thoughts on this ? Thanks, Anthony
  9. if you want a heat shield I could knock one up for you. What car (4/4A) what carbs (SU/Strom) Thanks for the kind offer, Roger - well, if it looks like the Revington one as mentioned by Menno http://www.revington...oductID=RTR2067, then please do so. But don't go to any trouble, it looks so simple that even I could manage to make one !
  10. Just bought an Accuspark electronic dizzy and coil for £59.95, heard good reports of them but will keep the original dizzy in the boot - as Roger says, if they die you're stuck. Anthony
  11. When I did the conversion on a 3.4 Jaguar, I just whacked some heavy fusewire across the ammeter terminals to bring it down to sensible levels and prevent it end-stopping. Still shows a healthy reading, I suppose in effect it's converted from a 30 to maybe a 60 amp ammeter. And keeps the battery up much, much better; you can go to the car even after a month and it starts straight up, whereas before it nearly always needed charging or the good old Sealey booster pack if left for more than about 3 weeks. So didn't need any encouragement to fit an alternator to our 4A project last week - got an 18ACR off the shelf at our local agric. engineers, £44. It's simple to rotate the front casing to accommodate right or left hand fitting. But a heat shield ? The only car I've ever seen (or perhaps I should say noticed) one on is an E Type, and that's over the top rather than shielding it from the exhaust - more likely to keep the heat in ! Is there an off the shelf shield that can be used ? By the way, Menno, nice job but isn't your rocker cover on the wrong way round ?
  12. Oh right, many thanks everyone. I'm going to need a new light switch so will have to ensure that it has a) chrome stalk and flasher facility. Then I can convert the flasher to a dipswitch with the aid of a Hella switchover relay ! Have to say I don't recall my 4A back in the day not having a flasher, as I'd driven MGBs, Mk 2 Jags, etc. which all had them and would probably have been a bit peeved if it didn't have one. By the way, Stuart, forgot to acknowedge safe receipt of the PCV valve the other day - many thanks !
  13. Yes, I got a new hub at Malvern and someone pointed out that it was an MG hub with too many splines ! And the knock-off thread was different. Fortunately the vendor was still there so was happy to take it back, but you really need to take a wheel and spinner along or get one from a TR spares chap such as Mike Hazlewood which will be the correct item
  14. The wires to a headlight flasher are normally brown (or possibly purple) in and blue/white out. But I'm not yet convinced that 4As ever had a headlight flasher as original with a chrome-stalk switch, either on the light switch or the indicator switch. I posted this question a few weeks ago and the results seemed inconclusive - unless anyone can say for sure ? Anthony
  15. Moi, I'd vote for the servo. Back in the day I fitted one to a 4a and went with the guy who fitted it to test it. He was driving, and we'd only gone about 200 yards when someone shot out of a side road in, of all things, a dark blue TR2 ! We stood on the brake and seemed to almost stop dead 'Christ', said Dave, 'we'd have been into him if we hadn't got this servo !' The TR2 driver was most apologetic - didn't know the road and had just slid on loose gravel and out onto the main road when he braked hard for the junction. Never had much trouble with servos, they just seem to give better braking for less effort.
  16. Thanks again, Ashley. And could be, Alec, but I'm beginning to think that the flywheel may be off a TR4 as the car came in bits from a vendor who had a couple of other TRs as well. I took it to the engineers' today and the chap commented that the flywheel teeth didn't look as though they'd been meshed in a very long time as there's quite a bit of surface rust on them, whereas the car was up & running until not much more than a year ago. However, the teeth seemed to agree perfectly with the hi-torque starter teeth, which was a relief. Anyway, we're putting in new bolt-holes so it will be back to standard should any future issues arise.
  17. A handy little anti-theft device, too. Car would start and go a few hundred yards before 'breaking down' and being hastily abandoned. Where do you get those little taps?
  18. Thanks, Stuart. I've just been looking at earlier postings on the sidescreen forum, where folks have fitted the 4A clutch, and it seems the simplest solution would be to drill & tap new holes in the flywheel for the smaller clutch & cover. But not something I'll do myself as it needs to be über precise ! The smaller diaphragm clutch appears to be stronger and lighter, both in actual weight and pedal pressure, so it wouldn't seem sensible to revert to the older type clutch. Oddly, though, the old thrust bearing was of the later type, so it's still a bit of puzzle.
  19. Balancing is a complete mystery to me, other than something like wheel balancing. I mean, how did you know where to put the circlip,or was it just trial & error ?
  20. Mmm, still a bit confused here. Firstly we have myself, Noel and Tom with a distance of 10.5" between diametrically opposed cover mounting bolt-holes, and all presumably TR4A engines. Secondly the flywheel 'patina' shows that the previous clutch plate diameter was 9" But then Rimmers catalogue says that a 4A clutch plate is 8.5" diameter, and this is indeed what Manners have supplied too, and the clutch cover bolt-hole diameter is a fraction under 10". Whereas only the earlier TRs have 9" clutches, up to and incl. the TR4 - again according to the Rimmers catalogue. So Ashley's comment above seems to be correct and it seems I actually need the 9" clutch kit. Our 4A is no. 25 off the line so is a very early car; maybe the first ones had the earlier clutch and Noel and Tom also coincidentally have early engines ? The 'Original TR' book mentions changes to the clutch at CT50125 (first 4a was CT50001), but doesn't specify what,other than to say they were minor and parts were interchangeable. So further thoughts, anyone ?
  21. Presumably it's a prolonged period at 2400, so would most likely only apply to top gear. But that's only about 48 mph with a non o/d car, I thought the crankshaft breaking resonance was much higher than that - is this a different problem ?
  22. Many thanks as ever, guys. It looks as though the flywheel's correct since it's the same as Noel's and Tom's, so has to be an incorrect clutch kit. It came from David Manners so I'll get onto them on Monday, they're always very helpful at sorting problems and David himself will come to the rescue if necessary.
  23. Would somebody who has a flywheel lying around be so kind as to measure it for me ? I went to fit the new clutch assy this morning and it's either the wrong one or the flywheel is incorrect, but don't know which. The latter is possible because the car came in boxes and could just have got accidentally switched, although it fits perfectly onto the end of the crank. The clutch cover is about 1/2" too small diameter and thus the bolt holes don't line up. Anyway, the flywheel diameter I have is 11 1/16" or 282 mm (ignoring the ring gear), and the distance between diametrically opposite holes is 10.5" or 268mm. The ring gear is of the bolt-on type. Thanks, Anthony
  24. Ah, right - many thanks, everyone, rather obscure and not something I'd have guessed ! So may as well leave it where it is and let it continue fulfilling its purpose.
  25. Just fitting the engine & gearbox to our TR4A chassis. Right at the aft end of the o/d box where the propshaft attaches is a collar round the neck of the mainshaft housing which holds a large downwards facing 3" to 4" rubber doughnut. I assumed was the rear gearbox mounting until I realised this is further forward on the box and a different thing entirely. So what is this doughnut that now hangs in space and doesn't seem to be in any parts diagrams ? Thanks, Anthony
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