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Chilp3

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Posts posted by Chilp3

  1. Hello David,

    We're down in West Sussex so not far from you. For our TR6 we always use TRGB and find it's worth the journey if you plan ahead. In fact the car is presently with TRGB right now having this years schedule or work completed!

    Good luck

    Best Regards, Peter

  2. I would endorse Nigel's recommendation for A.C.F. Howell. I have used them several times including recently to re-chrome the front and rear bumpers on my TR6. Prior to that they completed an excellent job on all of the chrome for my MGC Roadster including some restoration.

    They are very good and therefore popular so you should plan on up to eight weeks which is their normal lead-time. 

    Best Regards, Peter

  3. +1 for ACF Howell in Walsall, first class quality and service although be prepared for up to eight weeks as a typical turnaround. From my perspective well worth the wait.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  4. Hi Steven,

    It sounds like it might be useful to remove the gearbox to allow a thorough inspection of the clutch, bearing, carrier, cross-shaft, and the dreaded dowel pin which you can clearly see wired in the picture provided by Stuart. I had similar symptoms on my early CR car and ended up upon removal and investigation replacing everything including the clutch. I opted for the Revington phosphor bronze carrier and up-rated bearing which upon correct assembly and lubrication is much improved. As a precaution I also replaced all of the bell-housing fastenings upon re-assembly together with the correct dowel bolts to ensure accurate alignment. The clutch is now fully functional and noticeably lighter in operation.

     

    There are a large number of previous discussion threads here on the forum surrounding this common problem which I am sure you will find interesting and helpful.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  5. www.ep-services.co.uk

     

    Hi Denis,

    I used 'EP Services' to rebuild the original water pump on my early CR car and was delighted with the service. The bearings on mine were worn which was identified using a stethoscope and probe.

     

    Hope this helps, Peter

  6. Hi Gareth,

    TRGB offer an enamel badge and plinth (if you need it). The badge is excellent quality and has two studs that allow you to affix through the plinth. I believe they have had them re-manufactured in Germany. I am very pleased with the quality and fit of the parts which are fitted to my car CR00358.

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  7. Hi Stu,

    I had TRGB fit a replacement clutch during a recent engine rebuild and it works perfectly with a smooth light pedal action. I believe they fit B&B but a phone call would confirm. I have also fitted a phosphor bronze carrier, up-rated release bearing, new cross shaft and pin, bell housing bearings all supplied by Revington TR. I would also strongly recommend that you ensure the correct 'dowel' bolts are used and of course in the correct holes when re-fitting the gearbox. For the avoidance of doubt I fitted a new set of fastenings on re-assembly as you never know who has been there before you!

     

    Good luck and let us know how you get on.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  8. Hi Ian,

    To add to the discussion my TR6 is fitted with the Phoenix extractor manifold with the Revington overhead throttle linkage. There is presently no coating or wrap fitted to the manifold and all works well. The manifold and exhaust was fitted by TRGB as part of a stage II engine rebuild. I discussed the option of wraps and/or coating for the manifold and was advised by TRGB that based upon their experience it wasn't necessary for a road car. I guess time will tell but for now I am delighted with the results and the service received from TRGB.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  9. Hi Ross,

    I purchased an original 'Blaupunkt' stereo radio from 'Chrome London' who had restored it with an MP3 connection. The quality and service was excellent and the radio looks great mounted in the h-frame. I also completely re-trimmed the interior of my car using Skinner leather materials and the quality (in my opinion) was excellent.

     

    I hope this may be helpful to you.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

     

    www.chromelondon.com

  10. Hi Martin,

    I would suggest that you also take a look at the front suspension top ball joints which will create a 'clonk' if worn to excess. I had this problem on my car which when replaced solved the 'clonking'.

     

    Good luck and let us know how you get on.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  11. Hi Simon,

    I hope you find the source of the clunk soon as this can be very irritating. I had a similar issue with my TR6 which turned out to be the top ball joints on the front suspension. The OE joint has the provision to lubricate them via a nipple. I noticed that not all of the replacements have the nipple with others perhaps 'sealed for life'. I purchased a pair from Revington TR and have to say they have been great. The clunk has also now gone from my car.

     

    I would also endorse Roger's comments regarding the SuperPro bushes which are very good and IMHO worth the premium.

     

    Good luck, Peter

  12. I have just had my original front and rear bumpers re-chromed by ACF Howell and have to say the results are superb if that helps. As is the case with our hobby we have to be prepared to pay a fair price for a good job which also reflects the amount of hours necessary to achieve the end results we're looking for.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  13. Hi,

    I am looking for an original chrome interior door handle for my TR6 as the body-shop has lost one of mine. I know you can buy them new but I was hoping that perhaps another member may have an original spare that they might be willing to sell me?

     

    Thanks for looking and hopefully helping me out of a fix.

     

    Best regards, Peter

  14. Hi John,

    I've just finished this job myself and endorse the comments and suggestions already made on this thread. I found that trying to fix the clip at the furthest end of the door frame (B-Post end of door) was extremely tight. What helped me was to remove/loosen the bolt holding the window runner at that end of the door to give the necessary clearance to hook the clips into place.

     

    You will also need to 'shape' the inner fur strips as they come in a straight length. This is also a little tricky as you will no doubt discover. It's all achievable to a high standard if you take your time so I wish you luck.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  15. Hi Keith,

    I have used a vinyl repair kit from Frost which you might find helpful. Take a look at their website. The kit comprises of a vinyl repair glue and vinyl paste which needs to be heat-cured. You achieve the grain/ texture by applying a patch over the repair after which you use a steam iron to cure the adhesive. The patch peels off immediately leaving you with the grain effect. Whilst the repair isn't invisible you might find it acceptable whist retaining your original crash-pads.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  16. Hi Menno,

    Looking at the picture you have uploaded I would think the solution will be to cut out the rot and let in new steel with repair sections. I don't think these are readily available as 'new panels' so it might be a case for your repair shop to make them up using cardboard templates.

     

    Good luck with the restoration and great to see another TR6 complete with its original factory hard-top.

     

    Best Regards, Peter

  17. Hi Tim,

    I've previously removed the window glass from my OE hardtop without issue. I cut the existing rubber seal as it was very hard and brittle after 44 years! I purchased replacement side and rear window rubbers from Moss and was very pleased with the fit and quality. I shall leave it to others to offer advice about the Webasto sunroof.

     

    Hope this helps

     

    Best Regards, Peter

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