rcreweread
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Posts posted by rcreweread
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Colin - is there a particular reason why you did away with a mechanical pump - I know the repros don't have a particularly good reputation, but the original AC Delco pumps were pretty reliable over many years.
Cheers Rich
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John - I take it this wouldn't be any good:
Cheers Rich
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Hi Peter - thanks for the suggestion but I don't do the alloy rads I used to anymore - I have got a few OE Stanpart rads for 4As which have been professionally recored , but I don't have anything for a TR6.
Proper alloy rads are not cheap and you should expect to pay £400 -£500+ for a good quality UK made one - ones on fleabay for under £200 are almost certainly Chinese ones , which many people have found problematical so best to steer clear even though they are considerably cheaper.
Quality alloy rads are often quoted as having up to 35% more cooling capacity than a standard copper rad, and while indeed copper is a better heat conductor than aluminium, that's not the only determining factor - the aluminum cores used are far more efficient in all sorts of ways, and with modern design are able to deliver better cooling performance - that's not to say that a good old fashioned copper core is no good - far from it.
In use I'm not sure you can easily determine whether an alloy rad is cooling better than a copper one but I know when I fitted an Alicool one to a local members TR6, and we were tuning the engine ( mostly at low revs and tickover) for most of the afternoon, the electric fan never came on - I thought that was pretty impressive.
Lots of different views I know, but I'm just saying it as it was from my own direct experience
Cheers Rich
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Wiel - they look great - are you able to supply these to us here in the UK? If so, how much are they please?
Cheers Rich
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On 12/1/2023 at 8:41 PM, Dady said:
Does antifreeze have a shelf life? I’ve got a bottle in the garage I’ve had for years. can I still use it to top up?
David
Can somebody answer the above part of the question please, as my neighbour who is no longer driving has some unused blue freeze?
Cheers Rich
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1 hour ago, david c said:
Just an update on the brake issues.
It's blinking cold in my "workshop" so I was reluctant to pull the callipers again and unclip the dust boots.
After a suggestion by a member of my local group (East Saxons)
I tried this, I set up a length of 2x1 from a plywood pad on the front seat to the brake pedal, with just enough pressure to bring the pads into contact with the disk and left it for 24 hours the idea being to teach the dust covers what to do. I didn't hold out much hope of success, stretching the boots in this cold weather was in my mind a bit of a non starter. so before removing the 2x1 I set up a jury rig camera holder and set it to movie mode, all good. but when I removed the prop I looked at the film, I was a little annoyed nothing recorded just a still image.......but when I actually locked at the brakes I could see why, nothing had moved the pads hadn't pulled back from the disks, the movie was working but as nothing moved.............I tried the brake pedal and it just felt normal, no excess travel, just felt right.
I'm not claiming this is the whole answer, but it's interesting, when the weather warms up a bit I'll take the car out for a gentle run up and down the lane and see what's what. In the meantime I have put the 2x1 back in place for a couple of days, can't do any harm.
Thanks all for your help and advise, and thank you Richard C R for your idea. David
David - glad the issue appears to have been resolved but in fairness to many others, my suggestion of propping the brake pedal to hold the pressure in the system overnight has been put forward by quite a few previous posters, but it's good to know it appears to have worked in your case
Cheers Rich
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There's an interesting similar forum post in the TR6 Forum under the heading "Bespoke TR6 Catch Can"
Cheers Rich
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6 minutes ago, dougal said:
Do they have a different ratio?
Yes - US TR6s ( and 250s) had a 3.7 ratio diff ( same as TR4As), whereas UK cars were fitted with a 3.45 as standard
Cheers Rich
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Andy - +1 for Pete Cox (Tom) for diff rebuild - also worth checking your ratio whilst you are at it as now is the time to change it, if it needs it - if youyr car was an original US import, it will probably have a 3.7 ratio as opposed to the UK cars with a 3.45 - the latter will give nicer cruising capability but at the expense of a slight drop in acceleration.
However, you said at the start of the post that the diff whine was noticeable in first gear - normally if a diff is whining, it will be apparent in all gears once it gets up to the rotational speed where it whines, so not just 1st gear - bear in mind 1st gears are typically more noisy than the other gears.
Hope this helps
Cheers Rich
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You say it fired a few times but when you pulled the plugs, they weren't wet - there should have been evidence of fuel on them if you squirted some fuel in through the carb mouths -I would try a bit more fuel squirted into the carbs, or put a little squirt direct into each cylinder but don't overdo it or you will flood the plugs.
One other longshot - if you have the original cast exhaust manifold fitted, make sure you haven't fitted the gasket to the down pipe 90 degrees out because it will fit in any orientation but get it wrong, and it blocks the gas flow by approx 50% which will cause back pressure
Cheers Rich
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1 hour ago, stuart said:
If you have spark then just try tipping some fuel into the carb mouths,
Stuart.
+1 but don't put too much in - I typically fill up the cap from an oil can and pour into each carb mouth - some of it usually spills so have a wet towel handy in case it spits back and sets fire to the excess petrol so you can quickly douse it - if it fires and runs for a few seconds before stopping, you will then know you have a fuel supply issue.
Have you tried priming the carbs with the fuel pump lever - if all is quiet, you can usually just hear the fuel flowing from the pump through the pipes - what sort of pump is it? An original AC Delco unit or a repro or have you gone electric?
Also do everything one at a time so you will know exactly what the problem issue was when it eventually runs.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Cheers Rich
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Jonny - lots of people use something like these:
Cheers Rich
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3 hours ago, BaulyCars said:
Yeah was pleased to get those overriders off, massive things.
Toby - if you are planning to fit UK type over riders to your front bumper, bear in mind the TR4 and TR4A are not the same - the 4A ones are quite a lot smaller (and also used on the TR5) , whereas the TR4 ones are noticeably larger and are very similar to the rear ones but without the number plate light hole.
Also worth noting that the TR4 front over riders are situated more inboard of where TR4A ones are - yours with the US spec bits look like they are in the right place so you may be able to simply swap to the correct chrome ones. The bumpers bars are the same size/profile but the mounting holes are differently located so they are not interchangeable, and the horizontal brackets on the inner face of the bumper and their support bars to the chassis are also model specific so make sure if you have to get any of these bits, you get the right ones - looking at your front bumper, it looks straight and in good nick so all the supporting bits should be good to go,
Just for info, all TR4/4A and 5 rears bumpers and over riders are the same
Hope this helps
Cheers Rich
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Toby - really enjoying watching these videos.
Just thought you might like to know that the front grill isn't a TR4A one but rather a more valuable TR5 one - the difference primarily being the 4A one has a starting handle hole in the middle of the bottom rail where there is a larger backing piece - I would sell it ( I'm sure there will be good demand for it) and replace with a much cheaper 4A unit - there are two versions of that with slightly rounded edged slats on the early cars and more sharp edged on the later cars like the TR5.
Cheers Rich
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Guys - just to be clear, if the antifreeze is unused and still in it's container, are you saying the anti corrosion qualities will still diminish over time - I'm just helping to clear out an elderly neighbours garage and there are some cans/bottles of antifreeze - if it's still likely to be useable, I won't take it to the tip for recycling.
Similarly, there is also a nearly full 5 litres of good old Castrol GTX, and some smaller tins - does this go off over time? If so, I'll use it as chain oil on my chainsaw!
Cheers Rich
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John -a properly set up overdrive, whether it be an A or J type, should engage quickly irrespective of the type - as they wear, response times will usually slow down - type of oil will also have a bearing.
In use, the J type is maybe a little more reliable because it is less reliant on the electrics compared to the A type, and unless modified to do so, doesn't work on 2nd gear like the A type.
A genuine TR J type is probably a bit cheaper than £200 less than an A type, but if you want an even cheaper entry level, then simply use a saloon overdrive box ( a j type one is easier) which are a lot cheaper and fairly readily available - you need to modify the gearbox mounting, use the saloon clutch plate and change the rear flange and accept an inaccurate speedo. However this will impact the end value of the car - to get the most value out of the conversion, a genuine A type TR unit will always create the most end value - just my opinion!
Cheers Rich
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As requested, here are some photos of one of the wheels on my 1965 4A with a part of a wing of the same colour in the photo,
which is TriumphNew WhiteCheers Rich
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On 11/8/2023 at 7:50 AM, Besalu said:
Rich, has your TR4 been resprayed recently? do you think the difference in colour from the wheels on your 64 4a and your TR4 body colour could be the wheel paint "ageing"? Any difference in colour between the spare and the others? The document Richard posted above pretty much confirms the paint used was Spa white.
We are at risk here of getting confused - my 1965 4A is in it's original colour of
TriumphNew White and all the steel wheels ( including the spare) look the same colour as the bodyshell. My 1962 TR4 was rebuilt and resprayed in 2012 back to it's original colour of Spa White ( and has refurbed wires so not relevant here) - I was given the exact paint code for Spa white by the late Clive Manvers - Spa White is a much purer whiter white thanTriumphNew White which is creamier than Spa White but not as creamy as other classics of the period in Old English White.Spa White and
TriumphNew White are very obviously and clearly different such that you can't confuse them.Richard (RAHTR4) provides top class info, but relating to the TR4, and it's logical to assume that ST painted the wheels in the same colour white as the prevailing "white" colour for the model.
Arallsopp has then provided evidence of the silver wheel colour on his 1966 4A - my 4A is a 1965 model so I'm guessing, along the same lines as for the TR4, ST could have used their paint stocks of
TriumphNew White to paint 4A wheels until they appear to have changed to silver sometime later for 1966 vehicles.I will try and get a photo to post later.
Also good to see the steel wheel size clarified that the 4 1/2 J only came in for the TR5 and not as often misquoted for the earlier cars
Cheers Rich
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Rich - also check if your axle tubes are slightly loose in the diff housing - if you have any oil leakage around that joint, then that's a good indication they might not be fully tight - I think you can weld them in situ but others with more experience will know better.
Cheers Rich
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I have a very original 1965 TR4A which has been dry stored since 1981 and that has white wheels, not silver. I am 99% confident they are original as the spare wheel is the same colour, but they are NOT Spa White, and I can say this with a degree of confidence because my TR4 is Spa White and the 4A wheels are a much creamier white - in fact the car (4A) is
TriumphNew White and the wheels look very similar in colour to the body colour.Make of that what you will!
Cheers Rich
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9 hours ago, Tim T said:
Do you have a link to this please as I cannot find it.
Thanks
Tim
Tim - here you go:
Cheers Rich
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Tim - that's great - i'm contacting them to get more info and will report back
Cheers Rich
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When Drew Pritchard arranged the restoration of the white TR4 in his classic car restoration tv program, I'm sure he fitted a fibreglass surrey top and backlight - the program showed it being made but it didn't appear to be a Honeybourne one - as they were doing a lot of work with Revington at the time, do Revingtons have someone making these for them - if not, can anyone confirm who the manufacturer was in the program?
Cheers Rich
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Rob - there should be a small rectangular tag spot welded to the bulkhead below the pivot arc of the throttle lever coming through the bulkhead - it has a small hole in it which the end of the spring locates in - not sure if there is a different spring arrangement for LHD cars as there is an extension rod which comes across from the nearside.
Cheers Rich
Gear selector and fuel pump
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Colin - that's as good a reason as any! Do bear in mind, for modern safety's sake, to fit an accident impact circuit breaker so the power is cut off to the pump in the event of an accident - I know all the old classics from the 50s/60s/70s which ran SU electric pumps didn't have one but all moderns do - admittedly their fuel systems do run at higher pressures that the old systems
Cheers Rich