rcreweread
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Posts posted by rcreweread
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Hi - I thought these were more like steel sleeves which fit inside the rubber grommets, very similar to the arrangement for the engine fan mounting on the end of the crank - there used to be someone regularly selling a kit on ebay but I can't find it now - a similar kit ( but it has slightly different components) is here:
Cheers Rich
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3 hours ago, Grahamgl said:
Gentlemen,
The progress of my 1962 Triumph TR4 progresses. The car has been dismantled down to the chassis and I have started to send the removed parts away for restoration to experts who have been recommended on this forum.
My first invoice for the restoration of a part has arrived, and I am thinking perhaps I should change my approach and buy new parts. In this instance I can buy a new unit for less than £100, the restoration of my part was in excess of £300. Prices quoted for restoration of the hydraulic parts are similarly higher than the cost of new items.
What are the views of members that have trodden this route before me please?Graham
Graham - as a generalisation, I would always prefer to recondition an original item, than buy a repro. What did you have reconditioned for £300 which you could have bought new for £100 - that does sound like a big difference which would be difficult to justify in normal circumstances.
You mention hydraulic parts are more expensive than repro ones - just look on this forum with all the issues people have experienced with long pedals on repro calipers, and master and slave cylinders not lasting long. When you consider how long lasting many original parts were, and then compare that with many modern repros, I bet the the reconditioned OE part will prove more cost effective in the long run, and even the medium term.
In my experience, OE reconditioned hydraulic stuff is about double repro stuff which I think is good vale- typically repro calipers are around the £60-£70 mark and master cylinders around £50-60 odd - I sell my Past Parts reconditioned calipers for £100 and typically master cylinders for a little less.
I don't want to make this a sales pitch for my parts, so I'll just say other items I think are worth doing are lever arms, steering racks, AC Delco Fuel pumps, OE Water pumps, dynamos, starter motors, wiper motors, radiators , chromework to name some of the items.
I've spent the last 10 years sourcing the best reconditioners, and where not possible, the best suppliers of the best parts, and I've happily shared this with the forum but I have to say it's been a long hard battle to convince people of the benefits - you can lead a horse to water but .......................!
Cheers Rich
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1 hour ago, tim hunt said:
I need to replace both front side lamp lenses on my 4A. It is unlikely that any original Lucas items are to be had so can anyone recommend a source of decent reproductions please?
Tim
Tim - a bit cheaper but not "Lucas" whatever that is worth today - there might even be a club discount with Motaclan
https://motaclan.com/product/lensrim-side-lamp-tr4-5_510897_1701_0/
or
Might also be worth trying David Manners Triumph - https://www.abingdonmgparts.co.uk/product/side-lens-white%3a--tr4a%2c-tr5%2c-tr6/510897
I think they may also give a club discount
Cheers Rich
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I have tried to address this problem as well - my bottle was quite yellow and also had a lot of rust staining which I partially removed in the dishwasher. I then got a vapour blaster to have a go and it definitely removed some of the yellowing and most, but not all, of the rust staining - he did both inside and out but it was still a bit patchy.
I'm not at home at the, moment so cant show you any photos, but will try and get some when back
Cheers Rich
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Adrian - if you are not worried about the paint under the underseal, then I found the easiest way was to use a 1-1 1/2 inch steel flat bladed scraper and just round off the corners a bit so they don't dig into the steel, and then chip the underseal off with a sort of stabbing operation using the corner to get under the underseal, and then it sort of flakes off leaving the paint underneath intact apart from scratches from the stabbing operation.
I tried the heat gun and solvents approach and ended up with a gooey sticky mess - the above method is completely dry ( wear some goggles) and actually quite quick once you get the hang of it -I found it best to use a fairly stiff bladed scraper to get maximum impact.
Hope this helps
Cheers Rich
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24 minutes ago, Phil Read said:
My 4A has 165r15 tyres that need replacing. I have been offered 165 65 15 Michelins as a replacement. Is this a suitable size?
Phil - in short , no. Stick to original profile - 165/80 x15 - the handling will be much nicer and your Speedo will still be accurate
cheers Rich
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1 hour ago, Grahamgl said:
Richard,
How does this company compare with Andrew Turner please? I want the SU carbs off my early TR4 reconditioned together with the operating mechanism.
Thanks
Graham
Graham - I think you would struggle to find a difference between the two in terms of their quality and finished product - Glen has done a few complete H6 set ups for me over the years with no issues as far as I am aware.
See attached photos
PM me if you want further info
Cheers Rich
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John - why don't you contact Glen at GW Carbs in Bicknacre, not very far from you, who do a superb job of reconditioning both H6 and HS6 Carbs - they will also bead blast your manifold and sort out all your linkages so they come back better than new
https://www.sucarbs.co.uk/gallery/
GW Carbs:
07803 593126
Cheers Rich
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Phil - I was led to believe that aTR6 14W wiper motor with a 105 degree cog was just right for a TR4A installation with the original 4A wiper boxes
Lots of Clsssic Bits near Stansted sell good quality wheel boxes for our TRs but they do cost - often on ebay
cheers Rich
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Been and checked my parts bin and you can definitely see the bumper bracket Besalu has is a correct TR4A one - from the attached photos, you can see the holes difference between a TR4 and a TR4A
Hope this helps
cheers Rich
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Hi - TR4 & TR4A front bumpers are not the same in as much as the over riders are in different positions, hence they have different mounting hole spacings. TR4 over riders are closer to the centre line of the car whereas 4A ones are much closer to the headlights.
I'm pretty sure the bumper you have is a modified TR4 one - the irons behind the bumper are also different.
If I get a chance, I will take some photos of the different bumper irons/brackets.
Cheers Rich
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Didn’t TRF have several of the Le Man TRS cars and a stock of Sabrina engines? If they have been destroyed, that will be a major loss to the Triumph community.
Fingers crossed they were somewhere else
cheers Rich
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Phil - Speak to Tom Cox at Pete Cox Sports Cars in Redditch who can overhaul your diff and will replace any worn parts etc. Give him a call in the new year:
https://petecoxsportscars.co.uk/
Pete Cox & Son Sports Cars
Unit 25 Peltland Trading Estate, Padgets Lane, South Moons Moat, Redditch, B98 0RB
E: enquiry@petecoxsportscars.co.uk T: 01527 522 646 - Work hours only.
Re your driveshafts, if you can get underneath the car with some safe working space, grab each side of the sliding joint in the middle of the driveshaft ( under the gaiter) and if you can feel play when you twist each side in opposite directions, then that will almost certainly mean it will "clonk" in use.
Many people are successfully using the CDD joints and we are still waiting to hear what caused the recent failures which have been reported, so it is probable premature to dismiss them just yet - there are other similar CV jointed shafts available from other suppliers many of which have been mentioned on this forum. You can of course replace with new like for like parts but the cost is pretty much the same - if your hubs are fine, then an interim position would be to just replace the splined driveshafts, but avoid the very cheap basic ones - uprated driveshafts with Rislan coated splines are available from TR Shop or direct from Proptech in Kidderminster .
Hope this helps
Cheers Rich
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8 minutes ago, John Morrison said:
just so,
Saloon box input shafts are different diameters, saloon is smaller.
Plus spigot bush, if you want to run the saloon box you need the TR clutch housing for the TR flywheel, but the saloon driven plate
for the saloon input shaft, know cars that have run this way for twenty years or so.
Differences at the output end, O/D Tail casing is different, Chassis mount is different as is the internals of the O/D its weaker than the pukka TR one, and the
output flange hole pattern is different to the TR one.
Sure there are more, but these are the main ones I think.
John.
Also the speedo drive is for 14" wheels, so the speedo will be inaccurate.
By the way, is it an A or J type overdrive? Can you post the serial numbers of the OD? They should be stamped on a plate riveted to the body of the OD. If it's a J type, the reduction ratio is likely to be 25% but could be 28% - the serial number will reveal
cheers Rich
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2 hours ago, harrytr5 said:
Always high quality parts from Rich.
No connection but a happy customer.
Regards Harry
Thank you Harry
cheers Rich
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1 hour ago, Steve-B said:
How long does the service take Stuart?
Steve - when I've had then done, typically 1-2 weeks
Cheers Rich
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Now SOLD - however if you are still interested in a crank, I will have two more available in the new year - they are currently being assessed and reconditioned by Ivor Searle - they will have reground journals, assuming crack testing is ok, but I won't know until they are done - they won't be as expensive as this one just sold, but until I get them back, I won't know exact cost - I wasn't intending supplying bearings with these cranks, but that can be changed if necessary - if interested, PM me Cheers Rich
Just a quick heads up that I have just listed a very nice 4 pot crankshaft on Classifieds - it has been fully checked over by Ivor Searle, and was found to only need a polish on all the journals which are standard size. They crack tested it, cleaned out the oilways, fitted new bungs and then balanced it - it is also comes complete with King heavy duty tri-metal bearings for all the journals.
Link to Classifieds here:
Difficult to know what something like this is worth, but with new cranks at Moss costing over £1400, and the bearings being worth £150, I've priced the crank at £1000 plus the bearings cost - happy to discuss
Cheers Rich
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I'm sure Ken or Lyn at https://www.carrestorationpaints.co.uk/ will be able to sort you out with both advice and paint if you need it
Cheers Rich
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Phil - it is NOT Old English White - it should be Triumph New White, but I'm afraid I haven't got the RAL number
Cheers Rich
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To avoid confusion in the future by those reading this thread, I am guilty of misleading people by calling the "other" white colour in the thread "Triumph White" when I should have been referring to this as "New White" - I have gone through the thread amending this incorrect info but I can't edit a post when it has been quoted by another poster, so please be aware of this
Cheers Rich
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On 12/14/2023 at 1:11 PM, John Morrison said:
Richard distance shouldn’t matter
the O/D should work soon as you are in appropriate gear and at sufficient revs
John
Hi - I'm sorry, but in my experience, this is not totally true - if the oil level in the gearbox and OD has fallen to the extent that the OD is "dry"and stopped operating, it can sometimes need a run of up to 20-30 mins to get it going and purge any air out of the hydraulics within the OD - once it starts operating, then it should engage/disengage almost instantly on being operated .
Cheers Rich
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Richard - the oil level in the gearbox/OD does not find its level naturally when first filled or topped up - the reason it goes down after initial use is because it gets pumped around the overdrive and that fills up some areas which aren’t reached by simply filling.If you empty a gearbox/OD unit by undoing the gearbox drain plug, you would be surprised how much oil still comes out of the OD unit, but you have to tip up the OD end.
if you can only just see the oil on the dipstick now and you havent yet driven/used the OD, I would be inclined to put a bit more in
cheers Rich
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Here's one on fleabay- bit more expensive than 1.49 euros though:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385820767562
cheers Rich
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44 minutes ago, Colin Symonds said:
Rich, Indeed, I had Simon fit one last year.
Colin
Good call
cheers Rich
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Heater to Plenum Spacer
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by rcreweread
Laurence - the sleeves go inside the rubber grommets - on a TR, all 3 grommets and sleeves are the same size, which in turn are clamped between the heater frame and bulkhead by 1/4 UNF x 1" bolts going through the middle of the sleeve.
If your rubber/foam seal/gasket between the inlet opening and the plenum outlet has fallen to bits, it's easy enough to make up a new one with thick draught sealer from the likes of Screwfix/Toolstation and the like.
The ones Andy provided a link to are polybush ones, hence the expense -I'm not sure they are totally necessary - I wouldn't be surprised if your spacers are still inside the rubber grommets!
Cheers Rich