dingle
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Posts posted by dingle
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I noticed that keyways on a TR4A outer axles are 1/4" compared to 3/8" for the TR6. Probably the change was made to cope with the extra torque. Not sure if it would matter unless the car is flogged or raced.
Berry
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I switched the wire from the turn signal indicator light on the speedo to the brake failure light. It is red, much bigger, and gets my attention.
Berry
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I have had success in stopping this leak by using a rubberized gasket material (1/32" thickness) made by Victor Reinz and hylomar sealer. The permatex sealer became hard and brittle despite being labeled "non-hardening".
Berry
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Here's an article on re calibrating the speedo by changing the strength of the magnet. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-40/TR6-40.html
Berry
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Why not just get a hex or socket head plug?
Berry
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It helps to cut a piece of plywood to fit the floor pan to prevent marring it. Might not be necessary when using a lift.
Berry
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Here is a site that gives approx compression ratio vs head thickness-https://www.goodparts.com/tr6-compression-ratio/
Berry
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Here link to an article on the hard top restoration. It has much more detail than the factory fitting instructions. http://www.74tr6.com/hardtop.htm
Berry
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Thanks Waldi. If you currently own all of the cars listed by your name, I don't know if I envy or pity you. That would be a lot of mistresses to be a slave to.
Berry
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I might be wrong, but from memory I don't think there is a threaded lock ring. The lock is held in place by a clip that snaps in place. If the gasket isn't available, it should be possible to cut one from gasket material. I think Waldi's link to the Moss retainer is a good solution. Being cheap and retired, I made a copy, but haven't installed it yet.
Berry
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Another culprit could be a split or hole in the diaphragm. It will cause a rich mixture. Also, make sure the jets are centered and that the pistons rise in unison,
Berry
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I have done the same repair (maybe front&rear). I used NC bolts and painted the heads red for identification.
Berry
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1 hour ago, Mike C said:
Hi Berry,
I have a hole in the tunnel cover but I still have to remove the H frame and carpet to use it-- checking from underneath proved to be much easier.
I'm interested in what you've done to access the hole through the carpet. This would save me jacking up the car, overfilling, dropping to drain excess oil the jacking back up again to replace the plug.
I am able to just lift the carpet to expose the plug without having to remove the H frame. My carpets probably look a bit frumpy, but are not very visible to other eyes. Also, since I am a yank, it is on the drivers side.
Berry
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1 hour ago, Malcolm Clarke said:
Hi Roger & Nigel,
You have rather confirmed my concerns as to leak stop. Can see it potentially solving one problem and creating a far bigger one (as in us overdrive)
I will also check out breather, as in is there one and is it able to.
I have monitored the leak for a while, its not disasterous, more of a niggle, and plays on the mind a tad, if going any distance abroad. Whilst I have carried out many road side emergency repairs in odd parts of the continnog, topping up gearbox oil might be a bit tricky.
Malcolm
A bad leak in the GB/OD made me paranoid about the oil level dropping too low. Checking it while travelling was inconvenient to impossible. So I drilled a hole in the tunnel cover opposite the fill plug so the oil level could be checked without jacking up the car and crawling underneath it. I fitted a hex head fill plug and the whole checking/fill process takes only a couple of minutes. The hole in the tunnel cover can covered with a jack hole plug. Even though the OD leak has been fixed, I still appreciate the ease that the oil level can be checked.
Berry
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2 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:
Thanks Berry.
Any idea where you might have read it?
Gavin-I can't recall the source. Removing GB top cover (easy job) should give more room as will removing the steering wheel. Good luck.
Berry
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Actually, I have read of the J type being removed&replaced without removing the trans. Simpler than trying the same stunt with the A Type. Might be worth a try. The clutch springs are contained in the OD/adapter housing, so shouldn't be a problem.
Berry
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I changed to SU HS6 carbs many years ago with no regrets, but no performance gains either. I like the simplicity of the SU, the ease of accessing the float needle valve (in case it becomes clogged, the ease of adjustment, and the fixed needle. Even with all of the SU needles available, it still requires fiddling with the profile to suit various engine mods.
The choke mechanism of the ZS carb is easier to operate, the throttle shafts have replaceable seals and ride in steel bushings. But the o rings in the damper and the float chamber have a tendency to leak. The temp compensators and throttle bypass valves can be disabled to eliminate problems.
Both carbs have their weak&strong points and are more similar than different.
Berry
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Doesn't the Goodridge brake hoses have a Teflon liner?
Berry
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To me, the main advantage of the quick connectors is to be able to quickly disconnect the battery when smoke is leaking out of the wires.
Berry
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2 hours ago, RogerH said:
The TR4/4A crank pulley is a spilt affair and can easily be fitted 180 degrees out.
I have some form in this department.
Yes Roger, that was my experience, I fit the pulley with the key up and couldn't understand why the pistons weren't at TDC.
Berry
Roger
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Any chance that the pulley was installed 180 deg. off? Remembering back when I had a TR3/4, the pulley (and TDC mark) is installed with the crankshaft key pointing down instead of pointing up, as on most cars. This results in the TDC hole on the pulley actually being at BDC.
Berry
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Is the clutch shaft different for RHD/LHD cars?
Berry
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18 hours ago, Deggers said:
Is it maybe more likely for a Spit?
Sidescreens having this?
Deggers
My first TR3A, a 1960 purchased in 1962 had a radio/speaker like the one pictured. I don't know if it was a factory or dealer installed option.
Berry
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I think the only difference is that the keyways on the inner axles are narrower on the TR4A than the TR6. The assemblies should be interchangable.
Berry
Gearbox removal - tips please
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I have found that using the line pins (as shown in a previous post) and making sure that the gap between the bellhousing&engine plate is equal all around, is the secret to painless mating of the 2 components. Needless to say, the clutch plate much be accurately centered on the flywheel.
My first attempt at replacing the transmission (many years ago) took several hours and much frustration.
Berry