dingle
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Posts posted by dingle
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Mike-The TR6 engine was derived from the same family as the Spitfire, which also had half circle thrust washers. I am not sure if the TW were a problem on the Spit, but the stiffer clutch required on the 6 could be the cause of TW problem. Too bad the factory didn't full circle TW early in production, as the cost would have been minimal.
Anyway, I monitor the TW wear, keep my foot off the clutch when starting the engine, and have never had over .002" wear every 5 years plus. Last year, just out of boredom, I installed one of Scott Helm's bronze TW. It should outlast me.
I noticed that Scott uses a mill to machine the bearing cap to add a TW. I made a simple fixture to do in a lathe and used on an extra block, but didn't try it on my daily driver.
Berry
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Mike-I am guessing that the bronze alloy thrust washers made by Scott Helms (custom thrust washers) are either phosphor bronze or silicon bronze).
Berry
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I decided to cast originality to the wind and drill&tap the handle&shaft for 8-32 or 10-32 stainless steel countersunk machine screws. If you have a lathe, it is an easy job to make drill bushings to center the holes in the handle and shaft.
Berry
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Mike-The thrust washers are 3.047" OD and 2.588" ID.
Berry
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1 hour ago, John L said:
Isn't the plain portion of the VL above the thread, surely an important part of the 2 items, that must be considered, not so much the thread itself? That part supports the thread surely, would be good to get some dimensions of these 2 diameters, and see what clearance is obtained, looking at the recent phots of the VL's on here don't look that good at this part.
This will also show up if the VL is not straight, when turned on the car, as identified by Mick Richards, in a previous useful thread here.
John
Good point John-I will check the unthreaded area on both the trunnion&VL upon diassembly.
Berry
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So, with the wheel off the ground , the axle nut tightened to eliminate all end play, I have about .014" play measuring at the rim with a dti, and grabbing the wheel at the top&bottom. Is this considered excessive?
Berry
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I have noticed in my red TR2-3 service manual that the clearance for the trunnion is .002" to .008". I am not sure how much that would be at the wheel.
Berry
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Colin-I use a 6" extension and socket to insert the plug. Cutting&binding the flap was done when new carpets was being installed. Doing it with the carpet in place would be more challenging. If the carpet is out of the car, an upholstery shop would do the binding for a small fee or maybe some sort of glue would work.
Anyway, I think the project for accessing the fill plug is well worth the effort.
Good luck, Berry
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I went one step beyond adding a hole to access the fill plug. Recently, when installing new carpets, I cut a flap (about 3"X4") in the carpet to make access easier. The edges were bound and is not very visible because of the location. The A type OD installed has never been leak free and I check the oil level frequently. A hex head brass 3/8" NPT plug is used.
Berry
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Stuart-I suggest you contact Mcmaster-Carr in the US. They are small quantity friendly and ship internationally. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rivet-nuts/
Berry
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I use an allen head plug on the diff plug along with a 2' extension. It requires removing the rt rear wheel, but eliminates crawling under car . I use a hex head plug on the gearbox and a hole in the tunnel cover for access. I am in the process of cutting a flap in the tunnel carpet for easier access to the plug. All of the plugs are 3/8" tapered pipe, which is very common in the states.
Berry
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The handbrake assembly (used on TR4A(IRS)-TR6 cars) has to be removed whenever the gearbox tunnel cover is removed (old 1 piece type) and replacing the handbrake lever is always frustrating on reassembly. This is because the spring loaded rod comes out and is not easily determined how to get it back together. The pictures in manuals and catalogs aren't much help. Anyway, an excellent detailed picture and description is shown in a Buckeye article on "Rebuilding the handbrake assembly". The problem of difficulty when reassembly is caused by the pawl moving far enough to allow the allow the spring loaded rod to slip off. The factory addressed the problem on later cars (a 1976 assembly is shown) by dimpling the lever to restrict the pawl movement). The author of the article duplicated the effect by drilling&tapping a hole for an 8-32 screw. This is shown on page 2/4 of the attached article. The location of the hole is .5" from the center of the pawl pivot pin and .5" from the bottom surface of the lever. This eliminates one source of frustration when replacing the assembly. It also helps to chamber the fulcrum bolt to get it through the 2 nylon bushings. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5d0192d28ed02e0001593962/1560384211953/Overhauling+Handbrake.pdf
Berry
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Most likely the person who fitted the OD utilized a top cover from an earlier car that was drilled&tapped for the 2nd gear isolator switch or decided to add it.
Berry
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Driving the TR6 daily or frequently is the key to reliability.
Berry
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My US Moss catalog has caps in all of the usual panel colors. It is listed with the panel hardware.
Berry
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16 hours ago, Chris59 said:
Me think the problem was different in your gearbox, ie the main shaft lip was .875", this is corresponding to BH1412 cup needle bearing inner diameter.
BTW, the solution might be to reduce the input shaft inner diameter, and use a 150989 open needle bearing : that's some food for thoughts !
Chris-You are right. I misread your first posting. My OD mainshaft pilot was .875" and the pilot in non OD mainshaft was about .833"
Berry
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Chris-It looks like we took approached the problem from different directions.
Berry
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Chris-The bearing I used was a Torrington BH 1412. It is a drawn cup bearing, which means that the needle rollers ride on the cup, not the sleeveThe OD is 1.1875". The sleeve was made from mild steel since it was not a bearing surface. I think the input shaft bearing pocket was enlarged slightly to remove wear and to provide a thicker walled sleeve. The bearing surface of the input shaft was very hard and required carbide tooling and very low speed.
Berry
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Chris-I did that job many years ago. Since I have a lathe, it was an easy job to make a sleeve. I don't know if one is available from a supplier. Perhaps you can find a "friend" with a lathe to make one.
Berry
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Also, as noted in the discussion on the Triumph Experience forum, the owners manual for the Tr6 states that to engage reverse " Move the lever sharply to the extreme right and rearward".
Berry
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It is not uncommon to find a tooth or 2 missing on the nylon driven gear. Fortunately, they are now be reproduced and available from this place in the states-
https://www.odometergears.com/products/Smiths-Jaeger/All/38
Berry
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Isn't it just a 1/2" ID copper crush washer?
Berry
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Dave-Here is a link to person in the states that specializes in the thrust washer problem. https://www.customthrustwashers.com/
Berry
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Not a major mod, but cutting a hole in the trans. tunnel makes accessing the gearbox filler plug much easier and checking the oil can be done with the car level. Use a floor pan jack plug to cover the opening.
Also, use a 8 point 7/16" socket or better yet change to a hex head plug.
Berry
Crankshaft thrust bearing conversion
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Harry-I did machine the main cap of an extra block. Later, I gave it a person in need of a block. He had Scott make a bronze TW and as far as I know it is in service.
Berry