jogger321
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Posts posted by jogger321
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Thanks for all your help on this..I'm going to do the flush after the bank holiday as the weather looks good for driving the TR6 rather than spanner it...
Final question...Should I remove the thermostat when doing the flushing...Does it have any merit doing this?
Many thanks
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I've often wondered too!.... There must be someone thats into the conkers thing :-) where everything is perfect as left the factory that has a pic they could post?
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Hi Ian & Waldi thanks for that info....Ian that picture is extremely helpful...Just wondering what your arrangememt for attaching the cable to the new valve was as its not completely clear in the photo
Thanks also for suggesting a secondary method of opening the bonnet...I have fitted the moss emergency arrangement ta
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Ok getting there...I cleaned the thread of the tube and sprayed some wd40 on it where the Four seasons screws into and also used PTFE tape as suggested and have now managed to get it in ok
Does anyone have a RHD car with it fitted that could post a picture of the complete engine bay so I can see the angle that they have it in relation to the rubber heater pipe that it attaches to and the cable (how far screwed in)
Did people manage to use the existing inner and outer cable as at the moment it seems slightly short (might be because I have it screwed in too much a 1/4 of a turn or 1/4 too little??)
Many thanks
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1 hour ago, Z320 said:
For this case I recommend to you to buy a "Knipex water pump pliers",
both (water pump pliers and pliers wrench) will make you happy for the rest of your life - and your inheritors too.
Yes...but my inheritors won't be pleased that I spent all that money on them :-) :-) :-)
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Thats really helpful thanks ...Unfortunately I have slightly rounded the nut on the new one already :-(
I'm going to clean out the female thread and also use ptfe when I try again
On reflection the old one was really difficult to turn anticlockwise right up until its last thread and removal.....Mind you probably hadn't been moved for over 40 years!!!
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Seems an incredibly tight fit screwing it in...Don't want to damage it or round the nut
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Just got around to this job and got the old one off
Does anybody know the correct size spanner I should be using to fit the Four seasons valve I purchased from the states as none of my spanners so far are the correct size!!
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5 hours ago, foster461 said:
You may have a plug or a tap at that location but in either case there is a good chance that when you remove the plug or open the tap, nothing will come out because the rear cylinders are all silted up and the exit is blocked.
Stan
Hi Stan...If that is the case and its all silted up what are the options?
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1 hour ago, iani said:
Thanks for that Ian
The "Restore" seems to be sold by quite a few vendors on Ebay but nobody seems to sell "Restore Plus" and as far as I can see on the link you gave me their online shop is da dead link1 hour ago, iani said:Have a search for "Restore Plus", watch a video of how it works and then if you decide to get some you can order it from here: http://www.filtrationcontrol.com/filtration/fleetguard/
Note that there are two products:
Restore - good for cleaning out oil/gunk
Restore Plus - good for removing corrosion
Ian
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Thanks for that...Very useful...Is this the bolt you mean please?
I don't have access to a water supply with a hose....Can you do it with just a watering can do you think or do you need more pressure?
Are you suggesting you have the engine running whilst you are doing this (sorry i'm a novice)
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What stuff do people use ....My car is running ok and not overheating but has not been flushed for over 30 years!....We only changed the fluid and put antifreeze in when we got it going again last year
My concerns are buying stuff that does to little or buying stuff that is so strong it causes leakes!!
Many thanks
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My TR6 when I bought it in the early 80's had this bullet mirror fitted. Unfortunately last year as I was driving along the glass mechanism fell out and was promptly driven over by the car behind.
I'm struggling to find a replacement as I don't want to drill any new holes in the door and want to use the existing holes which are Bolts 25.4 mm apart. I.e. 1".
can anybody recommend a mirror or a source as all the ones i've seen so far have different spacing to mine
Many Thanks
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Wow & Wow
I finished fitting the lever arms that I had refurbished at Stevsons this morning and have just come back from a forty mile drive enjoying the weather today. Its possible that my lever arms had completely worn out before being refurbished (i.e a lot worse than yours!) ....however all I can say is the car feels transformed...Instead of all the bounce, bounce, bounce and wallowing it was doing before at the rear it is no longer bouncing and feels so much more sure footed...I feel a lot more confident in it now and its also far more comfortable..I kept the standard coil springs....Stevsons have uprated them between 15 & 20%
My conclusion as i'm not taking it on a track or going hill climbing is that I'm extremely pleased to have kept the lever arms and didnt just do a knee jerk and go for a telescopic conversion
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Welded from what I remember ...and stripped the weld and ended in it rotating inside the chassis and very inacessible....so go careful :-)
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Interesting video...Thanks for posting
Whilst I appreciate it is about the lever arms...The method of torquing the link arms 1) lever arm to top of link arm (tapered) 2) Bottom link arm with rubber bushes to trailing arm is not shown. should this be done with the wheel on the ground and full weight of car on ground or with no weight i.e up in the air ....The brown bible is unclear ??
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I got the impression when I talked to Mr Stevenson that the method he used to uprate the lever arms included putting a shim of some sort against one of the internal springs in the lever arm mechanism and wasn't about the oil
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Ok I have now got my Lever arms back from Stevsons. Very old school establishment. As has been mentioned by a previous poster he is rebuilding the ones for Rimmer brothers
Before I refit them it occurred to me that since the Lever arms have been now uprated by approx 20% should I be looking at changing the existing standard rear coil springs to an uprated item or stick with the standard springs?...I'm only interested in road driving ...no hill climbing or competition work
If you uprated your springs what did you go for? What about the pads at each end of the spring did you replace those as well?
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I've decided that as the plan is never to sell my TR6 to have a complete bare metal respray. The body is good with very little rust but the paintwork is not. It currently consists of an assortment of paint shades in acrylic and cellulose paints..
I'm about to start approaching some body shops and am looking for advise on the pitfalls on getting this done
Can anyone recommend anyone in the west midlands area that they have used and are happy with the result?
If you had your car resprayed and were going about it now what would you do differently if anything?
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Thanks Z320 ...Very interesting about the link arms...I see somebody else has come up with another improved design?
https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=914 -
My Tr6 was put back on the road last year after being in my mums garage for 28 years (long story!) We obviously did an awful lot of work to make it road worthy and useable and it passed its MOT....I managed 2700 miles in it last year and it never left me by the side of the road so have been very happy
Today I took full advantage of the unusually warm weather and worked in the garage on the 6 and removed both Armstrong lever arms as these were not touched in the restoration last year..
I've decided to keep the suspension the same i.e I'm not going the telescopic shock absorber route and am going to get the existing units refurbished by Stevensons in Birmingham
My question is a lot of threads on this topic mention "uprating" the arms during refurb.... What does this mean exactly and how will that tranlate into the feel of the car on the road if I get this done....It does beg the question if uprating is such an improvement why didnt they leave the factory like that?
The car is used on the road keeping up with modern traffic but I have no intention of taking it on the track or going hill climbing in it....Thanks for your help
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I'm still trying to an outer boot that doesn't start to disintegrate to powder after six months....Any recommendations as I've had two from different suppliers that were absolute rubbish!
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I got my TR6 back on the road last year after 28 years sitting in the garage...It's a 71pi with A type on 2,3 & 4
You can imagine getting a vehicle roadworthy after all that time and extensive refurbishment would result in some problems
The main problem was an intermittent working overdrive that eventually stopped working all together. The solution was a replacement overdrive gearbox harness that sorted the problem 100% which I documented on the forum fixing it.
I can honestly say that having experienced having an overdrive and not having an overdrive working on my car I would never go back to driving a TR6 without overdrive by choice
The main part that in 4th gear non overdrive the engine is buzzing so much that in the end I didnt drive it until I fixed it
When you are in 4th normal gear and sgift into 4th overdrive the whole thing becomes a more relaxed drive as the revs drop
I have no experienceof the J type but my A type with its new solenoid, wiring loom, correct oil level and adjustment...I'm happy with how it performs it on a nearly 50 year old vehicle
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Do a search on my postings....I did a write up of the problems I had with my intermittent A drive not working and how I eventually solved it
Heater blower only working on low setting
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by jogger321
My TR6 after a 28 year lay up got back on the road last year after a lot of work and I've driven over 2,000 miles in it since
I'm just now trying to sort out some of the more minor issues with it
I've fitted the upgraded heater valve and also last week replaced the metal bulk head heater plate as my old one was very corroded and I could not get one heater rubber pipe to stop weeping...Thats all sorted and its dry now
This afternoon I used the heater blower for the first time! ....Its a pull out switch that has 3 settings ...Off, Low and High
Mine seems to work in OFF ok and on LOW (the fan runs) but when I pull it out to the High setting the fan appears to switch off
Does anyone have any ideas please on how I should start tracking down what might be causing this please? Thankyou