jogger321
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Posts posted by jogger321
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Same here...I had my whole PI system overhauled a couple of years ago and have had no problems whatsoever (touch wood)... I do know though that modern fuels tend to "go off" a lot quicker than the old stuff...I always leave at least half a tank in it when not using it and start it up once a month
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Mine is NOT for sale ...I've owned it over 30 years...however the values seem all over the place..I've seen PI CP models for sale recently between £7000 and £35,000!
How you value one accurately would appear a finger in the wind touch IMHO -
6 hours ago, stallie said:
I saw my old post in here looking for one and I thought it might be relevant to post the cure. I never did get around to getting the fuel pressure tester, as I found the cause...
PI system, Bosch pump with its own direct wires. Car would be very random in starting, sometimes unsuccessful, other times it would just fire away. Fuel pump couple be heard whirring away as expected pre start. Once going it ran like a dream.
One day, I thought I'd go back to square 1, I got the lad to hold his hand on the pump while I cranked it over. Bingo. It stopped. Somehow in rewiring the ignition, when it went to Start, the pump stopped, but when released back to ON it started again. Of course the pump going quiet was masked by the starter motor, and was back whirring before the starter stopped spinning....
So Stallie...Did you manage to find a solution...if so what did you do.....Why do you think when the pump was held it cut out?
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Are these condensors in a green box with white stripes on by any chance, because I have one of those along with two other green boxes one containing a new set of points and the other a new rotor arm in my glove box....plus of course some fag paper for setting the gap!
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On a slightly separate note...I remember reading how leaded petrol provided lubrication for the rotating parts of the metering unit...and that using unleaded would cause the metering units to fail...
I've never put any lead additive in my TR6 and just run it on supermarket 95 Ron and so far no problems...although to be fair I've ony covered about 3k since I got it back on the road
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9 hours ago, Andy1966 said:
I have one of these in my TR and to be honest its Ok, my only criticism is the FM station strength is not good at holding the reception, its got Bluetooth and you can charge your phone etc.
Amazing value for money think I paid £15 delivered
Andy was it easy to install ? I'm not great with electrical wiring...do you have to convert to modern car electrical sockets for the power and speakers?
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I realise it a cheapy from china ...but it kind of looks the part and i'm sure will sound better than the 35 year old cassette radio in my car
Has anyone tried one of these out at all? -
I recently bought a pair of MK1 seats from Paul Bishop that he has overhauled and recovered in gorgeous blue leather...I'm absolutely chuffed with them and paid Paul £650 for them...He doesnt send seats through the post though now...you have to pick them up
Runners as recommended by Paul... £100 from TR Trader
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https://groupharrington.com/brand/triumph/page/2/
Not sure if any money is saved buying direct...plus if it arrived damaged that would be fun sorting that out sending it back etc
I'd personally buy from a uk supplier such as TR shop -
2 hours ago, PodOne said:
Hi Both
Given all the problems with the pumps Lucas or Bosch has anyone run a modern in tank pump where it will be cool along with adjustable external pressure regulator/gauge similar to a modern EFI set up?
Andy
With a proper Bosch pump set up, a clean fuel tank and the metering unit/prv/injectors/throttle bodies reconditioned by someone like Raven Smith there really are not a lot of problems to be honest...and I speak from experience...and we are talking a 50 year old vehicle here too
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Hi Don't want to hijack this thread...I own a 71 CP UK TR6 and I never knew there was a rod. I've always opened my metal scuttle lid by hand externally...It opens and shuts ok this way and is on a spring
If I do have a rod where would I see it in the car...If I don't does it mean I just need the rod and will it be easy to fit with everything in situ?
.....Edit ...Sorry should have read the thread more thoroughly before my original post.....No sign of any lever on my car near the H frame...and I notice that the lever is not available at moss either -
Thanks for the info. Good news they have all come out without any studs snapping or threads stripping...I'm a meer novice at this stuff... A few of the bottom bolts securing the throttle bodies were tricky to remove as in I couldnt get a 1/2" socket drive on them. I bought a 3/8" extension bar and used that along with the correct socket and sorted it..
I have ordered a Payen gasket and will reassemble with graphite grease the studs and both surfaces of the gasket...
The other good news was that the manifold easily came away from the head giving enough room to remove the exhaust gasket...without further dismantlement of the exhaust system
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Thanks chaps...A quick look just now .....I've just put penetrating oil on each nut.... I've tried to turn them all and it appears the nuts are all seized but without much brute force they are turning because the stud is also turning (i.e coming out siezed on the nut).....I haven't broken anything yet
Will this method be ok if I simply replace with all new studs and nuts etc?
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The TR6 Pi that I put back on the road after a 26 year gap of storage has been behaving itself really well the last couple of years covering nearly 3,000 virtually trouble free miles...
Last week I noticed what I believe is a slighly leaking exhaust manifold to engine gasket...The two nuts (top and bottom) holding it nearest the bulkhead were loose...I did tighten them up and also all the other nuts (which moved) however we still have the leak so I guess i'm going to have to remove the manifold and throttle bodies in order to do this.
I wonder if there are any tips on the best way of going about this...I'm concerned about snapping the studs on the head and also throttle body realignment? on reassembly.
The gasket i'm intending to purchase is one of these...Should I use anything on the mating surfaces?
Many thanks
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Loosening engine mounts to change a fan belt? Thats the sort of thing you would expect to have to do on a modern honda car along with needing a special tool...but surely not on a 50 year old Triumph?
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My experience having dealt with a lot of these cottage style companies in the classic car world... is that there are a lot of really good craftsmen out there that excel in the quality of their work but are rubbish at running a business and all it entails...
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PLEASE CAN ANYBODY HELP!!!! - UPDATE
Yesterday I posted my side of a dispute with Classical Dash regarding supply of a wooden dash for my ’71 TR6PI. Ian Bond – owner of Classical Dash not surprisingly told me last night he has a different story…. Anyway:
Last night a fellow TR enthusiast – having read my story and felt my frustration - took it upon him to build a bridge between Mr. Bond and myself.
I CAN TODAY CONVEY TO ALL OF YOU THAT WE HAVE GENUINELY SETTLED THE DISPUTE AND THAT A DASH IS NOW IN MY POSSESION!!
This is very good news and means I can look forward to my “soon to be” retirement giving me time to finalizing the restoration of my TR6.
Why did it come to this? As often with human beings; my general statement is: - lack of proper communications. What you say may not be what I interpret you are saying….
Before I get too philosophical, the message from my friend, who is storing the dash until my next visit to UK, is that the dash in burr walnut looks stunning and for sure would be to my likings!!!
Special thanks to those of you that has assisted in the closure of this dispute!!
Halvor Asland
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Hopefully Classic Dash will see this either on Facebook or on this forum and take up the opportunity to respond to these allegations?
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I ended up driving my 6 down a country lane in the dark for the first time last night...and what an experience that was!
The car passed an MOT last year and on dip beam although not brilliant the lamps do point down at the road in what appears to be roughly the same height for both beamsmain beam seems to be a different story though...looked to me like one was pointing away from the road and too high....Is this possible or just my imagination?
Is there an easy way to check this using a garage door rather than paying a garage with all the kit? If so how do you do it plus how to the adjusters work on the lights?
Many thanks
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I need to replace the window outer rubbers on mine. In fact one of mine is completely missing and the window rattles around when up.
What is this mythical tool spoken about? :-)
I guess if my name is Peter I'd be known as Peter no Tool?
If anyone has one they'd be be prepared to loan I'd be more than happy to make a contribution towards the cpost of the original as I suspect if I buy one I will only use it once for this job
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When my engine tap on the block started weeping I did buy a new replacement but chickened out fitting it as it was very tight.
In the end I got my local engineering shop to tap the thread on the actual screw in tap and put a larger bolt in it with ptfe...and put the old one back in..
I'm getting better at working on these cars but still regard myself as a complete novice... But I really didn't want to strip or damage the thread on the engine block!!
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Thanks for the replies guys...I've just ordered a set from the TR shop with soundproofing/underlay and a fitting kit. I will use contact adhesive as suggested..
I guess I'm going to have to make some holes in the carpet for bolting the seat runners down... What tool or how did people go about doing that? I realise a stanley blade is an obvious way of doing it...but did folk use another method?
Many thanks
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Having got my TR6 (which i've owned for 30 years) back on the road last year and mechanically not bad i'm now turning my attention to the interior
I'm looking at fitting new carpets to replace the orginals which are pretty moth eaten and very worn out on mine
I'm pretty handy but was just wondering if somebody that has replaced their carpets could give me a guide as to the challenges I'm likely to face when doing the job?
What materials do I need to buy (apart from the carpets) to do the job? I'm thinking of putting sound deadening underneath the carpet..I notice on my floor plan there are male studs poppers in some places where the original carpet pops into and hold it in place ...Does new carpet come with these or is this something you have to fit on the carpets and floor for the new material.
Is glue required...If so which sort...any additional trim needed or replaced?...Finally how do you deal with the carpets and where runners bolt through the floor in relation to making holes for the carpets ...or do sets already have the holes predrilled?
Many thanks
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I've sorted it!. The switch was wired incorrectly at the back....I think its possibly me that did it that way when was driving the car every day 30 years ago!....Couldnt afford a workshop manual in those days and probably thought that looks about right!
Anyway I got the wiring diagram out yesterday and changed a couple of the wires over and now its howling a gale at high speed like a good 'un !
Parts Disapointment
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I'm sure I read somewhere of somebody offering a proper restoration service for the original enamel badges? Probably not cheap but possibly a whole lot better than some of these awful "pattern" badges around?