Westy
-
Content Count
84 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Westy
-
-
Thanks Harry. Good to know. If I still lived in Hemel Hempstead, I'd probably have joined the NLG for a pint in Chipperfield!
-
Thanks all - makes sense. Will probably take this opportunity to revert to lever arm dampers.
-
So, here is my TR4A in the garage having the rear half-shafts replaced. While the wheels were off, I noticed that the top shock absorber bracket on both sides are bent upwards and cracked. I don't honestly know how long it has been like this but how could that happen? If the springs are taking the load and the dampers are, well, just damping then my simple thinking would assume that load on the dampers is quite low. I fitted these dampers about 8 years ago and don't remember the old ones seizing - is that possible? I'd assume that they'd lose pressure with any leakage and become softer, not harder. Any ideas anyone?
-
Final report and perhaps the end of this thread. I found the fault. Without exchanging the fuel pump or replacing the fuel. It turned out to be.....spoken in a hushed tone...a dodgy HT lead on cylinder 2. Connections at either end were good but I suspect the lead had broken down in the middle. I will fit replacement Magencor KV85 leads when they arrive - in 6 weeks! Thanks for all your advice. I learned a lot. Not least, to try one thing at a time and start with the cheap fixes before spending any money!
-
Yes, I did Marco
-
Hello all,
I thought I'd give you all a bit of an update on progress. I haven't gone through the full jobbing list but I have: -
- Swapped out the NGK plus for Champion L87 but that has made no discernible difference
- So, too when I took out the fuel filter and replaced with a single uninterrupted length of fuel pipe
- Checked both float chambers (a few small metal filings but nothing serious) and valves closing OK when I manually raised the float and blew down the open end of fuel pipe
- Checked the ignition coil as per technical advice posted in this forum by RobH May 2021 using an ammeter/voltmeter
- The central lead from the distributor to the coil looked well connected but I opened up the push-in fitting to ensure a tight fit. I have some Magnecor KV85 ignition leads on order just in case
- Not sure how to check the SU dash pots for oil but I unscrewed them both and push back in and with about 1cm to go, met resistance/damping. Does that seem right?
My car is fitted with twin SU carbs, not Strombergs. Next I will empty the tank and put in some fresh fuel as suggested early in this thread, check the fuel lines are clear back to the tank even though I did this a year or so ago when I experienced a similar issue and replaced the fuel pump. Talking of fuel pumps, TR Shop in Chiswick mentioned that a few of the fuel pumps they used to supply (with plastic screw nut below the fuel chamber - like mine incidentally) have reported as failing and they now supply a pump with a brass screw nut. I ordered one, just to eliminate that from my enquiries. So think it must be bad fuel or perhaps the fuel pump. Getting closer but no cigar just yet.
-
Thanks - I'll work my way through the list. Didn't think of the fuel but yes, could have filled up at a supermarket (my memory is hazy these days). Changed one thing at at time and no noticeable difference each time. Had NGK spark plugs in there and swapped for the same NGK BP6HS from The Green Spark Plug Company. Will let you know how I get on...
-
I took my TR4A out for a long weekend run in the Cotswolds with friends and it ran perfectly. That was a month or so ago. Now, however, it's not. I can't think what has changed. It fluffs and hesitates under acceleration and feels really quite rough when it used to be silky smooth. When warm it would idle smoothly at just under 1000 rpm, now if falters, coughs and splutters. Last time I experienced a similar problem I put in a new mechanical fuel pump - that was less than 2 years ago. I have done the following to try and cure the issue: -
- Put in new NGK spark plugs and set gap at 25 thou'
- Swapped out condenser, rotor arm and contact set (from distributor doctor) and adjusted points gap to 15 thou'
- Checked for spark to each plug with inline whatchmacallit thingy
- Crudely checked vacuum advance by sucking down pipe (seems to work OK)
- Ignition coil is relatively new and battery is good
- Checked for fuel supply through glass inline filter that I added when I renewed fuel pump (yes, the glass bowl of fuel pump is full with no debris). I disconnected the fuel line, put a plastic container underneath and turned over the engine and saw fuel spurting out of the fuel pipe. The float chambers were full of fuel too. The mechanical primer under the fuel pump, worked on release of the lever, not actuation - is that right? Maybe the fuel supply is a bit erratic? Maybe I should consider fitting an electric pump?
So not sure where to go from here. Any advice anyone? Please........
-
Hi, Just thought I'd update you all as I know you're simply dying to know on my success or otherwise. I went through MKTR's checklist and got to the third item to discover that when I depressed the follower screws with my fingers away from the cams and then operated the choke - lo and behold the choke worked smoothly with no sticking. It turned out that one of the clamping screws was loose on the throttle spindle (top right in first photo) and had slipped around so that when operating the choke, the cam was attempting to open the throttle from the "get go" (as our fellow American friends like to say) which required too much effort and so it got stuck. It seems that the shaft is allowed to freely rotate a little first before it gets to the point of operating the throttle as the pin (fixed to the clamped bent arm) is smaller than the slot in which it resides. I wish I knew all the correct terms for the different component pieces but hopefully you get the idea. If someone could tell me what position the screw should be relative to the cam with the choke fully in (e.g. screw in line with straight edge of cam or offset slightly?) I'll then be able to set it up correctly now the mechanism is working. Thanks!
-
Thanks everyone. I am going to have another look at it over the weekend armed with all your advice and suggestions. On a separate note, I ran the car out to Babington House from Bath tonight (no, I am not a member) and had forgotten how much fun it is to drive at night especially on a summer's evening. Is it my imagination or do the cars breathe more easily when the air is warm and a little moist?
-
OK thanks all - I can sleep easy now. I hate not knowing...
-
I have been clearing out a few old boxes of bits and came across these bushes. Problem is, I have no idea what they are. As I have owned a couple of TR6s, Spitfires and more lately a TR4A, I am scratching my head wondering when/why I bought them. If it helps, the bolt is a 0.5" UNF and 3" long. The length of the round tube is 1.5". They look like black poly bushes. Perhaps for rear trailing arms? Does anyone recognise them?
-
Mmmm....Thanks Roger but it's not the cable as that operates smoothly enough. Badhuis - I did have a look underneath the carbs and watched the lever as I manually operated the choke but I still get the stickiness before the lever starts to pull on the needle (which it does about half way through its arc). So I guess it might be friction between the rotating shaft and sleeve or between the shaft and other bits of the mechanism - but seems strange that it has two distinct sticking points (choke fully out, choke half way). I guess there's only one way to find out. I'm going in....
-
Having managed to successfully sort a few nagging issues with my TR4A (fuel supply, electric fan and overdrive) and now feeling pretty smug with myself, I thought I'd push my luck and try and fix the last remaining issue of a sticky choke mechanism. I have always had to start the car with a good inch of choke but when I push the choke back in, the choke mechanism doesn't return fully without me getting out of the car, lifting up the bonnet and giving it a bit of manual assistance. It's something I have learned to live with, but it's a bit annoying. So I first tried lubricating the moving parts with WD40 - no change. I disconnected the choke cable and checked its operation - all seems to be smooth. But the mechanism itself still has a couple of points where it sticks (fully open and about half open). So as I look at this thing with its return springs, sleeves and levers I am wondering if I should embark on stripping it all out and cleaning and oiling all the parts or whether there is an easier route. Do I have to remove the carbs to dismantle the mechanism? Is there a service kit I should get? Better still, is there an easy fix (I love those best of all)? If it makes any difference I have SU HS6 carbs. Any advice please?
-
OK, got it. Couldn't quite figure out why I had one piece of 5/16" ID rubber pipe being used to meet 5/16" OD copper pipe from pump at one end and 1/4" OD connector at first carb. So, I'll swap 5/16" pipe from pump to carbs for 1/4". Beginning to feel like the Danny Kaye, pellet with the poison sketch there for a moment! Thanks again.
-
Ah..I see. Makes sense - thanks Roger! P.S. Do you get a gold TR badge when you hit 25,000 posts?!
-
The copper fuel pipe on my TR4A is 1/4" OD between the carbs but 5/16" leading up to them. Does anyone know if this is usual? Does it even matter? What size should the pipe be? I am in the process of checking and replacing the fuel lines and pump to surtout an issue with fuel supply. Thanks!
-
Curious but your first post and description of symptoms is almost identical to mine "Starting / ignition / starter motor problem?". Not poor connections in my case, just a new battery needed.
-
Well, Rog and Mike were right. Although I recharged the battery using an Optimate 6 smart charger and it showed 12V on the multimeter, it didn't have enough grunt (Amps) to make any difference. I bought a classic Lincon battery (model 291/11 - a thing of beauty, only company in the UK still making batteries) delivered dry, filled with acid supplied and charged in 3-4 hours using the same Optimate charger - bingo! All is well with the world. Thanks to all.
-
OK, thanks - will give that a go and let you know how I get on.
-
I have 12V at the battery terminals. I'll check Ignition switch as Roger suggests. If not the switch, how do I unjam the starter motor? Hit with a copper hammer?
-
Hi all, I've been absent for a while but then my TR4A has been reliable - until now that is. I dropped my son at cricket, came back, parked outside the garage, switched off the ignition, opened the garage doors and turned the key to start the engine and nothing. Well, a click noise but the engine didn't fire into life. Ignition switch feels OK, red light comes on, goes a bit faint when I turn to position 3. I think it could be the ignition switch or the solenoid on my WOSP hi-torque starter motor. Any ideas anyone?
-
Thanks. Just pulled Enginuity's invoice - they replaced with EP80W90 in Sept 2011 so will try topping up with same. What does GL4 mean?
-
I did replace my lever arm dampers with spax shocks on my TR4A and it made a noticeable improvement to the tautness of the back end, handling in corners and less bounce on bumpy roads / pot holes. Having said that my car is fitted with over-size tyres because the previous owner wanted to fill that ugly gap you mention but didn't recalibrate the speedo so I am always travelling faster than indicated! A purest would keep the lever arms, I chose to change and have no regrets. Perhaps you've already made the decision?
Shock absorber bracket - does anyone know what would cause this?
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
James - I found a receipt for a couple of rear uprated springs (TT4216) from Moss in my files just before I bought the car in 2011. I think they lower the ride height by about 1" and I assume are slightly stiffer.