Richard Crawley
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Posts posted by Richard Crawley
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They are absolutely perfect really! Slightly smaller rolling radius than original but otherwise the best possible match you can get for 5 ½ J rims. 195 is nearer the original RR match but you really need 6J rims to take full advantage; but then I would go to 200.
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Was waiting to see if anyone else responded as I’m working mainly from memory. I’m pretty certain it’s BSP, possibly 1/8” or 1/4” & if I’m thinking of the right bit, it’s a pre formed U tube with a push fit rubber hose return connection the other side. I can’t remember if it’s a compression (olive) fitting (&, yes, you can get them usually in brass) or a pre-formed flair fitting. An olive isn’t listed, even in the BL manual so it may well be pre formed flair.
Thanks for the PM, still considering it!
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He wouldn’t really have needed to change much apart from the carbs & fuel feed system; practically everything else is either the same (including the bits that matter) or will work equally as well with carbs. You could still have all the requirements to take full advantage of PI conversion intact so you need to establish exactly what you’ve got.
In my opinion, as an origina PI, it’s already broken
so you might as well "fix it" by converting back to PI, especially if you have all the bits
You say the previous owner has “given you all the bits to convert back” but what, exactly, has he given you?
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so far I've dismantled 2 hinges by tapping out the pin which was very easy
I need some 8mm rollpins at least 50 mm long all i've found are 40 mm length ones!
cheers
john
Don’t remember it being that easy as the pins were peened over & had to be drilled out; perhaps someone’s been at yours before! You should be able to get hold of them, have look in your local Yellow Pages & go visit the nearest fixing stockist listed. They are usually located on small industrial estates & stock virtually everything; they are mostly used by the local trade industry but they won’t kick you out & are usually very accommodating. I got mine at the Local Ford main dealer (we had Fords at the time), just browsed around the bins & picked out some likely candidates; but that was a while ago. It was an unusual set up then & the idea was to save counter staff time but maybe nowadays the “just help yourself” society has stopped all that.
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After the engine was run warm I removed the rocker cover and took the thinnest blade on my feeler under each rocker arm when the engine was
running, starting from the front ,its a bit scary , but I discovered the ticking rocker arm this way.
Adjusting “running” with the appropriate size feeler gauges is a very quick method & I used to do it all the time with old motorcycle engines; these had a covered rocker with access through a screw cap. You start with a cold engine & will have finished the lot by the time it warms up enough to close up the clearances to any appreciable extent. The problem with it is acquiring a “knack” of adjusting the tappet on a moving rocker arm & it also tends to chew the ends of the feller gauges up especially if the rockers are worn. I have done it on car engines but you tend to end up with oil everywhere!
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I can’t remember the exact size as I bought several different pins & used the one that suited best. I have been unable to check the hinge pin itself as it’s absolutely atrocious weather here at the minute & I can’t open the car door enough in the garage where the car is peacefully slumbering to see it properly. I’ve looked in my “pin box” & I have 2 sizes; one size is 6.5mm (1/4” in old money) & the other is indeed 8mm so it may have been that one. What you should aim to do is remove a little metal as possible when you drill the old pins out so that allows you to drill ream the holes to the appropriate sizes for the new pin. The actual size of pin you use is not that important & will probably be dictated by the appropriate drill sizes you have/can get hold of; the main body needs a tight clearance fit & the top & bottom holes an interference fit to hold the pin in place. I believe I used a combination of metric & imperial drills but I do have some odd sizes I picked up years ago which were cast offs from a Ford component production line.
Can you post a link to my previous effort as I’ve tried twice to find it without success; I know it was some years ago!
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hi Richard
thanks for your help,
have been on the phone and been asking questions, they do feel with copper (the good ones do any way) its then polished before it is rechromed, very labour intensive job the average cost seems to be about £50 each rear cluster could be more depending on how bad it is mine are not to bad, so i thought i would get them done before they become a problem
could you send me the address of the chrome-rs you have used please thanks.
if you can help the lads out with a bit of extra I'm all for that.
Richard when you reed this could you help me out with my electrical prob posted , thanks .
pink
The company is "D F King", phone no. 01268 695672 - located on the Charfleets, industrial estate, Canvey Island, Essex. Have to go out now so no further time; will post abck tommorow soemtime.
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The electroplater won’t know the state of the casting until the existing chrome is removed. They simply chuck steel components into an acid bath but I would think this unlikely with Mazac so I’m not sure how they tackle that bit; grinding or linishing possibly! As Stuart suggests, I believe they use copper plate to fill any pits, then polish & finally plate; its quiet labour intensive. I think it’s probably pointless attempting any repairs yourself prior to plating & you may end up making things worse rather than better.
The castings I had replated was limited to the front badge plinth & the boot release button; they did have some light pitting but came back absolutely perfect. The company I used for all my plating (both zink & chrome) does a lot of plating for car clubs including the Ford V8 club & regularly undertake repairing cast badges of 30’s + Fords & those fancy shaped bumper ends found on many yanks so they obviously have experience of this stuff. They keep the work completely separate from their commercial activities & it’s primarily done at weekends on overtime to boost the pay of the local lads. If Essex is within travelling distance it’s certainly worth giving them a look & they didn’t charge the rather stupid prices some of the specialist firms were quoting me!
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A quick search resurected this old post of mine but my original is still out there somewhere but if you can't find it I will have another go; My car is a 6 but the hinges are the same.
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I repaired mine by removing the the old dowel pins, drill reaming the holes & using hinge (roll) pins from a more modern car (Sierra I think); about an hours work. I posted on this quiet some time ago but a brief search didn’t bring it up; the search engine doesn’t seem very specific anymore in spite of using the advance options! You may be able to bring up the thread by spending a little time trawling through, if not I’ll have another look or explain more fully how I did it again.
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I assume that I set the toe in according to the bible, and not zero as per the trackrite instructions? Zero being true zero, and not the best set up for the particular car being measured, if you see what I mean.
Set the rear toe in 0-1/16 but err away from 0. When setting the toe in don’t forget to check the wheelbase at 2240mm. The exact dimension they end up at is not really critical but the wheel centres should be the same each side; this could prove the source of yet more embarrassment! The wheel centres are set by adding (or subtracting) shims equally to/from both brackets, which is the reason you usually find a pack of them in there. Use slave nuts initially & then change them for new Nylocks one at a time once youve finished setting.
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Negatory.
I've switched out factory brackets several times to obtain good camber attitude without ever needing to disturb the brake lines. Just undo the damper and remove the spring 1st.
Agree you don't need to remove the brake lines, just be a bit carefull how much you move the trailing arms around when fitting the brackets.
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Be very careful with who you entrust with chroming the rear light clusters, they are Myzac. This is a casting material that has a thin skin with a very porous interior & is difficult to re-chrome; if not done properly you could end up with a very miss-shapen & pitted surround or, at worst, the whole lot could dissolve like Alka Seltza on a Sunday morning!
Personally, I wouldn’t go anywhere near anyone advertising on "flea bay" for this sort of thing, re-chroming Myzac needs experienece & you need a recomendation. I know someone in Essex but not down South.
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Hi Simon & welcome to the forum.
Here a link; http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....&hl=bracing
typing “bracing” into the search engine will bring up more threads. You can bolt across the door aperture between the screen frame fixing holes (assuming you remove the screen frame) & the hood frame fixing holes, that’s how I did mine. I also built up a cross brace frame between the initial angle iron bracing; here a pic, of the reinforcing frame I used throughout the tub restoration.
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Hi Retro, welcome to the forum.
If you leave a PI for more than a few days it can spit & fart a bit when it firsts starts but it should take less than 20 seconds for all cylinders to be firing cleanly but if yours is still giving problems after 5-10 minutes then something else is amiss. As already said, pops & bangs that disappear when the engine is fully warm would get me looking at weak mixture or too much timing advance. You’ve already carried out many of the usual checks on the electrics, have you checked for air leaks on the inlet manifolds, throttle spindles & exhaust system & also check the timing setting? Check the colour of the plugs (what plugs are you running?) & check the condition/fit of the vacuum pipe running from the centre pair of inlets to the top of the metering unit; its manifold depression that controls the mixture. Other checks worth doing are to the fuel line pressure, low pressure could cause the problem but will also cause loss of power at high revs; but you will need a pressure gauge kit. Also check the spray pattern & for dribbling on the injectors but if it’s starting & running OK it’s unlikely as it will usually misfire at idle.
All the checks you need to do have been fully detailed on the Forum before so a look back through the archive posts will help but come back if you need more specific advice.
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Tappets can be adjusted either hot or cold & there are some manufacturers that specify hot clearances; it is, however, important that the correct clearances are used hot or cold. The valve clearances given by Triumph are for cold setting & will close up when the engine is hot; using cold clearances on a hot engine will increase the operating clearance, cause clatter, affect the timing & running of the engine & cause premature wear of the valves, rockers & even the cam.
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You can usually achieve the same result by using an appropriately sized ½” socket on an extension bar. I have accumulated several socket sets over the years & can usually find one that will fit; if not, a few winds of electrical tape will sort it out as you’ve discovered
. The “eyeball” clutch alignment tool is also one of the best you can get but can be a little difficult & uncomfortable to use if the engine is still in the car!
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Hi Richard
The std brackets used correctly with the shims should give you the correct settings ,I still do not like the idea of the bush not fitting square to the bracket
Your correct & it all worked perfectly well when the cars were new & both manufactured & built on jigs. Mostly, they would still be if more care was taken during restoration, mainly when replacing the trailing arm chassis sections (lets face it, is going to be most case these days) but in many cases the brackets are also fitted incorrectly because those who did it didn’t have a clue what they were doing! Other things can cause it of course; accident damage incorrect/shortened springs; spring packers etc. bent top spring support! Setting the camber up correctly these days is mostly about trying to overcome problems that others have created!
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Hi
As I have said before can somebody explain to me the reason for these adjustable brackets if the geometry can't be set with shims then something can not be right
Regards
Neil
You can't set the camber with the bracket shims; the shims are for setting the front/rear wheels centres & the toe in only. The camber can only be adjusted by interchanging the 3 different brackets available which can also be used upside down. The reasons why the camber is so often out has been highlighted on many archive threads, a read of which will explain all. All the adjustable brackets do is make life easier.
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I hope you get it sorted Trfella, I have all this to go through yet but am looking forward to it (for some strange reason...
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The advice given in this thread (and others), is invaluable.
Cheers
Tony
Never noticed it on your small avatar photo but that’s a pretty eye catching & bold choice of chassis colours you’ve got there;
nice though
. Should certainly keep you busy maintaining the look but I suppose you don’t get the amount of crud thrown at it down there that we have to suffer!
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Stan. I got told (by a company that should know) geasing is the correct thing to do at service and that oil is only used when putting in a new one.
OPPs
Naah; oil is specified & I know some use grease but you should never mix the 2
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Maybe this might help .....
Jean; I think Gary is referring to the lower wishbone arms & not the old chestnut, the "top fulcrum bracket". Good picture of one though & fitted the correct way around!
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It should point downwards, heres another for good measure;
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This question was cross posted in the main forum, so perhaps we could continue this thread there now that is has started to collect replies:
Oh ****
Window Winders and door handles
in TR6 Forum
Posted
This is a very old chestnut & you will find several solutions in this thread, all of which will work.
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....escutcheon+pins
Fitting he pins is a PITA until you develop the knack but it’s really not problem & certainly doesn’t warrant modifying any of the components involved.