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Richard Crawley

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Everything posted by Richard Crawley

  1. Following on from my original post; I have a "Lumenition" electronic ignition system fitted with a Lucas Sports coil, what do you guys recommend for plug gaps & should I set the gap on the 2 x BP5ES plugs the same as the BP6ES?
  2. I understand the rocker cover breather is attached but there is an in-line arrestor & in all the years I've had the car, I've never had problems with emulsification inside the plenum. Thre plenum was fine inside when cleaned, refurbished & rebuilt @ 82k miles & the car still hasn't reached 90k miles since but that's another story!
  3. Not sure what that would do as it's the clean air side of the throttle bodies so just clean & filtered air comming through there! I do keep the air filter in good order though.
  4. Decided to stick with standard NGK plugs in the end as cylinders 1-4 never seem to have a problem so have ordered 4 x BP6ES & 2 x BP5ES for cylinders 5 & 6. Thanks to all for your input.
  5. Oh thats interesting; I now seem to remember reading a post about this some years ago, maybe I'l try it.
  6. I've had my TR since 1975 so know all about "choke" control but the PI doesn't have a choke on the air supply, as in the old conventional style, it has an excess fuel lever on the MU which isn't quiet the same; that said, I appreciate over-fueling can foul the plugs & I appreciate firing up the car between infrequent runs is not ideal. My TR does have an uprated MU, supplied by the PI "Godfather" himself, which was regulated in line with my state of engine tune & the + fuel setting at higher revs probably isn't helping but exhaust pipe & plugs don't show signs of excessive richness
  7. Hi again, can those of you that have used NGK BUR6ET just confirm they do actually fit the TR6 as the dealers comparison chart says it doesn’t!
  8. Appologies; just had another look around & NGK BUR6ET is a 4 electrode so don't know what happened with my initial search! So Bosch or NGK? Thanks to all for input but what happened to the "thanks button"?
  9. Had a look up; the Bosch WR78 are 4x electrodes but the NGK BUR6ET appear to be single electrode!
  10. Oh, that's all very interesting! So is the general consensus, its all “hype” & not worth 3x the price? My 6 has only done limited mileage since completing it’s marathon nut & bolt rebuild in 2004 & this is mostly local with very few high speed, longish runs. I’ve been running NGK BP6ES but they seem to have a tendency to foul up fairly regularly &, as the plugs need replacing anyway, the “blurb” seemed to indicate they would improve things but maybe not! I note the comment re Bosch 4 electrode plugs; I used to run these in my old BSA motor bike many years ago with good eff
  11. Hi all. Anyone running NGK Iridium plugs in their TR6? My plugs need replacing & thinking of getting some Iridium NGK BPRE IX but the suppliers “look up” table only lists them compatible with post 72, CR engine, (125 BHP) & not the earlier, CP engine (150 BHP); my 6 is also stage 2 tuned & possibly nearer 180 BHP, although I've never had it on a rolling road!
  12. Hi all Having once been the Forum’s second highest contributor, unfortunately I don't visit much these days. I didn’t see Ian’s recent reply to my 2006 post but got a PM from Derek Graham yesterday (thanks Derek) drawing my attention to it & I’m going to PM Ian today. I will have to look at my forum settings as notifications seem to have been switched off some time ago as I didn’t even get any for my recent post about recomendations for a new cover; the forum format has also changed considerably since I was a regular. The 6 is still going strong & looks fairly good even thoug
  13. Thanks to all for the suggestions, after a look at several, I went with Ken’s (Poolboy) recommendation & bought an Evolution premium edition cover. An internet search quickly found a supplier with a UK website without any problems & I ordered one after being offered an additional 10% discount. It actually shipped from Stafford TX US, free postage by Fedex International & arrived just 3 days later. If I’d realised it was coming from the US, I probably wouldn’t have ordered due to possible customs charges but was surprised it didn’t attract any. The cover is now fitted & loo
  14. Thanks John, re-read the article & very interesting. There seems to be more covers than ever on the market since I bought my current one some 18 odd years ago from the Register shop but it doesn’t actually seem to fit the bill as far as the TR Action article goes! I would also guess that some may also have dubious origins these days & without seeing/feeling it, difficult to tell quality. Has anyone got any specific recommendations for a cover they have used/are using?
  15. Unfortunately the "Wash & Go" didn't work & I now think the dust is actually comming from the cooton fabric itself breaking down, so it seems to have had it. I've just spent a small fortune having the car professionally "refinished & detailed" as I can't be bothered any more (sad!) & so will be looking to get a new cover. I may need to store the car outside temporarily for a couple of months & so was thinking of a decent quality outdoor cover, assuming they can also be used inside when the TR eventually gets it's garage back; do they work equally as well inside? This leads
  16. Sorry, I've only just seen the posts, they were all going into my spam box. Thanks to all for suggestions; didn't occur to me it might actually be the original sealer breaking down! Think I'l give the Tech Wash a go.
  17. I've had my Moss, indoor dust cover over my TR6 for many years & it still looks as good as new. It's been cold washed using no detergent many times over the years but this seems to have reduced it's effectiveness in keeping out the dust & I've increasingly noticed the car gets covered in very fine dust particles when left for a while over winter. These are obviously so fine they are getting through the fabric & onto the car, anyone had this & know how to restore the cover to it's original dust proof effectiveness, maybe a Lanolin, Silicone solution or other magic potion to save
  18. I will use my car any time of year if the weather is dry but after having had to cut out & repair so much rust in the chassis & body during restoration (completed in 2004), I took a conscious decision not to use it in wet weather; although I have been caught out in the rain a couple of times. I bought the car in 1975 & drove it into the ground as a daily driver over 11 years until 1986 when it finally expired but it was rather a disappointment when, after a marathon 18 year restoration, I finally got to drive what was basically a brand new car in 2004. I then realised how antiquate
  19. Yea, noticed that; what's all that about? As long as it's clear the post has been edited & when, why remove the facility!
  20. Sorry about the delay in replying, I'm running a VPN here in Spain & notifications don't always get through. It might be possible if you have a nice 3 or 4 post lift & can get fully underneath but lying on your back under the car it will be a tall order. It is a PITA but you will make much better progress & do a much better job to drop the diff out & do it on the bench; there is a bloody great nut holding the prop shaft flange on that also has to come off to fit the seal. I used a smear of bearing Loctite on the outer edge of the seal for extra security. Also check the diff mou
  21. It's actually Sappire72's car, I just quoted on his pic. This is my car:
  22. That's spot on, although my rear box sits a bit higher & the tail pipes are about 1/2 that distance from the valance. Not sure what the hell went on with the text spacing on my last post!
  23. SS is bloody hard but I agree with others not to use heat; unless you wan't to go the professional route, I would beat out as much of the damage as possible & cut off what’s left of the visible damaged as you are happy with. But if you cut too much off, the exhaust fumes will not escape the rear of the car, get sucked back into the rear end vortex the car creates & result in black staining on the rear valance & lights & possibly allow exhaust fumes into the car. The distance the tail pipes extend the rear of the car can be surprisingly critical in blasting the exhaust gasses cl
  24. That would seem to exclude a diff problem; sounds to me like a UJ breaking up as they will move slightly when you compress the rear suspension with the car stationary. From what you've said, there may also be problems with the half shaft splines, these can wear significantly over time, especially if the rubber gaiters have split or been neglected. Sounds like a rear end strip down & rebuild might be on the cards, this will also give the opportunity to check out the diff. The original front oil seal was leather & I could never get these to seal without weeping (& yes they were soake
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