Richard Crawley
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Posts posted by Richard Crawley
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I did refit mine but I’m not convinced they actually achieve very much if anything so unless you’re interested in originality, I wouldn’t be overly concerned.
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As another wanabe TR6 owner I,d like to say thanks for some really useful advice.
Welcome to the Forum Andrew; I see your UK location is in my neck of the woods
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Many years ago in America when transporting New cars by rail from one State to another thousands of miles away they found front wheel bearing problems showing up shortly after sale.When investigated,the problem was found in the cars motion of rocking back and forth during transport by rail causing the bearings to get a flat spot.This was solved by a different manufacturing process by Timken including micro grinding/polishing the bearings.I now actively seek out Timken bearings.What I do find strange is the inner bearings are still manufactured in America(perhaps they can only micro polish)and the outer parts are manufactured in France but all bearing (excuse the pun)the name Timken.Just love these.
Regards Harry TR5 Nutter.
I can remember being told about this little gem by our Engineering tutor many, many years ago during a study lecture on finishing techniques.
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Try TRGB or TR shop, they hold loads of 2nd hand parts.
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For the UK, have a look under "Bearings Stockists" in your Yellow Pages or local trade paper; there is almost certainly a stockist somewhere in your area, usually on the local industrial estate. They stock or can quickly get hold of anything you want & the prices are usually difficult to beat. I have always used them for all my bearing/seal requirements.
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I think this is what your looking for on the indicator, found on mini spares part number 508162
http://www.minispares.com/Shop.aspx?ty=sv%...tle%3dElectrics
Regards John
Errm, I don’t think so;
unless I'm seriously missing something, I don't see how a Mini front indicator rubber is going to fit a TR6 side repeater let alone a front side lamp!
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Caveat emptor (buyer beware) is even more important with a car of this age &, apart from the obvious basket cases, cars in the lower/mid range of the market can be the most dangerous. I’ve spend most of my life “hobby trading”, maintaining & repairing cars of one sort or another & the exterior can easily be made to look very nice but it’s what’s underneath that counts; “all that glitters is not gold”. Unless you really know what to look at on these cars, you could easily buy a bodged up pile of junk that will need 000’s spending on it to put it right.
Couple of things already; as Ivor says, lead balls is “a load of old balls” & it’s probably the remains of one of those “catalyst” products that supposedly made WW2 Spitfires much faster than the Meschersmitt. But if the car has been used hard for any length of time without continuing use of a LR additive, the head could be due for some attention. Big gaps down the side of the bonnet doesn’t bode well either & points to some form of restoration. Inevitable these days but it should be done properly, anything more than around 6mm is not good news & if the gaps are uneven, even worse. Uneven door gaps can also be difficult to sort out &, again, points either to poor restoration efforts or could even be chassis problems.
I’m purposely painting a black picture & the car could indeed be a bargain but until you have the experience of knowing, it’s easy to get caught out. There are loads of good 6’s around these days so read all the literature, get someone who knows 6’s involved & look at as many cars as you can before deciding & historic vehicle tax free status is now worth having; remember “fools rush in”.
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Ah, I see.
If what Richard says above is still the case, I have seen this spongy/rubbery stuff for sale in quite large strips (adhesive one side). I just can't think where though - sorry Pinky.
I'll have a google, 'cause I was thinking you may be able to cut your own out of this stuff if you still can't get hold of proper ones without buying a lens too.
Edited to correct terrible spelling
We seem to be talking about to 2 different things here; Pinky is referring to the moulded rubber boots which are fitted on the back of the front & side lamps & prevent water getting into the lamp units. The rubber gasket you’re referring to is only fitted to the rear lamp units as the innards are enclosed within the boot space.
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Not sure what the current situation is but both the front & side light rubber covers were unobtainable on their own around 4 years ago when I was trying to source them for my refurbished lamp units; you could only get them by buying complete new lamp units. Likewise, I’ve not seen the rubber/plastic adjusting screw retainers on their own & are only available with new head lamp bowls.
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OOPs - didn't realise I was in the TR6 forum - I'm talking TR3!! But aren't they allthe same anyway - ie - no oil seals?
The 4, 5 & 6 are the same but I don't know about the 3. Triumph may well have specified grease for that car & I believe grease is also specified for the Spitfire & Lotus also used grease in their trunions.
From what I've managed to find out, it seems the reason Triumph specified oil was due to concern that a lack of &/or poor maintenance & the extra weight on the front end of the later TR’s. It seems grease (of the time) when neglected did a very good mimic of Araldite as it aged & could not maintain sufficient sheer strength to act as a suitable lube film within the trunion. This lead to very stiff steering operation & there was service experience of some vertical links sheering at the top of the trunion; probably not a nice experience.
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The Halogen replacement units use bulbs & most of the TR suppliers should stock them although you may get a better price from one of the classic light specialists. I bought mine at one of the classic shows but can’t remember how much I paid. I also have a pair of “as new” Lucas, Square 8 spot units; like Ian's they were originally wired into the main beam circuit via a relay & worked very well but not wanting to drill holes in things since the resto I have not refitted them; making some brackets is one of those “to do” jobs once I’ve finished pouring time & money into this house resto!
As for driving with unnecessary/illegal use of fog lamps,
I don't know what the law is in the States but it tends to bring on a personal attack of “Victor Meldrew” syndrome in me; they should all be pulled over & spot fined.
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Similar to Guy, I have direct replacement Halogen units fitted & they make quiet a difference. I find them quiet adequate but I suppose it depends on what your used to with your daily modern.
I actually prefer the foot switch!
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I believe there are two types of front spoiler, fibreglass, or moulded plastic. I have the moulded plastic type and i'm hoping a wipe with some silicone or some of that "back to black" stuff will smarten it up a bit. I expect the fibreglass type will need a coat of flexible paint perhaps?
I have an original spoiler, circa 1975 which is indeed black moulded plastic & is currently living in the loft; they really belong to the later CR series & so I never re-fitted it. You can paint them but a special primer is required &, I believe, an Acrylic paint finish; perhaps Stuart will know for sure.
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Any ideas best place, best price for replacement rockers?
You need to be careful with the quality of repro rocker units (& even some of the shafts for that matter!) as they can wear very quickly. I was lucky enough to find an original set of rockers & shaft still in the BL boxes & they sometimes still turn up.
I paid £30 for the lot some years ago but I’ve no idea how much they would cost now; check with the suppliers & take guidance from the more trusted ones on the best to use. If I was in the position of replacing with non OE, personally, I would spend a little more & go for proven spec. UK manufactured or even race quality units.
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The rocker surfaces are only case hardened I’m afraid & whilst it is possible to dress them to remove light wear, the case hardening is usually not very thick. The thickness can vary depending on the quality of the original components but I would be not recommend grinding off more than around .010” & even that may be too much. No way of telling how thick it actually is or when you’ve gone too far but wear will be very rapid once you have & then you also have the problem of metal slivers in the oil system.
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Sorry Chap....didn't mean to upset you.
Erm, you didn't upset me!
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Sorry to be thick about this (forgive me as I don't know much about cars and have only had my TR6 since August 08) but are you saying that in order to get hot air into the car you have to raise the flap behind the bonnet on the earlier CP cars?
Would be interested in knowing as my fingers were about falling off whilst out driving mine today!
Yes; open the flap when your heater is on & it could prove to be a revelation!
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Sorted this today.
Lined up the holes, stuck a small allum key in one end of the pin hole and used angled surgical pliers (they grip and lock) to hold the pin and pushed it home from the opposite end.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Thanks for the replies.
Allen key, coat hanger, welding rod, screw driver, what the hell; as I said & as you’ve discovered
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The grille was there. Now it's in a box on the shelf, and I have a flap thing which is firmly sealed and screwed down and going to stay that way. Whoever decided it was a good idea to ventilate the heater by a means that involves letting water into a steel box doesn't get my vote. I've seen the pics of the consequent rust, a restorers' job creation scheme.
Therein lies your problem! If it’s screwed down, you won’t be getting any air into the heater & no air in = no air/heat out! I’m not saying the plenum flap was the best of ideas as far as potential rust was concerned (&, lets face it, BL didn’t exactly care!) & the later “open grill” affair just made things a whole lot worse. It was fitted, presumable, because some owners couldn’t actually figure out that you had to open the flap to get air circulation through the heater in order to allow it to work! Any heating/ventilating system has to circulate air in order for it to function correctly & in our “more enlightened” age, it’s just a question of not opening the flap if it’s raining!
So the air will be allowed in in via a different route.What route did you have in mind?
But while the heater is out for the necessary mods, I would like to fit a bigger fan. Guess I could check it by setting up a blowing competition.Whatever capacity fan you fit won’t make any difference unless you can get the same amount of air in as you wish to pump out. The standard heater doesn’t require much air displacement for it to function more than adequately, just unblock the vent & it will work. It’s a basic fact that unless a heating/cooling system has a > equal supply of air, it won’t be efficient!
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Hi all!
I have spent this sunday overhauling the rear axles of my TR6. Cleaning and painting the axles, 4 new u-joints and new flexible rubber.
I am now ready to put it all back to the 6. The splines look OK. There is a very little "play", but I think not more than must be. Can anyone tell me what kind af grease will be the best for the splines?
Thank you in advance and a happy new year to you all.
Tage
Use the thickest you can get; I use Castrol "thick grease" (it's actually called that!) which has the consistency of treacle; replace every year for clonk free splines!
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Does anyone happen to know the output, in cubic feet per minute, of the heater fan?
I have in mind replacing it with this, at 104cfm,
Unless you have a blocked heater matrix, the standard heater should be very good even by today’s standards. With an earlier CP car, the vent flap must be open or the heater will never work as it’s the only way for air to get into the unit; no air in = no air/heat out. I believe you have a CR with plenum grill so, I guess, the heater matrix is stuffed or you have another problem; either that or your getting to an age where your beginning to feel the cold!
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Depends on the corpulence of the door cards.
I’m referring to standard fitting & if much thicker door cards are used, then it will quiet obviously make a difference; but why fit thicker, non standard door cards!
Unless things have changed since I bought mine, repro’s from a reputable source are “as original” & I can only imagine the thicker door cards are as a result of a DIY re-trimming effort or if the doors have been subjected to specialist upholstery treatment.
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They should be metal. There have been several repro variants over the years so materials, construction and color all vary. I prefer the one piece all metal enameled versions.
The undoubted originals on my car were plastic but I’ve also seen metal die cast on original UK 6’s, the wing badge was not unique to the TR so I suspect there were many supply sources for BL. Both plastic & painted die cast (I don’t think they were enamelled) were available when I bought replacements many years ago but I couldn't find any with the blue background as dark as my originals. I suspect the die cast ones are long gone unless you can locate some originals at an auto jumble.
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I bought my 1971 UK, CP car when it was around 3 years old, it was original & totally unmolested. Measurements taken from car before resto were;
• 52 mm from the rear edge of the wing
• 125mm from the top of the sill swage line
The 125mm is slightly different to Derek’s, maybe due to his being an American car or maybe it just wasn't that important!
Radator shround to wing stays
in TR6 Forum
Posted
No idea, possible I suppose; they certainly arn't capable of providing any structural stiffness. It does seem that someone went to a lot of trouble to fit them & make them handed for what doesn’t appear to be any practical purpose; perhaps it was some junior design engineer’s thesis or pet project.![:unsure:]()