Richard Crawley
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Posts posted by Richard Crawley
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I think there could be a debate on what to use in a trunnion?? oil or grease!!!
All the cars I have had, that have had trunnions,the book has said to LM grease them!!
Oil to me doesnt seem logical
as it is liquid,and would gradually leak out!!
When I heard that a TR's trunnions were supposed to be oiled,I put it down to a misprint in the manual or mis-information heard fourth hand!!
It all depends on which workshop manual you have!!
LM Grease being a lot thicker than oil will take up wear,and stay put longer!!
There’s already been several Dave! It should definately be oil in the later TR's but I also did some digging around a while back & posted further info which highlighted why Triumph changed from grease to oil for the later TR models & also mentioned several other cars (Herald & Lotus) have always used grease in what amounts to the same trunions. I can’t find the topic (good search engine ours!
) but have search if you feel inclined; basically, it stems from the weight of the later cars on the front suspension, concerns about what happened to grease with a lack of maintenance & some early failures which prompted the change.
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Depends what the other side is like; if it’s still good then no but if it’s also showing signs of wear then you might as well do both sides. If you’re replacing the trunion, replace the seal & in all probability the trunion bearings; unless they are nearly new they probably won’t take kindly to being disturbed. Inspect the threaded part of the vertical link for wear & check for any pitting or corrosion around the top of the thread just above & below the seal. Make sure the new trunion doesn’t bind on the thread but is not too loose.
Personally, I’d do a thorough check on the whole front suspension system & asses how tired it is; if it’s all a bit loose, you may do better to strip & replace the lot!
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I hope KN use the same style tube nut, as this will work well with spacers, just in the right size
Spacers
hmmm, another potential safety hazard!
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I wouldn’t advise reaming the wheel nut holes either, get it even slightly wrong & the wheels will be all over the place, with the risk they will never balance properly. The domed nuts in your pic are not the correct ones for K&N’s anyway, they look very much like the original pattern wheel nuts with the taper fitting.
Return the ones you have from Moss on the grounds they are incorrect & unsuitable; in fact I would say bloody dangerous if they expect punters to drill out the wheel holes! Be safe & get a new set of the correct K&N nuts either from Moss or if they can’t sort it, contact K&N direct.
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it was the nasty MOT man that told me there was play in the trunnion but i will pack it with grease and see what happens ,cheers
John m
It's supposed to be oil but if it's knackered you probably have nothing to loose other than an MOT!
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Not sure about the huge mounting boxes & wasn't even aware this is a problem when chroming, are repro’s different to OE’s then, strange if they are? Had all my original bumpers re-chromed without any problems at all so I would suggest you find another plating company. There are many archive posts on chroming with personal recommendations of companies in different areas so may pay you to have a search.
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Hi Guy,
You might check to see that the valves are moving down as they should ( ~ 3/8" for a stock cam ). When I lost camshaft lobes they became noisy, though more so @ 3000 rpm.
Any shortage of movement means a camshaft job
and head off +++
I've had a little excess noise in my driver for some 75000 miles now
so I guess I should stop fretting about it
Many years ago a close friend’s wife complained that her Ford Cortina wasn’t running particularly well & it was making one hell of a racket; her husband usually did all the servicing. Had the rocker cover off to have a look but was puzzled to find the rockers didn’t actually seem to be moving very much but they didn’t need much adjustment. It started easily & idled quiet well but the rockers were only moving around 1/8” or so & all appeared the same which probably accounted for the relatively smooth idle. When I took the cam out, the lobes were practically non-existent & the cam almost round; he had obviously been adjusting the tappets every week or so but didn't think to check why it was necessary!
As an aside, I’m still running my original CP cam & followers which have done well over 80k miles; runs as quiet as a mouse!
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A stethoscope is ideal but a long thick screwdriver will work quiet well to trace the location; place the pointy bit on the block & the plastic handle in your ear but be careful not to get caught up in the fan belt! The frequency of “tick” can be a guide to where it’s coming from, bore, cam/follower or valve gear rtc, & if you can relate the tick to a particular cylinder it’s a big start.
Are you sure those tappet clearances are correct? I’m assuming that’s thousands of an inch & not mm your quoting; they seem quiet high to me compared to the standard CP cam (.010”) which is a reasonably aggressive in it’s own right but I have absolutely no experience of your particular cam.
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PI’s can be a bit of a pig to start if left idle for more than a few days, what happens is the fuel evaporates from the injector lines & then you have to crank away getting the fuel pressure up before you will have any hope of it starting; starting technique is also important.
Rather than go into it all the detail again in here, can I suggest you visit the TR6 Forum & have a browse through the archive. There are rather more 6’s around than 5's but the PI system is the same & this problem comes up very regularly. There are many posts & much info to be had just by reading the archive PI posts.
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Bit of a lucky escape, good job it wasn’t the soft top TR!
Could be any one of a number of things or a combination of several; it’s a process of elimination really. Start by ensuring the problems is definitely not electrically related; there have been some distinctly dodgy repro rotor arms about & it may be worth replacing both the rotor & cap for good quality replacements; check/change plug leads for modern silicone; check/adjust ignition timing; do you have an electronic ignition fitted? For good measure, you could do a compression test as well.
Once you’re happy the electrics are OK, time to concentrate in the fuel system; I would always renew the fuel filter & check/adjust the fuel line pressure to start of with as it could be as simple as that - too low & it will misfire under acceleration & never develop max power; check you don’t have a blockage at the tank or anywhere else for that matter; bleed & check the injectors for weeping & spray pattern; check the metering unit distributor is correctly timed; check the condition/seal of the vacuum hose from the centre inlet manifold to the top of the metering unit; check fuel is returning to the tank from the PRV & metering unit bleed off; how is the age/condition of the metering unit?
This problem is common & comes up very regularly, there are lots of archive posts about how to do all of the above & a link to some free Lucas fault finding documentation so use the search facility & have a read up; come back with specifics if you need.
Oh I forgot; check condition of the throttle bodies & butterfly synchronisation.
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Richard, I'm 99% sure that the inertia switches were not fitted to any TR5's originally, that would have involved a different wiring harness and at least some mention in the parts books or the weekly Triumph newsletters and to date I've not seen them referred to in that era. The switch was however fitted to both the original TR6 prototype X776 built in March 1968 and to CP25001 built in July 1968, so Triumph were considering fitting them from the off and in fact did fit them to the first Mk2 2.5PI which was introduced I think sometime in 1970. Someone mentioned bean counters and that may well have been the reason.
cheers
Derek
Thanks for the info Derek, that would make sense &, as I said, my friends 5 had been “around a bit” so every possibility it was retro-fitted. Not sure how that explains Harry's 5 or Neil’s post.
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A satisfactory result then, well done.
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opened up a can of worms here,not got one on mine.no holes brackets or spade connectors ,its an original unrestored 1969 6
cp25605
cp25514he
any one know what the he is it is the original engine,cos i brought it from original owner
thanks for all your help
arthur
All good stuff to know & at least you’re no longer looking for something you never had in the first place
; I would still advise you fit one though.
Still slightly confused; assuming they were fitted from CP52300 as Derek says, why would Triumph have fitted switches to some 5’s, then stopped fitting them on the introduction of the 6 & then started fitting them again from around 1970!
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Not an original one, good luck finding these. You would only need it once but with a PI I would not dare driving without one. The originals are prone to failure after 30+ years but can be easily opened, cleaned, fixed and re-assembled again.
The original switches were not unique to the TR so can probably be had from several different sources. I also read somewhere about modern equivalents being suitable from several car makes; Ford was specifically mentioned but I’ve no idea what’s suitable & what isn’t.
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Richard
What about if you removed the wiper wheelbox access plates, or convert then into re-circulating vent flaps?
Tony
That should work as long as the holes are large enough; basically the cross sectional area needs to allow sufficient air into the plenum to match what your trying to pump out through the heater. Without going to all the trouble of calculating the requirements, a pretty safe bet would be to ensure the area of the holes matches the area of the intake with the vent flap open.
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Hi Telster,
in a previous thread from Ivor 88V8 I thought it was stated that the 6 can't work as a fug stirrer as the facia vents are not connected to the fan/gubbins or have I remembered it wrong.
Roger
Both the facia & footwell vents are connected to the fan/gubbins (plastic Y connector) but on the heater output side. The heater draws fresh air in through the top where it’s connected directly into the plenum so in order to get air through the heater it would be necessary to make holes in the plenum allowing air inside the car to be sucked into the plenum, though the heater & out into the car again. Simply blocking off the vent won't turn it into a fug stirrer.
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The brackets are not handed o/side, n/side & the bush mount holes should definitely be in line; it’s the offset position of the bush holes relative to the chassis mounting holes that provide the adjustment. If the bush holes aren’t in line it sounds like poor manufacture!
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Morning gents
A question,my 6 has one and are you saying that by tracing the wiring back a little and putting a switch in the power feed wire we have created an imobalizer.
alan
Absolutely; my 6 originally had a simple toggle switch fitted out of sight under the dash next to the heater. It actually prevented the car being stolen once when the Police were staking out a railway commuter car park. They caught the bastards trying to start my car & they said it was a good job they didn’t get it going because they had decided they were going to stop them leaving the car park & arrest them come what may!
Another way of immobilising is simply to operate the inertia switch; probably enough to confuse stupid little shits out for a joy ride but wouldn’t deter a thief who knows the cars.
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Interesting, thanks for the feedback; so does anyone know when they became standard fitment? A friend back in the 70’s had a 68 TR5 & his had one but I suppose it could have been retro-fitted; did any 5’s have them factory fitted? It would seem rather a nonsense to factory fit later 5’s & not fit them to the early 6’s but I suppose Triumph did many things back then that didn’t make much sense!
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It was not fitted to all PI's most 5's did not have it and some early 6's
Neil
Really?
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hi thanks for speedy replies
have all trs got them cos i saw one on ebay,and this jogged my memory of never seeing one on my 1969 tr
thanks
arthur
All PI's should have one fitted as far as I'm aware; as said, it’s a safety feature to diss power supply to the fuel pump in the event of an accident. Look for an empty “C” bracket on the bulkhead or possibly some holes where the bracket rivets have been drilled out & probably a pair of spade connectors joined near the bulkhead to complete the circuit. The inertia switch will (should) operate in the event of sharp acceleration/deceleration (as in shunt) & not just if the car overturns; it has been known to operate in the case of spirited driving around bumpy lanes!
If yours is missing, my advice would be to fit one; it’s a standard safety feature & the lack of one could give your insurance company an excuse not to pay up in the event of an accident even if it doesn’t involve fire!
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Beetcha Robin; but your's is a more detailed script
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Are you trying to find it or buy one
If you’re trying to find it, it can be found on the nearside of the bulkhead just to the right of the battery (looking from the front); a sort of grey coloured plastic cylinder with knob on the top!
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Guys
Looking at "the bright patch" it isn't that the access plate to the wiper box is missing, or not properly sealed in place, is it?
Regards
Tim
Good thinking; I was going to have a look for clues in the garage but the snows too deep!
Nuts for minilites
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
That's a very interesting piece of info![;)]()
; I had always assumed Minilite were a company in their own right but a quick Google on the 2 produces almost identical web pages, same address in Shropshire & almost the same phone numbers;
http://www.knwheels.co.uk/
http://www.minilitewheels.com/contact.php
When I was buying 5 years ago, I spoke to Minilite sales & they actually rubbished KN, I still bought them though as the cost difference was significant; I wonder what the real differences are & why the charade!![:unsure:]()