Richard Crawley
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Posts posted by Richard Crawley
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Frank, many thanks. Thats a serious angle for the engine out. I'll need to check if the hoist has that much hight and check garage roof a s well .
As I said, some serious angles are involved & watch the paint!
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I don't see why the answers would be any different from last time Robin.
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....ne+with+gearbox
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The question is how do you know when the timing has been set to the optimum advancement ? is it that past this you get backfiring and that it feels like you have a rev limiter on at certain loadings on the engine ?
Set the timing statically in accordance with the timing settings for your model in the manual; you can also use a strobe but keep the revs at 800 RPM. If you have a vacuum advance, remove the vacuum pipe & plug/seal the end with a suitably sized implement; do not exceed 900 RPM when using a strobe or the auto advance may start to have an effect.
If it’s a PI set the timing with the dizzy micrometer adjuster centrally located & then fine tune the timing as MikeC suggests so that you can run maximum advance without any pre-ignition detonation; you should use high octane premium fuel (I use Shell) or you will probably have to retard the timing significantly to prevent detonation.
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Ithought the pump was self priming, but the key is to fill as much of the accessable space with oil before trying, oil ways,cooler, through the pir, pressure light, pressurewitch etc.
For future ref. pack the pump with petroleum jelly when the engine is assembled as Andy says, you shouldn’t have to do much else.
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Try cranking with the plugs out, the fuel pump switched off & the LT side of the coil disconnected; it may tale a couple of minutes to get the oil around a new engine but don’t crank the starter continuously for more than 30 seconds & let it cool down for at least 10 minutes if you get no pressure after 10 attempts.
Was the pump primed when the engine was rebuilt? If not you may have to remove the dizzy & prime the pump through there.
What “light holes” did you pour oil into?
You will also have to prime the fuel system if it's a PI.
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I notice in the new TR Traction for March that on page 49 there is a lovely picture of a bonnet liner for a TR6. Where does one get one, and are they made for a 4/4a? Just the thing I need.
That's Pilkie's car who loiters in the TR6 Forum & very nice it's looking too Dave
. Very surprised to hear they don't do one for the 4 though Guy.
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Don’t forget there is also a micrometer adjustment on the side of the dizzy itself; you can often get enough adjustment to eliminate pinking from that (depending where it’s been set) without physically having to move the dizzy.
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There are a few threads on this subject if you search the TR6 forum for tyres!
Some people say you cant fit 205 or 215's??
Ive got 205/60 Firestones and have no issues at all with them!!
I know you & a few others would expect me to jump in here Dave
. It’s not so much that you can’t fit them, they will fit the rims just as easily as any 15” whatever the width. The issue is that the cross section exceeds the maximum design width for 5 ½“ rims. The maximum for 5 ½“ rims is 85 section. The originial section was 65 for UK cars 85 for US, you can push it to 95 if you really feel you must & this nearly matches the original diameter but they are are best suited to 6” rims. Fitting over section tyres won’t improve the handling & under certain circumstances will have the opposite of the desired effect.
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When I turn the allen screw to adjust the pressure, the "tip" spins also, is this still adjusting the pop off pressure?
The whitish screw & the pip effectively sandwich the valve body & it’s the spring pressure that’s causing the lot to turn; you have to hold the end of the valve (pip) carefully with a pair of pliers whilst tightening/loosening the Allen screw which will increase or decrease the spring pressure.
The O rings have already been replaced. The problem I have is out of 4, one blows off at about 62, one at 35, 2 at about 50, only one has the correct spray pattern. Will the brasso cure the spray pattern problem?Set the blow off pressure first, make sure the valve seats are thoroughly clean & test again. If any still don’t want to play, strip it & examine both the valve & valve seat. Lapping may help, it’s done in exactly the same way as cylinder head valves but using very mild abrasive (Brasso). If it looks very pitted & dribbles from the valve itself it’s probably scrap.
Also, only the one that pops off at 35 dribbles, the others do not leak fuel at all at 45. All numbers are psig, verified with 2 gauges. I appreciate the advice. Regards, GeneIf it’s dribbling past the valve it’s probably a result of the very low blow of pressure, once you set it correctly it should be OK. If the dribbling appears between the outer body & the injector case it’s the O ring. If you have a plentiful supply of O rings, I would renew them, even though they were new. Dissembling the injectors doesn’t do the O rings much good & you may find they will leak where they didn’t before; always put a little oil in the injector bore to lubricate the O ring on its journey down the bore.
I’ll admit I’m surprised to see such a variation in blow off pressures on which I believe you said were new (recon) injectors. For the amount of effort involved I would have expected they would be re-set as part of the refurbishment otherwise 20 quid, or whatever, seems an awful lot to pay for a re-plated injector body & an “O” ring worth around 4p. I bought recon (Prestige) for the first time in 30 years to complete the restoration because I wanted re-plated bodies & I didn’t have time to faf around getting them re-plated myself, I haven’t yet checked the pressures but they all seem to work fine; wish I could say the same about the bloody pump!
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I put in new plugs, I reset the static timing to 11BTDC (found it at 4deg BTDC) and I reckon I have found an extra 30 horsepower!
Cheapest form of tuning you can get.
The only issue is a little bit of pinging under load (foot to floor) so I'll back it off a degree or two and see.If the timing has been set with the vernier adjusting screw on the dizzy at the centre of it’s adjustment, you can very often gain enough to stop it pinking just by adjusting the screw a little at a time; this way you can do it out on the road in between hard runs.
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Hi Gene. They are simple to take apart & service as Dave says. I used to replace the O rings every year as part of routine service when the TR was my daily driver; I’ve got a little lazy recently though!
To set the blow off pressure is also relatively simple. In the injector nozzle you will see a whitish plastic screw with an allen socket head in the end, simply screw it in to increase pressure, out to reduce; assemble & check the pressure with “suitable” test equipment. If you really want to take the nozzle apart, just unscrew all the way, gives you a good opportunity to lap the poppet valve with some Brasso.
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I am having some work done on my flywheel
Double post.
Again, not lightening it are you?
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The shaft is scrap anyway, I just cut it if half to get it out. When fitting the new shaft, replace the DU shaft bushes within the gearbox housing & it’s a good idea to fit 2 in the actuator side as there is enough room. Get the uprated taper pin & make sure it a nice neat fit within the tapered shaft hole & that the head doesn’t bind on the fork before it’s fully home. You may also consider cross drilling & roll pinning the fork & shaft after your fitted it, this is a common mod. I think my parts came from Moss but it was some years ago; most of the suppliers have their eye on this problem now so any of the suppliers should be OK but I’m sure others will advise.
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I also used Dunlop Time Bond; also used it to fix all of the rest of the upholstery. I wouldnlt advise using any of the costruction adhesives (No nails, Sh** etc.) becasue of the nature of the plastic, I reakon it will fail.
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Yes the engine will run with the timing that far out but it won’t be developing the power it should & acceleration will be down. Mile’s covered the timing issues, bearing in mind I’m only looking at photos; no 1 looks about right but looking at all of them, the general colouring looks like it’s generally running rich but this could be the result of prolonged idling & also dodgy injectors; 6, 2 & 4 also look a little oily especially no 4.
Get a decent set of new plugs, reset the timing & see what happens, take it for a good blow out & then check the colour again.
This might be usefull;
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Nitrogen oxside
You beet me to it!
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Sadly yes; this has been going on for some time (like a few years!) & I've been a victim myself; total failure out in the middle of Norfolk nowhere! You also seem to have become a victim of one of the **** rotor arms that are so prevalent from all but one or two sources at the moment & I believe the caps are just as bad.
I’m currently running a good OE rotor myself, I bought it new but God only knows how old it is but it works. Only buy from a supplier known to be aware of this problem & who is prepared to do something about it. Hopefully, what’s left of this repro **** that our main suppliers imported from China will have to be skipped; or will it just end up on E bay!
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I am interested to know the reasons behind the "spacers as unsafe" opinion of some guys on the forum. You may be right, I would just like to benifit from your experiance and know the details prior to taking the decision to use them.
• Spacers shift the load on both the bearings & the stub axle further out (simple lever)
• Longer studs are subjected to higher bending moment, especially if the spacers are not a snug fit around the stud
• The design of TR hubs is 50 or more years old & almost certainly never envisaged the increased loads imposed by a wider track
• The components themselves could easily original & as old & tired as the car is
The above considered I wouldn’t fit them & never advise anyone else to either. I wouldn’t want to find out if it’s a problem & have a stub axle go while yumping through a bend at 50 odd MPH; if it’s just a “fouling” problem with 5 ½ or 6” rims, you can achieve the necessary clearance with just a little thought & some minor modifications without resorting to spacers.
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Having driven the same TR5 for some 40 years, I have got used to some of its foibles.
Welcome to the Forum Parr
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Blimey, 40 years with the same TR5 has got to be getting close to a record; I thought I was doing pretty well at 34 odd years with the 6!
Is it still origial? have you had it since new? where are you located, your profile gives no clue!
Presumably the wet towel & an ice cream was before frozen peas became widely available;
not sure I can advise on the white worms though!
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I don’t always agree with the "written word" of restoration publications but, in this case, I would agree; even a new (pattern) chassis isn’t, necessarily, going t be 100%. There are “cheats” you can use depending on what you’re doing but I’m not sure I get your point; why would you NOT paint & fully assemble the rolling chassis with all it’s components before moving to the body tub?
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Historically not a charade!
KN bought the Minilite business fairly recently, within the past few months.
Ahh that would explain it!
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EP 90 is the recommended lube. I use an ordinary Wanner grease gun fitted with a flexible nozzle which I’ve had for over 40 years. All I do is pull the plunger back around an inch, grease usually goes with it but sometime I have to push it down with an old lump of round wood, pour in some oil, pump the grease from the nozzle back into the grease tin until the oil comes through & the charge the trunions until oil oozes out from under the seal. I then squirt the remaining oil back into the oil tin until grease appears, leaving the gun ready & charged with grease again.
Sticky clutch
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Well covered in previous posts; there should be 2 machine bolts that fit snugly in the holes to align everything correctly, roughly at 10 to two. Most have long since gone as the manual doesn’t mention them & previous rebuilds usually means they get substituted with ordinary bolts which is the main reason for so many misalignment problems & sticky clutches! Others have also fitted dowels which achieves the same thing.