Richard Crawley
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Posts posted by Richard Crawley
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Simon,
Don't know but I remember the series well, including that particular episode (although I have not seen it since); it only fed my my determination to get "one of those cars" one day. It took me another 6 years but I did it & I've still got it!
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Niel,
boom boom, you beat me by less than a minute!
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Try filling the bores with diesel & letting this soak through several times but if that don’t work, I would not still worry too much. After 10 years of idleness, even inside a garage, my pistons were seized solid in the bores & no amount of soaking would shift them so I just dismantled everything else around them. When I was left with just the pistons & con-rods dangling in the block I got brutal with a 4lb lump hammer & a piece of 2” x 2” soft wood & they came out without too much trouble. In all probability the pistons will be trash anyway (I would certainly not re-use them) so even if they break up it’s no big deal.
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U.S. spec. pressures were surprisingly low, i.e. 20/24 for '250s and 22/24 for TR6s. Weight increased 200 lbs over the build range, too. Note these figures were for 185-15 tyres. Despite the specs, I've settled on 25/27 for mine - gives even wear and good steering behaviour without sluggishness.
I initially used the US spec. as a reference also but thought the pressures a bit low so I have gone for 26/28 based on the other 4 cars in the family which have the same section tyres, albeit they are only 13" or 14" in diameter & front wheel drive.
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I also referred to the Practical Classics book 'Tr6 Restoration' page 79 which refers to the top front wishbone having an L on one side and a R on the other side. The L should appear uppermost on the nearside. Regarding the fulcrum pin, page 78 of the same book shows it mounted the wrong way round. Has anyone else noticed this.
Well spoted Les,
the fulcrum pin is indeed the wrong way around & I believe this may have, subsequently, been one of the main sources of the confusion. I wrote to Practical Classics when they did the article but they were adamant their "expert" was correct & even went on to publish it in book form (which I also have). They did not seem to be that bothered about it!
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Jean, you've not had the operation yet then ....???!!!
OK, the penny's droped I goofed!
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marvmul,
Jean does not actually mention convex or concave but she actually means concave, so it could be missinterpreted as either, until you look at her sketch. The sketch & finally Tim's picture says it all; Another candidate for "sticky topic" on the forum!
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marvmul,
My knowledge does not really extend beyond the IRS cars so I don't know but the lack of information in any of the manuals added to how difficult it is to actually explain in the written word leads to constant, reoccurring confusion.
Unfortunately, people interpret written descriptions in different ways. Even your own contribution exasperates this; what exactly do you mean by “has the curve towards the outside of the car”, is this convex or concave curve? I assume you mean the concave curve, i.e. the opposite of Jean’s drawing – get my point!
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Barry,
reading your post again I think it's probably the O/D washer & not the dreaded layshaft thrust bearing (no way through for it from the gearbox really is there). Sorry if I may have panicked you but I would certainly strip the gearbox as well while you are at it & clean, check & replace things as necessary. It's an easy unit to work on. I agree with marvmul's comments re the layshaft needle rollers but the thrust bearing mod is totally different.
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Barry,
reading your post again I think it's probably the O/D washer & not the dreaded layshaft thrust bearing (no way through for it from the gearbox really is there). Sorry if I may have panicked you but I would certainly strip the gearbox as well while you are at it & clean, check & replace things as necessary. It's an easy unit to work on.
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Richard,
Please do tell where you can the stainless steel sockets from.
Thanks
Richard,
I can't exactly remember but it was almost certainly from Moss or TRGB, the only suppliers I really use.
The only other place it could have come from is either Nameric (fixing supplier) or an autojumble stall at one of the big shows.
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You could always get an Accumate or similar to keep the battery in good condition if the car is unused for several weeks and keep the alarm/immobilizer connected to deter the pond life.
Get the AccuMate as not all automatic chargers appear to be equal!
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Barry,
Sadly the washer you describe is almost certainly the remains of a gearbox lay shaft thrust bearing & the bang & shuddering you heard probably means the gearbox is also damaged internally, possibly severely (mine was, twice). You must also strip this down & check it!
This is a known design weakness with the 5 & 6 box, the bronze lay shaft thrust bearings are just not up to the thrust forces a heavy right foot can impose on the unit, especially if you make judicious use of O/D in second! A permanent cure, as used by some racers, is to have the box modified to take needle roller thrust races as per the stag unit. You can actually fit a Stag box but the ratios are different.
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Taking into consideration what is printed in the handbook, Part#545079 from 69, that came with my car a 1970 TR6 what indicates that fitted tyres were.
185 SR-15 SP Sport or 185 SR-15 XAS.
On my car they were 165 HR-15 XAS.
Hmm,
that's strange; perhaps BL changed the recommended speed rating sometime between 1969 & 1970 or maybe it was an unnoticed misprint in early 6 manuals! Out of interest, does anyone know the specified rating for the TR5?
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Quote from a reliable source:
The top front wishbones are stamped “R” on one side & “L” on the other side. When fitting them to the nearside of a RH drive car (designated by BL as the left hand side of the vehicle), the “L” should appear on the upper face. The “R” appears on the upper face on the other side (or R/H side of the car). The top rear wishbones are not marked at all.
The top fulcrum has been the cause of many arguments about which way round it goes (see my posting Upper fulcrum pin August 19 2003). On the TR5 & 6, the outside of the curve should face the suspension turret (so it looks the wrong way round). To confuse matters further, I believe it’s the other way around on a TR4!
Below I have reproduced Jean’s post from this topic, which is probably the easiest to understand!
Richard, this is very hard to explain. As far as I'm concerned the curve should point towards the engine, so that the pin is a very close fit to the turret.
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oo turret
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Who the hell tightened it up & when was the last time it came off? I get the impression you need to be a bit more "brave"; Put a large Stillson wrench on it & tug like hell. The plug diameter is so large (1/2" I believe), I would say it is impossible to shear it or rip the sump out. If that fails to shift it (unlikely), plug weld a 1/2" nut on to it & put a bloody great spanner on that.
Once you’ve got it out, replace it with a nice stainless steel, Allen socket plug & you will never have any more problems; it’s tapered so just don’t over tighten it.
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Tyre rating is not just about the car's top speed, it is also concerned with acceleration & cornering forces that the car's potential performance will exert on the tyres.Whose been drag racing & seen those rear, wrinkle wall tyres doing their job! Stick to the specified rating (higher if you are tuned) or you could well invalidate your insurance.
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The problem is that bronze wear particles remain suspended in grease, leading to accelerated wear. In oil, they fall down into the bottom of the trunnion, off the threads - that's what the vertical slot in the threads is for. As for oil 'falling out' of the trunnions, the problem there is that unlike the original parts, modern parts have a steel plug, like a core plug, inserted in the base of the cylindrical casting. Some plugs don't seal well, and the oil leaks out. If you have new trunnions, clean and degrease them, then apply some epoxy glue around the edge of the plug, inside the trunnion, as a permanent seal.
Then your oil will stay in!
John
Thank you John, you said it all: Not everything is always as cut & dried as it may seem!
I would add that I have never had any problem getting EP 90 into the trunions (or keeping it there). I use an old (35 years old) Wanner grease gun fitted with a flexible nozzle.
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George,
I would advise against using anything other than the specified oil in TR trunions, there is absolutely no advantage to be gained & you may end up with problems.
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Presumably it's the air that must be got out of the lines and injectors. If the injector pointed upwards, would it purge more quickly than hanging them point down in a tin?
John,
Great, glad to hear of your success but I am surprised it took that long to purge the system. Of course you are correct about the air thing & that's why I (& the Lucas mechanic I learned it from) hold the injectors high & point them skywards, either into an absorbent rag or well away from everything; it's much quicker but you can hardly sanction this as an "official method" in any manual. It's a risk if you are not "AWARE" of what you are doing & if someone happens to be smoking nearby. I have done it like this for nearly 30 years but accept no responsibility if, in the process, you torch your car, yourself, or your neighbor who happened to be lurking with a fag on the other side of your garden hedge.
Seized engine !!!!!!!!!
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I was able to get all of my big end caps off without too much trouble. Simon,
perhaps you’ve been unlucky with the positioning of the crank last time it stopped. Even if you can’t get to them all, take out the ones you can & if it’s only one or two left, you may find things can start to be moved enough to make them accessible.
To others; I never said anything about removing the pistons & rods through the bottom of the block! Once you clout each piston on the crown & get it moving, get rid of as much of the rust as you can with emery cloth, lubricate the bores, turn the block over & you should have no trouble knocking them out from the bottom - I was assuming just a little licence here! Make sure you “drift” on the alloy piston casting (alternate each side) & don’t hit the con-rod or small end casting. Don’t worry about any wear ridge in the bore, it wont stop you getting them out. The rings will be trash anyway & in all probability either already broken (if not they will be once they hit the wear ridge!) or seized in the piston groove; the most wear is at the top so if they are stuck they wont expand to hit the ridge anyway.
Re the camshaft, you should be able to knock it out from the back end if you can get the steel “plug” out with it still in place. They usually rotate on their axis when you hit them with an old screwdriver to knock a bloody great hole in them to lever them out. Is the engine really rusted up that bad!