Red 6
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Posts posted by Red 6
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The best deterrent is a good agreed value insurance policy. Obviously It is a deterrent against fiscal loss and not the loss of the car. One has to face facts old cars cannot be effectively protected against theft, if BMW cannot protect their cars against theft (my neighbor had her brand new 60k BMW broken into without damage after just 3 weeks of ownership) then how can you effectively protect a car nearing 50 years old. Well there is a way and that is to keep an eye on it at all times.
I remember a thread a few years back where someone was griping that their insurance company would not insure their TR if it was left unattended with the roof down citing that he had always parked it with the roof down in the past.
I suppose on a pragmatic note the solution is a crook lock, discreet switch, battery switch, bonnet lock, security door lock replacing the existing door locks, tracker, gps, removable steering wheel (now that does work) and finally a fuel cock fitted under the car midway along the chassis rail. That is probably enough to deter the casual opportunist (and the owner from actually using it), but not the so called international criminal gangs.
Actually, it might be a good idea to retro fit the rusty panels you all took off the car when you restored it at least that way the passing international criminal will pass your car by and pick a nicer one!
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Just to 2nd the point about not overtightening the front bolts. Everyone does!
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Before you choose a cam it is important to decide what outcome you are after. for example do you want out and out top end power, do you want more bottom end torque, will you be happy with a high idle speed (1100+ rpm). Once you have decided then the choice is quite straightforward as it is all down to the duration of the camshaft.
If you look on the kent cams website there is a guide which shows when the power comes in and when it goes out.
To make things simpler if you fit a 285 duration cam the tick over will be about the same as you have now, and the power comes in at low revs so it is very tractable in traffic but goes well when you floor it but will not over rev the engine meaning you wont need to fit anything uprated to hold the engine together.
One of the best things you can do is to fit a lightened or lightweight flywheel. Just doing this can feel like you have fitted 2 extra pistons when you pull away, so a combination of both would be a good idea.
I have built quite a few road or race engines and have tried most combinations. The best was a 306deg cam. Revved to 8.5k but needed £8-10k's worth of bits to keep it together. It went well mind!
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I disagree. We are talking about a TR6 here, a car that is in the region of 44 years old, low mileage is not relevant unless, that is, mileage is the only factor and condition is not.
What about a fully restored car that had done say over 100k miles but is now nice and new and shiny, maybe even with the clock returned to zero. I think it would be an odd buyer who based their decision on mileage.
But that is just my 2p and no offence meant.
Back to the original point, I am in agreement with Alec on the price, It sounds like a come on to me, if it is a nice as the pictures portray them someone who wants a 6 wont get it for that.
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I am at a loss here, who buys a classic car because of the mileage?
If "one" were selling a TR6 (for instance) which happened to have a very low mileage and a "punter" turned up, completely ignoring the car but only wanting to discuss the mileage how would you react?
Is mileage in the same category as selling a car previously owned by Beckham, Clarkson, Cameron etc where the value is only in the name (or skin particles left in the car by the celebrity owner).
Surely the "discerning buyer" who would be interested in one of the 2 cars mentioned would actually just be after a nice car to drive. Lets face it TR6's are not collectors items they are just nice cars which have all the bits available should something break.
My own limited experience was selling a 1969 lotus elan s4 (I think) which had a ludicrously low mileage due to being in storage in crates from 6 months old for over 35 fully documented by club lotus years. The car was not in showroom condition by any means but the mileage was genuine. I had a visit from an enthusiast who clearly only wanted to debate the mileage claim in person. To my shame I did not handle the meeting well. I did however sell it to the next person to arrive, he liked the car and he said it was a nice colour.
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I wonder if this thread is causing sleepless nights for TR6 owners.
All this talk of the need for damping and snapped crankshafts will have some worrying about what might happen when driving along in OD 4th along a motorway at just above the legal speed limit: Will It snap the crank after all my rev- o -meter is at 3k rpm.
I have never seen or heard of a snapped crank on a road going 6. I have heard of and seen plenty of front pulleys where the rubber has given out and the 2 sections have separated and then of course the evil one where the outer ring slips, just a little but enough.
The real question is what to replace a worn out one with, I would just re fit a standard one, after checking it too was not a duffer, or perhaps spend £oodles on a blingy one!
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Guide 30-35K.
Achieved £25k plus premium, could this be the evidence of a fall in classic car prices?
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I had this on a 4a I was fettling last year. It turned out that the distributor was seized. Using a timing light I revved the engine and saw the TDC mark slowly move well after the engine had already got on its way. When the revs died the tdc was still there.
After a clean up the timing was fine and no pinking.
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The problem might be the spring.
The solution to low oil pressure is to stretch the spring, (a little agricultural but proven to work) so perhaps your spring is stretched or it is a new one which has lots of resistance.
It might be an idea to buy a new spring and then experiment with cutting tiny bits off the old one until the pressure is where you want it, and having a new spring means you have a plan B if you cut too much off.
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Whoops, I completely missed the bit about the smell. Having said that it confirms that something was making the clutch slip and I doubt it was anything to do with rust on the driven plate/flywheel so my final go would be, did the clutch slip with the clutch fully released? If so it is not the hydraulics. Did the clutch judder as you pulled away and was the clutch action smooth at the time?
This will point to whether it was a release bearing problem, somehow I doubt it as release bearing and sliding action issues would be very obvious.
Still if the problem is gone, then its gone, unless it is a faulty cover plate.
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I disagree.
I have never known a healthy clutch to slip then not slip.
My thoughts are guided elsewhere, perhaps to an overdrive gearbox fault which does manifest itself as clutch slip.
So there is one avenue to explore.
Back to the clutch slip, what did it smell like? If it was a slipping clutch then it would smell like one yet no mention of the smell.
You described a 130 mile round trip, did it start slipping at any particular point in the trip and when you left it parked did it slip again when started?
I do not think rusty deposits is a cause here. For many years my own car has had to be rocked and abused into life to free a seized clutch, that one lasted 23 years and did not slip. Could it be a worn rear crank seal or the gearbox oil seal leading to contamination of the clutch plate? If so there should be a tell tale drip from the drain hole in the bottom of the bell housing.
Either way I think further investigation is needed, imagine having to call a breakdown truck on a nice sunny day to cart you home.
I speak from bitter experience here, but that was as a result of the infamous 3 rivet clutch plate and not the proper laycock that was previously installed.
Tr's and clutches.............epic!
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I am a bit late to this but here is my version.
It sounds initially like a simple air lock.
The simple solution is to fill the radiator and replace the cap then remove the heater hose from the back of the head and "back fill" until water comes out of the "tap". This means the heater is purged as is the head. Replace hose.
Having said that the system is designed to self purge that is why the radiator cap effectively has a 2 way flow, it will purge air and water into the overflow bottle then suck water back in when it cools. It sounds good but if you have a big air lock there is not enough water to take up the space when the initial air is purged, and here is the problem, with air in the system the system will not pressurize.
It is the pressure in the system which raised the boiling point of water, and thus allows the fan and radiator to efficiently cool the liquid and maintain a working engine temperature.
If the system is not pressurized enough then the engine will run hot/boil over as the cooling system will not be able to cope. This is why it is possible to boil over on a hot day when it has never happened before.
So that leads me to the rad cap, as has already been mentioned, forget 7psi go for 13psi, as this raises the boiling point and allows the cooling system to run efficiently in hot weather.
My recent experience of this was a car I was de bugging after a rebuild by others. The engine kept running hot and boiling over. I found 2 hoses to be weeping which prevents the system from pressurizing, I then discovered the cap which was brand new was a 7psi cap and missing its seal. I then removed the thermostat housing to find the thermostat was in backwards but what about this then, I had the presence of mind to check the working of the brand new thermostat only to find it was a duffer.
The moral is check everything and assume nothing.
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300 degrees is ok for a PI, but I would have thought it would be a bit of a faff to drive in traffic. I appreciate you say it pulls from 1500 rpm, but for normal driving I would have thought that to accelerate when say overtaking from cruise you would have to keep dropping down gears to get some power when what is needed is torque and a lower power band, hence my recommendation of 285 for webbers and 295 (max) for PI as a road car.
Mind you there is more to this than just degrees of advance, one has to consider the head, valve size, inlet tract and exhaust and so on. The cam is just a mechanical device driven by the crank for opening and closing the valves.
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I have fitted several phoenix systems and it is a very simple job. I always fitted the single pipe big bore exhaust with the extractor type manifold.
This set up only needs a single mounting point to the rear of the silencer, with a hole drilled in the boot floor to mount the bracket.
Unless he has changed the design you will need to buy an allen screw of the same size as the original stud as you cannot get a spanner in at number 3 to tighten properly. You will also need to indent the pipe to get the screw in. Again that is unless the design and spacing has changed.
Wrapping is a good idea, but the last one I fitted had to go back because the welds had pin holes allowing gas to escape. Needless to say you can only find this out when the job is finished and the car running. Nevertheless it is the only system I would fit.
If indeed this is the system you have bought, then fitting on the ground is straightforward but you may need to remove a road wheel to get the centre section in place! Finally spend some time getting the box tucked up into the boot floor area to get the best ground clearance.
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Sorry, are you suggesting that 16k miles is a good return?
Absolutely and unequivocally without any shadow of a doubt yes.
The engine was built to rev to 8k (8.5k if you ignored the big red light) which is what it did when asked, which was quite often. My friend bought the car from me and successfully raced it in the sprint and hill climb championship for several years. I think if I still owned it it would have done about 3k miles in 7 years and would have lasted forever (possibly). What a car, what an engine.
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm happy days.
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If want to run the webbers then 285 deg which think is the th5 cam is as wild as you can go can go for a road car, (it is to do with the fact webbers need vacuum to suck the fuel air mix in and PI does not) and over 285 deg the vac disappears (yes I know it is not as simple as that)
For PI 295 is about it, unless you like revving to 2k every time you pull away, but you will need the metering unit tweaked.
To help decide go to kent cams website where you will find info on where power comes in and where it goes out, for example a power range between 3k and 7k is no good for towing a caravan just as 1100 to 2500 wont win any traffic light GP's. So my recommendation is 285 to 295 degrees, and forget any nonsense about high lift, that just munches lobes. If you want high lift go to roller rockers etc.
As to who to buy from, I always bought from Kent and the results were fine, my 306 deg cam lasted 16k road and race miles.
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Alec, what is needed is not a marque organization but a car parts version of Trip Advisor.
TA sorted out the B+B industry in double quick time.
This version could be called TRip advisor. or maybe TRip off.
Then again people will still buy the same parts from the same suppliers even with warnings from others, I suspect it is because once you have built a relationship with a supplier they will always try to help, especially where it costs them virtually nothing to do so, the problem will come when it is a high value item (I also suspect).
I claim copyright on the above names and will be writing a prospectus for an IPO. Now where can I find a few speculative investors?
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You mentioned the engine has been rebuilt therefore it might be a good idea to check that the camshaft has been timed correctly. If you cant get a balance between pinking and performance which is such a simple job (all you need is an adjustable strobe timing light) then the problem could be elsewhere.
A 290 deg cam is not much different from standard so using 11deg as a starting point should give you a usable datum point.
But consider what 11 deg means:
A. Is it based on a cam shaft which could be a few degrees out either way, (thus the ignition timing wont be 11 deg)
B. Is it based on the crankshaft pulley which (as previously stated) might have "slipped" a few degrees (my race car one slipped by 180 degrees then separated completely)
Also consider the effect of A on the metering system, visually it will be correct but actually fuelling will occur in a different position relating to the actual crank position.
All of which will combine to make reduce the engines performance.
So before booking it in, check the position of TDC in relation to the crank pulley, then check the cam timing, for which you will need 2 x DTI's to make the job easier or 1 if you are careful and take your time.
Do not be daunted, if you haven't done this before it is a very easy job to do and it will make everything else on a PI car simple in future.
Hope this helps
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Perhaps you should try Competition Car Insurance (CCI) they are now part of towergate but specialise in competition and modified cars and those used for track days.
Their rates have shot up recently but there are many alternative companies which specialise. Have a look on the SELOC forum, as insurance is just as big a thing if you own an exige or elise whith a 300bhp audi or honda conversion.
Usually comes with 5 or 6 trackdays as well.
Others are Henderson Taylor, REIS, Haggerty etc.
Hope this might help
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I'm abit late to this thread but if it helps i fitted an od box to my friends car 2 months ago. It was -1deg and I was in mid flu but it had to be done.
The worst part is stripping out the trim, h frame, carpets and tunnel, it took ages as everything is so fiddly.
The box change took about 1.5 hours which included grinding off the cross shaft when the bolt in the fork snapped.
So top tip, check the cross shaft, change the pins, make sure the bolt has not made the hole in the cross shaft oval, in other words, buy everything including the cross shaft bushes and do the lot. Then send back what you dont need.
Also get the car as high as possible on axle stands so its not cramped when underneath, and finally you will need a trolly jack or similar under the car supporting the engine so you can raise or lower the engine to aid lining up the box.
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No problem Tom, we'll just run it over the pit in a couple of weekend's time . . . . garage heater on, stereo on, kettle on, no sweat . . . .
My buddy Gus will be over, real good engine man, so a pukka professional inspection - flush the system, drop the sump, inspect the crank.
I don't think it's a major drama, and Denis's suggestion is well worth investigating - thanks for that ! Always helpful to have alternative thoughts.
Once we've inspected, it's only 50 yards from the garage to The Old Ship - celebrate or drown sorrow, it'll be Matt's round either way !!
Cheers
Alec
You have a pit! You have a heater! You have a pub near by! I Hate you!!!!
I changed a gearbox on a 4a today, on a concrete floor, and in true TR style...... no heating at all. In fact I am now holding a glass of ale in my hands and I am chilling it!
The old ways are still........old
Cheers Alec.
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So Alec has it been decided yet who will get cold and oily?
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From the look of the picture it could be your hood has shrunk, which is quite common on viynal hoods, (if that is what your hood is as i couldnt quite make it of from your picture).
Also the velcro on the hood often gives up, now that is very hard to change, whilst the velcro for the hood frame can be bought from moss, but to fit it requires removing the channel holding the rubber in. The tiny screws and nuts become rusted in place so best to order a complete set of those as well.
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Send them back and get a pair that fit from someone else.
If they reccomend a grind then let them do it to one of their customers cars.
TR5/6 seats
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
If the early seats were of the non reclining type then they would have been the same. The TR5/250 seats did not recline. As to the value now probably worthless, certainly in the past few years I have thrown away seats as they took up so much storage space and no one wanted them. I suppose this was because so many people are fitting cheap MX5 seats or buying ridgard seats.