Red 6
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Posts posted by Red 6
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I solved a similar problem for a chap who was 6ft 3" and as he said "mostly leg". The problem was the standard seats not being able to go far enough back with the back of the seat touching the rear platform. I had to replace the seats with aftermarket ones and using the standard runners make a subframe onto which the new seats mounted and thus allow the seats further rearward travel.
By doing this I retained the standard wheel.
However you could always fit a smaller wheel
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No No No! Forget any connotations of racing a lightweight flywheel just give effortless driving at low speed and makes NO difference at all to cruising and I speak as someone who drove one for 19.5 years and fitted one to every TR I have ever built (lots)
Now to refine this ideological thread a bit there is a lot of talk about light weight flywheels so I think a bit more detail is required as there are light weight and very lightweight or just plain lightened.
If you refer to books by people who have actually done this and are respected for doing It and have made a living out of selling the parts they wrote about you will quickly see the optimum weight for a light weight flywheel fitted to a road car, or in the case of Kas Kastner and Peter Cox the amount of material to be removed from a standard flywheel. It is all there in B+W.
However the final say as to whether to do it or not is up to the individual, all they need are the facts and not conjecture. (and maybe a test drive in a 6 fitted with one:-)
I rest my case.
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Yes and no.
The lower strips are held on by clips that are riveted so you could replace them but as a restorer I can tell you they create a rust spot. You could attach with double sided tape in fact that is a good idea but look at the strip and you will see there is not much that the tape can stick to. You could fill the strip with expanding foam or resin wood filler (like araldite) which would create a suitable surface to the tape to grip. You will also note the strip is stainless steel and polishes up very nicely.
Keep the wing bead shiny, it looks nice and will never chip!
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I am not exactly sure what we wont agree on since the OP was asking about what lightened flywheel to fit, and for a road car I do not believe I have ever found a more cost effective way of improving the low end performance and driveability whilst not having to modify or strengthen other components to compensate. In my opening response I mentioned that everyone has an opinion about everything and to further add to that a lot have an opinion but no experience of doing what they are expostulating on hence, as James May often describes, the internet is a web of lies.
Now as for revs, I had the pleasure of owning a TR6 racing car (road legal but a pig to drive with a 7.5" cerametallic clutch) and was able to experiment and try different things and have personal experience of what driving a British 6 cylinder car at revs up to and in excess of 8k rpm. In the words of the young folk it was truly "super Awesome", and not just the way it accelerated but in the complete aural excitement which accompanied any journey (except in traffic * see clutch type). Now to achieve that kind of performance there was "some" expenditure required the least cost being the ARP big end bolts at £25 each!!!! So nice experience but not for everyday use.
I did think of supercharging my TR250 as it had the required low compression pistons and Moss had the kit on special offer, but chose to buy a supercharged car, not a TR, instead of doing it my self and can confirm and agree with you supercharging is the way to go for effortless power delivery and for me 6 years of trouble free enjoyment.
So that so it really I do not see where we disagree as I agree with you, and I have a copy of tuning 4 stroke engines by that chap bell and the one by vizard and the really good one on supercharging which seems to spend most of the pages eulogizing about dissipation of excessive heat generated by supercharging!
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Why would you worry about going to 7200 RPM?
The thread is about lightened flywheels, the benefit is at low revs, ie pulling away, when you want to go to high revs ie 7200 and above (and below) the engine internals need to be optimized for the purpose as mentioned by stanpart........, which was a good response.
Now I wonder how fast 7200 Rpm would be in overdrive top and a 3.45:1 diff? My race engine was very happy at 8K rpm but I never managed to find the conditions to pull that in top gear (I couldn't find a steep enough hill with a long enough straight!!! :-).
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It is not a good idea to fit the stalk end to the seat.
The mounting on a standard TR seat are very weak just 1/2 (spanner size) bolts into captive nuts. In an accident they will rip out. Changing to an mx5 seat you will have a different subframe. The temptation is just to bolt them in in a similar way to that which the standard runner is fixed which will have the same outcome.
The best idea would be to fit the new belt to the existing mounting points as those points are strengthened.
When fitting a securon belt it is a 4 point fixing. 2 of the points use the existing mountings for the stalk and the anchor point in the cill at the bottom of the rear wheel arch. The retractor is fitted to the wheel arch behind the seat and is mounted in a vertical position. You need to drill a hole for the mounting bolt and reinforce it on both sides with the thickest washer you can find and some dum dum to stop water ingress. The last point is where the shoulder mounting goes. This is as high on top the wheel arch as is possible. If you are lucky the strengthened mounting point will already be there, if not drill the hole and again find the biggest thickest washer to strengthen the mounting point.
The belt you need has a 30 cm stalk, I cannot remember the entire code but as Robin has said go to ebay and do a search they are usually about 1/2 the price of Moss and the like.
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I am quite surprised that there is even a debate about lightening or fitting a lightweight flywheel. Perhaps it is because the naysayers have never done it, or never driven a car fitted with a light flywheel. In any case it is for the owner to decide.
The benefit is that the engine/car becomes very nimble from pull away and low speed performance ie in traffic/town conditions. The 6 flywheel is a big heavy beast, that's how the engines were built in those days. If you take a modern fiesta and compare it with one of the first generation the flywheel is now so much lighter which makes the modern version feel bright and nimble instead of sluggardly. This is because less power is being used to spin up the flywheel. So how lightening a flywheel be seen as anything other than an improvement?
I bet someone comes back with tickover.
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It does not matter which clutch kit you fit as long as you avoid the 3 rivet clutch plate.
A few years ago I posted a thread about the dangers of theses diabolical and under speccd parts being passed off as fit for purpose along with photo's of the offending item and plenty of contributions from others who had suffered the same fate.
Those products became unsalable and vanished but I have seen a few popping up on ebay so be warned.
As to clutch problems they are generally caused by wear in supporting components so for a few extra bob and an extra hour of work you can renew everything.
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I have just had 2 cars painted. Both solid colours both 2 pack and both lacquered, result........fabulous! Yes to lacquer.
Both cars were painted in Glasurit , one was white and the other red. The cost was about £80 per litre
Incidentally the base colour has no gloss or sheen it is just colour it is the Lacquer that gives it the shine, just like modern water based paints (which are much more expensive) Having said that there are different types of 2k, another type I used also by glasurit has the shine built in which might explain any confusion about finish.
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Fitting a light weight flywheel is probably the best improvement to drivability you can do.
I have just sold a brand new racestorations flywheel (also available from Moss) but remember to add in the price of the ringear and having it fitted plus the uprated flywheel to crank bolts (eye wateringly expensive).
As an alternative just get your existing flywheel lightened. The last one I did cost about £60 in machining charges and what a difference!!
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Hammer and chisel with an assistant pressing down on the brake pedal. The nuts will be off in no time. If you have a propane torch (as used by home plumbers) give it a dose of heat first.
When re fitting the "new" nuts peen the end of the nut into the stud, it acts as a lock also use thread lock.
I remember doing a trackday at goodwood and those nuts came loose, scary!
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No problem at all carry on. The earlier manifold and linkage is much easier to set up but remember to change all the linkage bushes before you re fit so that everything works smoothly.
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I see the price has dropped to £1k, but I did not know 4a grilles were fetching those prices. I have 1 remaining 4a grille so I will try it on ebay.
Sirmatt used to post on here, I wonder if he still does, nice chap met him once.
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I think it is cheap. As the advert says where else are you going to buy a new one, ie a stanpart one which fits.
Considering the asking prices of restored cars £1200 is loose change.
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Another view of the wing strips is that when painted the often chip so leaving them in their original stainless steel finish is a good idea, for some.
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Try another rotor arm.
The description you give sounds just like a rotor arm issue, ie tracking so it is worth trying that first.
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I think you have a good understanding of the idle and acceleration problem. If the butterflies do not open together you will get hesitant acceleration accompanied by coughing.
I have not had to work on a CR for a while but did own one, in fact I cut my teeth on getting it to run properly.
So if you say there is wear, and I assume for the purpose of the response you mean on the shaft bushes then start by changing them first. I seem to remember that one of the bushes is a little difficult to change but there are ways and means.
Once you have that sorted then the car should run as was intended again assuming all other contributing parts are working as they should. So I would say start with getting the butterflies to open properly and progressively before reaching for the drill.
I will look at the brown book for inspiration.
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Enfield.
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You could try wd on the pedal shaft. The clutch and brake both use the same shaft so it is possible that using the clutch could move the brake pedal just enough to engage the brake switch under the brake pedal. It might also be that the brake switch is too close to the pedal etc.
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Shame you are not near N London or I could have done it for you.
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If you have a new refurb'd M/U then the very last thing to do is to start fiddling with it. I suggest you examine what is happening at 30 mph in 4th which would be about 1500rpm?
If you can lay your hands on a colour tune that would help. Set the car to idle at 1500 using the air bleed screw and see if the engine is running weak. If that is the case then send the M/U back to prestige for recalibration.
Can I ask if this problem has just started or has it been like it from when the engine was done?
Some problems often overlooked is fuel pressure (as mentioned) ,for long term ownership buy a fuel pressure gauge, and it is surprising the effect a faulty or maladjusted PRV can have on the engines running also true of the fuel pump.
Double check the M/U timing even if you know it to be correct.
Check that the advance retard mechanism is actually working and not as I recently discovered on a rebuilt dizzy, seized!
I wont go into cam timing but that is next on the list.
Incorrectly adjusted butterflies cause hesitation and banging on acceleration, and spindles have to be very worn indeed to make any difference to the cars performance due to the volume of air being sucked in through the butterflies in normal running.
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Protek's conversion was the best, but probably copied by everyone these days.
I fitted one to my 3a and it made the car feel light and nimble so you will not be disappointed.
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Hi David,
You don't grease trunnions you oil them! Same with the rack,
Use EP90, it gets a bit messy, not to mention the smell! I converted one of those pump grease guns, worked well (except for the previously mentioned mess and smell).
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Setting them is very easy, it just takes a bit of patience and a gunson carb balancer. You did not mention whether yours is a CP or CR. If you look in the Brown Book there is a section on setting them up. Read it but ignore the bit about feeler gauges as what you are trying to do is start by getting all the butterflies closed, then all opening "as one". Have a look in the book and let us know if you need any help.
To Lacquer or not to Lacqer
in General TR Technical
Posted
Preparation is the key.
A shiny car will show how good the preparation was.
A particular problem with older cars is the panels stress over time which leads to ripples in the metal, I am thinking of say the door of a vitesse/herald or a rear wing of a 4a/5. These ripples have to be removed/covered otherwise they will stand out like a sore thumb hence the prep has to be even more thorough. To add to the problem you are painting the car in Blue. If it is a dark blue say Royal Blue or even Sapphire blue then the prep is even more critical.
What I can tell you is that if the prep really is first class then a blue car with a bright deep lacquered finish will look even better than stunning.
As you said you will only be doing this once!
ps make sure you get a spare 1/2 litre of colour for any future mishaps.