Red 6
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Posts posted by Red 6
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I would like to point out that some long standing contributors are also not members, and cannot post items for sale so have to use ebay and other outlets.
But I digress, there appears to be a number of similar scams re cars for sale and the only ones who can spot them are marque enthusiasts who scan all for sale adverts and take the time to report them. I often wonder if any action is actually taken having reported several to ebay and PH in the past 6 months yet the adverts still appear for several days later.
In the words of hill street blues "be careful out there".
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It has been several years since I last restored a 3a (as seen in the first all colour TR action) and I now have another.
Since I collected it, it has not stopped raining or blowing a gale so I am getting desperate to get stuck in.
It is a lovely car, very original, well looked after over many years by the previous owner, and not requiring any welding!!!
I will report back once I have had a chance to actually do something.
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If I may add that the foil type material is for vibration damping and not sound deadening.
Only small strips or squares need to be applied and these would be placed roughly in the centre of the panel or area to be damped. Thus you can do the job with very little material and there will be no appreciable weight penalty.
The material is about 2mm thick and there is a much better quality product available which is not bitumen based.I cannot remember the name but I have just used it on my Porsche restoration with brilliant results.
Chose the damping material with care because as the roof gets blindingly hot in summer the adhesive will melt and sag/fall off!!! (especially if using the bitumen backed type)
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pm sent for more details
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Ah you might be right it was 12 years ago and I do not have a 6, must have been the 250.
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All you need is a broom handle.
The idea is to undo the bonnet hinge on the passenger side which is accessible by removing the front headlight and bowl and left the bonnet a few inches which allows you to get the broom handle in to push the released mechanism. Very simple job.
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You are right that building the rolling chassis is very therapeutic and straightforward, it is the rest of it which is not and learning to weld I doubt will help.
Mind you enrolling on a Btec course sounds like a good idea, I think I will look into that.
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You have to be cruel to be kind him.
Tell him in no uncertain terms that his car will never run again and will end it's days spread over his several garages. You know this is likely to be the case.
Then suggest the "Triggers Broom" restoration method ((which I have just TM'd and patented)
Since he now has a new chassis, and wants to build it up with new nuts, bolts, bushes, new consumables, recon calipers, slave cylinders and so on there is already very little left of the original rolling chassis.
The next stage is to buy a rough complete car with a good shell, suggest a lhd model and clean and paint it putting the finished product on the new chassis. He can even re fit the remaining undamaged panels and any remaining trim although he will no doubt want to restore that too.
Explain how to swap the identity from the crashed tub to the new tub and hey presto 3 years of misery and frustration rubbed out in an instant leaving him with just 2 years of pain and misery to complete his first restoration:-).
Trigger had his broom for 20 years you know, 17 heads and 12 handles and it never failed him.
(MODERATOR INSERT - Check this out for legalities and compliance before trying the above https://www.gov.uk/v...lassic-vehicles)
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Did you tell him how long it would take and how much it would cost doing the restoration as you described?
My suggestion would have been to buy another TR6 and sell the bits of his car.
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I have only just read this so maybe a little late.
Firstly the inlet butterflies need regular maintenance, it is actually part of the service schedule.
The process is very simple but you will need to buy a gunson carb balancer to do it (V cheap on ebay)
This is what you do:
Remove plenum chamber
Disconnect the throttle bodies from the choke and accelerator cable and MU.
Loosen all screws and adjusters so as to effectively disconnect the throttle linkage from having any effect on the butterflies
Shut off the air bleed. Before doing this it is a good idea to remover the screw and thoroughly clean the pointed end and the mating surface inside the housing. Carb cleaner will do fine.
Now with the butterflies within each manifold totally free of any interference and the engine idling put the carb balancer on each butterfly and note the difference in airflow.
What I would expect to see is a different reading for each individual butterfly.
Once that has been done undo both screws on each butterfly so they are loose and snap them shut several times to re position the butterfly.
That should do the trick.
However when I do this I remove the manifolds, thoroughly clean the throats and butterflies with carb cleaner and then snap shut each one. Doing it this way allows you to see and adjust each butterfly disc.
Put them back on and using the carb balancer set up the throttle linkage as you would do if you were setting up SU's.
Sorry to be brief but I am being shouted at to get off the pc and get in the car to go out.
Hope this helps.
ps All spindles are worn to some extent but not enough to give you the idle you have so I think it is the butterflies.
Run the engine until warmed up.
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I will know that in a week or so when I start viewing so will let you know. I should add that the car is for a friend who has asked me to help find a good one.
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I have just returned and what a fantastic event.
It is an event I wanted to enter a few years back when I had my TR6 race car and having seen the event I feel like building another just for that event.
A truly wonderful day, great weather, viewing and plenty of toilets!
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I have travelled this very route.
Search out a pair of SU's with manifold from a triumph 2500 saloon (obviously the card version not the PI) and bolt them on.
Get an electric petrol pump and plumb it in, you wont need a return pipe to the tank.
You can remove the MU and pedestal so the dizzy sits directly on the block.
There is a vacuum advance take off on the manifold which needs to be blanked off or connected to the dizzy. I ran mine blanked off.
You can buy an accelerator cable and cut it to size and a 2nd one for the choke mechanism.
The su manifold is water heated so that needs to be plumbed in. When refilling with water it is best to backfill rather than via the radiator as you could get an air lock.
So it really is straightforward although my response is from memory.
It should run fine from the off and you can play with needles and advance curves at a later date.
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Hi Simon,
Gumtree you say..............
I will have a look tomorrow
Tom.
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Hi Rod,
Yours sounds ideal but I am looking for a UK CP, but thanks for responding so quickly.
Regards,
Tom.
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Before you start whipping it all apart I suggest, as have others, that you give everything the once over with a stethoscope to isolate the bits which either causing the knock or just as important not causing the knock.
If you are anywhere near me in N London I would be happy to assist as I have a stethoscope and know how to use it!
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I am on the lookout for a nice useable TR6 with O/D which is in good bodily condition and preferably in long term ownership from the seller.
No rust/ filler chassis damage etc just a nice CP with O/D.
I am in N London but happy to travel, can sometimes do weekdays if that helps.
Regards, Tom.
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As I read that you just want to fit the PI from the saloon to the TR6?
If so the parts are interchangeable but for the life of me I cannot recall is the front inlet manifold is the same as on a TR6.
I say this because if you wanted to fit the dellorto's to the saloon you would need a different inlet manifold because the under bonnet clearances are different.
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Ken Mumford has some original window glass, unless he has sold them that is
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Have a look in buy sell trade. The ad I just posted is for a 1965 car with a soft top.
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Make sure you do not but a TR5/6 window glass, the shape is different but looks the same to the untrained eye.
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"£12k"...................................uh!
I recently had my 84 Porsche 911 repainted to a show standard, and there are a lot more bits on a 911 than a tr4a and it cost £2600. My friend was so impressed he had his Vitesse convertible re painted. Now that was a long job and back to bare metal for about £2800 but he did strip the panels off and re fit them (with my help) in the paint shop. He has now won 3 car of the show awards and a few "notable" trophies so he is very pleased.
It would seem to me that some body shops are "having a laugh" when it comes to labour rates or perhaps they do so few full re sprays they are slow workers or realize that small jobs make more money and big jobs do not, so multiply the profit they make from a small job when looking at a full respray
But as has been said finding a good paint shop is like trying to find a good restorer which is like trying to find a good builder and so on.
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I am still laughing at the price achieved.
Nice car indeed but what everyone missed was the value of the number plate!
My friend is also laughing at the price the e type roadster bitsa sold for!
Windscreen Surround Rust repairable?
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
My friend has a rust free screen at the back of his garage if you need one.
The screen frame and it perceived use as protection in the case of a roll over has always been a personal bugbear ever since I saw a TR6 flop over at low speed just by nicking a curb, nasty....very nasty.
If keeping the car a full cage with side impact bars is a worthwhile improvement. I had one in my tr6 racing car and it was unobtrusive and easy to live with.
The rear only roll bars, if they are still sold are probably useless. What is needed is a post by a few people who have survived a roll over with one fitted or pictures of the aftermath. To date I know of no one who has ever had the need to depend on the integrity of the bar in a roll over situation.
Probably proves classic car owners are a bit more careful?