Red 6
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Posts posted by Red 6
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Touchez!
I have the same picture (and colour) also with the cemented and bunged up drain hole.
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Rust and panel fit are problems and they take a long time in the restoration process to remove and get right respectively.
Parts availability are generally good to excellent unless you need body panels at anytime, when you will be in trouble.
One item not mentioned is the engine. With age the water jackets become filled with rust and sludge which then becomes a sort of cement which no "patented" cure can shift. This will lead to overheating as the sludge is thickest on NO4 jacket. I know this as my previous 3a suffered with this and required and engine rebuild. To make sure this never happened again, the car I am currently in the process of selling has had a complete engine rebuild which included new pistons and liners, the block soda blasted and machine washed prior to final engineering and rebuild with all new parts.
This does not come cheap so is often ignored and covered up with a nice engine paint job. My suggestion is to get the seller to prove there are no overheating issues.
I have a series of photos taken at each stage of the rebuild showing how much rust and sludge is present in a running engine before the rebuild which I will publish here with a full article on why 4 pot tr engines overheat. It has been covered many times before but I think my photo's will add to our collective knowledge.
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Normal service has now been resumed thanks to Wayne for helping get my log in back.
I have also discovered how to reduce the size of pictures so here are a few.
Yes I know the fan is on the wrong side of the radiator, thank you, and yes it is in the right place
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I am back!!!
Thanks Wayne
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Truro is a long way to go even if you live in Cornwall!!
But having said that I am open to ideas so lets see what transpires.
I have just been looking out the photo's of the work to date and there is an awful lot of them. When a restoration carries on for so much time it is easy to forget what you actually did to get where you are today.
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Ok maybe I will give ebay a shot but I will check first re the exchange of phone numbers. I know it is different for a classified advert but I do not have a set price in mind. I would like to get most of the investment back but who knows.
I can also try car and classic as it sold my frogeye for me at the beginning of the year.
Re the boxes of bits, there are very few of them as most id back on the car and what is not has already been painted ready for re fitting.
On the horizon is the last chance as a friend has recommended another body shop and they are going to come over later this week to see what's what but I am pretty sure this is the end of the road.
Thanks for all the guidance, and I note Stuart is in Cornwall which is a long trailer ride from N London!
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To be honest I was dead set against eBay as in my book one has to see a car before buying it and especially with a project that has had an awful lot of money lavished on it.
Now my current understanding is that when you auction with eBay the seller and the buyer are no longer allowed to meet outside of the eBay messaging system in that one can no longer ask for a telephone number from either the buyer or seller.
Alec's point about sellers commission has merit but it negates having to deal with "cheek sucking low ballers" nevertheless he makes a very good point (as always so expect a call from me to say hello).
I will have to give this some more thought.
PS I will contact Stuart for an opinion, thanks for the suggestion.
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Here is an update: The boot and wings are fine after all. I have had another body shop assess what needs doing and everything I have is workable however they cannot start the work until April/may time so I have decided to call a halt and sell the car as an on going project.
Most of the work has been done ie engine gearbox chassis steering rack conversion tub painted etc but as to value who knows so I am going to try an auction rather than saying I want £x for it.
Frustrating is not the word!!!
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Does anyone have any experience with selling a car/ project through SWVA in Pool or Anglia classic car auctions in Kings Lynn?
I have decided to call a halt to the restoration of my 3a and pass it on to someone with more time so I thought about the above 2 auctions as being a good place to start or maybe the Triumph spares day. I have no idea what it is worth but probably less than I expect so my thoughts are just put it into an auction but not ebay.
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Peter, I have u2u'd you
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That is what the lecturers at the college said " we'll just weld them up, shrink the high spots done in no time". I am looking for an easier life hence the boot lid but I know in the end it will be weld, bang, hammer, chainsaw!
I will follow up the advice given especially the letter to the local press, although I am trying for a "negotiated settlement" with them.
The one single good thing that came out of this is a machine I had never seen in the flesh before (but did see it on wheeler dealers) and that is a machine that pulls dents and shrinks high spots using a metal wand. Having never seen one in action before it was brilliant. All you do is draw a circle around the bit to be shrunk and cool it with a wet cloth and bingo the high spot (or low spot even) is shrunk. £950 to buy.
It is a shame they did not get around to using it on my car!
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I am on the verge of giving up the restoration of my UK TR3a. I have been B******** about by a local technical college who took on the final panel and outer sill aligning prior to them painting it as a commercial job yet after 3.5 months they have done a big fat nothing. So I have taken the car away from them.
As a parting gift they have damaged to OSR wing so rather than panel beat it I though to ask if anyone has a good one they want to sell.
Also I could do with a boot lid as mine has holes for a boot rack.
I cant understand how a business can take on a job, promise the earth and deliver nothing. It has really frustrated me and to be honest I feel like putting it up for sale as it has taken nearly 3 years to get to this point. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!
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I had my block soda blasted to remove all the rust and associated growths. The chap at holly hill farm on the ridgeway in enfield did an excellent job.
It was then chemically cleaned in one of those high temperature washing machines that engineering firms use before being checked and decked prior to reassembly (well after a dry build to be perfectly accurate).
I am going to post pictures of before and after as it really explains and shows why our engines overheat. I have kept all the rust and sediment as a warning to others.
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Hi Steve, and welcome to the world of TR's.
My contribution would be forget everything until you have assessed the condition of the metalwork, both chassis and body (tub and panels). These cars are rust buckets so the mechanical work is simple and inexpensive (in the grand scheme of things) if you discount the time spent doing the work, whereas metalwork is a money pit.
You will have no problems with the mechanical side, and if you can do a cayman then you can do everything a TR.
Please report back on your progress.
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Fitting the rocker oil feed is a mistake.
The problem is that too much oil ends up in the rocker box.
When you switch the engine off the hot and now thin oil seeps down the valve stems and waits for you to fire up again and all that waiting oil is now in the combustion chamber spewing out blue smoke, fouling the plugs and building carbon deposits in the engine.
That burnt oil needs to be replaced, and the replacement oil finds its way to the rocker box and seeps down the valve stems into the combustion chamber.
It was fashionable about 20 years ago to fit the oil feed but everyone I know who did this removed them, there was quite a glut of 2nd hand ones in tr action.
However it is a rite of passage so fit it or leave it fitted and make you own decision.
On my race engine I had roller rockers but I also had valve stem oil seals so did not suffer with the problem.
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My thoughts entirely.
Please direct all enquiries to my husband...............................
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There is a difference between sound deadening and vibration damping.
I use the foil backed product which is NOT bitumen based.
It is used to stop vibration/resonance on large flat panels such as door skins floors, bonnets boot lids etc and hard tops.
It does not deaden sound per se.
For sound insulation, ie making the cockpit quieter you need an absorbing material such as felt or a modern equivalent.
Thus it is probable that you will use both types of material to achieve the desired outcome.
BTW I have forgotten the name of the vibration damping I use but it is expensive and very very effective as you only need to use small sections to achieve the required damping. I have some ready for my 3a and I will look at the name on the box for you.
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someone needs to get out more
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Blast it and paint it that is all that is needed. The blasting will remove every trace of rot and if holes appear all the better, at least you know where to let in new metal.
I restored a 250 and 19.5 years later the chassis was as good as the day it was blasted and painted with smoothrite whereas I have looked at 9 TVR's recently and all of them had chassis rot where the powdercoating had cracked allowing water ingress. From my general experience with older (1988 and onwards) cars with powdercoated chassis the powdercoating seems to harden and flake like razor blades if you get my metaphor.
Everyone has their own opinion on this subject, mine is based on observation.
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If anyone is still interested I have a TR5 one available as well.
Let me know.
lso in searching for the 5 manual I have found I have the TR6 loose leaf book and one for a Triumph Vitesse, and I have never owned a vitesse so no idea where that came from.
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Actually you are right it is Royal Blue, In my defence I have a substantial quantity of it in 2 pack which I never used as I decided to paint the car red and I have not looked at the label for a while.
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If it helps midnight blue is very black ie very dark and sapphire blue is a deep blue which looks like blue.
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ken mumford is your man for chroming and any repairs to bumpers
Sidescreens available
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I have a pair of side screens for my previous pre 6000 3a if anyone is looking for a pair.
They are as new and un fitted.
I bought them from Ken Mumford who had them re covered with new seals and windows.
No exchange is required so you can purchase them outright and sell you old ones on.
£450 for the pair.
I might have a few other bits and pieces such as wishbones and will create a list once i have sorted my ( empty) garage out next week.