Red 6
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Posts posted by Red 6
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I have some standard pistons spare if you need one, but i think you would be very unlucky if it were a broken.
I was thinking that whilst under the car, ( goggles and bath hat are essential) you can also remove the oil pump (3 bolts) and check the clearance and condition. It will also give you room to work comfortably. And just a thought but as the pistons go back from the top you will need a piston ring tool
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Yes my 6 race engine was bored out and liners fitted, no probs at all and you wont have the cost of buying new pistons.
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As per Ivor's comment re was the car burning oil, but also what symptoms gave rise to you doing a pressure check?
Since the "with oil" results are not a uniform increase from without, it could be your pressure tester thats giving the odd result.
On the plus side it could be valve seats requiring nothing more than removing the head decoking and lapping, and since the head is off you could fit a new set of rings just to be on the safe side.
This can be done by dropping the sump and removing the pistons. It really is a simple as it sounds, but remember to use a glaze buster on the bores or the rings will never ever bed in and oil consumption will rocket.
I have done this many times and it is quite a rewarding and enjoyable project, (and not too expensive) But maybe less so in winter.
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Unless they have changed recently, the problem area is the profile above the swage line at the rear of the front wing.
If you hold the wing level with the leading edge of the door, ie the place where the door and wing need to match, they don't. There dosnt appear to be enough metal used to give the correct length of curve.
Also when fitted you cannot move the wing back far enough to give an acceptable door gap.
A solution is to cut a slit and insert more metal to enable you to panel beat the correct radius and to add on metal to the rear of the wing to get the door gap.
This is a skilled job, it costs and filler is usually required at the end of the job. Best bet is to buy some 2nd hand wings which have been repaired, or fit fibreglass wings and describe the car as a "lightweight" if asked.
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I seem to remember the duct is just 2 shaped pieces of black milboard placed either side of the rad, and in the case of the 250 has a slot or hole to allow the flexipipe from the air box to pass through to get fresh air from the front grille.
The look er how can i say this, an "after thought". You could make up a rathe nice one from flat ally sheet and make it so it enclosed the top of the rad-front panel gap as per the TR6.
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I doubt that will polish out.
The parts to repair will not be expensive, moss have them all but it might be a good idea to go for a 2nd hand bumper and have it rechromed.
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Beat me to it.
It is easier to remove the engine and gearbox in one lump, that way you jack up the front of the car, drop the gearbox tail shaft end and it clears the chassis enging stop with ease.
Also doing it this way (if you are not already) means you ca fit a new clutch etc and reattach the gearbox in comfort them pop the whole thing back in in one simple go.
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I have a very low mileage origional TR5 engine left over from one of my restorations. When i bought the car I had to collect the engine from an engineering company who had stripped the engine for inspection at the request of the then owner. Being only 33k miles from new it was/is in excellent condition, and just needed reassembly with new bearings. I didnt get around to this and as a result have kept it in dry storage. I decided to use it and build a really "serious" engine and assembled "all the right parts" in webbers, cam, alloy bits and shiny alloy bit and some "serious" cylinder heads. Then sold the car it was intended for.
So what do I do, sell off the bits or sell as a whole? (pile of bits obviously)
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The easiest way to get it back is to remove the whole dashboard and metal dash.
It is not as difficult as it sounds, probably an hour or so either way but it means you can get the heater in without effort. On the rhd cars the wiring loom runs both in front of and behind the heater so is a bit of a swine to do it any other way.
I have not read the article mentioned but have done this a few times.
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My tr6 race car 200+ at the wheels, ran faultlessly on standard PI. It revved to 8k and had lots of nice bits inside to hold it all together.
In the 3.5 years I had it and after I sold it the PI did not need maintenance, but there again the mileage was low but the demand placed upon it extreme.
The supplier was KMI (Ken Mills), who also tweaked the MU for the cam I was running.
As regards the triple webbers, even the anticipation of opening the bonnet and looking at them will create excitement, so who cares about performance and there are plenty of roling roads with skills to set and jet the carbs so I cant see that being a problem (My caterham had webbers and was bulletproof).
As to mapped PI that is the way to go. The components to DIY are available on ebay no less. You can buy the trigger wheel and bracket quite cheaply, and the emerald unit is inexpensive and has great back up and advice from Dave Walker (CCC)etc.
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If you can work with PI then this should be a doddle.
Beware random ideas to solve an unknown problem. The important thing is to find the cause and not treat the symptom.
I am sure you are aware of all the problems with the ignition system and componets but in summary even if the component is new, dont trust it, I have just traced a fault to a brand new rotor arm after 1.5 miles of use!
So the carbs:
SU's need only a very low fuel pressure to work but it must be constant. Have you fitted a pressure regulator? and if so how have you checked the pressure and the pressure under load?
I had this very problem with another car and the fault was a slight constriction in the fuel line which meant the pump could not keep up the pressure as the demand for fuel increased. This can be done with a filter regulator fitted with a pressure gauge, I think they are about £30 from demon tweeks.
If you were running lean there would be other evidence present such as white plugs, and then the exhaust colour and deposits.
If it was a pressure problem, the starvation would disappear when the engine was shut down allowing the floats to refill. You would hear this if it were an electric pump but not if it were a mechanical one.
Have you checked the advance is working?
If all else fails you need a rolling road diagnostic session. It will show whether there is an electrical component breakdown
and whether ithe mixture is correct, what it wont show is whether the fuel delivery system working hence start with fitiing a filter king and pressure gauge.
Hope this helps.
ps have you touched the coil to see if it is red hot (after the misfire).
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Overheating should not be a problem with or without the kenlow so check the following, but first the science.
The cooling system works by pressurising the water which in turn increases the boiling point of water and allows the rad to do its thing.
If the sytem dosnt pressurise it is one of the following.
1. Air lock in the system. The method is to fill the radiator with the heater control open until the radiator is full. Replace the cap and remove the water pipe from the heater control. Now back fill with water down the heater pipe until water flows freely from the heater valve and quickly refit and tighten the pipe. Any air will have been flushed from the cylinder head and heater matrix.
2. Air being sucked back into a cooling engine. The pressue caps works 2 ways. It expels expanded water and any air in the system (sometimes)and sucks back water when the engine cools. Air is excluded because the overflow tube is below the water level in the bottle, so check that it is below the water level.
3. Faulty or inccorect pressure cap. Make sure it is a 15 psi rad cap and that it is working. Few people realise that early cars had 4 or 7 caps fitted and later ones 15 so use a 15, the boiling point rises and the cooling is more efficient.
4. Loose circlips or cracked hoses leading to the cooling system not being able to pressurise. This can happen with a hardly noticeable leak.
The best way to test is to obtain a cooling system tester. A dummy cap is placed on the rad and a hand pump "inflates" the cooling system to the desired pressure ie 15psi. One then waits to see if the pressure drops, if it does it is a hose. If it does not then start the engine and check the pressure gauge. If it is still all is good if it pulsated it is a head gasgate.
Oh yes it could be the begining of head gasgate failure.
Overheating is cured quite easily, I have never had a blocked radiator but it could happen. On my tr3a the problem was perpetual and turned out to be a bed of sediment larger than a very large jar of coffee which nothing other than a rebuild would cure, but not on a 6.
I hope this helps and that you can clear it.
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It wasn't so long ago that the use of axle stands would not have been questioned, of course in those days you were lucky to have a pair yet alone 2 pairs, I dreamed of the day etc etc..........
The traditional kerbside solution would be to pile the tyres under the car so when it falls off the "jack2 there will be enough space to prevent being totally crushed. I estimated a pair of 185 15 70's would give enough room but obviously with advancing years and waistline it would take a pair of 17 x 8 55's.
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It could certainly be valve seating. So a quick decoke, maybe change the timing chain while your there, which means you could pop in an uprated cam, then theres the head, perhaps a quick port and flow, then all back together in time for summer.
So just check the clearance and leave well alone as others have alluded.
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I have wilwoods with vented disc's and goodridge hoses on my 250. When travelling fast there is a difference but in normal road use any benefit is phsycological and more to do with the pride associated to having them in the first place.
Having said that on my former tr6 race car I had standard discs and calipers and had no problem arresting the car from 130mph using that set up but with race pads. The pads only worked well when brought up to temperature so for road use felt awful.
To gain any meaningful benefit to braking, and i mean braking under low speed traffic conditions, you have to fit a larger disc,s, and to do that you need to fit larger diameter rims (16" plus).
A lot is talked about pad material, most of this talk is uninformed at best. I can confirm that the pads on my race car really made a difference on a bog standard disc, but began to fade because of heat build up. I could have gone for a pad which had a higher heat theshold but would have taken longer (more laps) to get to a working temperature, and then faded because of heat build up. If this sounds like the song theres a hole in my bucket, you are spot on.
So what do you want to optimise your brake performance for? Road use, then keep it standard, Track days, where the pads will get hot and heat build up will be a factor then 4 pots with ventilated discs and a fast road ie pagid rs 42's, or sprinting where the pads must work from cold and heat is not an issue, then a standard set up will be fine and conform to the reg's
I am in the process of putting my car up for sale and since i expect it to go to France or Germany might have a rather nice set of wilwoods with ventilated disc's (hardly used) for sale. So if you are in the market at such a time you might wish to make a take over bid. Wilwoods are really very good, they are a big company and have spent £lots on product r+d.
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Remove ancillaries, the lightened block/head assembly is then a two-man lift onto a trolley . . .
Cheers,
Alec
Ha ha ha ha April fool.
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Alec, thanks for the quick reply, I will have to look down the local supermarket to see if they are throwing one away.
Regards
Sean
I second Alec's reply and can add that all you need is the bottom part of a standard supermarket trolly basket thing. I use exactly this solution for my spare tr5 engine, gearboc and other bits. Of course getting it on there is the real problem.
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Why on earth would anyone want to stop this thr
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The car in my driveway has long gone and I am about to paint the front door a different colour so that will confuse the thieves. I actually think that if you are a thief, whether or not google shows a particular car to be in a driveway is irrelevant, if google can drive along your street so can the car thieves.
I dont think google pictures will cause many sleepless nights for the sensible.
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Hi Peter,
Recheck the static timing, it sounds like it is out. Use the bulb method (brown book). It would be easier using a timing light with a variable position knob which i am sure you have.
The rotor arm problem is easy to see if you use a strobe as it will double flash in odd position when viewed against the front pully.
Another way to see whats going on with the ignition is to buy a set of 6 led plug tops and watch the flashes. You will see either regular flashes or odd flashes where the rotor arm is shorting.
Having said all this, a blowback condition really leads me to think that if it is not an ignition timing issue it could be a cam timing issue. I have had experience of a "professionally" built engine where the cam was actually in the wrong position, and i just could not believe that such a fundamental mistake had been made.
Best to check it again using a dti to be absolutely sure the cam is in the corect position in relation to the crank/no1 pistion position.
It is a straightforward procedure, but lets hope it is just the rotor arm or static timing.
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Any one have experiance of a 6-3 into twin exhausts so thats first three cylinders into one system rear three cyclinders into one system no conection between them , igot this ss system cheap from james padock and i just no your going to say , its a waste of time or even worster !
Yes I have.
I had a similar twin box system and tubular manifold fitted to my car for a while, I aslo bought it cheap. It sounded nice to a point but robbed the engine of most of its midrange punch.
I changed to a phoenix big bore system and manifold and noticed an immediate improvement (substantial) in mid range, which of course for a road car is where you want the power to be. The real reason i fitted the system was not because of the performance improvement (substantial over what was there before but not a great deal over standard)but because it is easy to fit and remove when changing clutches (note the plural here).
I find the single pipe sysetem almost silent when on a run with the roof down, engine bay temperature is no worse than a standard cast iron manifold. There is no need to wrap or enamel the manifold unless it is for the "look" and to be honest at phoenix price you cant go wrong.
As for other manufacturers, a high price indicates to me either few sales or too much profit.
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I have been lucky enough to have 2 standard front pullys give way, I still have one of them. What happens is the rubber seal perishes and it comes apart. Quite startling when it happens as all you can hear is a very nasty and loud rattle.
Prior to the seal going you may notice the timing is way out on the pully but the engine stil runs fine. This is because the outer ring has slipped.
I doubt these were built to last the lifetime of the car, as they will expire at the lifetime of the rubber seal, which is about now I suppose, for everyone!
As to whether a super damper or similar is worth buying, a friend has just cracked his £2.5k steel crankshaft after only 15k miles, that is what a standard damper can cause if you have an uprated engine. So i suppose the addage of dammed if you do not change the damper and dammed if you have an old damper. (well something like that).
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Or Blue hylomar or welseal
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Hi Robin,
Yes do all the core plugs, but make sure you take time over the rear plug as if it fails in situ, it is easier to remove the engine than to fix it.
The plug set is very cheap, a few £'s last time i did it. Since the engine is out, clean around the plugs with a wire brush to cut down on dirt then drill the plug center and lever out. They will probably be rusted in so a little BF&I is required but they should just pop out.
To fit clean the surrounding area, offer up the new plu and using a socket as a drift, tap the new plug in place. Thats it.
Problems of weeping are usually to do with dirt/ rust on the mateing surfaces. I have used some blue hylomar or welseal just to be on the safe side.
If they weep when reassembled then just tap the plug until it seats properly, which brings me to my origional point most of the plugs are difficult to get to when the engine is reassembled so give a good tap when refirring.
If the worst happens you can add radseal to the water and that should fix it.
photo request under bonnet TR4a
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Can anyone help with this?
I will shortly be fitting the brake and clutch pipes to my 4a restoration, but do not know where they run as i did not remove them in the first place.
If anyone can provide a picture I would be grateful.
Thanks,
Tom