Guest kev Posted May 3, 2004 Report Share Posted May 3, 2004 HI, HERE'S A BIG QUESTION FOR ALL YOU V8 OWNERS. CAN YOU GIVE ME ADVISE ON WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A TR7 V8. WHAT CONVERSION IS BEST? SU'S OR HOLLEY? ORIGINAL TR8 SUBFRAME OR MODIFIED TR7? I HAVE LOADS OF QUESTIONS BUT IF ANYBODY WOULD LIKE TO SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCE I WOULD BE MOST GRATEFUL. I HAVE FOUND THROUGH MY OWN EXPERINCE WITH MY TR7 THAT MOST THINGS ARE LEARNT THE HARDWAY. THANKS KEV Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest hodgie Posted May 3, 2004 Report Share Posted May 3, 2004 I looked at a few before deciding to build my own as they just weren't up to scratch unless I rightfully paid good money. At the end of the day, it does all come down to just that...money. I figured if I was going to spend 3-4k I might as well get the enjoyment out of building it myself and knowing exactly what had been done and choosing what mods to add. Anyway, from looking at others, it is usually fairly apparent when you see a car that has been cared for. Irrespective of what mods it has, most of those issues are easily sorted and a question of personal preference, but just make sure as with any 7 that you have a sound basis. If the chassis is a wreck, that doesn't bode well for the rest of the car and anyone doing a conversion properly (with genuine subframe or not/ again a matter of debate, weight distribution, height etc) will have tended to the body first. If the basis is fine and well cared for it is likely that the rest of the conversion has been carried out with some care and respect also. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Chris Draper Posted May 3, 2004 Report Share Posted May 3, 2004 Hodgie's pretty accurate there but if you're looking for mechanical specifics I'd go with the following: The Holley's better than SU's - more power but probably thirstier. Looks good too, especially with a large chrome pancake filter & K&N. Uprated brakes are essential. Uprated suspension preferable, with poly bushes if you can find one with them. Watch out for clearance between air filter & bonnet - modified sub-frames like the S&S ones tend to fit OK but I think the standard sub-frame needs a lowering kit Also watch for the exhaust knocking under the car if the sub-frame's been lowered. Look at the rear axle ratio. Generally speaking a 3.08 is the one to go for. Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest trminator Posted May 5, 2004 Report Share Posted May 5, 2004 The guy who tuned my V8 a couple of weeks ago used to race TR8s, TR7 V8s and SD1 V8s. He said that the Holley in his opinion is just a "fuel dump" and not, in his opinion a better option than a holley. He waxed lyrical about twin webbers though. Be sure that the rear trailing arm mounting points are up to scratch - the extra torque of the V8 wouldn't be too long in tearing the arse off the back of the car if these points were weak. Ask about cam shafts - fast road cams give extra umph but the idle tends to be lumpy and driving the car at slow speeds uncomfortable. -Kyle One more thing - Be sure and do all the other TR7 buying checks. It is very easy to be suduced by the V8 grumble. Good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted May 6, 2004 Report Share Posted May 6, 2004 When checking over the engine, follow the advice listed on the link below, I assume information for the V8 in the 7 is the same as a Rover engine? V8 checkover. Malc-this is not another piss take, honest. Did you like the last one? Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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