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Found 77 results

  1. Hi there, as newbie TR7 V8 owner, I have acquired a recent conversion with (I think) an SD1 V8 which on a recent run round the M25 and M3 at a steady 50-70mph (yes even on the M25!) the temp gauge showed N but upon stopping at Fleet services some steam wisped out. Opened the bonnet, and much steam, quite a bit from around the exhaust manifold, and loosening the overflow tank cap, a lot of pressurised hot water spurted out. So the car has new rad, twin fans (which are working) , the heater still pumping out hot air into the car, belts tight, but the coolant (which was replaced only a few weeks back) looks dark (& dare I say it, oily) but no sign of creamy deposits anywhere. I did notice a couple of strips of (what looked like) red elastic band being ejected with the coolant suggesting a gasket has gone somewhere in the system. Ideas welcome, but I am thinking I need a new thermostat, and/or water pump, not least as some evidence of wetness on the low cross member under the front of the engine. Thanks!
  2. Hi All I am currently putting together an article for the TRaction magazine on the ACN TR8's (not preaching to the converted but these were the approx. 150 TR8 pre-production cars that were, in the main, sent to North America for evaluation). If anyone has one of these cars (please just the ones with the VIN starting ACN ...) then please drop me a line (drcsmith2@hotmail.com) .. it's not important if it is a box on parts in a garage or a concours one. I do own a number of these TR8's, here is one of my favourites, a TR8 which never left the UK and was factory fitted with fuel injection ... known as 'Bumpy'
  3. Folks. I have been constantly hearing regards fake cars. Time to do something simple ie post the suspect cars and let some so called experts help unsuspecting buyers. It will be very easy to create a database on FaceBook. yes I know a lot of people dont like FB but do you like the idea of of people buying cars that are 'Ringer's?' Doesnt that damage our reputations too. Those new owners might just join the register one day. So there we are to start the ball rolling I have started a FB group for this. If you have good knowledge please pop over and either give your expertise, post photos of cars or if you need a hand deciding anyway. Please help other to look after the Marque in this sense too. Tony The 'TR Ringers' FB group. To combat the despicable habit of selling cars for what they are not Such as Tr250's as Tr5's and Tr7 with a v8 as Tr8's I have started another group. You are free to join if you can give advise or want to check a car? The official wording is Welcome to this group. It has been formed to address the ever increasing number of Tr's that are being converted and then sold as something they didn't come out of the factory as for instance a Tr250 being sold as a Tr5 or a Tr7 which has had a 3500 v8 conversion. Whether you want to help stop the phenomenon or need help assessing a car. Please join the cause. https://www.facebook.com/groups/234504900530639/?ref=br_rs
  4. Hi All Looking to the near future I will have a FHC shell ACG36660 with sunroof aperture available free to a good home. I have owned this car since 1989 and for the latter part has been converted and used as a V8. Originally java green, now matt black. It still has it's original sills etc, although they had small local repairs, let in properly, a long while back which have stood the test of time well. I think the well used expression is solid! I feel it is too good to scrap and worth saving. The reason I am looking to move the shell on is that I never liked the sunroof and have now managed to build up second FHC with a solid roof. Also my wife would be delighted if I reduced my vehicle numbers. If interested send me a PM. Regards David
  5. Had a great run in the TR7 V8 this weekend but then washed the car to get rid of the muck, step back to admire the gleam, and one headlamp pod is raised..then gradually jerks down in steps until closed, when the other side jerks up in 4 or 5 steps to fully raised, then jerked down and reverts to other one, and so on. Slight electrical burning smell in cockpit, so undo fuse cover and which fuse? Couldn't find anything in manuals other than which one is dipped beam - removed those but no effect, the pods are still winking alternately. So tried turning ignition on and switching on the lamps, no joy, turn off ignition and pods still winking at me. Finally disconnected battery as the burning smell is a worry. Reconnected and they start again. Disconnected the battery again, timing to coincide with the brief moment when pods are both down, and hey presto, once reconnected they stayed down! No burning smell and working headlamps. Any ideas anyone? Surely not just water on the connections from where I washed it? I washed by hand so not a question of high pressure water jets getting to where they shouldn't. Thanks David
  6. Help, having had a great morning run out in my TR7 V8 with the roof down and parked amongst several other Triumphs of various types, my son who was driving my MGB V8 parked nearby with a line up of MGBs and Midgets. Now with apologies for raising a query here that isn't strictly technical but not sure where else to post...I took both sets of keys for both cars, and came back with both TR7 keys but only one set of MGB keys. So if you went to the Bicester Scramble on Sunday 7th Jan, is there any remotest fluke of a chance that you stumbled across a set of MG keys on an MG key ring? Yes I know very unlikely but so is winning the lottery, but we still buy tickets. Anyway just in case a club member happened to spot them and picked them up.... Thanks David
  7. Hi, I have a warmed-up 4.6L Range Rover engine with 14CUX EFI (Tornado chip) on top. Its my daily ride and I track the car with the club. Its time to overhaul the fuel delivery system and I'd like to do it right the first go (just for a change). The car goes well up to a little over 3,000 rpm then the power dies off. I'm suspicious that its fuel starved. I have a swirl pot in the boot, the original hard fuel line (which looks too small), a pressure gauge inline and a choice between vacuum or manually-adjustable regulator. I'd be most grateful for advice on how to put this together. What size fuel lines? What type of lines and fittings? Optimal pumps and filter? What is the optimal fuel pressure? There is a narrow aperture pipe at the entrance to the fuel rail that the fuel hose fits onto. Is this a problem? Cheers Michael
  8. Following on from Jeff's to modify or not I would say go for it. My question is that I would like to remove the heavy front and rear bumpers. Does anyone know whether this causes structural or driving/handling issues? I am happy to fix a lighter member between the mountings if necessary. I cannot imagine that racing 7s maintain them. Apologies if this has been discussed before. David
  9. I have a TR7V8 DHC which has been languishing in the garage for 10+ years. It runs , needs MOT and then I want to bring it up to snuff. My sometime back preference would have been to do away with the original black spoiler and fit the race version and painted the black bumpers the body colour. Life now seems to be to prefer original. Would appreciate comments Jeff
  10. What looks like a bargain alternator spotted on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-ROVER-SD1-3500SE-VANDEN-PLAS-VITESSE-LUCAS-ALTERNATOR-NOS-/202088828506 and another http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-RANGE-ROVER-TRIUMPH-TR7-TVR-TASMIN-350i-390SE-LUCAS-ALTERNATOR-NOS-/202088818550 and a pair of real rarities, OE foglamps . . . . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-PAIR-OF-TRIUMPH-TR7-TR8-AUSTIN-ALLEGRO-ROVER-SD1-FRONT-FOG-LIGHTS-NOS-/192341468856 Usual disclaimers, I just spotted these browsing Cheers Alec
  11. As many of you may be aware, over the years I've squirrelled away an awful lot of TR7, TR8 and V8 parts both new and used. Over the past couple of years I have thinned the stock considerably, now that we have only the TR8 Drag Car and my son Tom's black fhc remaining with us, but there is a fair amount still in my store. That amounts to all sorts, from rusty old wheels and endless minor items through to various used and even a new panel or two, and assorted mechanicals of many a variety through electrics and trim. Quantity wise, think a proper Transit, not Connect or Partner size, van required. Wherever I'm going when I kick the bucket, this lot won't be coming with me - that's for sure. I'd like to get shot of it out of Diane's hair before then. It won't be silly money, but nor will it be given away - it is part of her pension fund after all ! No way can I get involved in looking for individual requests for items - sorry, my time is too short, end of. Anyone with a serious interest in shifting the whole damn kit and caboodle in one go, please drop me a PM or email and we'll have a chat, and once I'm back from Spa 6 Hours we can look at what's there in more detail - once some of it has been dragged out to the light of day. Cheers, Alec
  12. Not often you see a pair of nos original TR7 seatbelts . . . . . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-GENUINE-BRITISH-LEYLAND-TRIUMPH-TR7-TR8-LH-RH-SEAT-BELT-KITS-NOS/192303203568?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Nowt to do with me - I have bought odd Humber items from Simon, excellent seller, so tend to look occasionally at what he's offering, and spotted these. Cheers, Alec
  13. NOW SOLD I have for sale one car set of 4 NOS original Triumph bulb holders for the front and rear side marker lamps of TR7/8 cars. Rimmers car these 'Cruise Lights' and their part number is 13H5270 or 13H5270L Both no longer available. Price for 4 bulb holders plus UK postage GB £ 15.00. PM if interested Peter W
  14. Trying to have a look through the forum but can only see the top 4 threads, why are all the older ones hidden? how do I find them?? All the other forums appear to be OK KC
  15. This all makes fair sense. Fitting a cooler thermostat will not stop overheating - just delay it. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/ Increasing pressure of radiator cap will raise boiling point. .... But to my mind may explode your TR2/3 Smiths heater....it is also said the bellows thermostat will not work correctly if over 4psi radiator cap pressure is used. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2011/06/beating-the-heat-advantage-of-a-high-pressure-radiator-cap/ link to Redline Water Wetter Moss Europe http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/water-wetter-335ml-mm220-115.html Probably cheaper on ebay - you can even buy the stuff premixed with de ionised water. Peter W
  16. Can anyone tell me the correct assembly sequence for the steering gear on the TR7/8 please? I'm putting my Grinnall back together and can't get the in-engine bay upper linkage to pull up to the wavy washer. Many thanks Keith
  17. A trio of proper quality items recently introduced by my old pal Martin Jay, Dissie Doc . . . . . . and no, I'm not on commission before you ask !! http://www.distributordoctor.com/new_parts_available.html The AC Delco condensers have plagued me in the past, the OE items were never much cop and the subsequent Unipart, CI etc repros worse, these things from DD should work properly as they come from the same guys who make his top notch Lucas condensers. His agent in India seems to be doing an excellent job from what I've seen - not surprisingly, the chaps actually manufacturing Martin's items are delighted to be able to make things up to a standard rather than down to a price. No question, they do a bloody good job. Sure they cost more, quality does. The other two items are V8 rotor arms, again pukka spec and both versions. New supplier, and the rotors look to me like the dog's danglies. 5 year guarantee against manufacturing defect, even in competition application, must be a record ? There are plenty of budget 'one size fits all' repros on offer, but unfortunately by trying to cover both applications in one design these things don't do a decent job in either fitment . . . . . as in they do work, but only just, and certainly not a high rpm. Admittedly the budget onesies are much cheaper, but you get what you pay for . . . . . and what's the point in a V8 that won't rev cleanly ? Cheers Alec
  18. Just been reading this on the Stag forum, depending upon how this is adopted or implemented it could mean cars with modifications have problems. I have no problem with an MOT it's the largess it gives governments to control and manipulate what they decide is "original". https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/554763/historic-vehicles-consultation.pdf Mick Richards
  19. I started the fitting of a Rover SD1 axle to my 7V8 FHC over some 20 years ago but it stalled due to various other mods. My aim was to use the Rover axle with the additional track and 3.08 ratio. Fitting TR7 axle brackets and V8 propshaft the car now drives.I have finally managed to get to try out all my endeavors. I am now faced with a design problem I had not foreseen. I had presumed the main central axle castings of 7 and SD1 were similar seeing as the crown wheel and pinions are interchangeable. Not so! I have noticed that the propshaft drive flange on the Rover axle sits approx. 1"(25mm) off centre when viewed down the car from the rear.This causes the propshaft to run in a non parallel route along the tunnel and causes the shaft to foul the drivers side exhaust box heat shield at the rear. I should add that the wheels are equidistant from the car body. My question is has anyone else had similar problems? I have heard somewhere that the angles the props can move should be limited. I had thought that this was a tried and tested modification? If anyone has an SD1 what line does the prop. take as it runs rearwards from the gearbox drive flange? I also checked an old 4 speed/auto. axle I have and even that has an off set of around 3/8"(10mm) Any solutions/thoughts most welcome. Thanks in advance David
  20. Hi, in my search for a good TR7/V8 I spotted this one which is for sale at First Select Motorhomes in Canterbury. As I'm in deepest Cornwall, which is too far for a look see, I thought I would appeal for help. If anyone knows it or is close enough to take a look for me I would be most grateful. Cheers, Rodders.
  21. jothecat

    For Sale

    Advert seems to have disappeared from the Buy Sell & trade section; so here is a reminder. 1980 TR7 V8 Convertible 4.6litre 342 BHP Numerous winner of Pride of Ownership at TR IWE Lowered suspension Poly Bushed Revington front brake conversion SD1 Vitesse rear brakes Custom rear springs Shortened gear lever remote Power steering Custom 5 core radiator electric fan Holley Carb Edelbrock manifold Road Race Cam Lightened Flywheel Retrimmed in leather £12k
  22. My TR7 V8 pop ups work fine except, on daylight flash, the lights come on but have gone off by the time they have popped up! Whilst up, the lights will come on while holding the daylight flasher. The main dashboard switch works fine. It's driving me nuts trying to find the problem. Any ideas anyone....please.
  23. I'm in the bad books of a couple of Wedge owners - for not having mentioned here that I've been clearing surplus parts on the 'bay . . . . . In fairness I had mentioned my stuff At The Bar, but evidently I should have mentioned it in the TR7/8 Forum too . . . . Link - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?item=381473955169&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&_ssn=alecs_tr_garage_clearance&_sop=1 Can I remind interested viewers that if I have something on auction then it stays on auction - I don't play games with ending listings early for a sudden buy it now or an off ebay sale. That sort of dodgy dealing simply disappoints everyone else who bids and watches in good faith. Cheers Alec
  24. Hi Folks Looking for a Tidy Roadgoing TR7 V8 DHC for a friend. Not looking for anything with wide arches or extreme body kits. If you know of anything suitable please drop me a PM Alan
  25. Hi, I finally have my dream engine in the TR7 (RRover 4.6L with fast street cam and high comp pistons, totally re-built). Hoping to fire it up for the first time this week, using my reliable old carb. However, the carb is being replaced with Lucas Hotwire (14CUX) EFI. Its all cleaned up and I have the vacuum and coolant plumbing sorted (I think), but wiring diagrams are protected like national security depends on it. Does anyone have access to a clear diagram for the 14CUX or, better still, instructions on how to integrate the whole EFI/ECU into a TR7/TR8? There must be lots of guys who have done this successfully. Thanks Mike
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