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Found 103 results

  1. Hello, tinkering with my instruments. Any advise and thoughts on replacing bulbs with LED? Are they dimmable? Couldn’t find to much in the search. Thanks Keith
  2. Hi , I have an early tr4 myself (chassis around 6800). After some research, it turned out that my tr4 must have instruments with long needles. This like the tr3. My question was what about the lighting? My instruments (with short needles) have a light for each on the back. The tr3 instruments have two central lights, I thought. Is this correct? So for my tr4, do I have to have instruments with long needles and the system of two central lights (TR3) or the back of the new model (short needles TR4) and the front of a TR3 (convex glass, long needles). I hope someone can help me out :).
  3. Hi All A very quick question; does anyone know if the metal dash is different between the TR4 and the TR4A (aside from the fact the TR4A has the additonal veneered bit)? I want to put a TR4 metal dash on a TR4A and need to make sure the instruments and switches will still all fit. As usual, thank you all in advance!!! Adam
  4. Hi Folks, yesterday I renewed the battery on my '64 TR4 and the guy tested the battery under load [engine running, lights on]. It gave 13.8 volts so all well. However, the alternator conversion is causing the ammeter to give a significant apparent discharge. Does anyone have details of wiring which correct the ammeter reading to include alternator input? Pic attached of the ammeter with engine running and lights on. Best wishes Willie
  5. DRD

    Rev Counter

    Hi All, I've been trying to fix my under-reading tachometer - it reads 4,000rpm when it really is 5,000rpm. Lower down the rev range it seems better and the speedo is pretty good compared with GPS. I've swapped over to a refurbed/calibrated gauge and its still no better. I've checked the cable and that seems OK, the inner turns freely and doesn't seem worn at the ends. Is there anything else I could check or change? Thanks Darren
  6. Cometbob

    Speedo repair

    Hello, does anyone know of a source of speedometer internal components? I'm looking for a small white plastic gear which is located inside the speedo. There are 2 gears inside which are worm-driven, and one of them has cracked, which I'm pretty sure is the cause of my annoying needle flicker. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has had the same problem? I discovered the cracked gear during my investigation into the needle flicker. First I checked the speedo cable, which was in good condition. Then I rotated the speedo drive directly into the speedo with an electric drill, and this gave a steady needle. That stumped me at first because there was no obvious cause, but then I rotated the drive with a small screwdriver and noticed it was stiff to turn roughly every 20 rotations. So then I took the speedo apart to try to find what was causing the stiffness and eventually spotted a slight crack in one of the gears which must be increasing the gear tooth pitch and therefore causing the worm drive to jam slightly every time the crack passed it. Anyway, so that's why I'm looking for a replacement gear!! Any suggestions of a source of replacement gears will be much appreciated. Alternatively does anyone have a speedo for sale?. Working or not working (I just need the gear out of it).
  7. Hi all I have a 1972 PI with ignition on the steering column. I discovered the other day that the spring that returns the ignition key from "start" to "run" appears to have failed. Before going the whole hog and replacing the ignition unit (which seems like a sledgehammer to crack a nut) I want to remove the ignition barrel and do some investigation. Plenty of instructions on how to do that, but I can't for the life of me find how to remove the padded trim around the keyhole. How is it fixed - I don't want to force it. Any guidance gratefully received!
  8. The Trip meter in UOV has never worked since we've had the car, not really a big issue ......except we have signed up for the Silverstone Retro run and have just received the route book, and its all written up as 'in .7 miles turn left' Etc so a working trip meter would be really useful. TR shop are looking to see if they have a replacement unit, but ideally I would like to keep the original speedo with the car and time really doesn't permit getting the original speedo rebuilt professionally. So anybody out there with a fix ? I've had a very careful peek inside and the problem appears to be that the arm that engages on the brass cog that drives the numbers doesn't appear to be able to advance the numbers on the display, it appears to be going through the motions but as they say 'where the rubber meets the road' or in this case where the 'tooth' meets the brass the 2 do not appear to have enough mechanical interface to increment the milage. ATB Graham
  9. Hi All Kind of linked to my previous Overdrive post (Electricy Help) but more help needed with my electrical bits. So for info it’s a UK 72 Pi and I’m installing ALL new Autosparks harnesses for the model and options. So the Autosparks mini harness code 865 goes from the relay and ends up with two spurs, one goes to the OD and connects via another little harness BC58, and hopefully I’ve got that bit ok now. But there is still that question where does the second spur off the 865 Relay to OD harness go. It has to go to the OD switch right? But harness has a yellow green wire and a plain yellow, but the switch has the same yellow green but a black. Hmm. I suppose the black earth from switch can connect to any earth but not sure about the single yellow from the OD harness (865)? Then there is a spur off the main harness, kind of after the heater and behind the Tacho. It contains 4 wires, 3 brown of varying thicknesses and a white with a red trace. So not sure what it is or where it goes. I was thinking through the bulkhead to supply the starter but not sure. Slightly daft question, apart from the Horn wiring do all three column switches go under the steering column harness cover (part 611369) I’m assuming they do but it seems a bit tight through the alloy column clamps (611529 and 611530). Hopefully pics below will help. Cheers Keith
  10. Hi Troops - gathering all the parts needed to put the dashtop and dashboard back together again. Got the new switch plinth wedged in, I see the original has a metal back which the new one doesn't but guess it's ok. I've been hunting in the Rimmer catalogue for new rubber rings for all the instruments to fit back into dashboard and can't find them listed. Any hints where I can get the full set from? All the instruments were working before removal, will I need anything else for re-fitting? Many Thanks as always Christine
  11. For various reasons yesterday was the first time I could take my 1970 CP for a serious run after the winter lay up. After about 2 miles the rev counter started swinging wildly from side to side and eventually stopped working with the needle at zero. But then suddenly after a further 20 miles it started working perfectly again and was still working today. Was it just lack of use or do I need to investigate further or perhaps disconnect at the dissy end and put a few drops of oil in the cable? Anybody got any idea as to what was going on? John
  12. Hi All My speedo drive cable snapped & the end ( I think about 2 mm ) is stuck in the housing on the speedometer. Any ideas how to extract it ? Appreciated
  13. Just about to replace my dashboard with a lovely burr elm one and cappings purchased at the Stonleigh show. How easy is it and are there any tips anyone can give me? I am considering changing the bulbs to LED to properly illuminate the instruments. Has anyone any experience of these bulbs and what is their longevity?
  14. On a recent trip in during a deluge I became utterly frustrated accessing my wiper switch. The has CR a rotary affair hidden behind the overdrive lever. OK I have exacerbated the problem by adjusting my steering column as close to the dash as it will go (doesn't everyone?), therefore bringing the overdrive lever very close to the wiper switch. Oh to have a rocker switch like the CP . The rotary switch is downright dangerous to fiddle around with. To overcome the problem I have fitted a Lucas Off-On-On toggle switch and a push button alongside it for the washers on a home made auxiliary switch panel just under the dash. So much better. Why-oh-why did Triumph fiddle with the the CP design - madness!
  15. What is the best way to both replace those annoying dashboard pull knobs in the centre consul? I had to break apart the interior light one , I have replacements for the tatty four others but dont know the best wat to remove them, as it took a lot of force for the interior light one that was removed from the car for the process. Also the replacement interior light one now doesnt want to stay on even with weak glue. Do I have to Araldite it on with the same problems if I need to remove it in the future. Any suggestions would be greatly received.
  16. I'm confused, I have a "modern-classic" Smith electric temp. gauge and it shows over 100 deg C when I can measure around 75 deg C with an IR thermometer on various parts of cooling system including the sender and I'm sure the thermostat has opened. I have 9-10 V feed to the gauge. At ambient temperature the sender has about 1050 ohm resistance, I have two other senders, an old one with approx 500 ohm and another brand new one with approx 850 ohm. Which one should I use, by instinct I would say the one in the car as higher resistance should give lower reading, but ....?
  17. I am fitting my new Racetorations gearbox tunnel to the TR4A. It has the removable cover that goes over the right angle speedo drive. My car came without the right angle drive when I bought it and I have had 2 speedo cables break because of the sharp angle that they come out of the gearbox onto the floor of the car. I have bought a new right angle drive. I was looking at it yesterday and realised that it reverses the rotation of the cable. How is this going to affect my speedo? Did the cars with the right angle drive have a different speedo?
  18. The first of a few questions after tonights work in the garage. I've searched and found almost the answer I wanted, but can anyone point out where the washer hose comes into the cabin area? I've taken a pic where I think it comes out before heading towards the passenger side and out to the washer bottle. Can anyone confirm this is correct? Thanks Andrew
  19. FULL KIT .... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/352062397035?
  20. Just posted on the B/S/T section: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/1236/Complete-dashboard-TR5250-LHD PM or email if any interest.
  21. Hi Folks, Hope you all had a great day yesterday re Drive It Day! Fab weather in the Midlands/North Wales areas. Anyway, during my 270 mile run yesterday, my tacho decided to 'max out' at 2000rpm only, regardless of revs/speed. Nothing to suggest anything different/other gauges all working re electrics etc......, so confused from Derby!! Any thoughts / tacho 'guru's' out there with any advise etc? Many thanks, Chas
  22. Hi, I am thinking that i might like to have an air-conditioning kit fitted to my UK spec right hand drive, petrol injected TR6 which is a 1974 CR model. Does anyone have any experience with this and who is the best outfit to have this done by?
  23. As you will recall, I have been looking (or not) at my dash lights. I still am (not). As a reminder, the lights for the dash, tacho and speedo simultaneously stopped lighting, however, the ammeter fitted with the alternator glows bright. The indicator and ignition lamps also work fine (as does everything else electrical) It is the early 3A push/pull switch. I can see no loose wires. I assumed that rather than all 6 bulbs blowing together, it might be the switch (2H4841), but as the ammeter comes on via the panel light switch, I assumed that it must still work ? Is this correct, or could the ammeter be getting feed through a faulty switch but not the dash or speedo Annoyingly, the packet of replacement LED bulbs from China have gone walkies, so I wasn't able to check replacement bulbs. I thought maybe all the bulbs are in series, but the wiring diagram suggests not all ? Before I buy a new switch just in case and new bulbs, LED or not, just in case, any other thoughts ? If I am testing current, what should I be testing?? switch on off ? supply at any of the bulb holders (with switch on and off?) ? Do i put the red lead from the multi meter on the bulb holder and the black to earth ?? ps, other than china, who does the best value E10/987 equivalent ?? Thanks as always.
  24. Hi All Not sure this is a marque specific technical query, so apologies if in the wrong forum. A few of you have been very helpful over the past couple of months answering various questions (overdrive, electrical etc) so thanks for that. The jobs I have undertaken have taken me on a tour of the wiring harness, which appears to be in good condition and original. One of the objectives was to strip out of the car some horrible wiring additions and modifications for various accessories that have been incorporated over the years and to recover the wiring 'properly' - or as best I can as an untrained auto electrician anyway - and to an original standard. Along the way it quickly became apparent that the car (a late TR5) does not seem to be fitted with a standard harness/equipment in that, for example, things like interior/glove box light and associated door switches are all fitted. They appear to be wired into a factory loom designed to take them (not in keeping with the TR5 wiring digram). To the best of my knowledge these were only fitted from TR6 onwards. My initial thought was that maybe the late TR5s were fitted with TR6 harnesses, however this is not consistent with the fact that in the early TR6 harnesses there is also provision for hazard flashers etc which are not present in the TR5. Also my wiper switch is a 3 pin version (as per the TR5 wiring diagram) whereas the TR6 diagram shows 4 pin. My current conclusion is that for late TR5s, in the run up to TR6 production, a hybrid harness/equipment fit may have been used that incorporated some of the TR6 equipment (interior lights etc), but not all (hazards). It would be interesting to know what the background is from those better versed than myself (all of you!) in the possible vagaries of TR5/6 production anomalies. Despite the horrible extraneous stuff I have removed, the underlying loom looks original and unmodified from the factory. The reference document for all the above comments is the set of diagrams at http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf. In the absence of a TR5 diagram, I have assumed(!!) that the TR250 diagram is equivalent. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Dave
  25. Hi chaps I am after some advice on my 1972 car gauges. I want to remove the class from each gauge in order to clean the inside etc. It looks like this is possible by using a screwdriver and just levering the black outer retainer from the main body but I am not sure. In addition I am having difficulty in removing the thermostat illumination lights knob. I have assumed it just pulls off. Is this correct before I use excessive force. Any help would be much appreciated. Kind regards John.
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