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Found 181 results

  1. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    The attached sound file is a recording of the noise emanating from my gearbox. 1973 TR6 with J type O/D. I have owned the car since 1979. Taken off the road in 1982. 68K miles. The clutch and plate are 700 miles old. The thrust bearing squeals slightly and will probably need changing but I don’t suspect that it’s the thrust bearing which is causing this particular noise; however, I’m open to your opinion. The noise is progressively getting worse, hardly noticeable 400 miles ago. The noise occurs in every gear but only occurs when the gearbox is under load and stops when the throttle is eased back and the load released. It also occurs with or without the O/D engaged. I don’t think it’s the gearstick fizzing (I had a Triumph Herald which did that) There’s plenty of the correct grade oil in the box. New UJ’s on the prop shaft (700 miles) I suppose it could be coming from the O/D rather than the gearbox, but again open to ideas. Anyone heard this noise or any ideas before I remove the box and pull it apart. Many Thanks Ross TR6 Gearbox Noise.m4a
  2. Hi All Well this started a number of months ago when my overdrive started dropping out randomly when in 4th OD. I was sure it was an electrical issue as it could work fine for hours of driving. It appeared to be worse when hot and tended to happen when the revs dropped while still in fourth. I checked all the electric and couldn’t fine a problem and as we were about to head off to Spain and France with the car I decided to leave it alone. We covered 2380 miles, 3 Tr6s with no problems, however my overdrive continued misbehaving, a little worse in the hot weather. However we arrived back in Portsmouth and drove straight home, 505 miles and it performed perfectly. I have a number of jobs to do on the car this winter; including recovering the central dash support, so I decided to remove the gearbox cover to try and sort out this problem. I checked the electrics and everything works correctly, so I fitted my pressure gauge and disconnected the propshaft. At tick over in neutral the pressure is 100psi In 4th gear at 2500 to 3000rpm the pressure is 450psi engage Overdrive it drops momentarily to 200psi then back to 450psi disengage OD and the pressure doesn’t move. So far so good. However once I reduce the revs the pressure immediately drops to 100psi and if I then turn off the engine it drops to zero within a minute. So my question is, am I correct in thinking the pressure should be maintained, and if so what could be causing it to drop. Thanks Cameron
  3. Hi all, This might seem a strange set of questions but I'm trying to understand how to operate overdrive as I've never driven with this before, and I'm hoping to have my car back soon- it really has been the slowest and most stalled of rebuilds ever known!! I know o/d can be used in 3rd and 4th on mine. 1. When should I operate o/d for the first time on a journey - do I have to be at a certain speed and in 4th at first selection? 2. Do I need to deselect o/d before shifting down from 4th to 3rd? 3. Do I need to deselect o/d before shitfting up from 3rd to 4th? 4. When I turn the engine off is o/d cancelled if I haven't already done it? ie will it still be in o/d when I next turn the car on? 5. Is there an easy way to know if o/d is selected whilst driving (other than the revs being lower)? Thanks, Steve
  4. Morning folks, Just stripped down a nice straight TR4 chassis which has this damage to the gearbox mounts both sides of the chassis rail...is this a common problem, what causes it? Anyone encountered this before?
  5. AarhusTr6

    Gearbox ID

    Hi I have a number on gearbox which I do not understand. can someone help please? It has V2946 on it and another has CD29091. I found a link to a database of Triumph gearboxes but it seems not to work. Thanks in anticipation, Rich
  6. Hi All. It's been a good while since I have felt the need to consult the esteemed members of this group, and hope your advice will enable me to reach the correct decision. I have a 1971 TR6 which unfortunately is a non overdrive model. I am considering having an A type overdrive & gearbox fitted, and given the estimated cost of around £2,500 (ish) I am wondering if it's a worthwhile expenditure? I specifically want an A type overdrive, as that's what would have been fitted in 1971, rather than the apparently more 'robust' J type. I suppose my question is with regards to the residual value once an overdrive is fitted - is an overdrive model more valuable than a non overdrive model. Not necessarily overly concerned with recouping all of the cost of installation, but it'd be nice to think the car might increase by 50% of the cost? Thoughts please... Regards Peter
  7. I'm attempting to convert a top-cover from the push-fit plugs holding the detent springs in place(156665), to the screwed type (108166). I have tapped the holes out to 7/16" UNF and have some brass threaded rod to match but I don't have a pattern to hand. Could someone with a collection of gearbox bits let me know how thick/deep the screwed plugs should be? Any advice welcome
  8. The long bolt passing through the gear lever cap (3.5"× 1/4 unf), part BH604281 in the Moss book, is worn along its length, and may be contributing to gear lever rattle/vibration. I think the standard replacement bolt is not especially hard, and will wear fairly quickly. Has anybody else had this issue, and maybe sourced a higher grade bolt? Thanks Mike
  9. So I have finally managed to get the gearbox out after an afternoon of struggling. I had forgotten that you have to remove the half moon shaped sealing plate at the bottom of the bell housing before you can slide the box back. Doh. How anyone can remove an overdrive box without some sort of crane is beyond me, I can only just lift it when I am standing over it, let alone at arms length bent over double in the car. Next step is to deal with the leaks. Rgds Ian
  10. I am getting close to getting the TR6 re-registered and back out there on the road. A few cursory test drives around the block highlighted a few things to sort out, but the most worrying is that I get what feels like clutch slip but only in 2nd gear. Having used the search function, the worst case seems to be that it could be the uni-directional bearing is shot but the overdrive was rebuilt not long before the car went off the road and the diagnosis was all OK in the overdrive and box. Its probably done < 5,000 miles since. Clutch was replaced at the same time and there are no noises or anything that would suggest a problem. I havent had an opportunity to do the basics like check G/B oil levels since its been re-fitted, but out of the car (prior to mating it up to the engine) the level was checked and no noticeable leaks have occurred since. It didnt do this before it went off the road either. Are there any other checks I could do before stripping the box out again to replace the uni-directional bearing? Could it be the A-type clutch being dry after 4+ years of inactivity and drying out? Breaking it to me gently, but what else could it be? Thanks for any advise. Andrew
  11. Hi All, Over the winter I am planning to remove the gearbox in my TR3a to fix a couple of leaks (the seals). Because I only have a single garage, I shall be wheeling the car out onto the driveway to do the removal and then pushing it back in once the box is out. Does anyone out there have any clever dodges for supporting the rear of the engine once the gearbox is out? Thks & Rgds Ian
  12. hi can I can go from 1st to second third and fourth, but coming back down the gears I cant get back into second gear. any help would be appreciated.
  13. Hi folks, Gutted not to be out & about in S Wales tomorrow. Reason? My TR4 has received a gearbox overhaul and new clutch cover, plate, and release bearing & carrier. Just about got everything back when my mate suggests we check all is well. With engine off, all gears are smoothly accessed. Engine running, blah, blah, can't get it into gear! Pump & pump the clutch pedal, and eventually it just about gets drive. Evidence of serious wear on clutch pedal pivot, and bad grooving on the cotter pin connecting the pedal to master cylinder. Tried altering cross shaft arm to top hole but no real difference. As I write this, we decided to order new master & slave cylinders to complete the overhaul, but can anyone give me an opinion on what the trouble might be? Hoping desperately that the transmission doesn't need to come out again. As an extra from a previous post, does the assembly pictured indicate the TT1032 rear engine seal is fitted? I also enc pic of the pedal and cotter pin which has grooved in a mere 3 years or so. Best wishes Willie
  14. I have a TR3a with an overdrive. It is an A Type box from a saloon with a saloon overdrive that has been rebuilt by ORS to convert it to a TR unit. I am planning to change the oil soon and looking at the underside of the box there is a drain plug in the box and a large brass flat disc shaped item at the bottom of the overdrive with rectangular notches around the perimeter. Can I drain the complete gearbox and overdrive unit by just removing the drain plug under the gearbox or do I need to remove the brass thingie as well? Rgds Ian
  15. Evening all. Has anyone ever had the same problem? Gearbox stuck in gear unable to disengage? Any helpful answers would be appreciated. Cheers clem
  16. Anybody need a Gbox with a jtype and a 6cyl? Would all need re-doing
  17. Hi Guys. Do i have drain gearbox oil to replace sump gasket on j type over drive ?. Thanks any help gratfully received.
  18. I've often been asked about drain keys or spanners, many folks don't even know what one looks like . . . . . after all, they're not something you get in the average socket set, and very much a thing of the past. Nevertheless, a damn useful bit of kit when you need one. Here's an example of one on the 'bay . . . . nowt to do with me, I'm just trying to be helpful ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MELCO-DPW-3-SUMP-GEARBOX-AXLE-DRAIN-PLUG-KEY-SPANNER-/142539416782?epid=2038095214&hash=item213002e4ce:g:2UQAAOSwx6pYoGAT Cheers Alec
  19. First time using the Forum today although I confess to being an avid follower and have benefitted from some great advice and tips. I have a Type A Overdrive in my 1970 TR6 which engages straightaway when switched on however it has recently begun to disengage under acceleration? Almost like having a kick-down in an auto transmission vehicle! It quickly re-engages when the throttle is backed off and will cruise happily until an incline is encountered or any additional power is applied. Oil level was fine when last checked prior to being put away for the winter, although that was a little while ago, the car hasn’t been out much (once this year!) Suggestions greatly appreciated…
  20. Hi All Just but the gearbox back in after a rebuild and new clutch.I refitted the clutch slave cylinder and was fitting the rod to the middle hole on the drop arm when I realised it was loose.It wasnt until I crawled out from under the car that I could see that the weld had broken between the arm and the shaft. I realise that I will need to reweld this however how do I make sure the arm is in the right position in relation to the shaft.I was assuming it should be slightly back from vertical, any thoughts? Thanks Cameron
  21. I have no history with my car, but what it does have is a factory recon gearbox, I am looking to replace the 2nd gear , and it appears there are several available. Without taking the gear to a supplier ,can I find out the the gearboxes specification with the factory identification number, original number not readable. Thanks Mark
  22. I think I may have finally got to the bottom of why my overdrive was taking an age to disengage. The restrictor valve was blocked. To get to it, I had to dismantle the interior of the car to get the gearbox tunnel out. Was there an easier way to get to the pesky thing? Have I just done something the hard way? Pictures attached of the valve (With a pin in it) and the stripped down TR4A interior. Best. Paul.
  23. This is next thing on my 'to-do' list.... Anyone on here with any first hand experience by which they could make me a recommendation please? PM me if you prefer. Many thanks.
  24. A couple of items I've purchased in the past couple of weeks, which seem to me like particularly good value . . . . On the 'bay, GL4 gear oil, 5lts for a little over £18 delivered, Millers are reliable folks in my experience https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-EP-80W90-GL4-Mineral-Gear-Gearbox-Rear-Axle-Oil-5-L-5320GG/272070758210?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and from Fluids in Motorsport, a box of 4 x 4lts Silkolube delivered for £64 . . . . an engine oil I've used for many years and found more than satisfactory https://shop.fluidsinmotorsport.co.uk/department/mineral_engine_oils/ usual disclaimers, I'm just a customer ! Cheers Alec
  25. Just a couple of contacts which might prove useful for others. Although these are a couple of years old now I think the companies are still going. I had two LT77 gearboxes rebuilt at Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. The proprietor is clearly an enthusiast and cares about his customers and their needs. He has a mechanic who specialises in the LT77 and seems quite knowledgeable himself. One box was well chewed but the other needed only a light fettling. Both together cost me about £800 if I remember correctly. The internal oil pump mechanisms get replaced with brass components as a matter of course. https://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/ I also found a brake and clutch refurbishing company in Stourport on Severn. This company specialises in classic car brake components and supplies some of the big name suppliers who drop pallet loads of units off and have them refurbed in batches. However they are still happy to do one-offs for enthusiasts who contact them. I took a set of Princess calipers, a set of TR8 calipers and a Sherpa master cylinder for refurbishing. Stainless steel sleeves are used in the calipers, new seals as you'd expect and they come back in a gold finish. www.classiccar-brakes.co.uk/
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