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Found 178 results

  1. Morning folks, Just stripped down a nice straight TR4 chassis which has this damage to the gearbox mounts both sides of the chassis rail...is this a common problem, what causes it? Anyone encountered this before?
  2. AarhusTr6

    Gearbox ID

    Hi I have a number on gearbox which I do not understand. can someone help please? It has V2946 on it and another has CD29091. I found a link to a database of Triumph gearboxes but it seems not to work. Thanks in anticipation, Rich
  3. Hi All. It's been a good while since I have felt the need to consult the esteemed members of this group, and hope your advice will enable me to reach the correct decision. I have a 1971 TR6 which unfortunately is a non overdrive model. I am considering having an A type overdrive & gearbox fitted, and given the estimated cost of around £2,500 (ish) I am wondering if it's a worthwhile expenditure? I specifically want an A type overdrive, as that's what would have been fitted in 1971, rather than the apparently more 'robust' J type. I suppose my question is with regards to the residual value once an overdrive is fitted - is an overdrive model more valuable than a non overdrive model. Not necessarily overly concerned with recouping all of the cost of installation, but it'd be nice to think the car might increase by 50% of the cost? Thoughts please... Regards Peter
  4. I'm attempting to convert a top-cover from the push-fit plugs holding the detent springs in place(156665), to the screwed type (108166). I have tapped the holes out to 7/16" UNF and have some brass threaded rod to match but I don't have a pattern to hand. Could someone with a collection of gearbox bits let me know how thick/deep the screwed plugs should be? Any advice welcome
  5. The long bolt passing through the gear lever cap (3.5"× 1/4 unf), part BH604281 in the Moss book, is worn along its length, and may be contributing to gear lever rattle/vibration. I think the standard replacement bolt is not especially hard, and will wear fairly quickly. Has anybody else had this issue, and maybe sourced a higher grade bolt? Thanks Mike
  6. So I have finally managed to get the gearbox out after an afternoon of struggling. I had forgotten that you have to remove the half moon shaped sealing plate at the bottom of the bell housing before you can slide the box back. Doh. How anyone can remove an overdrive box without some sort of crane is beyond me, I can only just lift it when I am standing over it, let alone at arms length bent over double in the car. Next step is to deal with the leaks. Rgds Ian
  7. I am getting close to getting the TR6 re-registered and back out there on the road. A few cursory test drives around the block highlighted a few things to sort out, but the most worrying is that I get what feels like clutch slip but only in 2nd gear. Having used the search function, the worst case seems to be that it could be the uni-directional bearing is shot but the overdrive was rebuilt not long before the car went off the road and the diagnosis was all OK in the overdrive and box. Its probably done < 5,000 miles since. Clutch was replaced at the same time and there are no noises or anything that would suggest a problem. I havent had an opportunity to do the basics like check G/B oil levels since its been re-fitted, but out of the car (prior to mating it up to the engine) the level was checked and no noticeable leaks have occurred since. It didnt do this before it went off the road either. Are there any other checks I could do before stripping the box out again to replace the uni-directional bearing? Could it be the A-type clutch being dry after 4+ years of inactivity and drying out? Breaking it to me gently, but what else could it be? Thanks for any advise. Andrew
  8. Hi All, Over the winter I am planning to remove the gearbox in my TR3a to fix a couple of leaks (the seals). Because I only have a single garage, I shall be wheeling the car out onto the driveway to do the removal and then pushing it back in once the box is out. Does anyone out there have any clever dodges for supporting the rear of the engine once the gearbox is out? Thks & Rgds Ian
  9. hi can I can go from 1st to second third and fourth, but coming back down the gears I cant get back into second gear. any help would be appreciated.
  10. Hi folks, Gutted not to be out & about in S Wales tomorrow. Reason? My TR4 has received a gearbox overhaul and new clutch cover, plate, and release bearing & carrier. Just about got everything back when my mate suggests we check all is well. With engine off, all gears are smoothly accessed. Engine running, blah, blah, can't get it into gear! Pump & pump the clutch pedal, and eventually it just about gets drive. Evidence of serious wear on clutch pedal pivot, and bad grooving on the cotter pin connecting the pedal to master cylinder. Tried altering cross shaft arm to top hole but no real difference. As I write this, we decided to order new master & slave cylinders to complete the overhaul, but can anyone give me an opinion on what the trouble might be? Hoping desperately that the transmission doesn't need to come out again. As an extra from a previous post, does the assembly pictured indicate the TT1032 rear engine seal is fitted? I also enc pic of the pedal and cotter pin which has grooved in a mere 3 years or so. Best wishes Willie
  11. I have a TR3a with an overdrive. It is an A Type box from a saloon with a saloon overdrive that has been rebuilt by ORS to convert it to a TR unit. I am planning to change the oil soon and looking at the underside of the box there is a drain plug in the box and a large brass flat disc shaped item at the bottom of the overdrive with rectangular notches around the perimeter. Can I drain the complete gearbox and overdrive unit by just removing the drain plug under the gearbox or do I need to remove the brass thingie as well? Rgds Ian
  12. Evening all. Has anyone ever had the same problem? Gearbox stuck in gear unable to disengage? Any helpful answers would be appreciated. Cheers clem
  13. Anybody need a Gbox with a jtype and a 6cyl? Would all need re-doing
  14. Hi Guys. Do i have drain gearbox oil to replace sump gasket on j type over drive ?. Thanks any help gratfully received.
  15. I've often been asked about drain keys or spanners, many folks don't even know what one looks like . . . . . after all, they're not something you get in the average socket set, and very much a thing of the past. Nevertheless, a damn useful bit of kit when you need one. Here's an example of one on the 'bay . . . . nowt to do with me, I'm just trying to be helpful ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MELCO-DPW-3-SUMP-GEARBOX-AXLE-DRAIN-PLUG-KEY-SPANNER-/142539416782?epid=2038095214&hash=item213002e4ce:g:2UQAAOSwx6pYoGAT Cheers Alec
  16. First time using the Forum today although I confess to being an avid follower and have benefitted from some great advice and tips. I have a Type A Overdrive in my 1970 TR6 which engages straightaway when switched on however it has recently begun to disengage under acceleration? Almost like having a kick-down in an auto transmission vehicle! It quickly re-engages when the throttle is backed off and will cruise happily until an incline is encountered or any additional power is applied. Oil level was fine when last checked prior to being put away for the winter, although that was a little while ago, the car hasn’t been out much (once this year!) Suggestions greatly appreciated…
  17. Hi All Just but the gearbox back in after a rebuild and new clutch.I refitted the clutch slave cylinder and was fitting the rod to the middle hole on the drop arm when I realised it was loose.It wasnt until I crawled out from under the car that I could see that the weld had broken between the arm and the shaft. I realise that I will need to reweld this however how do I make sure the arm is in the right position in relation to the shaft.I was assuming it should be slightly back from vertical, any thoughts? Thanks Cameron
  18. I have no history with my car, but what it does have is a factory recon gearbox, I am looking to replace the 2nd gear , and it appears there are several available. Without taking the gear to a supplier ,can I find out the the gearboxes specification with the factory identification number, original number not readable. Thanks Mark
  19. I think I may have finally got to the bottom of why my overdrive was taking an age to disengage. The restrictor valve was blocked. To get to it, I had to dismantle the interior of the car to get the gearbox tunnel out. Was there an easier way to get to the pesky thing? Have I just done something the hard way? Pictures attached of the valve (With a pin in it) and the stripped down TR4A interior. Best. Paul.
  20. This is next thing on my 'to-do' list.... Anyone on here with any first hand experience by which they could make me a recommendation please? PM me if you prefer. Many thanks.
  21. A couple of items I've purchased in the past couple of weeks, which seem to me like particularly good value . . . . On the 'bay, GL4 gear oil, 5lts for a little over £18 delivered, Millers are reliable folks in my experience https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-EP-80W90-GL4-Mineral-Gear-Gearbox-Rear-Axle-Oil-5-L-5320GG/272070758210?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and from Fluids in Motorsport, a box of 4 x 4lts Silkolube delivered for £64 . . . . an engine oil I've used for many years and found more than satisfactory https://shop.fluidsinmotorsport.co.uk/department/mineral_engine_oils/ usual disclaimers, I'm just a customer ! Cheers Alec
  22. Just a couple of contacts which might prove useful for others. Although these are a couple of years old now I think the companies are still going. I had two LT77 gearboxes rebuilt at Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. The proprietor is clearly an enthusiast and cares about his customers and their needs. He has a mechanic who specialises in the LT77 and seems quite knowledgeable himself. One box was well chewed but the other needed only a light fettling. Both together cost me about £800 if I remember correctly. The internal oil pump mechanisms get replaced with brass components as a matter of course. https://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/ I also found a brake and clutch refurbishing company in Stourport on Severn. This company specialises in classic car brake components and supplies some of the big name suppliers who drop pallet loads of units off and have them refurbed in batches. However they are still happy to do one-offs for enthusiasts who contact them. I took a set of Princess calipers, a set of TR8 calipers and a Sherpa master cylinder for refurbishing. Stainless steel sleeves are used in the calipers, new seals as you'd expect and they come back in a gold finish. www.classiccar-brakes.co.uk/
  23. Hello (again) All I have a choice between putting in a J-Type or A-Type overdrive in my restoration project. I was just wondering what peoples thoughts on are this are. I know the A-Type is the correct OD, but is the J-Type a better unit to have? I will keep both units with the car so the next owner (if I ever do sell it!) can change it if they so wish. I have heard that the J-type is the better one to have in your car and use; the A-type can be slower to engage/disengage as well as being more tempremental. Of course, the J-type will give a higher drop in RPM, but I'm guessing going from 22% to 28% doesn't make too big a difference. Any help would be greatly appriciated as I feel I'm in the middle quite a dilemmia. Thanks in advance!
  24. Anybody used auto gear shop on eBay, they have a 100% feed back trading since 2005 supplying classic and modern gearbox parts ,oil seals and gaskets. They have quite an extensive triumph range of products Mark
  25. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off before passing away almost four years ago. This car was to be a project we shared but for various reasons was never really to be. I reached a point at the beginning of this year where I accepted an offer for the car. A week before it was due to be sold my mother-in-law passed away, bringing back the feelings of losing my dad and the project we never completed. It made me realise how much I'd regret selling the car without finding out how much it'd cost to get back on the road and usable. The key word here is usable, not concourse. Off I went to get some estimates to see if it was doable by firing off a few emails with some detailed photos and a list of the work I wanted doing. I had an immediate response from one restorer (and supplier of parts) of £50k - this same company had a full nuts-and-bolts restoration on their website for £35k, so I could've sold mine, bought this and still be £15k to the good. The next company viewed the car in-person and proposed £12-15k for the reassemble and £8k for prep and respray. A third viewed and gave an estimate of almost £12k for prep and respray and no real estimate for reassembly but an hourly rate for labour and a 6 months timescale. I'd pretty much given up at this point and was almost on the verge of going back to selling it. I've got a company coming on Monday and another local company who aren't "TR experts" but have both brought TRs back to road use who've quoted between £3 and £3.5k for prep and respray - to a daily use standard - and have indicated they can complete the reassembly within my budget, based on their past experience. It looks like I'm heading towards getting the car back on the road and actually driving it. If you're still reading at this point, the main reason for my post is to find out if £3 - £3.5k seems good for prep and respray and what your estimates would be to reassemble everything after a respray, including fitting the gearbox and engine and rebuilding the front suspension and steering. Also, I've got a shopping list of parts that I'll need and wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction for them or if you have any of them you no longer need. I'm in North Staffordshire so would be willing to travel around a 25-30 mile radius. It's an early (first 500) 1972 CR 125bhp car. Cooling System Water Pump and Pulley Air Duct and fitting kit Electrical Battery box linertray, Battery hold down kit Battery cable kit Lumenition Magnatronic Ignition System Full Wiring loom assembly Engine Engine mountings Fuel System PI fuel pump kit, 'Bosch' type cylindrical pump Fuel pipes Braking System Brake pipes Interior Boot liner kit, PI model and fitting kit Boot Mat, carpet, nylon, PI models, black and fitting kit Gearbox tunnel, fitting kit and seal Trim kit, coarse grain vinyl, black and fitting kit Dashboard, matt finish walnut (preferably) veneer, RHD Seat belt kit MX5 heated black leather seats (wife has insisted on heated!!)and seat runners/adapters Hood Hood frame rivet and washer, plain Seal and channel kit Hood webbing kit Black vinyl roof cover Miscellaneous Front spoiler Matching lock set (doors, boot and cubby) with key Ignition cylinder and key If anyone fancies a trade I've got two sets of driver and passenger seats from a 1969 TR6 although both sets have holes to the driver side outer edge and are likely to need refurbing. I've also got an MG prefix Triumph 2500cc engine ready for refurbing although still turns by hand. Thanks, Steve
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