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Found 189 results

  1. Has anyone attempted to "dismantle" an original gear lever with the rubber "metalastic " bush within the main body of the assembly? I have a lever which I intended to repair the machined groove, in the spherical part of the lever with some weld and then re machine. The problem was how to prevent damage to the rubber vibration damper inside the assembly.On looking at the lever, more closely, it is quite an interesting item. The main lever arm is joined , (how I have not yet sussed) to the inner part of a metalastic bush. the outer of this bush is then pressed into the main body of the assembly which has been bored to take it. The additional complication / cost of this, rather than the solid one piece replacements currently available must have been to reduce the vibration ? noise transmission through the lever. Paul
  2. Hi all, I have a question about my gearbox from my TR4 (1962). Does anyone know why my gearbox is harder to switch in hot weather? It's harder to get into gear. Sometimes from three to four a little crack. Not Always. Just that it's not completely synced. In the spring I never had this before. And only if he's been riding hot. The next day everything is back to normal
  3. Hi Guy’s I really can’t fathom this one out. And I’ve have had a classic gearbox specialist have a look and no joy. My reverse lights are on all of the time. So I’ve gone back to basics. Not the switch(es), tried 3. Then bench checked them, they all work, spot on. Then checked the wiring is ok. Rev lights work fine when switch connected up but out of GBox and operated by hand. So thought I would try the switch screwed in varying amounts. With the GBox in reverse I’ve screwed the switch in until it just turns the lights on then took it out of reverse. Lights stay on. Then started with it in neutral and screwed the switch in until the lights just come on and then back ¼ of a turn so the light go off. Then put it in reverse and …nothing no lights. So if the switches ae fine and the electrics are fine it must be the GBox not operating the switch correctly. And if I look down the switch hole when in and out of reverse the “high” part which tell the switch to turn on the reverse light is always there. Now the GBox guys says ther is no adjustment in this. But something must be wrong has anyone got any ideas? My radical approach is to get the reverse selector fork, make sure I know which bit is in the way of the switch operating correctly when out of reverse and errr attack it with an Angle Grinder. If I take just the right amount away I think (hope) I can get the light working. But before I take that quite radical action of angle grinding bits inside the gearbox and one got any suggestions what might be wrong cuz it can’t always have been like this surely. Cheers Keith
  4. Hi I am looking to replace my (soggy,saggy and perforated) original Gearbox tunnel, there seem to be a number of different materials (plastic or fibreglass) and suppliers. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks Rich
  5. Hi Folks, for those wanting to know where the reversing light switch is here is a pic. Roger
  6. My local group leader has had a major gearbox failure, it's with a repairer and will cost a good amount to repair due to the amount of parts damaged/required. As he's already got to spend a substantial amount he's wondering if it's worth spending a bit more to do the Mazda 5 speed conversion, I'm hoping to get some experience from members here that I can pass on to him and help him decide which way to go: repair/conversion. Many thanks Gareth
  7. Well - with your help, the gearbox is out and is almost completely stripped down. Already I am somewhat more philosophical about the demise of 1st gear, as it has prompted me to delve into a gearbox for the first time and actually start to learn how the bloody things work... which has led to a few questions... 1. I can't figure out the function of the 'extra' little ball bearing and associated plunger in the 2nd gear synchro hub... it is described in the exploded diagram as being an interlock... my question is, interlocking what, exactly? I think that the 3 springs and ball bearings in the same hub are to hold the outer synchro collar thingo in 'neutral position', but I can't figure out what the interlock ball bearing etc is for. 2. Another query relates to the washer that sits between 1st gear and the big bearing at the rear of the box. The washer I removed is just a plain round washer... not the triangular shaped bearing shown in the exploded diagram (part # 060569). Photo below. 3. Lastly - to replace the clutch fork securing bolt (which snapped off)... am I just as well re-tapping the hole in the fork to accept a metric hi-tensile ss bolt and use that? Only issue I suppose would be drilling a hole for the lock wire... the old threads in the fork seem to have survived my drilling out of the original bolt. TIA!
  8. Hi guys Following on from recent chat about gearbox removal... once the box is removed, is it ok to just support the engine using a block of wood between the engine and fire wall (see photo)? I would like to be able to move the car about the garage once the box is removed. I hope that the support under the engine is only really required while there is a chance of the gearbox applying additional load onto the engine (which can happen I presume despite best efforts to support box and engine separately). TIA!
  9. Hello experts! My speedo stopped working last season... The speedo end of the cable was spinning alright but could be stopped by pinching with fingers and so I was looking towards the angle drive (thanks to archive forum post from RogerH). Anyway, I removed the one-piece tunnel today and discovered that the gearbox-facing bayonet fitting on the angle drive was 2 threads/turns loose. All tightened up now and reckon that will be it - any thoughts in advance of my 2 month wait for dry and salt-free roads?? Hopefully I will avoid the need to buy a new smiths angle drive. Also going to take the opportunity to cut in a number of access panels in that pesky plastic tunnel. My plan is to use the cut out piece of plastic and speed tape to form the access panel as per the attached sketch (black = plastic and red = speed tape with the outer of the tunnel on top side of the sketch). That's my initial plan using stuff that's to hand in the garage, but grateful for the benefit of anyone else's experience. Thanks David
  10. EDIT... I originally thought it was a half shaft failure... turns out it is gearbox related. Grinding in 1st gear and reverse with very little drive. 2nd/ 3rd / 4th all ok with or without o/d. Looking for diagnosis while I start the process of removing the box and engine... at least this will give me a chance to fix that oil leak and a few other things. Original post: What a shame - just after thinking how well the car was driving and looking (and also consciously thinking how risky it was to be having such thoughts), a half shaft decided enough was enough... at least I hope it was the half shaft! I think I was partly to blame... or fully to blame... I forgot the handbrake was on and then when I took off from the lights, the car pulled away for a split second and then something went pop! I'm trying to re-assure myself that the half shaft should be able to take that sort of load, and so was probably going to break eventually anyway... not sure if that is true or not. Anyway - time to get hands dirty and confirm what's what. Two photos attached are the start of the day, full of promise, and the situation about 1hr later!
  11. Birdseye

    Gearbox Noise

    The attached sound file is a recording of the noise emanating from my gearbox. 1973 TR6 with J type O/D. I have owned the car since 1979. Taken off the road in 1982. 68K miles. The clutch and plate are 700 miles old. The thrust bearing squeals slightly and will probably need changing but I don’t suspect that it’s the thrust bearing which is causing this particular noise; however, I’m open to your opinion. The noise is progressively getting worse, hardly noticeable 400 miles ago. The noise occurs in every gear but only occurs when the gearbox is under load and stops when the throttle is eased back and the load released. It also occurs with or without the O/D engaged. I don’t think it’s the gearstick fizzing (I had a Triumph Herald which did that) There’s plenty of the correct grade oil in the box. New UJ’s on the prop shaft (700 miles) I suppose it could be coming from the O/D rather than the gearbox, but again open to ideas. Anyone heard this noise or any ideas before I remove the box and pull it apart. Many Thanks Ross TR6 Gearbox Noise.m4a
  12. Hi All Well this started a number of months ago when my overdrive started dropping out randomly when in 4th OD. I was sure it was an electrical issue as it could work fine for hours of driving. It appeared to be worse when hot and tended to happen when the revs dropped while still in fourth. I checked all the electric and couldn’t fine a problem and as we were about to head off to Spain and France with the car I decided to leave it alone. We covered 2380 miles, 3 Tr6s with no problems, however my overdrive continued misbehaving, a little worse in the hot weather. However we arrived back in Portsmouth and drove straight home, 505 miles and it performed perfectly. I have a number of jobs to do on the car this winter; including recovering the central dash support, so I decided to remove the gearbox cover to try and sort out this problem. I checked the electrics and everything works correctly, so I fitted my pressure gauge and disconnected the propshaft. At tick over in neutral the pressure is 100psi In 4th gear at 2500 to 3000rpm the pressure is 450psi engage Overdrive it drops momentarily to 200psi then back to 450psi disengage OD and the pressure doesn’t move. So far so good. However once I reduce the revs the pressure immediately drops to 100psi and if I then turn off the engine it drops to zero within a minute. So my question is, am I correct in thinking the pressure should be maintained, and if so what could be causing it to drop. Thanks Cameron
  13. Hi all, This might seem a strange set of questions but I'm trying to understand how to operate overdrive as I've never driven with this before, and I'm hoping to have my car back soon- it really has been the slowest and most stalled of rebuilds ever known!! I know o/d can be used in 3rd and 4th on mine. 1. When should I operate o/d for the first time on a journey - do I have to be at a certain speed and in 4th at first selection? 2. Do I need to deselect o/d before shifting down from 4th to 3rd? 3. Do I need to deselect o/d before shitfting up from 3rd to 4th? 4. When I turn the engine off is o/d cancelled if I haven't already done it? ie will it still be in o/d when I next turn the car on? 5. Is there an easy way to know if o/d is selected whilst driving (other than the revs being lower)? Thanks, Steve
  14. Morning folks, Just stripped down a nice straight TR4 chassis which has this damage to the gearbox mounts both sides of the chassis rail...is this a common problem, what causes it? Anyone encountered this before?
  15. AarhusTr6

    Gearbox ID

    Hi I have a number on gearbox which I do not understand. can someone help please? It has V2946 on it and another has CD29091. I found a link to a database of Triumph gearboxes but it seems not to work. Thanks in anticipation, Rich
  16. Hi All. It's been a good while since I have felt the need to consult the esteemed members of this group, and hope your advice will enable me to reach the correct decision. I have a 1971 TR6 which unfortunately is a non overdrive model. I am considering having an A type overdrive & gearbox fitted, and given the estimated cost of around £2,500 (ish) I am wondering if it's a worthwhile expenditure? I specifically want an A type overdrive, as that's what would have been fitted in 1971, rather than the apparently more 'robust' J type. I suppose my question is with regards to the residual value once an overdrive is fitted - is an overdrive model more valuable than a non overdrive model. Not necessarily overly concerned with recouping all of the cost of installation, but it'd be nice to think the car might increase by 50% of the cost? Thoughts please... Regards Peter
  17. I'm attempting to convert a top-cover from the push-fit plugs holding the detent springs in place(156665), to the screwed type (108166). I have tapped the holes out to 7/16" UNF and have some brass threaded rod to match but I don't have a pattern to hand. Could someone with a collection of gearbox bits let me know how thick/deep the screwed plugs should be? Any advice welcome
  18. The long bolt passing through the gear lever cap (3.5"× 1/4 unf), part BH604281 in the Moss book, is worn along its length, and may be contributing to gear lever rattle/vibration. I think the standard replacement bolt is not especially hard, and will wear fairly quickly. Has anybody else had this issue, and maybe sourced a higher grade bolt? Thanks Mike
  19. So I have finally managed to get the gearbox out after an afternoon of struggling. I had forgotten that you have to remove the half moon shaped sealing plate at the bottom of the bell housing before you can slide the box back. Doh. How anyone can remove an overdrive box without some sort of crane is beyond me, I can only just lift it when I am standing over it, let alone at arms length bent over double in the car. Next step is to deal with the leaks. Rgds Ian
  20. I am getting close to getting the TR6 re-registered and back out there on the road. A few cursory test drives around the block highlighted a few things to sort out, but the most worrying is that I get what feels like clutch slip but only in 2nd gear. Having used the search function, the worst case seems to be that it could be the uni-directional bearing is shot but the overdrive was rebuilt not long before the car went off the road and the diagnosis was all OK in the overdrive and box. Its probably done < 5,000 miles since. Clutch was replaced at the same time and there are no noises or anything that would suggest a problem. I havent had an opportunity to do the basics like check G/B oil levels since its been re-fitted, but out of the car (prior to mating it up to the engine) the level was checked and no noticeable leaks have occurred since. It didnt do this before it went off the road either. Are there any other checks I could do before stripping the box out again to replace the uni-directional bearing? Could it be the A-type clutch being dry after 4+ years of inactivity and drying out? Breaking it to me gently, but what else could it be? Thanks for any advise. Andrew
  21. Hi All, Over the winter I am planning to remove the gearbox in my TR3a to fix a couple of leaks (the seals). Because I only have a single garage, I shall be wheeling the car out onto the driveway to do the removal and then pushing it back in once the box is out. Does anyone out there have any clever dodges for supporting the rear of the engine once the gearbox is out? Thks & Rgds Ian
  22. hi can I can go from 1st to second third and fourth, but coming back down the gears I cant get back into second gear. any help would be appreciated.
  23. Hi folks, Gutted not to be out & about in S Wales tomorrow. Reason? My TR4 has received a gearbox overhaul and new clutch cover, plate, and release bearing & carrier. Just about got everything back when my mate suggests we check all is well. With engine off, all gears are smoothly accessed. Engine running, blah, blah, can't get it into gear! Pump & pump the clutch pedal, and eventually it just about gets drive. Evidence of serious wear on clutch pedal pivot, and bad grooving on the cotter pin connecting the pedal to master cylinder. Tried altering cross shaft arm to top hole but no real difference. As I write this, we decided to order new master & slave cylinders to complete the overhaul, but can anyone give me an opinion on what the trouble might be? Hoping desperately that the transmission doesn't need to come out again. As an extra from a previous post, does the assembly pictured indicate the TT1032 rear engine seal is fitted? I also enc pic of the pedal and cotter pin which has grooved in a mere 3 years or so. Best wishes Willie
  24. I have a TR3a with an overdrive. It is an A Type box from a saloon with a saloon overdrive that has been rebuilt by ORS to convert it to a TR unit. I am planning to change the oil soon and looking at the underside of the box there is a drain plug in the box and a large brass flat disc shaped item at the bottom of the overdrive with rectangular notches around the perimeter. Can I drain the complete gearbox and overdrive unit by just removing the drain plug under the gearbox or do I need to remove the brass thingie as well? Rgds Ian
  25. Evening all. Has anyone ever had the same problem? Gearbox stuck in gear unable to disengage? Any helpful answers would be appreciated. Cheers clem
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